*** The Official GE76 RAIDER Owners and Discussion Lounge ***

The PCE 4.0 SSD runs hot, if you are having issues I would replace sooner rather than later.

 

Mine are both 3.0 and temps look good.

 

You must have the 10 gen, I have the Tiger Lake with the new 4.0s I am getting 5 GB read speeds!

 

No the laptop is capable of using gen 4 it's just the drives are not gen 4.

 

Mine had a bad image from MSI. If it went away after installing your own image that may have been it.

Also iirc only the first drive bay should be PCIE4.0 because on the tiger lake models they put the other 4x lane to TB4.

 

I did have the dreaded "no audio" once since fresh install on a different SSD. I saw it and didn't want to crash like I did last time so I just restarted. At that point I did still have a single item in device manager without a driver, it was "detection verification" which after some research appears to have been one of the many INF you have to install manually (instructions were on MSI driver downloads area). It seems to be ok now.

I am hoping that the original issue was a bad image at this point. The system has handled undervolt and GPU overclock quite well but as always there are so many moving parts it's sometimes hard to troubleshoot and find the exact issue.

Both of my 2TB SSD are PCIE 3.0. I really don't understand the original SSD issue where it was at 100% for many minutes each boot as I've never seen that before and even with all startup programs disabled the issue persisted. I haven't seen that again yet and the old boot drive is now a games drive, no issues other than that one "no audio" issue that I hope never comes back. Copying files between the 2 SSD is super fast and have never seen the 2MB/s like I did originally with the cheapo SSD as the boot drive.

 

I haven't done a repaste on any laptops in a while but I noticed my cinebench scores were 11k instead of 14k that I was expecting so I decided to try with whatever paste I had on hand.

The stock CPU job looks like all the paste had been squeezed out. I'll have to monitor it and see if it happens to my paste job too. I also noted that it looks like there wasn't good contact on a few of the chips on the GPU side but the core looks like it had decent coverage.

Temps got way better and it's boosting far further. It can actually overclock a bit now too, I'm sure eventually it throttles but in short tests it seems to stay at 4.8 or 4.9 on all core. My Timespy score is 2nd place in the US with the 11980HK & 3080, might have to play a bit and get that #1 spot (+39 pts ). Hits 106w+ too which is crazy for a mobile CPU.

Although I already had it set so fans would not run when I'm not doing much with it, I'm sure this didn't hurt to keep temps down.

 

I repasted yesterday with Kryonaut and can't recommend it enough. In Prime 95 it used to be 96 and the the core would be throttling down to 3100mhz, now during prime 95 avx512 its at 94c but at 3600mhz on all cores and holds steady . During normal web browsing, email etc., GPU and CPU are in high 40s and under most games GPU is around 60-65 and CPU similar unless if its over 80% utilization in which its around 75-78. The unit is so much faster. With the -80 under volt, I don't need noise canceling headphones for many games (Non Cyberpunk 2077 level). I used to have a 150/1000 overclock on the GPU and suddenly all the games started crashing, I ended up realizing it was because of the lower temps the GPU was boosting higher so the 150 was making it hit the GPU limit. I had to lower GPU OC from 150 to 125 and still got the same scores. Again I can't stress enough what a difference Kryonaut makes! Just do it!

 

Is that the high end paste? Not liquid metal?

I'm gonna have to go in there sooner or later to slap more storage in so I'm thinking of doing a repaste/pad.

 

Hi guys, I'm new here. I ordered my GE76 11UH-245 (11800H & 3080). I've never owned an MSI and I'm not at the same tech level as all of you guys but I'm hoping to learn as I go. I'm pretty excited and I've never spent quite that much on a laptop, though my current rig was $2650 when I got it so it's not too far off. @Porter is that picture of the paste all the places paste is supposed to go? Holy crap 6 years ago when I was on here it was just paste on CPU/GPU and some thermal pads. I've never pasted before but after seeing that picture I got kinda nervous. I'm sure there's some walkthrough's online for repasting, just not sure if they are specific to this new model. How many grams of paste do I need? Any idea the thickness of thermal pads & location placement if I want to use those too? I think I read in a few places the PCH can get hot and it has no type of coverage so I was wondering if a thermal pad on that would help or possibly one of those little heatsink mods Ive seen? Also, what is the best way to hook up 2 monitors, which is what I currently have. My current laptop had 2 displayports and 1 HDMI so I just have them hooked up to the display port, but this new laptop doesn't have 2 of anything so what do I need to hook up the monitors? The monitors are HDMI. Can the 1 thunderbolt port run 2 displays and if so do I need some sort of docking station thing? I'm sorry for all the questions, I've been out of the laptop scene for the last 5/6 years. Once I get it I'll be happy to run any tests or anything you guys want.

