*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

That's not a problem cuz I met a fiend from Taiwan and he is traveling to Europe many times and he can bring it to me

 

You probably want a GT75 native to your region, it will have the right keyboard and power supply, as well as full support for you.

Buying out of your region may save a few bucks, but if something goes wrong getting support for it might be difficult - unless you send it back to the region you bought it for support.

Even if you bought it from a country nearer you in the EU to save money, you probably can get support, but check and make sure of that before you buy.

 

OK, keyboard is English guarty power supply I get those stuff for right placement. Only warrenty but I think they have worldwide.

 

It depends on the rules where you buy it, and where you try to service it. Again, it's better to check with MSI and the local support to make sure your out of region purchase is supported.

Doing the courier thing involves someone else in the transaction, and things can go wrong that aren't fun to work out. An easy way to lose a friend. Or, get scammed out of a lot of money...

If you need to return the laptop - it doesn't work out of the box - it's got to get back into the hands of the place it was purchased within 7-14 days typically to swap for another one or to get a refund. After that time expires you have deal with the maker directly, and only through RMA process.

If your friend isn't returning in time, you could get stuck with it. Then you need to go through RMA. Even if you can RMA locally with a global warranty, now you have to wait for weeks on the RMA turnaround.

And, they want you to register the laptop with proof of purchase for RMA, so make sure your friend brings back a receipt showing the serial number, date, and place of purchase or you may not be able to register the laptop and get warranty support.

Good luck

 

Ordinarily I would say you're right, but I don't trust MSI anymore. They can't even get their drivers right. They reupload the same 6 month old drivers and then change the date to the current date and act like it's a new driver. Their audio realtek drivers half the time do NOT even show the "realtek HD audio manager" app ! I am NOT KIDDING.

I am not kidding.

I've had this laptop for over a year, and I NEVER ever saw the Realtek HD audio manager even on a CLEAN INSTALL of windows and following all of Phoenix's audio guides! This also applied to the GT72VR as well (before I RMA"d it!).

Do you want to know how I finally got the "MSI branded" Realtek HD audio manager to appear? Last week? After over a year of owning this BGAbook?

1) i uninstalled the MSI official drivers.
2) went to Realtek's website and downloaded the "generic" realtek driver for laptops, non-branded so no features (e.g. no Hi-fi DAC popup when plugging in headphones when you have ESS Sabre).
3) THEN I uninstalled the Realtek generic driver.
4) Finally i installed the previous MSI driver that was previously installed.

Guess what?
The "MSI" REALTEK HD AUDIO MANAGER IS NOW IN THE TASKBAR !


I'm sorry but I do not believe MSI's incompetence anymore.
I still stand 95% sure that you can force the iGPU. If the Embedded Controller is doing the dGPU->iGPU switch, you have two ways to try it
I'm only putting this out there because some people are asking how to enable the iGPU so they don't get 1 hour of battery life >_>

The GT75VR and GT75 EC is structually identical to this one. Just there are new registers that used to be "00" that are now used by the new chips.



Do you see EC register F0?
Changing F0 to "01" causes case button #4 to turn red. This button is never red regardless of whatever program you have installed. This button is "user defined" button (set to launch a program via MSI SCM).
Changing F0 to "02" causes the button to blink on/off.

EC RAM register F1 is the "Mux" switch.
00=default.
01=changes something
04/05 changes something to something else.

All a user with a GT75 or GT63 Titan has to do is program this register and reboot and see if the dGPU boots up disabled or not. MSI always recycles code.
Do you see the two NOS flags registers "C5" and "C6"? They've been there ever since the GT60.
9E at register C5 is the NOS master flag. Changing this manually to "80" instantly disables NOS and causes power throttling.
C0 at register C6 is the NOS status flag. C0=idle/NOS enabled (full power), C1=load/NOS enabled (Full power). 40 and 41 means NOS is disabled (limited power/throttled). Unplugging the battery causes C6 to report 40 and 41.

