*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

That gives me so much confidence. Hope applying thermal paste wouldn't make it much harder

 

Wow where did you get so much discount?

 

It's the same thing, you are already in there to apply the SSD.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Compare with a Clevo P750 series.

 

No one said it was super straightforward, but it's not insurmountable either.

I'm far from tech savvy. I did it without any trouble all the same.

 

I'm from Denmark, and the PC normally costs around 3000 dollars, and I got it for around 2500 dollars. The reason why it is so expensive in Denmark is because we have an extremely high sales tax! I got it from Komplett.dk

 

Sorry if this is not related.

a) If I set fans(GPU and CPU) lower than 35 regardless of silent option and dragon center they still run at rpm 1900+. Is it the same for you guys?

b) I am thinking to repaste my device. The option available in my country is Cooler Master MasterGel, Arctic Silver 5 & Arctic MX4. I do not want to use Liquid Metal. Which of the three would you guys suggest?

c) What is the difference between frame limiters and Nvidia whisper mode? which one do you recommend?

f) Since, I have uninstalled dragon option how do I set shift mode(comfort, eco, turbo)?

g) What do different modes in SCM do?

h)The machine came with a RAID0 configuration of NVME SSD would you recommend Intel rapid storage software uninstall? Also, if I ever format the system will it make changes to the configuration?

Thank you!

 

a. There's a minimum speed that the fan will run at, but it will still rev up when the temperature hits a threshold.
b. It can be hectic to do it on this system due to its compact size and be careful while working with ribbon cables as they are very fragile.
c. Frame limiter sets a limit with any graphics settings you have set which will not change throughout the game. Nvidia whisper mode adjusts graphics settings to keep fps within the preset limit.
f. You can't, you need it back.
g. MSI's own power plans, each with its own set of parameters and pre-defined settings.
h. If you remove Intel RST software you may lose Intel's controller driver and causes Windows to revert to generic driver. If you format the system everything's gone anyway so if you are asking about the BIOS it shouldn't change anything to it.

 

Hi!

This will be my first post since becoming a member on this forum. Before that I´ve been lurking here for tips to get my MSi GS65 Stealth Thin RF temps tamed, especially the cpu which gets quite hot. I thought I succeeded in that when I undervolted to 0.185 V (both core and cache), graphics to 0,052 V and reduced turbo ratio limits to 38...39 which results in mostly clocks of 3.77 GHz. I´ve seen temprature spikes up to 90 C while running strenous tasks but things are worse when in a game (playing fortnite results in pretty much constant 90 C). I havent really played games with the laptop until now even though I´ve owned it for a couple months because I haven´t simply had time.

Main reason I bought this laptop is for school which requires laptops that can run the programs we use such as autocad. I also wanted it for an occasional gaming sessions too so it seemed an obvious choice. I´ve tried everything I could think of except for repasting. I would very much like to keep my warranty intact so I´m unsure if it would be best to RMA since it would also make me "laptopless" which I´m against since I need this laptop for almost day to day use. Also the repair service that the seller offers isn´t in this country which makes the RMA process quite long. I´m already considering repasting this thing myself but unsure if it would make that much of a difrence. Liquid metal is a no go since I will be moving around and don´t want to short anything. How much would thermal grizzly kryonaut make a diffrence in temps? I would appreciate any advice/tips in regards of this dilemma I´m having.

ps. I tried to attach pictures but it didn´t work :|

Sincerely,
Desperate X

 

I haven't got the machine but from what I hear it's mostly 10-20℃

 

OK first of all, what fan Mode are you using? I've been told that "Auto" will crank those fans up to a max of 67%, which is in no way sufficient if those 6 Cores are under Stress.

You also could try this Guide from Hackness:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...trol-of-the-i7-8750h-advanced-version.823065/

I personally lowered the Turbo Boost ratio to "the more Cores are online, the lower the Max Speed".

so 4.1GHz 1Core
4 GHz 2 Cores
. . .
3.1 GHz 6 Cores

For my Games, this is still offering me more performance than I ever need, and my CPU temps never reach the 80°C mark.
So you could go this way too.
But for this to work, Core Parking must be active, or else it will just take the 6 Core max Turbo Boost ratio at all times.

