*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Hmm... Not sure about that microswitch close to the USB on power plug side. Speaking about that side, when you put back the motherboard, the side with the ethernet port must go into the chassis first. Then when placing down the power plug side, there will be ample room.
Did you buy from a local retailer or online?

 

Online! And the Button unfortunately does nothing! :/
Getting it serviced will probably take ages and cost a lot! Meh!

 

Oh, and it seems to be the reset button, becuasether IS a small hole and I can push the button through it!

 

I would restore the laptop first (thoroughly clean LM re-paste and re-apply with non liquid metal) and see if that works. If not, call up your online retailer for an exchange. if you are in the U.S., it's illegal for manufacturers to void warranty opening the machine for repair or upgrades. As long as no visible damage to components, then it should be fine. Heck, MSI has a one year Accidental Damage Coverage that can cover broken screens, dead / abused batteries, and even shorting from water spill/flooding as I interpreted.
This is why I bought from Best Buys locally (when cost is comparable).

 

I will try! I'm in Germany, though!

 

Worth a try?
http://www.tomsguide.com/answers/id...e-light-led-blinking-flashing-orange-led.html

 

Nope! Won't fly! But thanks!

 

Try going into Nvidia Control Panel and change the power management mode to adaptive. My gpu runs at full turbo clock automatically when needed.

 

Does anyone have an GPU undervolt reference for the 1070 version of this in Afterburner? My CPU does a decent 0.150 undervolt in throttlestop already and would like to explore more thermal lowering options.

 

You don't undervolt Pascal GPU's like this.

You "undervolt" by raising the clock speed (overclocking), or by locking (Control F and then press L) a lower voltage point. But this isn't an undervolt. It freezes the clock at the target voltage point.
If you had an older Pascal video bios (with a hardware programmer available), e.g. a 4 core laptop equipped with a 1070, you could mod the video bios to unlock the TDP slider, and then lower the slider to a TDP below 100%, which limits the clock speed and thus "undervolts", but this editor doesn't seem to work on video cards on laptops that have 6 core equipped CPU's. So all you can do is bring up the afterburner clock curve graph, lock a lower voltage point and press L and apply. But this also reduces your clock speed. You can't undervolt directly.

The closest thing to undervolting is *overclocking*, thus making the card run faster at the same clock.

 

Ah got it. Thanks! Was kinda used to adjusting the power limit on my desktop 1070 with Afterburner.

So overlocking the laptop GPU in this would make it have a higher clock, but still remain at a fixed voltage. Would that be what you're saying?

 

Yes that's basically it. If you want to "Undervolt", you HAVE to overclock.
You lock (press L on the voltage graph) or set a lower voltage point on the graph (or you find the voltage point you want to use, then "flatten" the graph completely, starting at that voltage point and all the way to the right, THEN you overclock (or not).

 

Yes I tried that before knowing that if SpeedStep is disabled and SpeedShift is enable in BIOS and enter sleep mode in battery mode then plug in on resumed will cause the GPU to get stuck at battery speed. Good that the problem was found!

 

I had enough trouble finding Dragon Center that I went another route: Installing the Skylake + version of Silent Option and uninstalling Dragon Center for good. Problem solved, and oh how well this machine behaves now that it's gone.

 

Thank you for the update. I am glad you found a fix that works. I will have to keep that one in my back pocket next time i see this issue.

 

So just a quick update. I finally added my 2tb SSD, and did my re re re paste after all the testing I did with various paste jobs. I still stand by my conclusions in my review - I'm getting the best temps with Conductonaut LM on the CPU and Kryonaut on the GPU.

It's worth noting that I reverted back to using the stock pads on the components just above the CPU. I did a couple dry runs with both stock and fujipoly and found that the CPU heatsink makes better contact with the stock pads.

I also did an electrical tape job underneath the battery. A single layer everywhere I could hit, and some foam pads in the gaps to put pressure on the battery and keep it from moving. I hardly hear any creaking now. The is still a single spot on the right, but I can live with it. There's still flex when lifting from the front edge, and the only way to fix that is with some shims, but I don't want to add any more weight.

 

You probably don't have a picture where you did put the tape? Also would it make sense to glue the battery with the hot plastic to the chassis? Just looking for opinions.

 

You can try arctic pads instead of the stock pads. They work well too.
Fujipoly are too hard and inflexible. And when you have a heatsink that only has very low, light static pressure on the CPU, anything that reduces pressure even more, like hard inflexible pads, just makes temps worse and leads to higher core temp differentials.

