The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

@Shehary

Isn't there a steel wool pad included for cleaning? Maybe some steel wool will get that burnished area clean?

 

He will need a prema EC / Bios mod for the 16L1. But I dont know how he would get that except from a prema partner reseller.

Otherwise, get a clear screenshot of his RW Everything EC window and post it somewhere so I can view it, and identify what videocard he's using. How is he limited to 230W? is he using a 1070 or something? If there is a variant of the 16L1 with a 330W PSU (GTX 1080), then it should be easy IF the same base EC firmware is used. How does he have a 16L1 with a GTX 1070, anyway?

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BTW Offset 42 is apparently the "battery charge %" in hexadecimal. 64 is the maximum value and is equal to 100%. (16x6+4=100).
But this value can't be written if the battery is actually inserted. It will just get overwritten. The reason I said to "write 5C" if the battery is disconnected is writing any value seems to tell the EC (but not windows) that the battery check is present (or passed); 5C is actually 92%. But this only seems to do something if the battery charge circuit (Offset 31) is not set to 00.

I still am going to have to deal with--or NOT deal with--one more problem, that is, hybrid being disabled (causing reduced system power limit-probably the exact same limit as when the battery is disconnected) and power throttling if the battery is less than 30% charge. That might be hard or impossible to fix, because you do not want to mess with the battery circuit incorrectly if it's actually plugged in, so I might not even bother with such a silly situation. If your battery is <30% and you want full AC power without hybrid limit throttling, disconnect the battery and just change offsets 31 and 42. I do not want to mess around with the battery registers to try to make it draw full AC power at <30% battery (if changing offset E4 to 91 isn't enough), and then wind up blindly changing something that DISCONNECTS THE AC CIRCUIT and allows the battery to draw 150W.....byebye laptop...(and before someone says I'm crazy, I already managed to accidentally disconnect the AC circuit for 5 seconds, then it reconnected, and when I unplugged the AC, BD Prochot got forced on at ANY load and CPU was locked to 800 mhz.

If you want full AC power at <30% battery, you can mod yourself and do it on your own. Having full AC power with a disconnected battery is more important.

 

nopes, in Grizzly Conductonaut, only 70% alcohol swabs....

 

I've let my lil bro use my laptop he went to bios and selected sdd disks 2x256 both to non raid now I can't boot to Windows after restart only back to bios any ideas what's wrong? @Phoenix @Falkentyne
Just don't tell me he erased all my disks lol

 

Make sure your BIOS is set to RAID if you had them setup in RAID mode or AHCI if you had them setup as single drives.

The other possibility is he recreated the RAID array which wiped both SSDs so your laptop is FUBAR.

In that case you have to.......

1) Windows 10 - Bloatware Free Edition

2) MSI GT73VR 7RF TITAN PRO Drivers

3) Windows 10 Tweaks and Fixes (Index post #1)

Reminder: Never lend your taptop to ANYONE

 

I'll tried it doesn't work still bootloop I've got a recovery but I'm gonna do clean install thanks bro

 

Your brother after you confront him with what he did........

 

Ok Removing AC throttle with battery <30% is impossible. All the battery registers become read only or something if the battery is connected. Just disconnect the battery, or let it charge past 30%. It's probably ONE register controlling the same exact throttle (battery <30% and battery disconnected). The reason the battery disconnected register write works is because they are set to 00 and then writable without changing, while if the battery is connected, they get updated live, ignoring what you try to set it to.

The hybrid throttle will remain in effect until the battery has reached either 80% or 90% (not sure which). One trick which works is writing value of 5B (91%) through 63 (99%) into register 42, AFTER the battery has reached 30%, as this tricks the EC into thinking the battery has reached high enough charge to disable the hybrid throttle flag, even though the value gets re-written and reverts (someone else mentioned that you can just power off the laptop then unplug and replug AC, but I can't verify that now).

The next time I'm under 30% and I let it charge past 30%, I'm going to write 63 into register 42 and see if any other register changes permanently.

