*** The Official 2019 MSI GS65 Stealth with RTX GPUs Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Some people are sticklers for size, weight, etc. (I.e. majority of the garbage reviewers). These new laptops are fine as they are. Performance comes at a cost.

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I hear ya i was gonna orde rbut its sold out...so guess im screwed

 

I see it as available after refreshing. Go for it!

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nah it s crazy cause it says old out on mine

 

Im not talking about the GS66 version of the SFS, its MAX-Q, the GE66 that I linked with bestbuy is the full MAX-P version of the 2070 super. It will be faster then the 2080 Super MAX-Q.

 

Its a best buy version only vendor that carries it is HIDEVOLUTION other than BB.....go figure.....but yeah that 2070S MP should be equal or faster than a 2080S MQ...and yeah theGE66 is the way to go in MSI for performance GS i just nicer all around.

 

Hello, I am sure this has been asked before about the orange light always being on for the GS65 9SF but I have only had the laptop for a week now and MSI support is very unhelpful. The dGPU fans are always running and it cuts my battery life down to about 3.5 hours on a full charge, It is no where near the 8-9 hours people talk about.

I have tried setting my Nvidia CP to auto and integrated and also have been watch the dGPU usage icon and nothing is using it. My old GP63 would run silently until it was under load, this one seems like its always under load even when I am just using chrome.

I also get random wifi cuts, when streaming a video on youtube itll be fine then the wifi connection will go to one bar for a min then back up to full bars. My router is a Linksys EA9500, worked fine with my old GP63.

Anyone have any suggestions? It is the 2070 variant of the GS65

 

MSI Afterburner and GPU-Z or any other software the monitors GPU may cause the dGPU to stay active.

NVIDIA Control Panel has an option to show you dGPU usage on your bottom right icons. Go to your NVIDIA control panel and I think it's the 2nd to last tab at the top and select the option to enable the dGPU monitor (again I forget exact name).

Steam, and silent options show up for me as keeping dGPU running. I right clicked my desktop and navigated to advance graphic setting (I forget exact name) and selected high-performance and battery-saving on a per app basis via these settings.

I am away from my computer at the moment or I would give you exact step by step instructions.



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pretty much on point start here and come back

 

If you have Discord on, disable hardware acceleration. This one wont show up on the dgpu log.

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Hey thanks, I seemed to have been a little stupid here, I reverted back to an older version of the EC which has seemed to solve my orange light, and I also found out my fans were on 50% on the lowest setting, which I guess is default, and makes it so even if the CPU/GPU are in the 30-40 range for temp. the fans are always running.

What should by my fan curve be for regular use? Like for me right now its, 0%, 50, 60, 70, 90. is that fine or is the gap between the first and second too large?

 

The 115w 2070 super Max-p should be within 5% of 80w 2080 super Max-q performance. The 90w 2080 super Max-q will be faster than the 2070 super Max-p.

 

ill take that and save a bit of cash

 

So I’m out of ideas, for the life of me when I roasts I have cores 2,4,6 running super hot on my GS65 9SE with the 9th gen CPU.

does anyone know what could cause the contact of the heat sink to be insufficient? This is using kryonaut paste.

 

I am having similar issues right now. Gonna try liquid metal solution

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If its brand new you can RMA it, but you'd probably have to send your laptop away for a few weeks.

I have heard of people sanding down their heatsinks to flatten them out so they contact better but its risky, liquid metal is also risky because i believe it voids your warranty.

 

It’s not brand new unfortunately. Maybe I get get some LM to use to try and cure the issue.

 

Lapping the heatsink helps or using really thick paste in my case ICD did the best job

 

Mines not brand new either. Got it used. Might do LM before going ICD. Right now I only have MX4 due to my A51m as my main machine and the GS65 as my work, school, etc.

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Does the thermal paste on the VRMs work better than thermal pads?

 

Yes but they will be harder to clean.

 

What paste did you use?

 

I dont use paste on the vrms, im using 0.5mm and 1mm thermal pads on mine. But if i didn't have pads ill use kryonaut / mastergel maker nano

 

Hey GS65 Fam!

With the GS66 now out (I have a review unit), I decided to re-tweak my GS65.

First, I now have 4 profiles in Throttlestop.

Max Performance = Stock clock values with undervolt
Optimal - 3.5GHz all-core speed with undervolt
Silent - 3GHz all-core speed with undervolt
Battery - Disabled turbo with undervolt

*The other core ratios keep the same scaling between the profiles. Example: Optimal is 3.5 > 3.6 > 3.7 for 6/5, 4/3, 2/1 core.
Optimal VERY CLOSELY MATCHES 3.9Ghz clock speeds in gaming performance.

I also reflashed my 2080MQ with the 90w bios and made 5 profiles in MSI Afterburner.

1. P1 - 1095 core clock at 606mV, Stock memory (65w)
2. P2 - 1230 core clock at 618mV, Stock Memory (75w)
3. P3 - 1365 core clock at 668mV, Stock memory (85w)
4. P4 - 1500 core clock 712mV, Stock Memory (95w)
5. P5 - +125 core clock, +200 Memory (100w peak)

Finally, my fan speeds in Silent Option have changed.