 

I'm not sure how much needed for just the dies but it was a "normal" amount. I had a large amount on hand from a long time ago and I just used a couple very tiny beebee sized drops total. I bet the power delivery chips and memory should really be redone with thermal pads but I have no idea the thickness, maybe it's here in this thread somewhere. I did a big "no-no" and just slapped it back together with that white junk since I didn't have another solution ready. Seems to have worked great as the performance and benchmark appear to be even better than those who have done liquid metal.

Not sure on that bare die, maybe a small heatsink would help assuming there is enough air flow to pass by it in there. I've never looked at the temps of it so not sure where it runs at.

I think the thunderbolt 4 connector on the back can do multiple displays at once, otherwise there is a mini-DP port and an HDMI back there as well. I think a dock would work, not sure if they make a simple cable that goes from USB-C to dual DP or not.

Mine came with MSI center which I hear is replacing Dragon Center? However I could not find the controls that I really wanted in there so I put Dragon Center on and it helps control the fans much better. From max fans, to no fans and everywhere in between.

Lastly, if you are comfortable going into the advanced BIOS and changing a setting that allows you to undervolt using throttle stop it also helps a bit more even. Then make darn sure you don't upgrade the BIOS without knowing if it prevents undervolting as many laptops have been doing the last couple years.

 

Ok awesome, I've already read through this entire thread lol so I'll keep looking for info on temp pad thickness and placement. That Grizzly Kryonaut paste is pretty darn cheap anyhow so I'll just get the bigger sized one and the Fujipoly Extreme Thermal pads aren't that expensive either. I just figured if I'm spending this amount of money I'd like to get as much performance and longevity as I can and I know high temperatures over a long time can shorten its life.

 

Hello,

I recently bought the GE76 Raider 11UG, 11800/3070. This thing runs hot, I get thermal throttling just from booting it up.

I have the fans set to coolerboost and I am still in the 95-99c range (occaisonally crossing 100) in some cores, with core temps varying up to 25 degrees in some cases. GPU is also hitting 100 in some cases aswell, but only under stress testing.

Time Spy is giving me 10,578 Graphics score and 9,916 CPU, significantly lower than others in this thread.

Could the issue be a bad factory paste job?

I know the GE76 is quite thin in comparison, but my gt73vr could barely hit 90 under full load, so seeing these numbers in its replacement is a bit scary to me.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, I love these threads, always such great info.

 

My opinion is yes it may just be a bad paste job. While mine was pretty disappointing from the factory I thought maybe over the last few years they had gotten better at it and mine was an outlier. I'm guessing not.

Mine is so much better after a repaste that it's like a whole new machine. Much less to no throttling, runs cooler, runs faster, and I can run with (mostly) no fans now, only occasionally running if I do a few things to kick up the cpu usage. If you do a repaste, I'd go with the best non-conductive paste you can get and plan it ahead of time what you want to do with all the chips on the sides of the GPU/CPU dies.

I'm not afraid to use max fans when gaming but I have found I don't need to in many games, I just leave it on balanced and it works great.

 

Agree with @Porter here, mine just arrived yesterday and I haven't fired it up yet, but I actually asked one of the sales reps if factory paste jobs had improved. He laughed and said "Why do you think most resellers offer thermal paste/pad upgrades? It's not just for the extra money, as it usually reduces the number of calls we get from customers right after getting their machines. Most of those calls are temp related and the culprit is factory paste and it's poor application."

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Are they pads or paste on the chips?

If pads anyone know what thickness?

