*** The Official MSI GT75 Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

I don't have an unlocked or custom BIOS so I don't have the "ac dc loadline" change. If I could do it without flashing a new BIOS I would certainly put that into effect. I just want to be able to do BIOS updates in the future without worrying about bricking my machine or paying for an updated custom BIOS. I am sure that one change would have significant effect on my laptop given how much it has helped some of the other people in this thread.

 

check my pm.

 

Yeah. I mean the 1x M.2 SSD slot is only for NVMe PCIe Gen3 ssd's. + same M.2 slot is probably also intended for Optane support. @Phoenix correct me if I'm wrong And from what I can remember... MSI screwed up with the Kaby lake models (No Optane support).

 

I am officially done with msi, I was trying to be happy with the laptop (I really was) and thought it was a good one too. Yesterday when I went to shut down it took about 10 minutes (hasn't happened before) but it shut down in the end. When I tried to turn it on today, black screen. So I forced it to shut down again, then turned on normally... and voila: no more sound. Realtek is not detected whatsoever in device manager, only a generic hd audio device shows up with exclamation mark. I tried reinstalling drivers, restore point, recovery from system image from a month ago, more driver reinstalling, removing nahimic, windows built-in troubleshooter, all the weird tips I could find online, safe mode... there is just no sound from the built in realtek chip and it seems totally broken. Windows happily announces that no audio devices are installed. At this point, I see it as a hw failure, possibly dead motherboard. Nice, right? I hope I can get my money back this time, even if it's not the whole sum I can't care. I want this thing off my hands.
PS. when I try to update driver manually from inside device manager it just results in some unspecified error during driver installation and won't proceed. All hope is lost.

 

Hold down the power button for 45 seconds, then release it and wait 2 minutes for it to do its thing.

Does this bring back the sound?

 

That on its own didn't work as I tried earlier but now it did for some reason... some combo of that, uninstalling, reinstalling, windows recovery, chipset update, more reinstalling, total uninstalling, then a cmos reset and then installing of realtek -> yey I have sound again!
What caused this is beyond my imagination and so is the combo of trying every last thing possible which fixed it.
PS. Thanks, I wouldn't have thought to try it once again since it didn't do anything before.

 

Can someone please explain to me how does something get so messed up that even recovering windows doesn't help? I assume I didn't hold the power button long enough the first time which is why it didn't do anything. I guess I can't be angry with msi drivers since the issue comes up over many manufacturers when googled. What they have in common is realtek and windows.... sad stuff. Sad.
Our old trustworthy pc has a VIA onboard soundcard (the company doesn't make soundcards anymore and drivers are hard to come by but once you get it installed after a short struggle it just seems to keep working...). I keep on liking that old pc more and more despite its many shortcomings... (4000rpm+ grindy stock cpu fan is the main one - but it needs to work hard as the ancient amd cpu needs 1.475V to be stable at 3.3GHz). I am happy the old dog is always there waiting as a backup in case the fancy new expensive stuff breaks.

 

If there is any user from EU. Is 2 years warranty valid within EU (together with pick up & return) or only in the country where it is bought? Also I have seen that Windows 10 Home is generally single language at GT75, how is at your computer?

 

You can install any language from inside windows. It's pretty easy and fast. You can also change language on login screen etc. I am not sure you can get a different language from the get-go though but once you install language of your wish you can get rid of the old one. I recommend making a full system image once you are happy with how it runs (though it seems sometimes even that is useless haha). Also if you want to install clean windows, you can 100% choose any language and it will be activated automatically.
As for warranty, I think you will have to contact MSI for that.
@Falkentyne there are couple others with the audio missing problem on msi forums and cmos reset didn't do the trick for them so maybe it was something else I have done that got it working... But I have no idea what that something could be. I am pretty scared it goes missing again

 

PS. I just realized I should stress this: unless you are buying in eu for tax reasons or trying to buy second hand, I srongly recommend you look into importing it from hidevolution - they have the option for 2 year global warranty and an EU power cord. Also a nice array of ssd's and cooling upgrades. I personally have no experience but it looks good, prices aren't much higher than here and imo it's a lot better when a 3rd reputable party has your back with warranty. Also everyone on the forums seems to be super happy with their service!

 

I got my GT75 from HIDEvolution too and I am currently based in Germany. First of all you won't get all the customizations that they do which I believe are the best. The only thing that you need to think of is the import duties. For me, a friend was coming to meet me so I got her to bring my laptop.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

There are 2 Types of MSI GT75 users. One from HIDEvolution and the others.
It seems that standard GT75 is not as impressive as I imagine.