Arctic 1mm and 0.5mm pads are a good compromise between wanting more cooling performance and improving the gummy, low quality stock pads. VRM cooling isn't even the limiting factor on any of these laptops (excluding some alienwares), unlike GPU VRM cooling, which is absolutely essential or magic smoke; the MSI 16L13 barebones has NO VRM cooling whatsoever.

 

Do you have a comparison between LM and Fuji vs LM/Kryonaut and stock pads?



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No I didn't think to. But I literally put a single layer everywhere underneath that was plastic. Old picture attached. Red boxes are where I put a single layer, and the green circles are where I added extra foam pads. I went thick on the pads to add pressure on the battery against the bottom lid and keep it from sliding. I probably could have rolled up some electrical tape, sticky aide out.

I thought about gluing it but decided against it since the battery needs to be disconnected in order to upgrade. I also wasn't sure how many times it would take to get rid of the creaking and didn't want to deal with glue. It took me 3 tries, so I think I chose wisely.

Edit: that little red square was supposed to be a green circle

 

No, sorry. Can't afford doing stuff like that.
LM is usually considered to be at least 10C better than Kryonaut.

 

I put mine here:. https://www.ultrabookreview.com/20439-msi-gs65-review/

All those results are with Fuji pads. I haven't posted my current results yet, but I plan to later today.

 

Thanks. I look forward to it. I have time to make changes to my order before it goes through


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Hi all. Looking for some assistance re: Intel Rapid Storage driver. My GS65 has two Samsung PM981 nvme drives in it. I noticed that the RST tray icon kept saying "RST service not running" so I uninstalled it and planned to re-install using the package available on MSI's website. However, when I click to install I get "platform not supported". Is RST not needed/supported when using strictly nvme drives?

 

Did anybody try a cooling pad yet?

 

They don't do anything except protect your lap. Most of the air is drawn in from the top. I use a slate lapdesk.

 

Same, works for work and play. It's truely a new age for gaming laptops

 

Created an account because I wanted to thank everyone here for all this useful information & share my results. I spent a good deal of time reading / skimming this thread for info and I've had great results. I unlocked my bios using the key combo and disabled the over-voltage options. I removed Dragon Center, installed the Silent Option fan app and made a profile (no higher then 130%). I was able to keep very consistent clocks without throttling. Here are my Firestrike results:

https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15725842

This is on stock paste with multipliers at 41 / 41 / 40 / 40 / 38 / 38

One thing notable was the RAM overclock, using some kind of "odd frequency" setting in the bios. You see its 2526MHz, small bump but I also lowered the first two timings to 16 from 17. If anyones interested I can get all my settings.

I think there is still some more tweaking I can do to reduce random temperature spikes but it's not too bad, and this test was without a cooling pad, which I will have soon. Any thoughts on that, without hurting performance much, is appreciated. I may try a few small voltage offsets.

 

Is anyone else having a lot of issues with Optimus graphics switching. I get a lot of freezing on the mouse curser. Something simple like clicking on the battery icon causes freezing.

 

Hi good to hear that. This forum helped me also the most.
If you don't mind I would be interested in your bios settings just to compare to mine and finding the sweet spot

 

Yes I did... I forced nvidia to be used all the time. I don't use it on battery ever unless traveling which is rare anymore. It was so annoying I had to make sure it stopped. If you have chrome installed when clicking on it to run it stutters so bad. Just select nvidia as the primary using nvidia's control panel. Also like you said clicking of the battery to check it's level on the task bar chugs real bad.

 

I'm going to do some more testing over the weekend but I'll be sure to come back with some BIOS / fan curve screenshots

 

Yup. This is a known issue across all Optimus laptops in the past two years. Really annoying...

 

Thank you, I am very interested in your results.

 

I updated my temp chart with my hybrid paste results. Also added the tape fix to the build quality section and another firestrike score in the benchmarks section(fully OC, with paste and optimized fans, etc.)

 

I'm on battery a lot unfortunately. Oddly enough, turning off the GTX and working off of the integrated graphics kills battery too.

 

Thanks! What’s the FPS difference between 3.6GHZ and 3.9GHz? I was thinking of doing the same max turbo when I receive my laptop.


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Depends on the game but almost negligible for most. It's only going to matter on CPU intensive games. Even then you're looking at an 8% drop and probably less since the GPU and other factors are involved.

 

Any updates on the power button not working, SplineO? Curious if you figured out the issue in case anyone else runs into a similar issue. Could it be the end of the ribbon cable to the power button came loose somehow when it was pulled out? (Not the mobo end, the end to the switch)

 

And what about non gaming, such as video editing and rendering?

