MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5) Fan Modifications

I have got 2 of those fans, proceeding to reverse cables now.

 

Cables are reversed, fan installed & it’s running like a champ!
CPU fan temp= 38
GPU= 33c.

 

Yesterday successfully plugged this fan over my ram and not i have perfect temperature for my SSD(from 80-95C to average 59C) and Chipset(from 80C to 70C) + CPU is like(20% better overall)

 

tell me what the dimensions of the fan AB08812HX26DB00 - height, width, length (interested in the size of the casing, not the blades)

 

Thank you alaskajoel

 

What kind of circular material did you use for the fan intake?

 

It gets air from middle grill of the original back cover.

 

Hello Sir. Thanks for this information I am confused however is the MSI 16L3 the same as the MSI GT63 Titan by chance? Because your bottom cover panel sure looks the same as the GT63 Titan 15.6 inch laptop. I'm interested in this mod. So I can just add two Adda AB08812HX26DB00 in place of both my gpu and cpu fan? Do you have a link on where to buy the fans? Many thanks.

 

Hey guys,

I am interested in doing the fan mod and am currently sourcing the materials.
As it turns out, I have received an AB08812HX26D F00 instead of the advertised AB08812HX26D B00.
The connector is a 5-pin one, but I have got a different color code:
red, black, white blue

While peeking into the fan's casing, I was able to make out this writing on the PCB:


Do you have any idea whether this fan model is compatible for my use case?
Additionally, do you know whether this white wire is the same as the yellow wire in the stock fan?
From what I can gather, this is the color coding:
Color Function
Black Ground
Red +12V
Yellow RPM from fan
Blue PWM from mainboard

The connector's look like this (the stock one is on the left, the fan to be modded on the right):


Thank you very much for your assistance

 

Yes, the yellow and white wire serve the same purpose. So if you swap the four wires from the 5-pin connector to that of the 4-pin then it'd do fine. The sequence would indeed be identical, save the different colour for the rpm signal's wire.

If you're lucky then the metal clips have the same size and you can simply dis- and reconnect them by using a small screwdriver and bend back the plastic flaps a little bit. That way the clip can be removed without any hassle. But if the clips have a different size or shape then you'd need to solder (or send back the fan). For the diy option it makes sense to ask for a partial refund, seeing that you didn't get the exact item you've ordered.

One thing you may want to check is whether both the ' F' and ' B' model have the same advertised maximum rpm speed; the ec firmware's fan speed table is designed around that value.

 

Unfortunately, the clips have different designs (top is to be modded, bottom is stock) and can't be inserted without problems into the new 4 pin connector.
They don't lock in place and given their fragile nature, I am going for the soldering option.

Do you happen to have a page / documentation at hand that I can consult?
So far, it seems there is no central database for fans and I am struggling to find even basic model specifications.

 

ADDA provides yearly catalogs in pdf form. There's no 90x90x25mm blower fans on their current list though, so guess you'd need to find an older catalog.

Could also sail by their numbering scheme; ' H' designates both fans as 'High' speed. That doesn't necessarily mean they're using the exact same maximum rpms. Some same-sized ' High' models are designed for 10k, while others can run 14,000 rpm. Mind that it can't hurt if it's a bit off, it's just that the fan profile could be a bit askew, ceiling before it ought to or resulting in lower- or higher-than-expected temperatures.

 

Why not just clip the wires themselves and solder the wires together.

 

That is what I am going to do as soon as the new fan arrives
I don't want to ruin a perfect replacement fan.

 

i miss my old F5 with the 7700k processor but I sure dont miss have to change the fans every 6 months. I've had to change the fans 3 times in 1.5 years.

 

I would have a quick question.
two gpu fan can be put in?
Thx

 

What are you trying to do? There are two fans in the system.
http://www.notebookreview.com/notebookreview/eurocom-tornado-f5-msi-16l13-review/

 

Well, I have finally gotten around to use a defective fan's connector and soldered it to the AB08812HX26D F00.
Checking it with a multimeter results in about 30 k Ohm for + against - and the other two pins (against + or -) have got a resistance of several M Ohms.
So I would assume that there is no short and normal contact.

