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Both are currently at -75.2mV in TS. Just curious if this bios setting does anything.
Advanced Bios > Advanced Tab > Overclocking Menu > Enable menu.




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unclewebb doesn't always have time to answer in other threads, you might post your question with supporting details like here in his thread:

The ThrottleStop Guide
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/the-throttlestop-guide.531329/page-831#post-10775282

 

Oh yes it does.
Just ask @Tweety78 and @heliada
Dragon Center enables TDC Enable and sets the CPU TDC to 640. And without an unlocked Bios, none of us sheep would have ever known this.

 

No it doesn't stack. It's the exact same option as Throttlestop, except CPU cache and core voltage are supposed to be linked (which is why there is no option to unlink them in the bios).
If you use the Bios to undervolt and then load Throttlestop with a clean profile, you will see the offset voltage applied at the top right corner already (same goes for "uncore" offset, which I don't seem to find any use for. Maybe some people trying to overclock their memory might need to use that).

 

For what it's worth:

I picked up a CalDigit TS3Plus dock. Finally got around to hooking it up. Glad I did. The sheer quantity of expansion this thing offers is kinda ridiculous. I currently have connected:

Keyboard (2 USB 3.0 ports because it has a USB passthrough for a mouse).
Mouse (see previous).
1TB 2.5" spinning disk for extra storage in a USB to SATA 3 case (for extra storage).
1Gb Ethernet.
DisplayPort pass-through (which is working better than I'd anticipated).
Audio out to my little Lepai amp (no complaints about sound quality).
And the SD card reader.

Just two cables on the notebook: power and Thunderbolt 3 to the dock.

So, yeah. I call it a worthwhile purchase.

 

I am not even sure what TDC is TDP I get, that's with the 45W limit thing - my cpu doesn't do that. In hwinfo I clearly see max VR voltage is being reached, granted I have never changed it in my bios. I don't see the need anyway, I never run anything remotely as demanding as prime95 unless I wanna stress test for the others in the forums as reference ^^
PS. I am also not stuck to 3.3GHz in prime as the person in this thread, I boost at 3.6-3.7 on all cores in prime95 with nice 90-95W power draw constant. I do admit it bounces lower at first before settling.

 

I just got my MSI GS65

I am having trouble with the performance of my graphics card. It continues to drop in frames. As times go on it would only get worst.

I have attempted to update all my drivers

The issue wasn’t resolve.

I contacted both MSI and NViDa and only did basic troubleshooting but still isn’t resolve.

As last resort I had to factory reset my laptop and issue persist.

I am playing league of legends.
I would cap my performance at 60FPS
Then the frames after a few minutes would drop to 45 then rebound to 60.

It continues to freeze.
And it continues this trend of going down more and more and eventually hits 01 FPS then freezes for a few second and then gets back to 60FPS

After a few more times the entire laptop would freeze and had to force restart. Please support me...I really want to resolve this issue.

 

TDC=total design current or thermal design current something bizarre, it's something like the total amount of current that is allowed to pass through a chip per some unit of time. I'm not sure if its on a duty cycle or not (like the obscure POWER LIMIT 3), but it's NOT the same as CPU VR Current Limit (ICCMAX) which is the total sustained current the voltage regulators can draw. Needless to say, a TDC limit means MOAR THROTTLING, except you see the word "Current" in Throttlestop, rather than "EDP OTHER" which you see if you exceed the amps in VR Current Limit.

 

Given past experience - many years of complaints about LOL LAG, it's the game, an update to the game, Nvidia driver conflict with LOL update, etc.

It's all LOL, so it's best to debug it on their support site and other gaming forums that support LOL LAG and bugs, start by googling, and then find your favorite sites / threads covering specific LOL issues in depth to get fixes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=league+of+legends+fps+drop+2018

Low Frame Rate (Lag)
https://support.riotgames.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005102387-Low-Frame-Rate-Lag-

Frame Skipping on High-End PCs
https://support.riotgames.com/hc/en-us/articles/209010626-Frame-Skipping-on-High-End-PCs

Troubleshooting Lag or Low FPS in the Updated Client
https://support.riotgames.com/hc/en...shooting-Lag-or-Low-FPS-in-the-Updated-Client

Those are recent, there are many more.

It's rare to find specific gaming performance answers here in the laptop support threads, beyond what I just posted.

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...e-voltage-regulator-down-11-1-guidelines.html

PAGE 9:

The continuous load current (ICCTDC) can also be referred to as the Thermal Design Current (TDC). It is the sustained DC equivalent current that the processor is capable of drawing indefinitely and defines the current that is used for the voltage regulator temperature assessment. At TDC, switching FETs may reach maximum allowed temperatures and may heat the baseboard layers and neighboring components. The envelope of the system operating conditions, establishes actual component and baseboard temperatures. This includes voltage regulator layout, processor fan selection, ambient temperature, chassis configuration, and so on. To avoid heat related failures, baseboards should be validated for thermal compliance under the envelope of the system’s operating conditions. It is proposed that voltage regulator thermal protection be implemented for all designs (Section 6.2).

