MSI GE75 worse temps after repaste

Hey
I was getting thermal throttled on 10875H on 99C around 4Ghz

After replacing thermal paste with kryonaut temps are still 99C but the boost clock is very low at 3.5Ghz so it is worse

gpu on load was 70-71 C under load and after kryonaut application it is 72-75C

I have put line on cpu so when it is squished it will cover whole die but on gpu I had to spread because the die is huge

Also msi original had thermal gum on gpu VRM insted of thermal pads what about those?

 

Since the temps are bad I know the application is not good but on my all other laptops and desktops countless repaste this was the worst..

GP73 that i still own has better temps with cheaper MX-4 paste and core to core deltas are also much better

Was the paste too thick or something else.

I have noticed that cpu silicon is wavy when I put straight razor edge I could see the light from so many gaps but I though high quality fresh paste will get me better results.

I am gonna replace thermal paste again what do you think is the best

 

I have the same issue with a 4930MX, All CPU dies aren't straight, they are always a bit wavy. Make sure that the paste wasn't oozing out from the edges, and if it does, you may want to check out your heatsink as some laptops will come with slightly bent heatsinks (like mine,) which can cause uneven contact. Also make sure that you are screwing down the heatsink all of the way and doing each screw 1-2 rotations and not just screwing down one side and then the next. You want even pressure when screwing everything down.

As for the thermal pads being on the GPU VRM's, leave them there. Paste is techincally better, but can be messier and the thermal pads should do a nice job.

 

Edited typo gpu vrm had thermal paste on them but it was like gum more solid paste that you can roll in between your fingers

 

Is this the stock thermal paste or the Kryonaut?

 

This is stock msi stuff. Turns out pretty good still throttling but..

I have repaste with MX-4 since that was left and temps are still bad and specially gpu temp is much worse this time.

I thing I need to do LM on the cpu but gpu has a lot of stuff next to the die I would use paste there

 

I would just try re-applying the Kryonaut on both the CPU and GPU as MX-4 is terrible for laptops. Just be sure to screw everything down evenly.

 

I have to buy another tube.

 

If you have to buy another tube of paste, go with either IC Diamond or Thermalright TFX, they are very viscous pastes, which allows them to not goop off of the edge as easy.

 

Couldnt buy them in my country nowhere sells it. No phobya gelid etc.

Corsair coolermaster stuff is available. And I could buy thermal grizzly which is the highest end stuff I could find.

 

need any better paste
try find last TG 12.5 w/mk ,is more resistant for 90C usage
RED paste

or any lower setup --fast ICCMAX reduction "bios or XTU //TS"
GPU -voltage curve "afterburner"

 

Can you be more specific I do not understand it?

 

https://urun.n11.com/sogutucu-ve-fa...nano-elmas-partikullu-termal-macun-P206370221

 

UP

 

? thermal grizzly last edition "now is red" is better than old "more resistant for 90C usage"

ICCMAX --voltage regulation "fast decease heat"
"controls cpu activity / max cpu speed in full usage" all --current EDP limit
fast temperatures repair "fully adaptive // stable"

your is 160A or more ??? try 140A or similar --core / cache """is one item most time ""

HWINFO / CPU/ here --send screen or info for ICCMAX

IA -core
SA - ram "not raise this never"
GT - iGPU

check data ,.,.,.set lower voltage regulator for CPU ??
XTU // or TS "trothle stop" or in BIOS --X4 --VR domain

100A iccmax -400VR --example

 

I would strongly advise against liquid metal. Liquid metal is for low pressure or uneven pressure heatsinks. Note that I did not say rough or uneven non flat surfaces.

Liquid metal if you've never used it before must have something to grab to otherwise it'll roll around like ball. Meaning you're likely to torch the unit

If the contact is that bad you're options are to use a thick gum like paste like Shin-etsu or some kind of pad either wax or graphite (EYGR or SPGS)

Wen through this just recently with a Thinkpad P15. I could boost all day to 4.9 or 4.6 but the moment a multiform load hit it was instant 3.3-3.7 range. Tried pads, replacement OEM no difference. Returned the unit and got a P1. Better temps and substantially smaller. Can't fix bad designs with paste.

