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Certain Dell desktops do this, as do some others. The BIOS needs time to run up and start polling the sensors, and the fans run wide open to prevent sudden heat spikes form the CPU until the temps can be registered and the fan curve loaded. As the BIOS finishes POST and starts taking care of running everything, the fans will scale down to normal and then the OS starts to load, which sometimes can override your fan settings as drivers and utility software loads, depending on the brand and if you have made any changes to the settings in their software.
But to answer your question, while flashing the BIOS, none of this is happening in the background during the flash. They default back to 100% and it's not a bad thing, as far as safety is concerned.
Its an GT62VR 7RD Dominator.
The fans are not running intermittently, they are not defective.
The Bios and ME firmware need updating.
Its the heat generated during the bios flash that is the concern.
Well, that's a tricky one. You won't hurt the CPU if it gets too hot, as it will throttle down to prevent damage, BUT if it gets too hot then it will eventually shut down. You don't want the laptop powering off during a BIOS flash. That is almost always a sure way to create an expensive paperweight. I've done it before on an old desktop with a dual-bios, but I bought the motherboard just because it had that feature. It will depend on how long the flash takes. You still have heat sinks, thermal paste and heat pipes working passively. If you really want to try it, I would remove the bottom cover and set up a strong fan that will blow across the heat pipes. Maybe borrow a laptop cooler pad if you don't have one.
Done, worked fine, but the fans are still problematic.
Fans kick on or off intermittently, Cooler Boost cuts out, thermal shutdown from heat.
Everything is now updated and installed.
Possibly the TZ's on the motherboard?
Check this. Sometimes certain services and activity in the background intermittently cranks up your CPU usage, and perhaps you are going over a temperature threshold temporarily, and then quickly returns to form.
You can try putting a more sensible, low step fan curve to see if it still happens.
You have me stumped now. It does should like a bad thermal paste job, or one that has gotten bad. But to be cutting in and out like that is strange. Also the need to restart the laptop to get the fans going again just doesn't sound right. Have you checked all the power leads inside the laptop running to the coolers? Possibly a short or a loose connection?
Thermal Paste?!
None of this is relevant to the fans cutting out and stopping then notebook needs a reboot to get them going or it shuts down due to overheating....intermittently, sometimes days apart..
Software/firmware solutions have been exhausted, fans work when external power is applied to them.
Motherboard issues are the last troubleshooting procedure.
TZ or Thermistor sensors, or the Nuvoton NCT677D chip that that also runs them and the fans might need reflowing or there defective/damaged.
This is a mechanical hardware issue....Bench time.
The fans used in that laptop are notoriously prone to eventual failure. I just replaced my first one after about 2.5 years of use. It got “wonky” towards the end. The failed fan stopped spinning at a basic fan speed I set for all uses when not gaming and was pulsing up and down. Sometimes it worked fine but others it pulsed. Full speed seemed to still work until it didn’t. It finally just stopped spinning and a restart might fix it or it might not. If I manually spun the fan with my finger to “jump start it” it would start working again.
Replaced the fan from one I got on eBay and no issues since.
Long story short, I think your fan or fans are going on that laptop.
If you got 2.5 years and more that means you've used your system well, as with all high performance parts they can wear out quicker since it's a GT after all.
Periodical clean-up would help to prolong its life.
Notebook fans and PC fans teardown the same way.
Both need periodic ac cleaning and lubrication.
The guy uses isopropyl alcohol, I use WD40 electrical contact spray cleaner.
He does use the correct lubricant @ 8:26 , its copper based.
I usually go with WD40 since it not only cleans the bear but also lubricates it.
But WD40 lubrication doesn't last that long so you may actually use silicone oil.
Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
