*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

i still could not make it work. are you running all the latest drivers? ive installed all latest divers and msi software

 

correct me if am wrong, but i think you are using 1809 build of windows, if so from my experience i tried many different ways but i couldn't make it to work, the only option for me was to rollback to 1803.

 

Pressing Fn + F6 removes the camera from the Device Manager in Windows. The webcam indicator also goes dim on the F6 key. But I'm not sure if that truly blocks the access to the webcam.

 

By Latest, do you mean the latest from Intel / NVIDIA site or from MSI Site?

 

I usually right click on the device in Device Manager and Uninstall and delete drivers as well.

The F6 Key probably just "disables" the device, it can then be re-enabled ready to go.

By uninstalling, deleting drivers, and even deleting the entry in Device Manager, that's gone and won't come back without additional notifications and warnings that the user will see.

Unfortunately, Windows is usually pretty aggressive about re-installing "unknown" hardware at the next boot... so it can be problematic, probably worse with Windows 10.

Previous versions of Windows can disable this aggressive reinstall behavior, not sure about Windows 10 - if you've done similar to Windows 10 successfully as this article describes gpedit please let us know:

How to stop Windows 7 automatically installing drivers

Probably easier and more certain to unplug the devices next time you have the case open.

 

Yes all the latest drivers which are all listed in the main MSI forum in a thread called GT75 Drivers (8th gen)

 

1. Can someone suggest an alternative to Afterburner for monitoring temps while gaming? I prefer Dragon Center to Silent Option because of the shortcuts to switch fan profiles. (I've been told Afterburner & Dragon center don't work well together)

2. What is the best fan curve for gaming without wearing the fans too much? I intend to keep this laptop for 3+ years

 

1. Who else can tap on those sensors better than MSI themselves? Have you tried other apps such as Speccy or SpeedFan?
2. Add a laptop cooler to assist with airflow, additionally have Svet from MSI forum to assist you with a modified EC firmware with revised fan curve.

 

Dragon Center has the ability to Over Clock the GPU Core and Memory, however that is a problem because even though you Overclocked using other app, the Dragon Center will set the clock back to the setting you set in the Dragon Center.

In theory, Dragon Center is not working well with any GPU OC Tools out there.

I personally use HWINFO64 to Monitor because it doesn't wake the dGPU when dGPU isn't needed. And using nVIDIA Inspector to do startup overclock.

MSI Afterburner wakes the dGPU if you install NVIDIA driver later than 399.24, still waiting for a fix on that.

For Fans I can't give you a good advice, however I've it set to 0% 0% 50% 75% 100% 125% for both the CPU and the GPU.

 

If you're worried about fan longevity, MSI sent me an entire spare heatsink+fans after I asked them about a weird sound I thought I heard in the CPU fan. Weird sound was still there in the replacement so I realized it was normal but now I have a spare just in case. I only had to pay $10 for the shipping since it's been less than a year.

 

That is very nice. I bought one from a Chinese Online store for around 47 USD because I tend to keep a spare part of the laptop.

 

Thanks for your input, I'll look into the MSI forums to find out which is better for my system.

My laptop was mostly running on the dGPU when I installed Afterburner to try it out, however, MSI AB does give you the option to select the primary GPU to be the integrated and that fixed it for me.

Strangely enough, I was hearing a weird sound coming from my CPU fan also, but I got it fixed by removing some debris.

 

Hey guys, I've noticed that my GS65's mouse button gets stuck intermittently when I use the laptop on my lap. Upon fiddling around with it, I realised I can replicate this issue by lifting the laptop up by holding edge of the laptop near the corners of the touchpad and then clicking onto the touchpad. Just wondering if it happens to other GS65 as well before deciding to get an exchange or a refund.

 

Is anyone using a hard case/sleeve on their GS65?
I have a slight bowing on my laptop, that I LUCKILY am able to bend back. I throw it in the MSI backpack that was provided with the laptop but I'd like to put the laptop in a hard case before putting it into the backpack for extra protection.
Any suggestions?

 

The Targus ProTek sleeve does not quite fit. It's sized to snugly fit the slightly thinner Apple notebooks. I haven't found anything else that might be suitable so all I can do is recommend not getting anything sized specifically for Apple.

 

Did anyone have a problem with high hz values of an external monitor? My 34UC89G can't use anything above 60, writes "signal loss" and returns to default 60 hz after ten seconds. Complete cable with minidisplayport to displayport adapter, last drivers.