 

Tekrar kryonaut aldım bu sefer orjinallik kartı ve spatulada var kesin orjinal tekrar deneyeceğim.

Well I already have conductonaut but I chickened out and bought kryonaut again and this time I got original one with spatula and will apply again

 

Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano

 

Which site did you get it from.

 

Deniport Hepsiburada is maybe the original. The Coolermaster I sent you as the last resort is real.

 

What? Low pressure or uneven pressure heatsink together with liquid metal is a no, no. @Falkentyne @Mr. Fox

 

Correct Good fit, good results. Poor fit, poor results.

 

Huh what?
LM is for high pressure (e.g. desktop/AIO, copper or nickel plated copper) and flat heatsinks. Low pressure heatsinks are not ideal for LM but it can work IF the mount is perfectly flat. Although technically, all laptop heatsinks are low pressure unless they are socketed LGA. Uneven heatsinks+LM is a complete no-no.

One problem with low pressure heatsinks is the gallium absorption factor into copper (and more slowly into nickel plating), that gets accelerated by high heat.

 

Well cpu is on fire under load...

But if it was just 1c under throttling temp I would be fine but it throttles so heavily thats the issue

Copper LM reaction was the reason I did not apply it. But I am open to any suggestion to lower temps. The copper plate looks polished and very flat the die does not look flat when I put a razor on it but can I or should I sand it with 3000 grit or something like that? How is safety? shiny die surface uhm I have no idea now

 

Test flatness with Fujifilm Extreme Low (I used to think it was "Ultra Low"--that's not low enough!) Prescale pressure paper.
These guys do give free samples but you need to give them a reason for it.

https://www.sensorprod.com/fuji-prescale.php

Or you can buy the OEM version : Innovation Cooling contact test paper but I can't find the link to it anymore anywhere. I think that's Ultra Low Prescale though.

If perfectly flat, wipe the heatsink copper plate with 1500 grit sandpaper (you don't want it too smooth) and then after you do that, take your drop of LM and--if you are NOT DOING THE OVEN METHOD, spend about 10 minutes wiping it completely around the surface. (ALTERNATIVELY, you can just apply and spread normally, then bake the heatsink in an oven at 100C, for 2 hours, like @Papusan recommended, but this clearly won't work on AIO's or anything that isn't a pure heatsink!!!).

If you baked the heatsink, let it cool, remove the LM gently with some lint free microfiber cloth, leaving the silver stain fully intact, then apply a new layer on top, mount and you're good.

If you did not bake the heatsink, spend 10 minutes as above, wiping it completely around the surface, not applying downward pressure, so you avoid getting "metal particles" from copper (which is a soft metal) which will destroy contact integrity, then after 10 minutes, you will notice the LM starts feeling a lot 'thicker' and no longer runs anywhere by itself. Then apply a new drop/layer on top of the old (do not remove the old layer), then mount your heatsink to the CPU. Don't forget polyurethane foam dam barriers or whatever protection you like using.

 

The link to
IC Contact Test Analysis Kit$ 11.99 But out of stock

Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovation...alysis-Kit-For-CPU-GPU-Heatsink-/264362353892

 

LM will repeat often ,..,is absorbed into copper - random dry zones "more problems"
after some re-paste - fully working "It's been a maximum of two years"

but it was probably luck

any better thermal paste .,,.,..is good results and not kill your HW
LM i not recommend "otherwise I use TG-LM"

It's not easy ,,.VR pads need measurement for this !
// isolation

 

On my laptop nvidia gpu vrm and memory components actually had thermal paste rather than thermal pad I am thinking if I remove the thermal pads on cpu VRM and paste it will it put more pressure on cpu or will it just break the alignment

@NeXt3R

I completely gave up on LM so I bought kryonaut paste I will apply it

Checked the pressure sheet but It is absolutely not available in my country even your links were not available.

I am thinking it is not a good design but also they have spring loaded mechanism on the cpu so thermal pads and cpu should be pre set ...

