Official MSI GT70 20C Technical & Issues thread....

Okay, this thread if ONLY for technical issues and questions.
No "general" questions like how many drives does it have, etc. etc. I want this thread to ONLY be about specific questions and answers that solves "problems" for us GT70 20C owners, so it doesn't get like the two other threads related to this model containing 99% of worthless info that can be gotten anywhere else.

No "pre-sale" questions either, unless they are technical in nature that are not generally known, like can you mix and match RAM, the needed specs of them, etc.



Specifications:

SKU #1: GT70 2OC-065US
• Windows 8
• Intel® Core™ i7-4700MQ Processor
• 17.3" Full HD Anti-Reflective Display (16:9; 1920 x 1080) (upgradeable to Glossy)
• NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 770M 3G GDDR5
• Matrix Display
• Cooler Boost 2
• Full Color Programmable Backlit Keyboard by SteelSeries
• 1000GB (1TB) 5400RPM Hard Drive (Upgradeable)
• 2 Detachable 2.5" 9.5mm (H) SATA Hard Disk Drives
• 8x DVDRW/CDRW Super Multi Combo Drive (Upgradeable)
• 1 12.7mm (H) Optical Drive Bay, ATA Interface, Interchangeable with ±R/RW Combo drive
• 8GB DDR3 1600MHz System Memory
• Killer™ DoubleShot (Killer™ E2200 + Killer™ Wireless-N 1202) (recommend upgrade to Intel 7260 wireless)
• 3-in-1 Card Reader
• SD / SDHC / SDXC
• 2 x USB 2.0 Ports
• 3 x USB 3.0 Ports
• 1 x HDMI 1.4
• 1 x Mini Display Port
• 1 x RJ45 LAN
• 1 x VGA Port/Mini D-Sub 15-Pin for External Monitor
• 1 x Microphone
• 1 x Headphone Out Jack
• 1 x Line-in Jack
• 1 x S/PDIF
• Built-in 720p HD webcam
• World-Class Dynaudio Premium Speakers
• Audio Boost Technology
• Recommend get IC Diamond Thermal & 30-60 day "No Dead Pixel" Guarantee upgrades.

NOTE: Barebones version of this is advisable if you want to save money and maybe get the GTX780 GPU for less (different model #), but you don't get configurable color keyboard (still is steelseries, only with a blue color), gold plated audio jacks, color/logo jazz, aluminum display back and palm rest, and the much better warranty (you get one year instead of 2, and no accidental damage warrenty).

SKU #2: MSI GT70 2OC-408
SKU #3: MSI GT70 2OC-059

** These two models the only difference I've seen is the amount of RAM or which Hard Drive you get default.
Frankly, I don't see the point of such "default" models in that way, seems pointless.


My Glossy Screen rant....
- Who want's to look through a screen door for hours?
- Matte is not less "strain", it's more if you have good eyes, because your eyes are straining for better clarity trying to focus on the "blur" with the matte.
- Glossy works perfectly fine in high lighting. As long as you are in front of the screen doing your work, you notice the great clarity and your work, not the glare at all after awhile, you just don't notice anymore. The only time glare can be an issue if you put your screen at weird angles etc.
- In a home Glossy works just fine. Most home are not super lighted like Stores are where you are looking at laptops and there is so much glare. But still, right in front actually on the laptop, or a distance properly angled, you see the screen, not glare high lighting or not (unless it's directly shooting behind you, but who has lights like that?).
- Glossy actually works better outside, unknown fact is that matte actually diffuses the light, so you can't see your screen as well. Yes, matte works well in direct sunlight, but who actually uses their gaming laptop in direct sunlight???

In the end, if you like better clarity in all cases and aspects accept direct sunlight (again, who does that, save construction workers and on the beach?), then get a glossy screen. But, apparently the world is weird and people like what they like, so if you like matte, then get it. You're lucky, you don't have to pay the extra chunk of cash for it because stupid laptop makers actually think everyone wants Matte.


Resellers:

Pro-Star [My recommendation] they build and test your system before sending it to you, they are the "cheaper cost" and good service! (well, let's hope, still waiting to see how good)
XoticPC
Power Notebooks
GenTechPC
These others I also here are good...


MSI Websites:
MSI GT60-2OD Official Product Page | Alternate official page
MSI Website
MSI Gaming Website
MSI Mobile Website
MSI Customer Service
MSI RMA Website


Recovery Disks:
DVD1:
DVD2:
DVD3:
DVD4:


Official Manual:
Multi-Language Manual


Drivers:
Latest Win8 64-bit drivers - Windows 7 compatible


Official Software & Drivers: pre-installed
Latest Win8 64-bit software - Win7 compatible


Overclocking:
MSI Afterburner


Temperature/Components Monitoring:
MSI Afterburner
CPU-Z
GPU-Z


Benchmarking:
3D Mark Vantage CPU & Graphics
3D Mark 11 CPU & Graphics
Unigine Heaven Graphics
ATTO Disk Benchmark Storage
Crystal Disk Benchmark Storage


Warranty: Thanks to -=$tR|k3r=-

All notebooks come with:
MSI 2 Year North America Limited Warranty / 1 Year Global Warranty
One Year Accidental Damage Protection Included

Don't overlook MSI's warranty requirements folks! Registering the notebook is simple enough, but requires an extra step beyond 'online' registration. After doing this online, you will receive an email that states:

Note: Your product registration is not complete until we receive your proof of purchase in the mail, which will not only confirm your product's warranty, but will also update your warranty's expiration date in our system.
I point this out because according to MSI's website, they must receive this within 30-days from the 'date of purchase'..... so don't delay! Also, after completing this process, I recommend later logging back onto the registration site, to follow-up on your warranty 'status'.