NOS can be forced back on if the battery is unplugged internally by programming "09" into EC register 31 and "64" into EC Register 42 (BOTH must be done). EC register 42 is the battery charge % in hexadecimal. 64=100% in decimal.

 

Hiding the Realtek control interface is done on purpose, by design.

The MSI / Nahimic driver bundle - matching releases to work together to hide the Realtek interface and only show the Nahimic interface.

That's why if you use the newest Realtek driver downloaded from Realtek instead of the Realtek+Nahimic bundle downloaded from MSI, the Nahimic interface may stop working.

 

Ok I just tested this.

In RW Everything:
EC RAM register F1:

on dGPU: Program "01" into register F1.
It will change automatically to "02".

Then reboot.
Laptop will boot loop once, GPU button will turn off and it will boot with the iGPU.

on iGPU: Program "01" into register F1
It will change automatically to "06".

Then reboot.
Laptop will boot loop once, then boot with the Nvidia dGPU.

This is proof the Embedded Controller is controlling the MUX'ing.

Someone with a Gt75 Titan needs to test this. (if they don't want to mess with the System Agent Bios menus). If this does nothing (or if it opens dragon center (LOL!!!!!!), then you have to mess with the System Agent Primary Display options and hope iGFX works.

 

I believe G-Sync prevents the use of integrated graphics hence why there is no option on the GT75.

 

G-sync GPU needs to be directly connected to a G-sync monitor to handshake, and going through an iGPU kills that functionality.

That's why you can't get G-sync with Optimus.

Switchable iGPU <=> dGPU will support G-sync when switched to dGPU mode, because the dGPU is directly wired to the display after switching.

 

Hey everyone,

I hope all is well. Does anyone know where I can purchase an extra charging setup to keep in my bag for traveling it came with 2 330 bricks 2 cords and a 2 brick to 1 plug adapter I have the i9 version of the MSI gt75 8rg-094 thanks in advance

 

Where did you purchase it all from originally? They should be able to offer you what you need.

Or, any GT75 boutique seller can as well, most will sell accessories to anyone, some only to those that purchased their laptop from them. There are plenty to choose from, shop around.

Amazon is a good place to get parts - search on there with the model numbers on each component. Check out the list of sellers offering GT75's on Amazon, there are boutique sellers selling on Amazon too, get their names and go to their websites, and contact them via email, onsite messaging, and phone.

And, of course Google. I'd be careful of ebay for fake PSU's, but I personally haven't had an issue with sellers there, so far.

That's a lot of money to spend, so perhaps consider getting 1 more 330w PSU that you can carry around and don't load it up heavily - one 330w PSU could be enough without OC'ing CPU + GPU. Get an inexpensive wall power meter to plug the laptop into, and start a list of power draw under various usage - see what usage exceeds 280w-330w from the wall, and don't do that on the single power supply.

You can borrow wall power meters from Libraries, or get them from hardware stores for $30 and up.

 

There is also the single eurocom power supply (I think its like 780W). Might be worth considering over carrying 2 bricks?
PS. I think hidevolution even offers it in their configuration as optional one. I guess it could be worth looking into?

 

That's a very nice power supply, and perfect for travel, but it's so expensive I hardly ever mention it. It is much better to carry than that mass of cables, PSU's, and splitter box though...

The World's Most Powerful 780W External AC/DC Adapter.
$475...
http://www.eurocom.com/configure(2,404,0)ec

 

Well if you want full power then 2x230w adapter is like 300 euro then you need the splitter (should be like 30 I guess) the you have the insane hassle of those things plus you can never be sure there will be 2 free power outlets for you. So you probably need to carry an extension cord with you. I mean... who would bother. If a single 330w adapter can power it with the cpu downclocked then sure that seems to be the cheapest and least bothersome option.
Ps. Auto correct on phone sucks.