Any assumptions?
______________

upd: The problem was solved by simple replacing the cable. Which is strange a little bit, because on another laptop the cable and adapter worked correctly.

 

I have a problem with intermittent freezing of image on external displays using HDMI. It only happens when mirroring video content like Netflix in fullscreen. When the scene changes considerably, like a cut from one camera angle to another, the image on my TV will sometimes freeze for 0,5-1 second. On the built-in display, content is flowing smoothly. It can be seen at about 0:10 on this video.

These are the fixes I've tried:

• All three Windows mirroring configurations (mirrored, secondary display, only external display).
• Running the built-in display at 50 or 60 hz and mirroring with that
• Clean installing all NVIDIA drivers (not DDU but NVIDIA uninstaller)
• Three different cables
• Two different TVs
• Different streaming services

I would like to be able to watch movies and TV shows on my TV, but right now it's not enjoyable at all.
Anyone got any ideas?

 

Glad that you were able to resolve it. That's a common issue where some cables are not certified or due to insufficient bandwidth, and this includes HDMI cables too.

Try setting the TV as primary display.

 

Anyone know what else I can do to disable adaptive dimming? I already have it disabled in advanced power options but my laptop will keep dimming it self when I have it on full brightness and plugged in. Ill have to lower it and raise it again constantly to be at the highest

Also I noticeded we have MSI true color and the stealth thin SCM
Do you guys keep both for the display or use one over the other/delete one? or use neither?

 

About dimming I don't know.
About SCM and True Color: i fired SCM and i installed True Color standalone, but I think It is useless if you calibrate the display.

 

Default calibration is good, but when we used our calibration device we got better results. However, it is hard to notice the difference.

 

It's in the Intel control panel. Go into the battery settings and disable everything in there and select prefer Max performance and it will stop that

 

Pull up settings (The one will gear Icon) and go to System > Battery

Uncheck Allow Dimming in Battery Saver mode.

 

It's doing this even in plugged in mode, and ive done intel, ive done settings, ive disabled it from battery saver mode. But when its plugged in it still does it

 

Hmm... half of my backspace key is stuck on purple. The other half changes colors.
I guess I have a stuck LED now? Lol...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So you have gone to these 3 places and disabled dimming option?

1. Power Option
2. Intel Panel
3. Battery Page under Windows Settings

The above 3 places are completely different things, even though you have set it in the Power Option, you still need to change it in the Windows Settings, they are not linked for some reason, not a smart move by Microsoft.

Did you check if the dim brightness % in the Option is set to be the same as your Brightness?

 

Please try the registry method too if you can.
https://ugetfix.com/ask/how-to-disable-adaptive-brightness-feature-in-windows-10/

 

I would recommend to do an RMA on that. I had my laptop fixed, where they replaced keyboard, screen backplate and bezel, top case and the fansink. But i periodically had that issue as well, but went away. Now my touchpad is crooked though, and it might look like yours is as well. My policy is to get anything changed under warranty as quick as possible, then you will have a smaller chance of getting problems in the furture.

Downside: you have to wait for your laptop....

Upside: It's free

 

Would you be able to link the online store where you got it for $47? I'm only finding in on ebay for $100.

Thanks!

 

Taobao usually has it nailed.

It is in Chinese though.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...xgFGWr&id=575842344328&ns=1&abbucket=6#detail

 

great resource! thank you!

I've been going nuts trying to work out what configuration to get... so many add-ons and options for an already pricey machine.
I've decided to go stock (on the P65 version).

 

I sent my GS65 in to MSI for RMA regarding the battery charging issue I've been having. The technician ticket states that they replaced the battery but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. I've contacted them again to see if there is something else that can be done. At this point I would assume it has to be power supply, motherboard, or bios/software issue. Latest bios and ec are installed along with Windows 10 1803. Tech support asked about the power supply so I'm seeing if I can get them to send me a new one to rule out that.

 

What issues did you have? If they replaced the battery then you shouldn't have any battery-related issues so the root cause is perhaps something else?

 

This is what I had posted before:

"I have been looking around and haven't seen this issue mentioned. For some reason if I game on my GS65 when the battery charge is less than 100%, the full charge capacity will reset itself and computer will not charge any further. If I drain the battery down below "90%" so that it will charge again, the capacity will go back to normal. The battery indicator reads like it is fully charged but HWmonitor shows the full capacity is lower and that the battery has a high level of wear.