 

It seems Dragon Center reseted my previous settings and the fans were on auto. It doesn´t change my situation though because tempratures were high even when I went back to my custom fan curve (84-86 C and occasional 90-92 C spikes which causes thermal throttling). Also comfort setting on dragon center lowers my fps to 30 and the game will be playable but low fps. When I choose sport or turbo I get better fps but bad tempratures. Does uninstalling dragon center affect throttliing somehow? I think I saw somewhere in this forum someone saying that it throttles the cpu?

Also about unlocking the bios, how can I get the key combo? Will it void my warranty? If it does then what if I go back to previous bios would there be any problems?

Thanks!

 

The Key Komb only activates for that "Session" the Administrator Mode, so no need to worry about voiding warranty, except if you bend over your System with that kind of an Access (Messing up Settings you shouldn't be touching).
The Comfort Mode disables GPU Boost clock. At least that's what I've read several times. But it shouldn't crash your fps that hard...
Also, Dragon center messes up with Bios settings that a normal User does not have access to.

I've had the best experience with setting the shift to "power options" (Dragon Center stopped fiddling around with my Bios settings with that, at least my settings didn't change) and pimping up the Windows Balanced mode (or create your own).
With every other shift, Dragon Center kept changing the powerplan to high performance, which forces the CPU to stay at max freq 24/7 (at least if you didn't modify it)

And the Bios... well there's not THAT much that you can do there... at least I personally have like 0 idea what most of those settings do, so I just followed Guides like that from Hackness.
If you're interested in fiddling there too, you should propably ask people like him, who will also warn you what setting to stay away from!

aand... well I aso got myself a Cooling pad, which also helps keeping those temps down under load.

 

Thank you for the reply!

Which mode do you recommend to set SCM to?

 

I have read multiple reviews (e.g. from Digital Foundry), and with the stock configuration, 90 C seems normal under heavy load. While it is evident that the CPU is throttling, the CPU does not go below the stock clock speed, and thus you should not see any noticable lag?
So as far as I understand, the problem is that you worry about the high temperatures, and not the performance. I would not worry because the machine is designed to run at these temperatures!
I have a Clevo P170EM PC, and it has always hit around 90 degrees when gaming, and it still runs after 6 years!

However, if the throttling causes lag, then I understand your frustation!

When I get my MS65 next week, I expect it to run this hot, but I also expect (and hope) I won't notice any lag in games.

 

For me it is about being straightforward. Or not. I work in the guts of rack servers all the time.
But I'm not going to work in the guts of my GS65 specfiically because it's not straightforward.

 

Thank you for your reply! I´ve managed to get the tempratures down somehow from (86 C - 92 C) to (76 C - 85 C). While temps might go above that (got 2 spikes of thermal throttle on xtu graph) it mostly stays below. I achived this by putting a higher speedshift value (69) while it was (0) previously. I´m not entirely sure what the values mean except that (0) means the laptop shifts the core clocks almost instantly which results in constant 3.77 GHz (it was 3.9 before dropping the turbo ratio limits) for me. This is playing fortnite fps capped at 160 and epic settings. Also I propped the laptop up from the desk to help with the air ciruculation.

Regarding the cooling pad, I found one with a single fan but I´m not sure I need it since I´ve seen people saying in forums that propping the laptop up achives the same thing and it´s not worth spending money on those.

I bought a new ssd since 512gb that came with this isn´t enough for me. I´ve seen videos of people opening the laptop so I think I can do it myself. I just have to be careful not to rip any wires while doing that. I´m thinking if I´m already opening it up I might as well re paste it but I´m unsure if the warranty will be intact if I do that. Does ripping the factory seal off mean that the warranty doesn´t apply anymore?

 

The Speedshift Value or EPP is like a "guideline" for the CPU frequency. A value of 0 (or 0% in the Windows Powerplan Settings if unlocked) means that your CPU should give a s*** about efficiency & temps and clock as high as possible -> Mostly used on Desktop Computers (or High Performance Power plan)

A value of 127 (50% Windows) is more suited for "notebooks", as it lets the CPU hover in the mid frequency area

And a Value of 255 (100%) is the exact opposite of 0, as it cripples the CPU as good as it can. (I think the ECO shift also uses this value, as my GS65 becomes unresponsive af if activated). This is mostly "suited" for Ultrabooks.

Of course you can play around and pick the best suited for you, or even make profiles with different values. The EPP value sees the max turbo clock as the "max speed", not the max base clock!

