The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

And I cant find the Realtek high definition audio manager in control panel(where should let me choose whether I am using headphone or speaker

 

Hmmm, and you tried different applications, different sources internally, browser youtube, itunes, DVD player, etc?

I've seen apps that you have to restart or refresh the browser page when switching between headphones and speakers, and when making changes in the sound panel.

If the speakers are selected and the green bar is showing audio, the speakers should be working.

What is strange is all the speakers aren't working, that's why I'm thinking audio isn't getting routed correctly in the app you are using to test, so exit it and restart it, even log out / log in again - or reboot.

 

Did you reboot between uninstall / install?

The Realtek / Nahimic install is particular on the order it's done.

Uninstall Nahimic, reboot, uninstall Realtek, reboot, install Realtek, reboot, install Nahimic, reboot.

Also make sure the versions you are using are the paired together package versions that MSI has to download in the support area. I've had problems when installing newer Realtek versions - Nahimic stops working.

 

Yes, the installer will automatically restart after uninstall.

Actually, when the install is in progress, I can find multiple speakers choice in the Sound panel as shown by Ivan. And choosing one of them could make the speaker work.
But after the installation finished, they disappear and only one remain(the one shown as speaker but is headphone indeed) .

 

By the way, the one shown as Headphone always says unconnected even I am using headphone now.

 

This is all sounding (pun intended) like a Windows 10 / Nahimic / Realtek compatibility issue around the update / versions.

I guess complain to MSI that they need to update the support download for Nahimic / Realtek with ones compatible with the "current" state of Windows 10 updates?

You might check the GT75 or other MSI laptop support areas for newer paired versions of Nahimic / Realtek - usually one spot gets updated before all the others. Newer model laptops get priority.

 

hmm. Do you have any sound drivers installed besides Realtek one. If you some drivers for headphones or something delete and try then.

 

I installed the newer one from GT75's page, but it doesnt work .

 

No, only the realtek

 

What are the Nahimic / Realtek versions in the GT73 support area you used vs the versions in the GT75 area?

IDK it's kinda starting to sound (sorry) like your speaker amp died... or there is something else going on with the headphone socket - short or failure. Or, it's still a Windows 10 update / version incompatibility, and MSI (Realtek/Nahimic) need to push updates.

Never any problem or odd behavior before now?

 

Actually, as I said, after uninstall and rebooting, when the install is in progress, I can find multiple speakers choice in the Sound panel as shown by Ivan. And choosing one of them could make the speaker work. But after the installation finished, they disappear and only one remain(the one shown as speaker but is headphone indeed) .

I also tried to roll back the driver in device manager, then it roll back from the current 6.0.1.8172 back to 6.0.1.8328, (so the old one seems to be newer? WTF is this update system?)

 

Actually, as I said, after uninstall and rebooting, when the install is in progress, I can find multiple speakers choice in the Sound panel as shown by Ivan. And choosing one of them could make the speaker work. But after the installation finished, they disappear and only one remain(the one shown as speaker but is headphone indeed) .

I also tried to roll back the driver in device manager, then it roll back from the current 6.0.1.8172 back to 6.0.1.8328, (so the old one seems to be newer? WTF is this update system?)

 

The only odd behavior is the window asking whether I plugged in a headphone doesn't show up when I plug in it, which is the reason that I update the driver.

 

The updates can go by date and by version number, it can get confusing if someone pushes an older version number with a newer creation date.

Trying to change things as the uninstall / install is happening usually is a bad idea, as things are uninstalled / installed the interim state isn't stable.

I don't think I can help you any more than I have, contact MSI support and work with them.

 

That's a sign that the Windows 10 update caused a compatibility issue, and that is what started the problem, which you can't solve with available versions of Nahimic / Realtek, so all you can do is to contact MSI and let them know what happened.

 

OK

OK, I am gonna left my audio device disable for several days.
Sometimes the windows updater will fix the problems by itself.
Otherwise I have to go to the MSI support.

Thank you so much

 

When you pull off the HS, take snapshots of both CPU and HS without cleaning the thermal paste and post here, if you will notice the thermal paste on HS, the area with more paste have week contact where the area has less paste has better contact, this is the area you have to work on (the area which has less paste) to make it even with the area of HS which has week contact (more paste), hope you are not using sand paper wrapped on your finger.