Just to clarify, the battery is not permanently worn. The battery only shows wear if I try to charge the computer when it is under load. For example, the battery will be at 70% charge and I will plug the computer in to start gaming. While I am gaming the computer will stop charging and read that it is at "100%". However, the battery really never charged at all, instead the capacity of the battery changes. This bug will not go away until I drain the battery to "90%" and charge it all the way to full again."

 

I guess we all missed that post from last time. There are two things to talk about from your experiences.
1. The battery drain behavior is normal since MSI offers performance boost by combining the power of AC & battery to system components. This feature is called power boost which cannot be turned off.
2. If battery has been drained while still above 90% then the system will not trigger a charge until it goes below 90%. There are actually multiple posts on the forum that talked about both power boost as well as battery protection.
Let us know if you have any questions, thank you.

 

That's not the problem, Ken
The problem is that battery is reporting a level of "72%!", after dropping 10%, and showing 24% battery wear, but it's not actually at 72%.

That's not normal.

 

I did get a similar response a couple weeks ago before sending out the computer but the situation with my computer is totally different than that. In this instance the battery is reporting 100% charge but it is actually at only 70% or 80% charge. Looking at HWmonitor shows that the battery incorrectly reports a 20-30% battery wear level. I apologize if i'm not explaining the problem well but I haven't seen anyone else describe the same behavior or experience the same problem. Here is a full example of the what happens to reproduce the problem:

1. I start with a fully charged battery that reports 100% (82,000 mWh in HWmonitor)
2. I use the computer until it is down to 80% battery (about 65,000 mWh)
3. I plug in the computer and start a game (usually battlefield 1 or steep)
4. About 5 minutes into playing the game the charging light will turn off and the battery will report 100% (82,000 mWh)
5. I restart the computer and check the battery level, Windows still says 100% battery, however, HWmonitor will show a level of 65,000 mWh and say that my battery is at 20% wear.
6. I unplug the computer and use it on battery until the level drops below "90%"
7. I plug the computer back in and charge it without playing any games
8. The computer charges to "100%" (65,000 mWh) and continues to charge until it finally reaches the real full capacity of (82,000 mWh)

It gets even stranger because this behavior does not happen if I charge while running stress tests like prime95 and furmark. It only happens when I charge while gaming.

 

I see, then this part is something else, so he has the same issue after battery had been replaced?

 

What if you fully discharge it, then have it fully recharged after? Power Boost seems harmful to your battery.

 

It's more that my battery will actually be at 72% (this is just an example %) but say that it's at 100%. The computer thinks that there is 28% battery wear when it's really not. It's like the full battery capacity resets to match my current battery level when I charge while gaming.

 

Yep, same issue after having the battery replaced. I was hoping battery was misreporting and a new one would fix it but that didn't work.

 

If I fully discharge and recharge it goes back to the correct capacity. However, the next time I play a game while charging the computer it will reset the capacity again.

 

The power boost may causes some kind of anomaly on the battery temporarily. I remember seeing other users with the same issue so you shouldn't need to concerned with it unless the wear level stays permanent.
Battery has 1-year warranty so you are covered. This *feature* (or annoyance to some) has been around for many years so it is nothing new. But if you don't like it and are usually stationary when you use the system you can actually disconnect the battery, or do the BIOS/EC mod to prevent power boost to function (some may be able to answer you with this).

 

Can anybody guide me how to do undervolting using throttlestop. I want to limit my CPU to 1.2GHz on battery mode. I tried using mutiplier for 12, but I can still see CPU going to 1.7 to 2.2 GHz. Thanks in advance.

 

Did you disable turbo boost?

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Not to beat a dead horse but I've attached a perfect image to show exactly what happens with the battery charge rates and capacity while I am gaming. Notice the sudden jump from 77.5% to 100% battery near the bottom. There are also several charge rate fluctuations. Thought it might be helpful to someone.

 

Yes and locked Non Turbo ratio to 0 as well. But it still goes up till 2.2 Ghz.

 

You can try limiting the Maximum CPU usage in Power Option, enter 50% and you should get 1.1GHz assuming you have disabled Turbo Boost.

 

You can try Hackness' guide for unlocking the 8750H and set it to be able to run a 800 and then just set your fixed FIVR to 1.2GHz

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

I did the same, still I am reaching 2.2 Ghz. Might be becuase my BIOS is not unlocked and I have not enables speed shift from there but from Throttlestop only.