If I buy it within Europe, I can get tax return via my company but if I buy from United States I dont think I get a tax refund and I pay a high amount of shipping. It seems quite expensive like that to me.

 

where are you located @PredatoR_TR ?
We have EU Warranty and warranty which is in the hands of the different governments.

 

I am in Finland. I will go to Germany for a short trip and I would like to get the laptop over there since it is cheaper over there.

 

If you want to buy in eu anyway I'd just get it locally. Also, I am one of those with a stock gt75 8rg. Mostly the faults I've encountered are also present on other units, even ones from hidevolution. Even those have undervolts etc applied for good functioning. The liquid metal ofc makes a lot of difference. Also my laptop seems to only have 1 hw fault and that is a tiny rattle on cpu fan which is inaudible over music. Not sure what the latest audio failure was but I found lots of people with various brands and even pcs who had sth similar happen on their Windows 10 machines. Those with pcs have it simple though, just rma the 100 euro board and be done with it.
Ps. When it comes to performance my laptop is super amazing ^^ as long as it works as it should.

 

did some testing ang temps for gpu and cpu so are impressive, just a question though, i tested titanfall 2 in offline mode, settings mostly on ultra, fps are 120 maintained, the temps are 68 for gpu and 65 for cpu, so far i have some momentary stutter issue (fps drops to 5, sometimes 10 or 17) and goes back again to 120, stutter time is like 5 secs, maximum 10 to 15, gpu temp 65 and cpu 62, 391 nvidia driver out of the box. Sometimes i just go to pause menu, toggle the vsync and it goes back to normal fps, i notice stutter happens load on gpu 100%, i use msi after burner (just for monitoring purposes, no adjustment for clocks etc) what could be the problem?

 

Which nvidia driver is that? If it's anything newer than 391.xx you will have stuttering. I recommend to install the driver from this thread - 1st post: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-gt75-titan-drivers.800622/
OR if the newer drivers don't give you problems otherwise, you can also go to 3d settings -> program settings-> and set prefer max performance for any game that gives you the issue. Don't set it globally else you will have the gpu running at max clocks all the time.
EDIT: ok didn't see Phoenix updated the driver. I haven't tried that one, I am on 391.74 now.

 

Ok correction i have 398.36, will do some testing later, still waiting for feedbacks on the msi gt75 drivers otherwise i have to roll back to 391.xx

 

I strongly recommend you uninstall that driver. It was the one that made me boot to a black screen twice over the past 3 weeks or so and the second time when I had to force it to shut down I booted back to find my realtek audio totally missing. Not even recognized by device manager. Windows recovery didn't help it. Maybe the last CMOS reset did, maybe it was a combo of whatever I did as I tried about a million things. Just get rid of that driver asap. Atm if you look for stability, I recommend 391.xx MSI drivers (tho you may bsod if your screen goes black to save power on idle, so if that happens you will have to disable that in windows power settings - just don't let the screen ever time out, set it to go to sleep instead).

 

Hey there
Im interested in buying the GT75VR with 32 gigs of ram, the 1080 gtx and the 7820 hk
Would you guys recommend buying this laptop now or are there better alternatives?

 

It is discounted right now from HIDevolution:

Custom Built MSI GT75VR 7RF Titan Pro-202 17.3" w/ G-Sync nVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080

They also have excellent build quality and they offer very nice thermal upgrades like the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut and Fujipoly Thermal pads to keep things cool.

Now is the best time to grab this because from what I heard that the new GPUs from nVIDIA got delayed so there is no point in waiting that long.

Also, the 7820HK is a very good CPU and can handle any game you throw at it with ease.

Email [email protected] if you wanna get the NBR Discount

 

@Phoenix wonders why I "liked" your post, and this is to answer for him what I think you might already get, without taking a post up I indicated my positive affirmation that I recommend you buy that laptop, by "Like"ing your post.

@Phoenix is mystified often at why I "Like" posts.

But he doesn't "like" anything, so I can understand his confusion.

I like most everything, but I don't always click "Like" unless I am trying to convey a positive affirmation of the question asked or approval of the effort put into presenting the material in the post.

Sometimes I just "Like" it because I like it.

 

thanks for the reply, just to confirm, how will I properly uninstall the present driver? is it DDU + safe mode then boot up and install the latest 391.xx driver? please advice, thanks.