 

It's paste on all of it just like @Porter photos. I finally got mine out of the box and first think I did was take off the back, just to inspect the internals for damage. The paste job looks great but geeze, after a few hours of setting it up, multiple Chrome tabs open, installing, uninstalling, and yep, HWiNFO showed core package at 98c several times already and some ugly temp spreads between cores lol. Point is, either the stock paste is crap, or old, or applied poorly but either way I can see I'm gonna be learning how to apply my new Kryonaut Extreme in the next few days. I'm not disappointed or anything, I read enough reviews to know that cramming an i-11800h and rtx 3080 in a slim chassis, plus tri-pod heatsinks that may not make the best contact will result in higher temps without some modification. Before that I would like to run some benchmarks then update bios/vbios, clean install Win10 and perform my debloating routine, undervolt, overclock, mess with throttlestop and THEN repaste and benchmark again so I can see what kind of improvements (hopefully) I have achieved. I also know nothing about where to apply thermal pads and/or the little heatsinks I purchased so I bought some non-hardening modeling clay to try and determine the spaces between the components and the bottom of the case. Should be fun!

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Yeah that should be fun, but just take your time and don't strip screws or make things worse taking it apart 100 times.

If you get it all figured out with exactly what thickness pads go where it would be a great service to the community if you shared that info here. I don't plan to mess with mine anymore unless the performance drops, but it would be great to not have to start from scratch if I did need to repaste the whole thing.

 

Yeah I'm planning on doing the same thing as far as pasting first then looking at temps prior to other improvements, and if I do use the modeling clay I will most certainly take photos and update the thread with any results. I thought the same thing about the screws, though I didn't strip anything(yet) I figured I could go to a hardware store and find replacement screws if necessary. More concerning to me than the screws, which can be easily replaced, are the clips that hold the bottom case in place as those will weaken over time with repeated removal and reinstallation. Unfortunate side affect of plastic chassis I suppose.

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How do you mo itor gpu

 

Can someone with a stock RTX3070 post there max Board and GPU chip power draws please.

 

Well it appears according the Nvidia control panel it only is 140W

 

Do you own an MSI laptop? There is no vBIOS firmware update listed on either of the GE76 3070 configurations on MSI's support site so I would assume that no it would not work, otherwise they would have put an updated vBIOS firmware on the site. What is interesting is that they have a blog post talking about updated vBIOS and they actually list the GE66/GP66 with the 3070 and they have updated vBIOS for those so perhaps one of those would work as they are specifically for the 3070. (see the links at bottom of the blog post). Flash at your own risk.

https://www.msi.com/blog/upgrade-the-vbios-of-ge76-raider-and-release-the-extreme-performance

 

Yes i have a GE76 Raider with 11800h rtx3070.

 

I just checked and MSI released another new bios for the 3070 today. I installed it and it appears to have reset the GPU power draw specs.

 

That's interesting. If it does in fact work, I wonder if there's any harm in actually feeding the 3070 more power. If it doesn't cause the temp to go up a bunch and you have the power & thermal headroom then why not?

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I ran Timespy and it didnt change the score so other than reporting higher wattage it didnt seem to do anything.

 

no compatable display adapters were found

 

Well I was wrong. After playing Doom eternal for a hour it ramped up again. Not sure if this is a GPU Z error or wth is going on. THe machine runs great.

 

Just grabbed the 11800h & 3060 model from costco. Gonna give it the LM treatment and see how much hp I can squeeze out of it.

Lovin the chassis, has this nice sporty feel to it.

 

Awesome, welcome aboard I just got mine about about week ago and also just did LM on both CPU and GPU. Let me know how you decide to set it up, I'll post all my photos when I can. I did the foam dam thing around the dies to protect from stray LM but it wasn't making great contact and I just ended up going messy and surrounding everything with thermal paste. I've never used LM before so I'm scared. The laptop will spend 99% of its time sitting on a laptop cooler as I work from home. Also, I lost one screw that holds on the bottom plate. I went to 2 hardware stores and kind find it. Anyway to find out the exact dimensions of it?

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Thank You! These two should be arriving this weekend for me to apply LM

Foam Seal Tape-3 Rolls, 1/2 Inch Wide X 1/8 Inch Thick High Density Foam Strip Self Adhesive Neoprene Rubber Door Weather Stripping Insulation Foam Window Seal Total 50 Feet Long （16.5ft x 3 Rolls）: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

High Temp Tape, ELEGOO 4 Pack Polyimide High Temperature Resistant Tape Multi-Sized Value Bundle 1/8’’, 1/4’’, 1/2’’, 1’’ with Silicone Adhesive for Masking, Soldering etc.: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Been wanting to use a foam dam for some time so very excited on learnings and reducing the stress that LM brings from spills

 

Ok awesome, I used something similar. Take some pictures as you go if you can and let me know if you end up making good contact. You should see a pretty good drop in temps from whatever it is now. My stock thermal application was pretty terrible.