 

Hey!

I tried everything, took the notebook apart completely. All cables seem fine and are connected. In the end I sent it into service yesterday. I'll report back once I have it. I'll need to go in and do the repaste and upgrades then, as they refuse to even add the SSD.
I'll be in touch!

 

Okay so I have an observation about using a cooling pad.

I ran Firestrike again with the same bios settings as my first test (score 13,473). However this time I set the fans to automatic speed profile and used a laptop cooling pad. I got literally, the same exact score... that is the first time I've ever gotten EXACTLY the same score in Firestrike, LOL. So I thought well, lets see what happens if I run the test again with the cooling pad, and with my fan curve profile that ramps up to 130% CPU and 150% GPU profile like the first test I did.

This time, I got a score of 13,498. Wow that is a very small difference for all of that extra noise!

So my conclusion is if you really only game at your workstation, leave your fan profile on automatic all the time, but use a cooling pad. It is FAR quieter and probably better on the moving parts inside the laptop.

(to restate, I'm using Silent Option)

 

Well, I get a 7% drop in the Cinebench score, which lines up with the .3 GHz drop. Really though, unless you undervolt and repaste, it'll be a negligible difference since you'll be throttling anyways.

 

@ chrash4fun: What cooling pad are you using?

 

I want to share my current setting, very stable.

Paste: Grizzly kryonaut (34 days since repaste) / Stock cooling pad

ThrottleStop Settings (Plugged in):

>>Speed Shift-EPP 96 SST
>>Speed Shift enbled in BIOS
>>Speed Shift Min 11 / Max 40
>>Turbo Ratio 40/40/39/39/38/38
>>CPU Core offset -117.2mV
>>CPU Cache offset -55.7mV
>>Intel GPU offset -150.4mV
>>System Agent -70.3mV
>>Analog I/O -61.5mV

Fan setting (Fans never activate on Battery mode):
>>CPU: 0% / 0% / 70% / 80% / 90% / 100%
>>GPU: 0% / 0% / 65% / 75% / 85% / 95%

W on full load with 40/40/39/39/38/38:
>>51.8-53.1W

Multiplier when 45W Throttle kicks in:
>>36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36 / 36

In fire strike test I get:

GPU core +0 / Mem +0
Temp: CPU 86C GPU 76C
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27114324?

GPU core +200 / Mem +300
Temp: CPU 86C GPU 78C
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15740488

Odd that on the CPU core offset the voltage stops lowering when I reached -117.2mV for 3.8GHz on 6 cores.
Had to lower the voltage by lowering CPU cache offset for further.
As a result, the lowest voltage my CPU can reach was 1.0144mV on 3.8GHz (No error in ThrottleStop stress test).

I use this laptop for everyday work too, my settings on Battery mode is:

>>Speed Shift-EPP 127 SST
>>Speed Shift enbled in BIOS
>>Speed Shift Min 11 / Max 40
>>Turbo Ratio 22/22/22/22/22/22
>>CPU Core offset -200.2mV
>>CPU Cache offset -108.4mV
>>Intel GPU offset -150.4mV
>>System Agent -70.3mV
>>Analog I/O -61.5mV
>>Turbo boost: off
>>Max CPU usage % in Power Option = 55%, 1.2GHz max with Turbo boost off and this.

Lowest voltage on battery for 1.2GHz was 0.5748mV, CPU package consumes 6.4W max, idle at around 1.4~1.8W, Highest C-state is C8.
Usually I get up to 7 hour Battery with lots of word / excel editing / Edge browsing (does not accidently activate dGPU for 8 sec if not going to any video site that's using flash).

 

GS65's 1070 Max-Q can go lower than 0.8000V when on full load, is there anyway to edit the voltage lower than 0.800 on the Voltage/Frequency curve editor?

 

I'm using this one, the 3 fan option. It's nothing to write home about but it does its job.

It helps a little bit, but every little bit counts. Makes a good platform, and I'm sure its better for the other surrounding components.

 

holy **** your firestrike is high. I get 12450 with no overclock, 13450 with overclock, although my gpu never goes above 71 degrees. with my 200/400 overclock, I get 13451, with a physics of 15658 and a graphics of 15191. Are you on the newest EC and BIOS update? When I bought the laptop I was getting ~12850 with no OC and downclocked cpu to 3.4ghz and now I get 12250 with the same settings

 

this post was an accident

 

I get the same as him. Undervolted and properly cooked, my Physics score is around 16200. Since the final score is an average, that makes a huge difference.