You can try the spread method before going for another lap but it will not make a huge difference, give it a try though.

 

I need urgent help, my MSI GT73VR is trolling me. Even when hooked to the AC adapter the memory of the GTX1070 will stay at 810mhz, so I have to play at 30fps or lower. I understand this can happen when playing in battery mode, but right now the battery is at 100% and connected to the AC adapter, so the memory speed should be normal (4000 mhz I think).

Thank you in advance.

 

did you check your power plan, if using Dragon Center, try to switch to Sport or Turbo Mode.

 

Yes, it is in Sport mode, and even if I change to Turbo Mode the memory speed doesn't change. The rest of the speeds are Ok though (CPU over 3Ghz and GPU clock 1442 mhz).

Yesterday it was working fine, so I don't know sometimes it just starts to do such strange things.

EDIT: After restarting it seems to work fine again. When I'm in the desktop it underclocks to low clocks but when I get into a game it just works fine again. Might be a bug from the drivers or something like this?

 

3rd day after repaste.
i went ran aida for few minits however temps went up a bit from 4 to 6-7c but im still happy with it. cinebench done on auto fans.
the only thing that i did as well and forgot to mention is i properly polished hs with coffe filter paper and 90% alc i mean i cleaned it as much as possible until absolutly shiny. dont know if that had an effect but i see on sunday what temps gonna look like. i see after 3 days +3c in hotter cores. when i see above 10c in a week gonna sand it down

 

Next time you run Cinebench, decreace the Polling Frequency in Hwinfo settings. 1000 or lower. Post pict of Hwinfo right before test is finished + afterwards. As well with forced max fans + the usual auto.

 

6C core temp difference with AVX is not bad.
Cleaning the heatsink surface is critical.
You have direct die contact.
I know the ONLY people who trust me here are Master @Papusan and @Shehary but you need to remember that IHS CPU is not the same as bare die contact.
With bare die contact, it is absolutely CRITICAL to have as much surface contact on the die as possible. With an IHS, the IHS is already spreading the heat, so when a heatsink touches the IHS and there are defects, there is still enough heat being "spread out" to compensate for defects in warping/blemishes, etc.
When you have direct die contact, any defects whatsoever will cause core temp differences, which are amplified by small space+concentrated temps (the cpu cores are smaller than the silicon package):

See where the cores are??



Already past my 2nd day after better sanding, and still 1C temp differences with AVX.
And this is with blow up the CPU AVX small FFT testing at 4.4 ghz 1.178v, and non AVX testing at 4.7 ghz 1.270v.


Side note: can anyone run 4.7 ghz AVX small FFT without the laptop instantly shutting off and powering back on in half a second? @Papusan seems like there's some hardcoded amps current limit protection going on. I can draw 115W in cinebench at 4.9 ghz 1.350v....but 4.7 ghz with AVX small FFT prime? NOPE! System shuts off INSTANTLY as soon as I press "GO"....instantly....

 

It's supposed to do that, to save burning up the power and heating up your GPU unnecessarily. The desktop 3D requirements don't need the GPU at full performance.

There is a setting in Nvidia Control Panel 3D Global / 3D Program setting to stop this behavior, change the Power Management Mode from Adaptive to Prefer Maximum Performance, there might be other newer options too, investigate their definition, but Prefer Maximum Performance will keep the GPU clocked high after leaving a game.

I don't recommend leaving GPU 3D Power Management Mode set to Prefer Maximum Performance as it really does burn up power and keep the GPU hot. MSI DGC might override this setting, so be aware. I run without DGC and use Intel XTU + MSI Afterburner + RTSS + Windows Power control. Others add MSI Silent Option for fan control, but I've had good luck with the auto fan controls except when I run long batch jobs then I use 100% fan's.

 

Hello guys,

sanding number 2. I took a lot of pictures ( @Falkentyne ). Results ok if stays like this. I used spread method with credit card. First pictures before sanding then after sanding how HS look like and bunch of test. I think is flat enough now.

PART 1

 

PART II

 

Cinebench test

 

Very nice work @Ivan994! That heatsink looks even better than mine.
Very nice Ivan!

What thermal paste are you using?