But Windows own EPP setting is fighting with the Throttlestop EPP setting, so to get the best experience, you should set for both the same values. (This is also explained in Hackness Guide " How to take full control of the i7-8750H (Advanced version)")


I thought about upgrading my System in the future with more RAM and a 2nd NVMe too, but I also have no idea whether breaking the seal voids warranty. In the US it's actually illegal to void warranty because of a broken sticker,
but no idea what the case in other countries is. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in? Or you just ask msi (and tell us what they say )

 

Hi everyone,

So, I've finally got my GS65 from MSI back. Everything is working fine, no crash anymore under heavy load and temperatures stay around 86oC-88oC when playing FFXV or compiling huge projects (30+ minutes, 12 threads).

But, I think they forgot to connect some cable in the notebook as neither Windows nor Linux recognizes the lid being closed. Do you know which cable controls that? I'm going to fix it myself, I can't wait another 3 weeks for them to fix it.

 

Hello everyone,

I've just ordered an MSI GS65 from Gentech PC with repasting and thermal pads. I'm looking at undervolting the laptop as well and I've seen 2 different programs for this. Intel XTU and ThrottleStop. Is there any advantage to using one vs the other? I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of this laptop will ensuring the max lifespan of the components as this was a "treat yourself" purchase for me. I'm new to a lot of these concepts but I've done a lot of research and think I have a solid handle on the basics but any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Also, does anyone have personal experience working with Gentech? They have great reviews and seem to do awesome work but I would love y'alls input here as well.

Thanks!

 

@Kevin@GenTechPC 's a very friendly guy and helps a lot of people over here on these forums.
Kevin is an outstanding guy on the technical side. Including giving help with flashing bios chips with SPI programmers and other things.

On the other end of the reseller side (HIDevolution, Prema partner shop), @Donald@HIDevolution is just as outstanding and helpful, but he isn't a tech person, he handles sales. He's the guy who keeps the ship afloat and running and keeps some civility around here. He's old school, doing things in a professional way that went the way of the dodo when everyone and their momma started staring at their cellphones blind while walking down the sidewalk. Class act. When he's gone, there will be very few people left capable of doing the awesome job he did.

 

Great, thanks for the response. I'm stoked to get my hands on this machine

 

Hello PaxAuT, both are great tools to do undervolt. Also, I can help you to undervolt your system for you once you get it. Can you PM or email me your order number?

 

Hey Kevin thanks for the follow up, I'm a new member so I cannot send PMs yet. Can you shoot me your email via PM? Thanks!

 

Hey Kelvin I had some question regarding the GS65 model sold by GenTechPC can we discuss about that? I'm having a hard time making the decision because of it. Thank you!

 

You can email me at [email protected], or [email protected], thanks.

 

Replied to your PM.

 

Hey Kevin just shot you an email with the details. Thanks!

 

Hello, I bought P65 with 1050ti. I havent repasted yet since im waiting for 970 evo im adding, and I dont want to disassemble more than I need to. I have started undervolting with XTU though, and right now im at -0,150 which seems stable. I have a couple of questions:

- The core1 temp MAX is 92c. Core 6 is 79c max. Is this because of a convex cooling system? I bought Grizzly Kryonaut, but I might have to buy a thicker paste ?
- Power limit is my biggest consern at the moment, since I expect better temps after repasting. I get power limit throttling by using the cpu-stresstest in xtu. Ive set the "turbo boost power max" to 60w. Can tweaking this setting prevent power limit throttling?

 

1) Your undervolt is too high, just because you didn't see any crashes *yet* doesn't mean it's fully stable. I would go anywhere between -80mV to -100mV to stay on the safe side.
2) Kryonaut is the worst thermal paste I've ever used.

See:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut.790919/page-10#post-10261106

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-before-i-start.741745/page-65#post-10249996

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...iquid-metal-paste.812596/page-2#post-10660500


I'd get Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut and see your temps go down drastically.

If j00 don't wanna use liquid metal, then IC Diamond is a better option than Kryonaut.

as for the power limits I can't advice you on that s I'm not familiar with your CPU but on my laptop with the 8905HK, the default 550 VR Current Limit which MSI chose causes my CPU to throttle, upping that to 800 (which means 200A as it appears in XTU) prevents the throttling. [remember, the value in BIOS is divided by 4 that's why I set it to 800 but in XTU what you set is what you get]

 

Thank you for the quick reply. Why do you think it is too high with -0.150? https://www.reddit.com/r/laptops/comments/8kij4p/msi_gs65_hot_games_cool_temps_and_you_a_guide/
it seems like more people than me are able to run at these values?