 

Downloading now, also how can I check product key set for this noob question can I find in in recovery flash disk? Also can I burn this win on dvd as well or its recommended on flash stick thx

 

1) I am assuming you had Windows 10 Home before soo... when installing Windows 10 using the Bloatware Free Edition ISO, choose Home Edition, the moment you go online, your machine will be activated automatically.

2) Follow the guide I posted, and make a USB Flash Disk using RUFUS then boot off it

3) After Windows is setup, during the initial setup wizard screen when it shows j00 the available networks, DO NOT connect to any of them, click SKIP on the bottom left otherwise you will be forced to login using a Micro$h4ft account AND since you are online, it will automatically install most of the drivers for you from the Windows updates which you should never do, only connect to the internet after installing all the drivers so I suggest you download them on another computer and put them on a different USB Flash Disk to install first

3) For future reference, if you wanna know what's the product key injected in your BIOS......

To find out your Windows 10 Product key so you can use it to activate Windows:


Download RWEverything and launch it as admin


Click on ACCESS > ACPI Tables


Then go to the MSDM Tab:






Do not worry, Phoenix is with j00

MSI Gaming Team FTW!

 

Lool cheers man appreciate it yeah I have everything on HDD that wasn't touched so it should be there after I install win gonna do exactly as u say thx

 

70% alcohol/isopropanol aint good enough for removing LM(The alcohol wipes in the Grizzly Conductonaut package is more intended for cleaning your older ordinary thermal paste before you go with LM). Even with the best cleaner out there cant remowe all LM. Lapping is needed.

From my older post regarding recommendation of Indigo Extreme Cleaner... From the test of EK-Indigo Extreme metal tim...

(Translated as good I can)

"The cleaning agent EK is powerful and smells tight - but it's effective. Just see how dirty our cloth was, on a processor that was already washed with isopropanol, a detergent that's usually is good enough."

 

Just got an email from MSI's repair depot, and they can't figure out how to make the easily, highly repeatable white screen issue appear - even though I wrote it all out for them.

Sigh. I've got a feeling that I'm going to have to take them to small claims court to get this resolved.

 

Are they using your AC adapter or THEIR AC adapter?

 

Hi guys ! I have a GT73VR 7RE ! I live in Dublin Ireland and Im looking for fan replacement cpu & gpu ! Any ideas were can I find them ? Google doesn't say anything! Thank you !

 

why you wana replace CPU / GPU fans ?

you cannot get CPU / GPU fans from any other source other than MSI, you need to contact MSI Support.

 

No clue, but I bought another and it hasn't helped. Nor the new drives that I tried.

I responded and quoted my previous email, and further suggested that they turn off sleep mode and transfer ~1TB of game files (not just several "large files" like they tried) over a period of several hours like I had spelled out in the previous email.

 

Yo I've done a clean install as u instructed I was getting this problem all the time it's when I want to install a second driver VGA it always shows me this pc doesn't meet minimum requirements... Is it ok just skip it and use Nvidia? Thx

 

That's because you need to switch to the integrated graphics first using the button on the right otherwise how do you expect it to install a driver for a component that is not active

 

Button doesn't work :// nothing happens when I press it

 

It is a MUX switch. You have to press it, then reboot.

 

Install SCM first dude (System Control Manager) then reboot

 

Thanks father phoenix!

 

You mean Brother Phoenix. You see, he's a monk of Michael Phelps...see? And he helped me crack the AC power limits, see?

 

@GENOCID Then, each time you want to switch between iGPU and dGPU, press the button and reboot.

 

Can also unlock the Switchable Graphics + System Agent submenu's of your bios. Then you can do it without software. It may also be possible to have the iGPU powered on with the dGPU's using some of the SA configuration tools, not that it'd be useful

 

Wonder if the "Auto" peg port 1 black screen bug is fixed...I just set it to enabled but still...