The maximum load current (ICCMAX) represents the maximum peak current that the processor is capable of drawing. It is the maximum current the VRM/EVRD must be electrically designed to support without tripping any protection circuitry.

The maximum step load current (IccStep) is the maximum dynamic step load that the processor is expected to impose on its Vcc power rail within the Iccmin and Iccmax range, where the Iccmin is the processor’s minimum load, constituted by its leakage current.

 

That’s cpu undervolting menu from Bios, on my old Blade 14 I had that overclocking menu after moding the bios. Is it there on default? Nice. With that -70, it should undervolting cpu Core and cache -70mV, on my Blade was so and i didn’t need to undervolt again on Window. Try resetting your undervolting value and do that only on that Bios, check your voltage like using Intel XTU etc.

 

Hi , how can I safely clean my gs65 screen?

 

Damp cloth, with the laptop and AC turned off.
Use the cloth that the laptop came with, assuming it came with one between the keyboard.

 

On my old laptop, typically I stuck with the notebook manufacturers intel and ati drivers so that the gfx switching would work correctly. Should I stick with the MSI drivers, or use the newest nvidia releases?

 

Can someone post their ICC profile that came default with windows?
*Bonus points* for whoever posts their calibrated colors as well.

 

I just use this on all the screens in the house, it works amazing (it's like over 10 years old tho haha but extremely safe even for the brushed aluminium parts etc). Don't think it's sold anymore, but there are other brands making specific gentle cleaners for LCD's. Also, in supermarkets they usually sell little cloths specially made for screens (at least here they do). They have super short fibres which never let go. You can also use a cloth for glasses, just make sure it's very soft. Also don't ever use a cloth you used on anything else on your screen. Just get a new one and only use that on the screen, don't wash it with other stuff etc to prevent something sharp being caught on it.

 

I live in Brazil and, I found similar stuff on the internet but it all looks cheap and sketchy none of them even advertise what’s the composition of the products. Laptops are really expensive here, if I’d bought my gs65 here in Brazil I would have paid 20000 Brazilian reais which is around 5400 US dollars (it costs only 2000 dollars in the US). For this reasons there aren’t many reliable products and accessories for laptops here.

 

Well it's not a laptop accessory... it's good for tv's etc. And the one I have doesn't have composition on it either :x But it's a good one, doesn't leave residue, doesn't damage anything and cleans of all the kitty paw prints on our tv

 

Default MSI GS65 Windows Color Profile Folder (ignore U2311H that is my external monitor)
and calibrated color profile of the display

True Color software download link https://www.msi.com/Laptop/support/GS65-Stealth-Thin-8RF#down-driver&Win10 64

True Color install location C:\Program Files\Portrait Displays\MSI True Color

Backup of my MSI True Color folder: https://mega.nz/#!2iglnTgL

...I'm not sure if MSI True Color utility really contains specific calibrations for the display of the GS 65 in particular, or if its only some general color tweak.

Explaination of the different profiles:

 

Wtf, are you kidding right? 5400$? I can buy a top MSI WT75 with that money in my country .

 

I know, very few people buy high end gaming stuff here. We usually buy pc parts, laptops and other electronic stuff when we travel. The tax here for electronic devices is 60% and because almost nothing is made here this adds up with high importation taxes.

 

I’m trying to update windows but every time the update gets stuck at 15% and I have to shutdown and restore the previous windows version. Any suggestions?

 

Im not from Brazil but i live in Portugal and know very well your situation.

 

Wait longer?

Over time I've seen people say they've left it for hours and it finally works...the longest I've had to wait was about 90 minutes, that was with the Windows 8.0 to 8.1 upgrade.

And, if you are using automatic Windows Update, MS will keep updating and trying to update you, and eventually it will work - or brick your system - Welcome to the Wonderful World of Windows Updates.

As @Papusan says, don't use automatic Windows 10 Updates, wait for it to become stable, and then do the update from download.

If you have good backups of all your personal stuff + an image backup of your working system, try loading the new point release installation image and install from scratch instead of doing an update over a running install, it's got a better chance of success + you can reinstall all of your applications and reconfigure everything from scratch all over again.

Ya gotta Love Windows 10!!

 

The updates is also available for direct download on the Microsoft Update Catalog website. Install afterwards when it fits you. Don't let Micro$h4ft determines whats best for you or them. Will never work properly. Latest update for Windows 10 version 1803 if thats what you have (direct download).

After you install the Cumulative update and reboot, then install the Adobe Flash Player Update (no need to reboot for the Adobe Flash Update)

Adobe Flash Update KB4338832

Edit. Update on the release date can often **** up your system - better wait some time.