CPU > 0 > 45 > 65 > 70 > 110 > 120
GPU > 0 > 60 > 65 > 70 > 80 > 120

Profile Usage:

1. Max Performance with P5 for the highest possible performance. I use this with Cooler Boost turned on.
2. Optimal with P2 - P4. This uses my custom fan curve. Optimal is my go-to mode. I change the AB profile depending on the game. I use P2 as my daily, switching to P4 when I need more FPS (like Ray Tracing). P3 isn't really used, but I have it there anyway. Fan noise is acceptable (~48-50dB depending on the AB profile). The performance hit is up to 10% depending on if the game is CPU intensive.
3. Silent with P1. This uses my custom fan curve. Noise levels never exceed 44dB and has a fairly quiet wooooooooosh sound. my wife appreciates it. The performance hit is ~20% though, but its worth it when I need to be in a quieter place.

I used to hate using the 90W BIOS but with MSI AB undervolting, I can keep the same temps as when I used the 80w BIOS.

To give you an idea on performance vs the GS66 with a 2080 Super MQ.

Shadow of the Tomb Raider
2080 Super MQ - Highest Settings - 102FPS stock, 105FPS overclocked
2080 MQ w/90 Bios (Max Performance) - 101FPS

This is a fully optimized GS66 vs my fully optimized GS65.

So if you're thinking of upgrading (I was), hold off. Wait til Ampere and Big Navi laptops come out next year.

Anyway, hope this gives you some ideas to further improve your GS65s! Good Luck!

 

How do u undervolt in MSI AB? DO u just lock it on the specifi voltage u want? Ive tried a few things trying to get the max out of my 2060 w/ 90w bios

 

Press CTRL F to unlock voltage control.


https://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=2820280&p=1


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Aslo i think the biggest reason to upgrade for somepeople will be coming from say a 1660ti or 2060 and wil likely be for the improved build qualiy and battery more than anything also maybe the screen but in my case the 240hz isnt that bad

 

It depends on what you’re coming from and going too.
IMO, a GTX 10 series and a 7/8th gen processor is worthy of the jump. But those with an RTX GPU should hold back until next year.
For me, jumping from my GS65 to the GS66 is not worth it. Only difference is a fast screen, better build, and a 8 core processor which is SEVERELY HAMPERED by the thermal/current limitations of the chassis.


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YEah i know how to get to the curve im asking if u hit CTRL+L?

 

I didn’t. I did each point manually along with the CFG file. There are times when I hit apply and it doesn’t fully accept my voltage curve but setting it manually point by point works.

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Howd u edit the config file?

 

Go into the Afterburner install folder and open the CFG file with notepad.
The only edit I did to change the minimum voltage , frequency to 500 and 2050


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FYI, using CTRL+L will make the dGPU active if you check on “Start overclock when windows starts” and leave afterburner.
So if you want the overclock to load on windows startup, you’ll have to set the curve manually if you want Optimus to work.


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Did you apply Falkentyne bios tweaks such as the load line to 1 and changing the imon slope? If so what kind of undervolt settings you have?

With those settings my CPU will hardly undervolt if any.

 

I did apply those tweaks.

3.1GHz -79.1mV
3.5GHz -69.5mV
3.9GHz -36.1mV
Battery -125mV


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So I have applied liquid metal and lapped the heat sink and this is what I’m getting....and ideas what to try next?

multiple applications and attempts yield same results.

 

Something is way way off with ur heatsink cause im on ICD and mine isnt that uneven not that bad.......u sure u applied it correctly?

 

Also what wher eu doing at that time when u got those temps?

 

This is uneven heatsink, you may need to RMA for new heatsink. For now just drop your multiplier. 36x runs great for me and minimal loss in FPS at least on Warframe

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But thats the worst uneven one....if ur under warrnaty then rma for a new heatsink they should be able to send one to ya. if not order one of ebay i have an extra one i got off ebay for 70 bucks in case i wante dto lap mine some day but after seeing urs i think mine is greta now...

 

Yes, even amount all over the dies and heatsink...even pressure applied

 

I used throttle stop TS bench

 

what setting on the Benchmark? I just ran it on mine and i dont reach 95 like urs mine is uneven also but temps are more in check and i havent lapped just repasted

 

1024

 

So after sanding the heatsink more and changing the thermal pads on the VRMs closest to the CPU. I have managed to limited full load temps to be equal on all cores at 75-80c and my you never higher than 72c

 

Very nice, I can’t get any more UV out of my CPU using the bios settings

 

What thickness u use 1.0mm or 0.5?

 

I had 1.0mm and swapped to 0.5mm, I also made sure to cut it just enough to cover and fit in the heatsink with out any overlap to make sure heatsink would seat all the way. So far no issues with temps under full load or playing games.

 

I sanded mine but the difference is still about 7-8degrees at 3.6ghz. Might have to further tinker with it or swap heatsink.

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Try ordering pressure paper, they send free samples and it's plenty for the task. I think it ships from new Jersey as well.

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