 

@Pedro69 Hello all, sorry for late replay. I thought that I fix my uneven core temps but I did not. I used 0.5mm artic pads with CM nano gel. Also I lap one side of my HS where Vrams are. Everything was great for about 7 mount but these days started again. There is no fix Maybe just to lap your HS like I did and use LM to repaste, all other pastes will fail after some period of time. In my case about 7 mounts

 

I highly recommed this laptop, i have one myself and before i used to own asus, alienware and sager laptopa, because of the good cooling design, putting the fans on auto does give a significant boost of lowering the temps during gaming. Apart for the gt75, you can consider a similar set up rog g703 with 144hz screen.

 

Yeah that's just about the best way you can choose. I see Phoenix reposted one 391.48 in the drivers thread so you can fetch it there: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-gt75-titan-drivers.800622/
I am on 391.74 now and so far no issues either: http://download.msi.com/nb_drivers/...1.74)-1032719-01_23.21.13.9174_0xb63b5b84.zip

 

My replacement laptop arrived today. I ran 4 back to back runs of Atto 512B-64MB, 256MB file size, QD 4 and fans on Auto (fresh Win10 install so no Dragon Center). My PCH temperature briefly touched 70C before dropping back down.

 

Thank you very much for your answer I really appreciate
I did find a pretty nice offer already that’s why I asked
Is it possible to overclock the cpu to 4,1 GHz permanent or is that too much? Have you guys had any problems with overheating bc of overclocking?

 

Your laptop is 24 for 24 hours right?

 

7 months is better than one week. You have to admit that. You improved from 1 week to 7 months. That's considered a win.
What's your temps like now?

Usually you need to repaste once every 6 months to 1 year, depending on the heatsink pressure. Higher heatsink pressure=less repasting.
Laptops are the suck. Repasting every 6 months to 1 year is normal.

 

made the right move and successfully installed 398.82, stutter was gone for now, although I did notice that GPU load now is higher than before (or maybe just the game scenario idk) next up is fixing the fan curves, in auto mode, gpu temps will reach 82ish max and fans will spin, cooling gradually until 80 and I think it stops there, fan rpm not really that noisy but I could feel hot air flowing a little bit more on the side vent, how can I set the fan curves on a safe temp limit? 80ish max temps are I think considered safe at high gpu load, I'm planning to make it 75 or lower depends really I don't like to make the fans start and stop most of the time (maybe at mild rpm ok). Also the dragon center update was not really much, I go Sport mode most of the time (cant tell them apart from Turbo).

 

Is it possible to oc the 7820 hk to 4,1 GHz permanently without overheating it?

 

3.9 ghz is stock, so 4.1 ghz should work on virtually 100% of the samples. I only saw one unit which didn't seem to like 4.2 ghz from someone here, but even 4.1 ghz worked on his dog sample of a chip. You should not have a problem with stock paste but you can always repaste with something good and change the 1mm thermal pads on the CPU VRMs and Chokes for 0.5mm Arctic thermal pads (very helpful when doing repasting to reduce problems with core 0 and 2 being much hotter than core 1 and 3).

 

I thought 2,9 GHz was the base clocking speed? And when you guys talk about oc do you mean permanent overclocking or just for gaming sessions?
Thanks for your answer

 

I successfully replaced the 1 stick of 16GB of ram on the back side of the motherboard. Instead of placing my 2 new 2x8 GB stick of Kingston Hyper X memory back in those slots, I placed them in the easy to access slots on the front of the motherboard, WHICH SHOULD HAVE BEEN USED IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!!! Seriously, whoever decided to place the 1 stick in the impossible to get at slots should be fired into the sun.

The job wasn't super hard by any means, but a bit nerve wracking given the amount of disassembly required. The sticks are running at full advertised speed of 2666 Mhz with cas latency of 15, so I had no issues there. I had to repaste with Phobya Nanogrease extreme this round as that's all I had available, so I'll have to see how the paste holds up over time. Temps look really good so far, hopefully that lasts. Thankfully repasting this laptop is pretty easy, so if a repaste is necessitated down the road it's not a huge job by any means.