See post above

 

hey guys, could you help me make a best choice between the laptops , if it's not a big deal for you Because mb i don't have all information after all updates (firmware\software).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...15x-vs-asus-rog-strix-gl504gs-and-etc.821815/

 

For those who have access to the RAM settings, I've been using this setup for 3 weeks now, no crash or anything. Small upgrade to 2666 free of charge.

※※※Attention※※※
If you messed up your RAM settings and doesn't boot, hold power button for 45 second to do a full CMOS clear, the RAM settings will go back to default.
※※※Attention※※※



AIDA Bench


RAM Spec

 

Nice read speeds but I am not impressed by those latency numbers.
Try setting tRFC To 270. 450+ is really really high. And you gain no benefit of tREFI=65535 (set this to the highest IMO, i am sure it goes higher than 65000), if you don't tighten tRFC.
tRFC is the amount of time the RAM can spend doing NOTHING (so tighter tRFC means the ram will work faster) and tREFI is the amount of time the RAM can spend doing SOMETHING. A low tREFI means the RAM has to recharge sooner, which incurs a latency and speed penality, but if the tREFI is too high for the mainboard, the RAM data might degrade if it's not recharged often enough (this takes testing).

I get around 36000-37000 read, 38000 write and (idk) copy, and about 49.8ns with 15/15/15/35, 1T, tREFI=65535, tRFC=270, at 2400 mhz.
tRFC =270 is usually stable on most chips.

 

Oh shoot, so we copy these settings onto our bios and the RAM performs as 2666MHz?

 

Actually on these Samsung RAM tRFC=270 doesn't boot, at 410~430 for 2666MHz I get BSOD after 1-2 hours of Prime95 test, and sometimes BSOD when resumed from sleep, so basically mine is stuck at 430+, which is unfortunate. For tREFI I was searching on the internet to see what other people might be using because the testing range is a little large needed more clue, I've tried 16000 but the performance seems to degrade overtime (I see freezings after 2-3 days of use without shutting down), 32000 I still see that at rare occasion, and so far 65000 is working without any problem. Probably related to the quality of the memory or something.

That is right, select Custom Profile and the digits will become configurable.
You can go in 2 combinations, 133 x 10 for 1333MHz (DDR4 2666) or 100 x 13 for 1300MHz (DDR4 2600), I use the 133 x 10 one.

 

User FrankieAndMe from LoL boards found the solution to the problem:
https://boards.na.leagueoflegends.c...rting-7-10-minutes-until-game-is-fully-frozen
Looks like the Nahimic software causes these freezes so to fix them you just need to turn it off along with services bound to it.

 

Not a great fix, more of a problem to be fixed:

" For Riot:

MSI users need Nahimic because it is a crucial program since it delivers the core sound quality that we need to make games and videos more enjoyable. With the program terminated, we are limited to listening to some low quality sound. Since you know the issue now, please take some time and work with MSI or Nahimic and find the fix to this issue. I want to be able to play LoL with Nahimic on. That is one of the reasons I bought this laptop in the first place. Thanks."

 

Yeah must be how TDC was set to 640 as I never touched it myself in the BIOS. Dragon center was uninstalled after that.

 

Have you tried 2400 mhz, tREFI=65535, tRFC=270, RAM timings 14-15-34, command rate 1T, tRTP=5, tWR=10 ? (note: tWR must be 2x tRTP or black screen you go !).

Note of Note: tRAS should be equal to CAS + tRCD(tRP) + tRTP for best results.

In your screenshot, that would mean tRTP should be 6 and tWR should be 12 (2xtRTP).

Happy black screening while you test that!

 

So in prolonged sessions my cpu heat curve is not flatlined at 90- its floating mid 80s to mid 70s with spikes.

But Highest spike recorded was 94 (and only once in two days.) Should this worry me? This is not a plateau- but a spike.

 

No. If it's pined at 99C with thermal throttle constantly engaged then there is a problem, likely a cooling system failure. Anything less falls within Intel's design tolerances.

 

TY! im just not through the babying this thing phase- and making sure im in spec.

 

I've tried, currently I've encountered the followings:

=================2400MHz Set up===================

tRFC=270 → No go and needed full CMOS Clear, lowest it will accept for 2400 is 382.
RAM timings=14-15-34 → Go confirmed.
tRTP=5 / tWR=10 → Go confirmed.

2400 Setup


AIDA Bench - 2400


===================2666 Setup=====================

tRTP=6 / tWR=12 → Go confirmed.
Reading speed and Latency slightly improved.

2666 Setup screenshot


AIDA Bench - 2666


Stability not tested for both settings.

 

Looks like dropping tRTP to 6 at 2666 mhz gave you a nice latency improvement (59 ns->56 ns).
Unless the volcano god just happened to smile at you.