 

So, back to my HOT cores #0 and #2.
There's no point in writing to support?
They won't fix it? And won't change to another laptop because of just 8-10°C difference?
You suggest to tear down stupid "factory seal" sticker and do fix it myself? - I personally all in for this option, I have good thermal paste and ordered "nano"-one and arctic pads from US, and I probably have more experience than noobs in local service center. I just worry if it is factory defect which is hard to fix with just pads and paste - they will charge me for new parts, like heatsink or Idk...

If I write to support, how do I persuade them to fix or change, considering that I bought it 2 months ago and 10°C difference is considered "acceptable" by Intel (as somebody stated here)?

 

Well I think it's just a bad paste job/heatsink fit. Falkentyne said many times that the heatsink isn't totally flat so it kinda makes sense. I mean, I still have up to 6 degrees difference between my hottest and coolest core with factory paste and I think I was pretty lucky with it? I mean, alienwares (especially the previous gen) were notoriously known for badly fitting heatsinks with some having up to extreme 20C difference between the cores (ok I suppose that wasn't that common but they were there). So yeah, I would say msi will not do anything about it. Most of those with affected alienwares needed to fix it themselves too and tbh 9C is not way toooo bad yet, a little unlucky maybe. Most likely totally fixable.
Ps. this guy for example has 73C on coolest and 92!!! on hottest core in the unit he talks about. Don't watch the whole video, not worth it imo.

 

I not had a chance to get 0.5mm Artic pads, but i buyed 145x145x1 Artic with coolermaster termal paste, to choose the right termal paste from coolermaster you just need check if have this 2 points,

• Ultra-high CPU/GPU conductivity (11 W/m.k)
• NanoDiamond particles maintains through a wide range of temperatures

​

And well, laptop its just fine now with only 6ºC max difference on cores…

​

 

Will repasting void ALL warranty for ALL parts, or just relevant parts, like cpu, gpu and heatsinks?

 

If you only do repaste, not will have any problems with warranty if dealing directly with MSI. Beware about changing the termal pads, MSI tried refuse my second RMA with my GT72VR just because i changed the termal pads...they said that "I manipulated the thermal pads".

Official response from MSI about breaking the factory seal:
"MSI users have permission to void the warranty label to upgrade RAM, HDD and also for cleaning purposes. However, note that any mechanical damage that may occur during the above actions is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty."

Edit:

Some stores can refuse the RMA if you break the seal, its because its better dealing with MSI first and then they will report the RMA to the store where you buyed the laptop.

 

I can confirm that as long as you don't damage anything you are OK. But if you play with liquid metal there is a good chance they will refuse to honor warranty for anything that it touched and might have potentially touched (practically they told me here in the netherlands not to use liquid metal if I want to keep my warranty safe). Also, don't make the same mistake as we did when taking it apart - the plastic clips on the bottom panel are SUPER fragile. We broke off like 2 in front and now I have a small gap haha, though when just sitting on the desk it's barely noticeable (it does trigger my OCD tendencies a bit). Just take your time with it.
EDIT: yes the bf just ripped the panel off with brute force. Literally.Oh and warranty on those parts we broke off is obviously down the drain which makes sense, why would MSI fix my mess-up.

 

The fastest way to fix the problem is to just go balls deep.
Buy a GOOD sanding block. Sanding is non-reversible so you want to get the center of the heatsink as flat as possible while also sanding as LITTLE down as possible (important). Then buy the sandpaper for the block, sand, polish, then put 0.5mm pads (1mm causes core temps to be higher on the side of the cores closest to the VRMs) to replace the 1mm stock pads, and Coolermaster Mastergel Nano paste in an even spread (make sure you clean off the "lairdtech" stuff first) and you're good.

You will need to remove the "C-clips" from the heatsink screws first. The C clips keep the screws in the heatsink. They are safe to remove just don't lose the screws afterwards. You will need some micro flathead mini screwdriver or similar tool to get into the very small notches around the c-clips. That way the screws won't interfere with the sandpaper (important).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for sandpaper.

Don't skimp on the sanding block. you want the job done right so something like this is good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R4Y8BO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7O51HGOUZ91S

Don't skimp and get lower quality rubber blocks. Plus you can find other stuff to sand in the future.