If you are using NT-H1 and it gets worse, do what @Papusan says and try something thicker like Coolermaster Gel Nano.
I bought NT-H1 myself but haven't even opened the tube.

I actually ordered a tube of Coolermaster Gel Nano yesterday, which will arrive tomorrow, although i currently don't have any use for it since everything is LM'd, except my desktop 2600k CPU.
I even have LM on my r9 290X. I may wind up putting the Gel Nano on my 2600k however (right now I have Phobya Nanogrease Extreme on it).

I think one of the issues of your degradation is due to the much higher VID.
Looking at the VID range, your VID is ranging from 1.150v to 1.279v. From what I've seen about IA AC DC loadline and how it works,
Your CPU is probably putting about 1.25v at full load, if the AVX offset voltage (according to overclock.net) is 30mv over standard voltage.

If you were using liquid metal compound (with a lapping job that well done, I would highly suggest going all in and buying some Conductonaut later on @Ivan994 ), you would probably have 1-2C core temp differences.

 

Thank you very much ! I gave my all I was using NT-H1. I will try some different paste because I can not do lapping better than this. Why I have so high VID? That is stock VID I mean, why they put it so big?

 

6820HK remember?
6820HK is skylake die (6700K).
This was the CPU that was famous for getting 90C on desktops when it came out.
Skylake was the "hotwell" of Kabylake, like Hotwell (Haswell) was hot compared to Devil's Canyon.

You could try to reduce the VID, but I would have to tell you how to do that via PM.
You would also have to do stress testing and check "windows event viewer"-->System logs for "WHEA correctable errors" also, and be prepared to deal with BSOD crashes until you find where you are stable.

Good 6820Hk samples can run 4.4 ghz 24/7 on liquid metal cooling only. 7820HK is 3 speed bins higher than 6820HK, so a good 7820HK chip can run 4.7 ghz 24/7 on LM cooling.

I have already seen TWO 7820k chips that cannot exceed 4.3 ghz no matter how much voltage you pour into them; @Arestavo 's chip, and another person who had a dog chip that would barely be stable at 4.2 ghz.

Since 7820HK is jokebook turd BGA CPU @Papusan and is at least 3 speed bins below 7700K, 7700K can usually do 5 ghz on LM cooling when delidded, or higher.

Anyway since i'm in a good mood, gotta ask someone again:
Anyone here able to do 4.7 ghz *AVX* prime95 small FFT's without the laptop INSTANTLY shutting off and rebooting (literally instant) as soon as you even press start in prime95?

Look: 1C core temp difference at 4700 mhz 1.270v, IA AC DC loadline=5
AVX disabled. Just ran this right now (i was writing this post from my desktop when running it).



Yet if I enable AVX...small FFT's...the laptop just shuts off instantly and reboots...?
4.4 ghz AVX= 1.178v (like last screenshot 2 posts ago: no problem).
Also 3500 mhz 1.270v no problem. But 4700 mhz 1.270v avx (small fft)=doesn't want any part of it.
@Papusan save me

 

Great work, nice core temp differentials, and if you pushed down and tightened your screws completely, you shouldn't need to open it up again...

Did you undervolt? Out of the box stock the BIOS's for these and other laptops overvolt the CPU to an averaged value that is higher than the worst case CPU, so that everyone has a nice - if not warm CPU - day.

Try -100mV to start at stock speeds, then go from there, many have -150mV as daily driver stable, some even higher. -15mV @ 4.5ghz was doable, -40mV @ 4.2ghz, less undervolt available at higher clock speeds, more undervolt available at lower clock speeds. The 7820HK does much better than the 6820HK both on undervolt and OC.

After all that work, undervolting should be a nice break, it's all software, no screwdrivers required. And, with at least -100mV you could see a 10C drop in 4x 100% CPU load temps at stock speeds, less at higher clock speeds with less undervolt.

Again, Good Work!

 

Yes. I do not need more than 4 GHz. I just ask temp difference smaller than 10 C and cpu under 80 C with 4 GHz. Nothing more

 

I tried, with -100mv instant reset I can do only -30 mv Then I back to stock because there is no difference

 

It's enough for now that you have what you have, there are years of ownership to explore undervolting, and other CPU / GPU tuning.