 

Can I see your temps?
Run and install prime95
before running prime95, enter this in the file "local.txt" in the prime95 folder at the top:

CPUSupportsAVX=0

Then enable max fan speed (important)/cooler boost 100%, then run a FIXED FFT 1344K size custom text for 5 minutes. Feel free to post Throttlestop pictures of the results, or HWinfo64 pictures showing the CPU VID, cpu package power and temps

 

@Pedro69 I am sorry, I did not understand your question. How do you mean my laptop is 24 for 24?
Yes It is much better than my week and my temps are still if I can say OK but far from perfect. In games I am getting Max of 83c with 4GHz CPU in prime 95 it is 93C Max I saw after 20 mins. And all my cores are within 2-3 C just core 1 is 9 C bigger that the others. it's very weird. I will wait maybe a little longer and do repaste job again.

 

Is it core 1, 2, 3 and 4, or core 0, 1, 2, 3?
What numbering are you talking about?

Cores #0 and #2 are top left and top right (with VRM side up) with HWInfo64 or hwmonitor cpu numbering.
.
Or if doing 1, 2, 3, 4, then its Cores #1 and #3 that at top left and top right.
Because if you are doing cores 0, 1, 2, 3 and its core 1 (BOTTOM LEFT) that is 9C higher, that's VERY weird.

if its the top left core, when you remove your heatsink, take a picture for me like you did last time, with heatsink and cpu showing (both sides) so i can see why you have 9C difference.

 

I will take a pictures when I do repaste job. I did Cinebench tests for you to see. I am doing 0,1,2,3.

 

Always core #1 the coolest core, all the time (bottom left).
Realistically, the only way to make sure all the cores either rise in temp at the same time or dont rise at all is to have the temps no higher than 2C difference, with 1C being ideal. Any difference means different thermal properties, different contact pressure, heat transfer and then different effects from expansion/contraction of surfaces or thermal paste state changes. Since the CPU slug is also slightly convex too, it's very hard to get things perfect.

Back in the old days, before we had integrated heat spreaders, I remember some people actually sanded the slug of the CPU to make sure it was perfectly flat with their gigantic Alpha heatsinks or whatever they were called back then (since everyone knew Intel cores were convex? Or were they concave? I forgot). But all that stuff stopped with was it Socket 370?

Fun stuff.
https://www.overclockers.com.au/article.php?id=320628

 

I snapped this at approximately the 5 minute mark. Let me know if this is what you were after.

 

Can't complain about those results. Looks good.

 

Yeah I'm pretty happy with the laptop so far, although I've probably spent more time with upgrading and tweaking so far than I've spent gaming on it. I think I'm done for now. I've repadded where necessary (mostly where they were damaged when I removed the heatsinks, although I did repad the CPU as recommended with 0.5 mm pads) and added pads where they were missing from the factory, replaced the sata hard drive with a 1TB ssd, and replaced the single 16 GB stick of CL19 memory with two sticks of 8GB CL15 memory. Not to mention repasting several times as well. The temps from the latest paste job seem to be the best yet. I guess I could have saved myself some work by ordering the laptop with dual channel memory and a bigger ssd from the get-go, but I've honestly enjoyed tinkering on the laptop so far.

 

Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing on of these to be mainly used as a gaming machine. Are there any sellers over here in the UK that can carry out the cooling modifications and repast the cpu and gpu before I receive the laptop? Or do you think I'll be OK temps wise if I'm just using it for gaming? The games I play are along the lines of witcher 3, monster Hunter, just cause, final fantasy xv, divinity original sin, far cry series, company of heroes, homeworld, that kind of thing really.

My apologies if this has been asked before, I had a quick search but couldn't find a concrete answer, as such.

Thank you

Ian

 

That is always the conundrum. We want our devices to just work without effort but there, quite simply, is a feeling of satisfaction to tinkering with an item, making it your own, and seeing the results.

I bought the same memory as you did, only in 2x16GB. It should arrive Wednesday and I will do all my replacements and swapping at that time. I will try to get before and after thermals measured assuming I remember and find time to stress test.

 

Those are some amazing temps considering the paste seems to still be electrically non-conductive... Wow I might look into getting it too How is your gpu temp and fan speeds?

 

I don't think anyone noticed his cpu default VID.
0.97v even with an undervolt, that's very low for 3.9 ghz. If that were a 8950HK, that might be a candidate for 4.8 ghz stable.

 

That's just kind of in my nature, I'm basically never happy with anything out of the box, I always feel the need to be modding something, whether it be a car, computer, etc.

 

It's only an i7-8750h unfortunately. The unlocked 8950HK would have been cool to have, but I bought my machine locally and this is the only processor they had available at the time. On the plus side though is this processor will maintain 3.9 GHz all day long and not even break much of a sweat. I've yet to see the fan for it go over 2000 RPM in regular usage.