 

thanks for every member helped me doing repaste for CPU and GPU. the results are much way better than i expected.
I used Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra for CPU and IC Diamond 7 Carat for GPU as recommended.
I changed the thermal pads as well.
Before, when i use turbo mode which overclock the CPU to 100 degrees while playing NFS, now i overclock to 4.2 and the maximum i can see is 73 or 74 degrees and if i keep the dafault overclock to 4, i see only 67 MAX.
BEFORE







BUT NOW








Thank you so much

 

Change your ICCMax to 200 Amps. The default 75 amps is actually low enough to cause throttling in real world applications.

 

@Phoenix i really like urs clean windows btw is there any chance to add a search back to the start menu? ive done most of the tweaks difference is huge thx

btw ive done some test this one was on stock volts but with a fan boost on

 

Install Classic Shell. Problem solved

 

Uninstalled DCC and had a crack at OC'ing using Intel Extreme Tuning.

My system is stable and seems ok. Could you guys have a quick look at my settings and check I haven't made any dumb mistakes, thanks.
Any suggestions gratefully received. :0)

 

thx and what about original win 10 start look with a search is that something to do with cortana thats why or something else sry man for noob questions

 

I see no problems here.

If you have access to the unlocked Bios (whether you make it yourself with sirgeorge's instructions, or have Svet mod it for you for a donation), you should set spread spectrum (under Intel ICC) to 0% and then forcibly enable Peg Port 1 (under system agent) to avoid the silly black screen issues when changing from iGPU to dGPU.

 

That search won't work since the Digital Virus named Cortana is disabled. I cannot even look at the stock Windows Start Menu without puking...

Use Classic Shell then import this XML file for the best setting which makes it look very similar to Windows 7 = Phoenix's Classic Shell Menu Settings

 

Thanks guy, that's good to know.

Never really done any OC'ing before. :0)

 

Yooo mean...

 

@Phoenix i might figure out why browsing was slow because nod was blocking unwanted certificate but i dont know what can cause this what do you think? my time and date is set up correctly

Secure Connection Failed

An error occurred during a connection to http://www.mozilla.org. The OCSP response contains out-of-date information. Error code: SEC_ERROR_OCSP_OLD_RESPONSE

The page you are trying to view cannot be shown because the authenticity of the received data could not be verified.
Please contact the website owners to inform them of this problem.

 

Please help . if anyone has a logo oem msi that appears on the logo properties / this pc ?

 

Hi All my system is reporting that there is a problem with the PIC-PCI Bridge driver could any one help and tell me what this is please?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

Might need this information also. I have tried to look myself but just don't know what it is

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

That's Thunderbolt controller. Try changing the driver.

 

Thank you, would you be able to recommend an appropriate driver?

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

MSI GT73VR 7RF TITAN PRO Drivers

 

I did actually try those drivers but still having the same problem hence why I asked for a recommendation sorry. Either way I think it is a hardware issue so returning to mis to fix

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

Go to Device Manager, remove the device and delete software driver while doing it.

 

Reading these limitations with tv

@Phoenix I'm second doubting my purchase because it comes with a hm 175 and downgraded e2400 and I don't like what these guys are saying in the overclocking potential of the hm175.
I'm looking at the GT73VR 7re. Do you think the older cm 236 is an ok sub for the cm 238?

 

Cm236 is on skylake
cm238 is on kaby lake.
Why can't you buy from HidEvolution and get the guaranteed 7820HK and CM238?

 

I think when it comes down to overclocking, it all boils down to your luck with the Silicon Lottery and having a system builder that knows how to apply thermal paste properly... trust me...I've seen some poor thermal paste jobs that are a joke

On my CM238 with a 7820HK I can do 4.2 GHz on all cores and +150 MHz GPU Core and 300 MHz GPU Mem 24/7 easily with Liquid Ultra on the CPU and IC Diamond on the GPU BUT with that said, you can get the same setup and end up with worse results.

Why don't you ask them to overclock your taptop and stress test it to see what are the temps are like if they can do that

 

I've talked to Donald and he told me they were sold out for 2 - 3 months ago. He also told me that MSI came out with a "refresh" model and that's the chip they put in so I'm not sure what to do really. I saw a 7820hk but it came with a cm236 so im confused now.