 

I'm not saying that it's a 100% not ok. Just saying my personal preference is to stay within safer undervolt limits. Remember, the more you undervolt, the more instability you bring to the table. You can run it like this for a while and if you don't get any random reboots or freezes or data corruption while copying anything from one drive to the other, then you can continue to run it that way. Your first priority right now is to change that thermal paste to either Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut OR if you go with the IC Diamond, then paste it using the X Cross method (only do this method for non metal thermal pastes).

The X Cross method is the best in my experience as once the heatsink is fitted, it provides the maximum coverage with the least air bubbles

 

Im not taking the chance on LM at this point. I see that as my last "way out". I will try IC Diamond, but my concern is that core 6 is often more than 10c higher than core 1. Is IC Diamond a thicker paste?
In XTU, under "Processor Core IccMax" the value is set to 128A - is this the setting that you would put to 200A in XTU?

 

IC Diamond is one of the thickest pastes. The difference in cores usually means an uneven thermal paste application or uneven heatsink in which you'll want to get a replacement heatsink.

yes that's the setting, change it to 160A for now and see if you get throttling while still monitoring your temps as they might go higher due to the fact that the CPU is not throttling. If it still throttles, take it up to 200A. The CPU will only pull what it need so no harm there.

 

Hey I literally just ordered my GS65 today and chose to have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut instead of Conductnaut! Cuz I heard that liquid metal reacts with the heatsink and has to be repasted every a few months. And I thought that would be some real disadvantage given GS65 is so hard to tear down. This is the thread I looked at http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-works-why-it-fails-and-how-to-use-it.809332/

 

My CPU constantly hits 90 deg and thermal throttles on black ops 4. Is this normal?

undervolted to -.145 and turbo boost is off

 

Where are you ordering it from? If you are ordering it from HIDevolution then they have their proprietary method of applying Liquid Metal so it won't spill and it is covered under warranty any way. I wouldn't use Kryonaut even if you paid me, it works great the first week then watch your temps go down every day to the point where you can't use your laptop anymore without it overheating a lot.

Liquid Metal when applied properly is the best solution for cooling and it has lasted me always for the life of my laptop and never needed re-pasting.

Just my 2 cents.

 

What thermal paste do you have on? did you undervolt your CPU? If not, then you should.

Also, please fill in your signature details so people can give you better assistance specific to your machine/configuration/specs.

Feel free to copy/paste my signature as a template then edit it to match your laptop's specs.

 

Curious. I've also heard the reversed answer that liquid metal is annoying and sometimes destructive while normal thermal paste last for several years...Things are getting more and more confusing now

 

Maybe @Papusan or @Mr. Fox can chime in and help you make up your mind

 

I have the bestbuy model with the 1070 max Q. No repaste. It's stock and undervolted to -.150 with xtu

 

Are you comfortable repasting it yourself?

 

Nope. 90c with turbo boost of is awful.

If heatsink is uneven/warped or with bad fits on die. A bad choice. Opposite if the heatsink is perfect (will last +2 years and longer). Nothing beats Liquid metal if you have a good heatsink.

 

umm—— but how do I know whether I have a perfect heatsink? I guess that's kind of gamble due to the individual differences between laptops of the same model

 

I maybe wrong, but as far as I understood from previous is post is that you may know indirectly if your heatsinks has imperfections if you have greater temperature differentials between cores.

Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

 

That means I have to first receive the laptop, examin the heatsink, then decide whether using liquid metal is a good choice right? Since I'm buying from GenTechPC who will be pasting for me, I guess avoiding liquid metal is still a safer choice?

 

It's trial and errors. Best is to use pressure sensitive film (damn expensive) to check the contact between die and heatsink. Thin thermal paste/cream work as well for checking this. And not forget to check thermal pads have correct thickness on the components (Too thick will raise the heatsink from the die).

 

I feel there's some higher level stuff going on, I'll probably try it out if the kryonaut plan doesn't work

 

Nope, never done before. Most I did was flip the mb to install nvme drive

Dammit... should I RMA it? Is there anything I could have done to cause this when I flipped the MB to install the NVME drive? Not a fan of having to flip it again

Also to clarify I turned off turbo boost short power max, not the turbo boost. should I lower the turbo boost W? I turned it down to 30W from 45W and it's slightly better. only power limit throttling

 

Should never need cripple power limits. Maybe you warped the heatsink fits (flimsy and thin model) or it was like this from the beginning. RMA it.