Support won't fix anything. These heatsinks are mass produced off a factory. you're better off asking the MSI parts department to just sell you a new heatsink and have them ship it to you and then do the repaste with that if you decide not to sand, rather than you paying shipping costs and being without a laptop. Your choice. The heatsinks have to come from China anyway as they are not saved locally at MSI warehouses. Tom Ho will sell you a new heatsink under warranty if you don't want to sand; you will need to search forums for his email as it has been posted before. might cost you $60, but that's how much shipping would cost you for the laptop anyway.

 

True level, beach.

 

If you are still in the initial 7-15 day return period you could just tell them it's not suitable to your needs - no further explanation is needed, and return it. If they try to charge you a restocking fee bring up the high core temperature differential and that it's thermal throttling on the hot cores 10c sooner than the cooler cores, which defeats the purpose of the laptop for you.

Then get another one, and test it out. Usually a second unit is better. You can improve odds by buying elsewhere, pulling from another shipment / build run.

Why waste your time doing their job, they had one job to do right, and they blew it. Try another fresh deal from the deck.

 

I just picked up an 8RG-056 and am noticing that my PCH is getting near 90C at times under load. Where is that located so I can see if something happened when I put liquid metal on my CPU/GPU. I did not touch the thermal pads during the operation.

 

Thanks, guys.
This forum is truly the best.
It helped me with upgrading my GPU on my old GT60 back in the days.

Really appreciate all your help and support.

 

I assume that even without sanding, a good thermal paste might bring the temp difference down a little to maybe 6 degrees or so, making it more acceptable...

The thing is. The only ones with factory paste so far were me. Pedro and prodj. I have like 6 degrees difference and so did Pedro I believe... the fact prodj has 9 is just a little bad luck but actually it's not alarming yet. I doubt a new one would be better than 6 degrees difference

 

Everyone has different needs, 9c is where I returned LGA CPU to Intel, and they took it, even though 10c is their bottom limit.

3c-4c greater difference than average isn't smaller...it's larger. And, 9c is right at the point of frustration, I know, I was there. I didn't want to return it either, but I had a warranty on the CPU and Intel honored it. My replacement was 1c-2c differential, maybe I got lucky, but I am glad I tried.

But, that's good feedback, so if he gets a 4c-6c difference on the new unit that's closer to the average.

 

After 24 hours and playing games i still have 6ºC max difference on cores, for me its fine...but worth buying the 0.5mm Artic thermal pads?

 

6c isn't bad, especially if the hot cores aren't getting close to tripping into thermal throttling. If you aren't thermal throttling these no need to re-past or re-pad.

Plus without explicit instructions on how to get the effect you need - which area to tilt in which way, you could make it worse.

It usually takes 3-4 tries or more for owners doing this to get tuned in to "cause and effect" of physical adjustments, but some get lucky first try.

 

Bud, you know the "location" of the cores in the cpu chip?

 

PCH's run hot even without mods, did you get the holes in the chassis mod? That pulls air through those holes instead of from the front / middle of the chassis and reduces air flow over the motherboard components - like the PCH - so they run hotter - but the CPU / GPU run cooler.

I've seen reports of people putting finned heat sinks on the PCH, and I've done that on desktop motherboards - some with fans too, but that may not fit well enough in a laptop.

 

Not on this laptop... on the AW there are lots of posts about fixing the core temperature differential, and they figured out which way to tilt it based on readings.

Unless someone has already done that with the GT75 and reports it, it's up to discovery - please post what you find if you do it yourself.

@Falkentyne any suggestions on which way to tilt surface contact based on which cores are hot?

 

The PCH or motherboard chipset have the die exposed but on the other side of the motherboard, in another words, you only can see the chipset if
you disassembly the laptop, its in the same side of OEM RAM.

 

No, I purchased it stock and applied the LM myself. If I saw it top out at 80C I would not have been surprised but when it hit 90C during a heavy file transfer, I got concerned.