However, (from my understanding) my laptop does not detect the RPM of the fan.
It will spin up the fan just fine, then stop it a few seconds later to spin it even higher and will escalate that way.
This seems to be the normal boot up / spin up procedure for the fan and I would assume that the EC does not get a signal, therefore supplying more power in an effort to make it spin.
It seems that I am going to stick with my N395 for now

 

purchase fans pabd19735bm - n395 they reach speed 5000 / min

 

How is the noise level?

 

noise very loudly like an airplane))) but also cools better. And there is a choice you can configure as you wish.

 

Hey there,

I have recently given the fan modification another go and want to share my results in case anyone else is still tinkering with their F5.
Last time, I had bought the fan mentioned in the opening post and had received a slightly different model that did not work in the F5 - the RPM signal was not detected by the EC, whoch continued to ramp up the speed...

This time around, I did find several offerings for the fan, but it always had that peculiar "compatible with" tag attached.
Long story short, all suppliers I did find on eBay, offered some kind of fan, but never the one mentioned in the opening post.
(Sourcing from Asia via AliExpress, GearBest, ... was not an option as I had a specific time in mind when I wanted to do the mod and the last parcels from China arrived about 2 months late)

So I went ahead and ordered one of the "compatible with" fans.
It turned out to be a "Sunon Maglev MF90201V1-C010-S9A" (a 25mm high, GPU fan of the G750), which offers a housing and connector akin to the one in the opening post.
The connector is still pinned incorrectly, reversed, but you don't actually need to cut and resolder it.
It's just as possible to carefully lift the plastic pieces holding the contacts in place, thereby unlocking the contacts and removing them from the connector.
Afterwards, just insert them back in the correct sequence and you have a fan that looks perfectly fine, without burnt wires or isolating tape.

It's possible to work around the fan colliding with the case by trimming the fan's plastic, i.e. take a multitool and start working on the position of the fan where it collides with the screw mount.
In my situation, the fan was colliding with the screw mount on the very edge of its case.
Grinding it down slightly with a multi tool allowed placing it in the case without significant collision, while also keeping the case's mounting intact.
(As the collision was on the very edge of the case, grinding it down did not even create a hole in the case, as the outer material seems to be quite generous in its thickness)

Closing the F5's case with the 25mm fan inside is possible, but the bottom cover will press on the fan.
This means that it will require the bottom cover mod with drilled holes or even the larger cut ones to allow the fan to get some air.
But it will also be the end of any air cirulation inside the case caused by the fan.
(This device seems built around the idea that the fans create underpressure in the case and the air is sucked in through various holes in the case, thereby cooling the PCH and other parts)
I have drilled several holes in the bottom cover to allow the easier airflow to the GPU fan and realized that this new fan, and probably all fans for the G750's GPU, are laid out a bit differently.
Their center is shifted when compared to the stock fan (and similar ones) resulting in the existing holes covering a bit of fan and a lot of the fan's housing.
After drilling some additional holes, I closed the bottom and fired up my laptop.

My first impressions are:
> they spin up just fine and the EC registers them, so fully working
> the sound characteristic is different, slightly less high pitched
> the fan seems to generate almost not sound at all
> however, in my version of the mod (several drilled holes below the GPU fan), higher fan speeds (95% +) create air turbulence in the case that is about as loud as the previous fans
This air turbulence sounds like a rush of wind and is stopped completely, if I cover the holes with my hand (stopping or massively reducing the air flow)
Considering that I have covered most of the fan's intake area with holes, I assume that my hole pattern (be it the size of the holes or the distance between the holes) is to blame here and going with a cut hole covered by a mesh could solve it.
And yet, I don't want to glue / tape a mesh to my bottom cover in order to cover cut holes, which is why I am returning to my trusty N395.

Performance-wise, they seem to trade blows.
Doing some runs of 3DMark and playing some games, I get similar temperatures that are off by 1°C max (the N395 is 1°C cooler), so I'd give the Sunon one the benefit of the doubt.

 

it would be nice if you could share some photos of the work done

 

I don't have any pictures at hand of the installed fan, but you can find a picture of my bottom case mod here:
*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

And the GPU heatsink mod, which is still working nicely, can be found here:
*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

If it is of any help, I can upload a picture of the reordered connector fan as well, but I think that is not as helpful.

 

Thank you