I wish they just used a simple cpu mechanism and vrms would have their own heatpipe with screws

Here is a picture.
Stock paste
https://i.imgur.com/7nUgndg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MRL4jSa.jpg

 

Then use thermal paste to see how it spreads. And don't use much paste for this http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/upgrading-my-ranger.834497/page-54#post-11087492

 

I do not want to leave any corner empty so I put this amount I have seen enaugh benchmarks that more paste is just gonna squish out of the sides and not do anything rather than put little paste and leave an empty corner

 

old thermal grizzly ,..,,.new is RED paste !

edit
performance is similar .,,.but this one dries faster and was very fluid as I remember
,.,.but still is good paste

 

I was not aware of the new one when I bought this. I bought from authorized resaler but this one is also greyish whiteish paste rather than red too

 

The new is branded Extreme. But they still make the standard Kryonaut.

 

I have seen it but only thing that is extreme is the price 285 TRY in my country roughly 35 USD. I am honestly not comfortable paying that much.

 

that's weird,.,. 4USD difference in my country for this
2g packaging

it doesn't matter., the original was such a good paste

 

If you are comfortable with applying and using it: LM will really drive down those temps.

 

I have applied the kryonaut with the included spatula I did a thin spread and hoped it will work. Core to core deltas are very close to each other so I probably did a good application but laptop still throttles like crazy.

Under gpu and cpu load it clocks only 3.3Ghz and gpu is hot to

 

What are you use for testing? Gaming? Or benchmarks?

 

Staxrip is video encoding at the moment and gpu was bound by mining.
Right now i stopped the mining and run a game which suprisingly ran even when cpu is still encoding h265. This is real world usage rather than a benchmark I am afraid .

 

Mining on a thin laptop isn't advised. And encoding while you game will push the unified heatsink to the roof. Hope you have extended warranty.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rs-welcome-too.810490/page-1079#post-11093805

 

I do not think memory will be an issue since memory is working well under spec http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...bps-gddr6-instead-of-14gbps-but-is-it.835918/

And all gpu components memory mosfet choke has thermal paste on it

 

Yeah, all say the same. But many will see or experience the dreaded smoke and fire

Here is one more playing with the fire
https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/...4_components_reliable_enough_for_cpu_and_gpu/

 

Only on tech people say this if i but a car which has internal combustion it will last more than a laptop it is only because planned obsolence and cheaping out laptops can be made very well if something happens it will directly go to warranty gpu and cpu should handle all type of load

 

I'm sure the engineers know the hardware's limits. If the GPU can handle all type of load... Then why change the warranty?

You may dislike MSI even more after reading this. MSI reduces warranty times for twelve Geforce models....It now appears that MSI...

 

Dude, you gotta use Hydronaut. It is recommended for laptops with high temps over 80C. It reduces the chance of pumping out. I have used a lot of pastes and dang, this thing was the best! You just gotta spread it evenly and just put a little bit at the center to be sure. It’s the best!

 

Friends, The Only Solution:
"Cooler Master" Mastergel Maker Nano.
It will be great when you apply it on Vrm, Cpu and Gpu.

"Note: There is no need for Liquid Metal Because there will be no performance increase in Notebooks because the power of the Adapter is limited."

 

I have already repaste with kryonaut . The cpu and gpu is still hot but I am thinking the cooling is just very inadequate

 

Brother Berk, I think some sellers are selling counterfeit products. I bought an Arctic Mx-4 before.It was fake. The inside of such products can be changed. Because it is very easy to pack.
The Cooler Master Mastergel Maker Nano box is original fabricated.Take this if you live in Turkey. I used it very well.

https://urun.n11.com/sogutucu-ve-fa...nano-elmas-partikullu-termal-macun-P206370221

 

Also apply fabricated thermal pads correctly.

 

oem setting ,.,not OC ??
some apps destroy oem setting "TS" or DC contains custom setup for CPU / SYSTEM

undervolt / CLOCK lock - around 90C max
CPU/GPU
fan curve - last two points -150./.