Since it is on the back and I didn't remove the motherboard, I at least know that it was not caused by anything I did. I guess I will keep an eye on it for now.

 

I just started playing a few games on it and twice it has abruptly locked up, powered off, then rebooted. PCH temperature was over 90C. Did I get a bad laptop or can I do anything about this? Is there even enough room for one of those stick-on heat sinks?

 

That is definitely not how it should work... I could play even on stock cpu+gpu paste, no undervolt AND 26C in the room... it did reach 90C on the gpu then though.... you should not need any pch heatsink :x Have you taken all precautions when applying LM? Taping/otherwise covering surrounding areas? Have you even tested it stock at all in games/benchmarks? If you haven't that is a major mistake as any defects are better to be discovered before LM touches anything. I hope for you that your local MSI branch is understanding. What kinds of games do you play? CPU or GPU intensive or both? I could look at what my pch temp does, but I have a weird issue with hwinfo not wanting to read it every time (reboot helps).

 

I did take my usual precautions with LM. It passed all my benchmarks just fine. After LM and a -1.50 undervolt in XTU the CPU was at 80-82C and the GPU at 75C with the fans on auto in AIDA (Stress FPU and GPU). PCH was well within tolerances.

I didn't notice a problem with PCH temperatures until I did a 50GB file transfer to my 970 Pro. It spiked up to nearly 90C. I had one reboot earlier and thought it was just an overzealous undervolt that made it through testing. The second time it happened, I saw my sensor panel and the PCH was at 95C. That is what led me to believe there is a problem.

I was playing Warframe and Phantasy Star Online 2. They can push the GPU since I want to make use of the 120Hz panel but don't really thrash the CPU hard. That requires me to start up Civ6.

 

So... I can't test the same way you did as I don't have the means to.... but getting it standardized: when running crystal mark bench I saw max PCH temp of 77C with about 30C ambient temp. Then I played witcher III for about 10 mins (100% gpu and reasonable cpu usage), PCH seems to hover around 79-81C (about the same temp as the gpu atm). Now I don't run max fans, which you should keep in mind. I think the highest my gpu fan goes is like 3400 rpms. I don't have the time to test any more atm but I doubt my PCH temp goes over 90 that easily.
Anyway, I don't think it should be crashing just because of that... Have you tried to remove the undervolt?

 

@BlakLanner by the way... your temps seems very high for LM... how is your room temp? What fan speed are you actually getting (dragon center reports that)? The undervolt is in which units? Did you mean -150mV? Have you applied the bios changes that falkentyne posted on the forums? You can't really undervolt with those.... There could be million reasons you are crashing. What exactly happens before the crash - you can set up riva software to work with hwinfo to keep temps/power/voltage on screen in real time...

 

The BIOS is stock as I didn't want to mess with it or risk bricking the box because I would be tempted to tinker. You cannot make those changes without a custom/unlocked BIOS.

The fans were running around 3000 rpm as I did not press the "start jet engine" button during testing. I was testing a "real world" scenario as I would not use the fan boost in public given that they are very loud. The temps are still 20c less than what I was getting stock (it was thermal throttling before the undervolt and LM) and were dropping off very quick when the runs ended so I am confident my LM application is ok. My problem is with the PCH anyway, not the CPU or GPU.

-0.150V is the same as -150mV. I just used the value that XTU does. As for how it crashes, it just locks up for a second or two, then powers down and back on.

Edit: To put the CPU/GPU temp question to bed, I ran a 30 minute stress test with the fan boost on. CPU was 77-80C. GPU was 70C. Could I do better? Sure, I could lap the heat sinks or experiment with the custom BIOS option. I would consider that a last resort, however.

 

I don't know what's going on with your PCH temps.
On my GT73VR, I did an Atto disk benchmark of 64MB and queue depth 4 on my 960 Pro, and the PCH temps didn't go higher than 53.5C on auto fans.
I dont know how you got 90C.