Too bad I can't seem to do 2666 mhz except at horrendous timings.
Kingston Valueram 2400, 4x8GB (default 17-17-39 2T):
No problem at 2400 mhz 14/15/15/34, 1T, tRFC=270, tREFI=65535, tRTP=5/tWR=10.

Yet 2666 mhz requires 18-19-19-43 (!!). Every time I tried 17-17-39 (e.g. stock), hello 3 minutes of my life gone.

I'm tempted again to do 2 more hours of black screens trying to do your 15/15/36 1T, tRFC=434, and 6/12 to try to get 2666 mhz to not black screen but you know it won't work. I'd like 40000 read speed instead of 37000....

 

Could someone show pictures of what kelllemar is describing? I don't really know what im looking for. Is it something that requires taking out the battery or what?

 

I'm starting to think the Kingston Valueram 2666 mhz is exactly the same as the 2400 mhz, just with looser timings. And maybe just binned.
Cuz look at this.

2400 mhz Valueram (17-17-17-39 2T): yet runs 14/15/15/34 1T.
https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR24S17D8_16.pdf

2666 mhz Valueram (19/19/19/?? guessing 43, 2T). Yet my 2400 mhz Valueram runs 18/19/19/43 at 2666 mhz.
https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/KVR26S19D8_16.pdf

Yet your own 2400 mhz Samsung seems to have the same base timings (17/17/17 it says), yet you can run at nice low timings but not as low tRFC.

https://s3.ap-northeast-2.amazonaws...8Gb_C_die_Unbuffered_SODIMM_Rev1.5_Apr.18.pdf

But somehow you can run 2666 mhz at blazing speeds while I get a nice big black screen unless I use wooden timings.
I love life.

 

@hackness

Sure I get lower ns than you but I want your read speeds...
What do you get at 2400 mhz 14/15/34 ?

 

Ok, so if you open the bottom case, look at where the battery is at. Now in front of the battery, is the edge of the laptop. On the inside of that front, there are "hooks" that are about 1cm or half an inch long, that have a raised edge like a hook.

Tape over those.

 

I'm planning on getting the BestBuy version in two days and want to know what kind of diagnostics I should be running to see if the unit I get at the very least doesn't have any glaring irregularities. From what I've read so far, although I couldn't read all of it, people are concerned with thermals, undervolt settings (seems like there is decent variety here even for the same model), screen bleeding, etc. What else should I look for? Also if possible could I get instructions and/or recommendations on how to test these factors? Thanks.

 

I get lower read / write / copy and higher Latency than yours when trying 14-15-34-382 yesterday.



Honestly I think these Samsung RAMs are meant to be performed at 2666MHz, at 2666MHz it even got a lower latency when compared against my 2400 setup plus 10% increase in read / write speed.

Stable Fire strike score with new 2666 timings
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16071666

CPU at 3.9GHz, GPU is at +215/+700, Max wattage was 86W, I can push overall score past 14400 but I get blinking screen when my GPU core is pushed past +215.

 

@Falkentyne
Dragon center does writes to EC NVRAM to control fans LED's, uses XTU to overclock CPU where applicable and uses one library to oveclock GPU.
But there is no direct change to the BIOS. Actually to change something that low you need more than administrator privileges. For example Service with Local System privileges that installs Kernel driver, which on the other hand "can" eventually change something in the BIOS settings.
As much as I could see dragon center does not have such driver. There is WMI provided by MSI to manage few things on the EC, which on the other hand can (I think) have permissions to set something in the BIOS. There are parts of the BIOS which are not overridden when the BIOS is updated.
Those parts can come preconfigured by the manufacturer and even include BIOS defaults. They are used to save Windows keys, for example. You don't want to loose your license when update your BIOS right?

But does Dragon Center changes anything in the BIOS or it doesn't is not the point I think. The point is does those settings must be set as you say?
TDC Enabled = Disabled and TDC = 0. I cannot find some useful information about those settings, neither know how to test if I change it.

Have a great day.

 

And Thank You!!!! I taped it over with normal tape, and it is WAY better than before, still there, but not as noticeable. I put a little bit of padding under the battery and that helped a bit aswell. I can still hear a clicking noise when i press harder on the chassis, but i think it has something to do with the back plate not being a 100% flat (think the repair shop that put an extra drive in, bent it a bit? Thank you .

 

Hi Guys... 2933MHz Works... Wow... These Samsung RAMs are very capable...




Firestrike:
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16079558

 

I can't believe it....

 

can anyone screenshot the bios screen? especially the save and exit screen and what prompt comes up after you try and reset to default. i was messing around in the bios and disabled the igpu i guess

thanks

edit: nvm i figured it out

edit2: if you ever accidentally do this to your self

go right 4 times
down twice
enter twice
up twice
enter twice