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Oh my gosh, I just turned it on after removing the foam dams and replacing with thermal paste around the edges to get better contact with LM. Cpu idling at 38celcius and GPU at 39celcius! When I first got it would idle in high 40s to low 50s. And this is in discrete graphics mode with high performance power plan. I haven't even reinstalled Windows, undervolt and tweak with Throttlestop yet.

**Edit: For anyone reading this, I don't necessarily encourage the removal of foam dams when using liquid metal. I got tired after 3 days of trying to tweak it, putting back together, back apart and still not seeing the results. I did still cover alot of the board using Conformal coating, Super 33 tape, Kapton tape, and then surrounding both CPU & GPU with a barrier of standard thermal paste. Pictures and description to follow once I'm finished with clean install of Windows, debloat windows, undervolt and make adjustments in Throttlestop.

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Hi, can you check what Display/Monitor is in your GE76?

 

MONITOR\SHP14EC

 

Thank you, but I'm interested in Costco 144Hz panel model.

 

Monitor Name: AU Optronics B173HAN04.9

 

Thank you.
I bought my GE76 with i7-10750H also in Costco (three months ago) then model with 11800H show up two months later, so I bought it, but after comparing screens on both, decided to keep "old one" with IMO much better screen (same which was installed in GE75: CMN N173HCE-G33 ). Screen was more important for me than CPU performance, since I don't game much lately .
One with 11800H on left, 10750H on right:

Spec comparison:

 

Interesting! I feel you on the importance of the panel.
It's interesting that in my costco, this was the only unit they had. I dropped in today to check on my way to work and they removed the option to buy it.

 

I hope you didn't return it prior to removing MSI True Color software. It's a known issue that's been included in GE76 reviews on YouTube. I had the same issue, Uninstalled True Color and panel looks amazing. I have a hard time believing that the 300hz screen is worse than the 144hz, not to mention all the other things your giving up on 11th gen like PCIe 4.0, DDR4 3200MHZ ram, Thunderbolt 4, a faster processor, etc.

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Truecolor isn't compatible with my model....

 

True Color wasn't even installed on this laptop. I've tried different color profiles (in CP), but is just not good panel (MSI is using this panel in budget models GL/GF Series and now in Costco version of GE76.
Link to review GF 76 Katana with this panel(AU Optronics B173HAN04.9):
MSI Katana GF76 review: Gaming laptop with room for improvement - NotebookCheck.net Reviews

 

Really, all GE76 10th Gen have TrueColor listed on their support site?

https://us.msi.com/product/support_sku/54439#down-driver&Win10 64

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This maybe? There's lots of posts with same problem. I got same error on a few different programs/drivers after Windows 10 clean install.

https://www.msi.com/faq/faq-3623

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Thanks! Will try it out when I wrap up work.

 

You bet I'm not new to performance laptops, but I am new to MSI so I'm learning as I go along. Unlocking their BIOS is also amazing, it allows you to make enough modifications to make your head spin. Just search Unlock bios and the keyboard shortcut will come up.

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The foam dams were a little thick, sanded it a little but ideally would want to use something less thick in the future. Need to grab pictures from my camera for my youtube channel, but in the meantime here's a prelim result. Scores used to be 1850 before LM! (Thank God)

 

Awesome! I don't know much about benchmarking so I haven't used R15, I used Cinebench R20 and R23, userbenchmark.com, Geekbench, crystal disk, 3DMark Timespy, Throttlestop TS Bench and I can't remember if there was a few others. I haven't don't any overclocking yet, I am just testing to look at temps and they are incredible. After Windows debloat, it idles at about 4watts, 0%-1% CPU usage, and as low as 32 celcius on CPU. Hopefully I can get the rest of my schoolwork done this weekend (I went back to college) and then I'll start undervolt/overclock. I'll need some help in Throttlestop as I'm not as familiar with it as well as the 11th gen platform changes since Skylake which was in my last laptop. I'm also struggling with MSI Center, it locks up on me alot, and that's after a completely clean Windows install. It was doing the same prior to my reinstall so I'm pretty sure it's a problem with the software. I want to give it a chance because it allows GPU overclocking, custom fan profile and power profiles as well as a few other modules that look like they could be useful. I'm excited to see your photos as I'm sure I'll use the dam method the next time I apply LM (which hopefully isn't for awhile)

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