Can you download Atto disk benchmark, set the size to 64MB and queue depth 4 and then see what your temps get to?

 

Ran fans at max to try and cool it down. Managed to get it down to about 55c.
Turned off fan boost and ran benchmark. IO 512B-64MB, 64MB File Size, Queue Depth 4. Temps slowly climbed to 75c.
As the temps had not yet settled, ran the benchmark again at the same settings. PCH peaked at 80c but I don't think it was going to go any higher.

 

That's strange. Very strange.
Maybe the PCH is in a different location. It never gets hot on the GT73VR....sorry I can't do anything to help.
You can try putting an Enzo heatsink (Ramsink) on it if you can find it.

 

Im getting a max of 83ºC in last 48 hours in PCH sensor, but i have a 8750H and a GTX1080.

 

Yeah you said -1.5 undervolt which is why I was confused. Anyway you still haven't said how's the room temperature? Your temps just seem high. How do you get similar temps on lm as I do on factory paste on cpu and gelid gc extreme on gpu? Is your gpu undervolted or not? Either way my cpu is maybe even cooler than yours and that's stock paste with 33 or so degrees inside. I'm baffled as to what is up with your laptop. Also I didn't thermal throttle even on 100% stock....
Ps. Are you like in desert in direct sun with it being like 40 or 50 C? Haha that would explain!

 

Hello, I have a quick question regarding ram replacement. My GT75 Titan 04CA came with a single stick of 16GB ram and I would like to upgrade to dual channel. I gather it is necessary to disassemble the laptop to gain access to the underside of the motherboard. I am just wondering if it is possible to remove the motherboard without removing the cpu and gpu heatsinks. I have successfully repasted both after a few tries, and I would rather not have to disturb these unless absolutely necessary.

 

Hi! I have my GT75-056 on the way with 8850h and 1080. I’m excited and have high expectations. I owned 3 Alienware’s in the past 4 months and they throttle all over the place because the thermals sucked. Can anyone give me their initial thoughts of their GT75? Is the cooling really good? Any throttling?

 

It isn't overly hot in any place that I have been. I don't have a room thermometer but my office is air conditioned and it was probably about 25c at home. I do have an 8850H, not the 8750H listed in your signature so that might add a degree or two. When I put my sensor panel on top when playing PSO2 on one last test, my CPU and GPU were in the high 60s, with the PCH still spiking.

I rummaged through my parts drawer and found some BCC9-LE heatsinks, I will try to get the laptop apart and make the change. That should also let me check my LM application just to be safe and maybe add a second stick of RAM if I can find an exact duplicate of what is already in there. Until then, I will just run with the jet engine turned on and just keep an eye on everything.

 

My 056 throttled at stock when I ran it through a combined stress test. Using XTU to undervolt and changed the thermal paste took care of that. Outside of the stress test it ran hot but did not throttle if you don't want to go that route. There is also a button on the laptop that ramps the fans up incredibly loud but it really does help bring down temps if you can stand the noise.

 

Heatsinks must be removed because the radiators will block motherboard removal. But it's very very easy to remove the heatsinks. Just make sure you dont tear the thermal pads, and you have new thermal paste available. (I HIGHLY recommend you buy Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano for best repasting). If you can find Arctic 0.5mm thermal pads also, replace the 1mm pads on the CPU chokes and VRMs only (NOT on the GPU) and put 0.5mm pads on.

Before doing this however, first try putting the new 16 GB stick in the exposed RAM slot and see if it detects 32 GB in dual channel. If it does you saved a lot of work.

Warning:
ALWAYS UNPLUG THE BATTERY CONNECTOR BEFORE DOING ANYTHING TO THE LAPTOP. ALWAYS. Even with the AC adapter unplugged and the laptop off, there is STILL current going into it and you can STILL short circuit and destroy something until the battery connector is unplugged ! There are many disassembly guides where they disassemble half the laptop before they unplug the battery--those people are complete novices (or fools) and they are VERY lucky magic smoke sparks didn't fly out if a screw dropped on the motherboard.....