I had a Haswell that would only do -15mV at stock speeds instead of the usual -70mV, but after 18 months of persistence it was stable at -50mV - something to do when you have a few minutes and are bored.

You can only do -30mV at 4ghz? That's a lot better than -15mV. There is still room between -30mV and -100mV to explore over time improvements too, someday.

Have fun.

 

Thank you! I will try to do a little bit more, but last time when i tried -30 on 4 GHz was max.

 

@Falkentyne What do you think to try this paste? I can buy it tomorrow in store. http://www.mkracunari.rs/cooler-master-pasta-ic-essential-e1

 

Terrible paste.
Thermal Conductivity >4.5 W/m-K
Get Gel Nano instead.
BTW i edited my last post. Did you see it? Posted screenshots of 4.7 ghz test done a few minutes ago.
@Papusan @Ivan994
I wish I could crack this amps overcurrent protection. I know some desktop boards have VRM protection override, but not in the Bios. EC is preventing something, may be hardcoded. 4800 mhz @ 1.31v in Stockfish chess engine works (1.30v=WHEA errors, 1.29v=BSOD).

 

Same with http://www.ocbase.com/index.php/49-occt-pro-4-5-2-available or Aida64 (FPU) with 4.7GHz?

Voltage don't kill the paste. It's the Heat or the better words WATTAGE (High-low-high-low).

 

I just saw, very nice. That Lm is beast, I just do not need that for 4 GHz CPU What about this paste? Is this gel nano? https://www.gigatron.rs/hladnjaci_i...alna_pasta_mastergel_pro__mgyossgn15mr1-87715

 

OCCT small data set will cause the laptop to shutoff and restart even at 4.5 ghz (1.178v)! It either 1) gives an error in a few seconds, 2) restarts after a little time.
If I increase voltage, just restarts

OCCT large data set is fine.
AIDA64=fine.

Funny enough:
OCCT PSU test draws 320W at 4.5 ghz and runs forever (doesn't shutoff).

 

No, that is old paste.
This is newer and better. 11w/mk.
Might just be called "Gel Nano" or "Nano".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BZENY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Lines/thermal-compound/

Then try 4.6GHz

 

Maybe this is what you want.
https://www.eteknix.com/cooler-master-mastergel-maker-nano-review/

@Papusan ? @Ivan994
It's nano he wants, right?
@Papusan 4.6 ghz OCCT PSU test nonono. im too scared of torturing my turdbook and making it shut off again right now

 

Whatever your next paste is, please consider running on NT-H1 until it *needs* repasting, so we get some in the field reports on how it works in 2018 on laptops.

NT-H1 could last weeks, months, years, and in the end, isn't that what you are trying to accomplish? Acceptable temperatures with long term stability?

You've got good results right now, enjoy what you have and try to resist dropping that bone and going for the bone in the reflection.

 

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/

Nope. I mean't for this

 

I have that good results today but it was always like that. Than tomorrow get worse and then 3 days after I have again 20 C difference

 

To buy maker not nano?

 

It's really odd that you expect that to happen, and even stranger - it keeps happening to you...

The GT73 seems to be tough to disassemble, re-paste, and put back together again successfully for newbies.

Probably best to not start a re-paste in the first place.

As long as you have a good result with NT-H1, please give it - and apparently, the next paste(s), some time to have a chance to perform longer than a few hours...

 

How much I am trying to fix this I am becoming PRO I just bought this https://www.gigatron.rs/hladnjaci_i...a_pasta_mastergel_maker__mgzndsgn15mr1-111319 and I will let Noctua for about 2 week to see if is going to be any difference

 

Phew! I read that as COOLER MASTER Termalna pasta MasterGel Maker

COOLER MASTER MasterGel
http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/product/Detail_aj01/cooling/en1512010002a2ac/Overview.html

IDK, worth a try I suppose

ICD has been used in laptops, similar mixture, with good success, but it's hard to spread and apply - another technique to learn. BTW, the sizes of tubes are in "carets"...

Innovation Cooling Diamond "7 Carat" Thermal Compound - 1.5 Grams
https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Carat-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8/

But, you've already spent time lapping your heatsink, so you don't really need what ICD offers, which is providing good surface coverage on uneven surfaces. Still it's cheap - and it will scratch your shiny surfaces - so you'll get to sand it down again when changing pastes.