Reviews:




Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: I can't sign in to Games For Windows Live.
A: You need to update the Bigfoot LAN. Find it under Drivers in the download section above. Note: Latest as of 09/14/2012 is version 6.1.0.383

Q: My laptop cannot recognize the webcam!
A: Enable it with Fn+F6

Q: The screen dims automatically when on battery power
A: Disable Intel's Power Saving Technology from the iGPU control panel (Intel control panel) under power options->on battery.

Q: I get stuttering / microstuttering while playing games
A: Use a frame limiter set to 61 fps in MSI Afterburner (See \/\/\/\/\/\- The Official MSI GT60-2OD Owner's Lounge -/\/\/\/\/\/ for details)


-----

p.s. Thanks to xMar99, copied his format. Why re-invent the wheel?

Also, everyone out there please help me fill out the above information by posting to this thread with the needed info. I will still put up the "general" stuff like links and such, so you don't need to help me there. So, things like Restore Disks, reviews you find, etc., I will likely need help with.
Thanks all....

Oh, and my system is going to be here about the beginning of next week, got the GT70 20C-065US.
Let's hope for the best. UPDATE: UPS says it will be here by Friday. Cool, 5 days turn-around, ordered it Monday morning (though I'm just 2 states over), hopefully everything works.

REMEMBER.... NO GIBBER-JABBER..... POST REAL CONTENT / INFO....!!!!
(that means you too ryzeki)

 

Interesting thread. Maybe we can add the issue with Killer card when using blutetooth and wifi that seems to cause problems? Users mentioned issues with the Killer card and I don't know if there has been any new drivers addressing such situation.

I will check more into it and then add the info in this post, to not add clutter

 

Post the info my friend, don't just talk about it..... Remember, no jibber-jabber. :tongue:

What I would like to see:

1. Current owners of these laptops to post some problems and how they resolved them
2. Over-clocking to a safe level
3. Correct methodology for re-pasting
4. Just anything that has to do with using their computer and it staying good and functioning the best.

Also, those who have used the other newer models for which the design, programs etc. might be exactly the same, feel free to post your fixes also. It took me a couple of hours reading just one of the other threads, man that was tiring. I might have to do it again, as well read the other thread and take notes.

 

Wireless drops for the Intel Wireless-AC Dual Band 7260.....

Updating to the latest drivers doesn't help, tried changing power profiles. Anyone have a fix to this?
This is actually the third computer, all with different cards in them, but all Windows 8 that won't work.
It's some design flaw with newer cards and Win8 and certain Routers apparently. People all over the net are having problems, with few solutions.
Some apparently get things to work if they go to Win 7 and use a particular driver, some apparently change some power profile settings, but no dice for me yet.

This is serious junk, terrible quality control, anyone have any solutions?

 

Been away for a while, what bluetooth/wifi issue are you referring to? I use bluetooth and wifi/phone hotspot all the time and the only issue I've had was my bluetooth mouse going to sleep and not waking back up. However that was a easy fix solved a while ago.

 

It's just one out there related to the Killer cards.... I've seen it too. It's one reason I chose the Intel, but clearly they are having it too.
From what it looks like so far it entirely depends on the router a person is using. They somehow missed the compatibility with something, and they been trying to figure it out apparently for a year now. It's primarily an issue with Win8 and intel based wireless chips. It's happening with Atheros cards also, not sure if they have any Intel in them.

Anyway, it looks like there is no "real" fix for this issue save a different router, I've exhausted everything. Unfortunately, that's really not reasonable because other laptops work fine, and it's not my router, and he won't let me touch it even if I wanted to add my own router which not sure would still fix the issue. I sadly might just have to be sending the laptop back.... for repair. They could maybe send me a different card and I could try that, but it's under the keyboard right, and I really wished to keep my computer intact. Man..... friggaroni...!

 

Interesting, the only reason I can come up with why you're haveing problems and I'm not is #1 I clean install every pc I own and #2 I'm not using bigfoots Bluetooth driver. I had connection issues on my old acer w700 and I had to do the same thing.

I deleted the provided Bluetooth driver, restarted and a generic driver is loaded. Then I used windows update to update the generic driver to a atheros driver windows update suggested. This solved my bluetooth mouse from falling asleep and not turning back on and any connectivity issues.

 

------

Wireless Dropping issues Resolution Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 & likely helps for other other cards (wide issue)..... See Conclusion below!

Alright.... Finally have "sort of" solved this thing.

1. Set 802.11n channel width for band 2.4mhz to - AUTO
2. Set Roaming Aggressiveness to - HIGHEST
3. The wireless has been now connecting to 802.11g "g" not "n", and I've had perfect connection.

Clearly 802.11n "n" is the problem.... Now, it could be that my router is simply selecting "g" for the moment, I don't know, there isn't a setting in Advanced for disabling 802.11n in the Intel Wireless-AC Dual Band 7260.

Anyone know how to disable the "n" in the 7260?
Did setting the "Auto" above simply make it connect to the best network?
I've set these settings before and they did nothing. Of course, I was still connecting to the "n" network, not "g" so I'm guessing the "n" network is the problem with certain routers and intel and otherwise cards especially on Win8 (some also apparently on Win7 depending on driver).

I need to know how to disable the "n" on my end just in case the router and laptop decides to connect to the "n" network again. I can disable through the router, telling it to only use the "b & g" networks, but if this happens in the future like if I travel, or if my roommate who's a jerk decides to change the box login (he doesn't know I've went in, and not telling him because he is a jerk (long story) ), I need to be able to stop my computer using the "n" network.

Anyway, I've confirmed, tested 2 hours now, it's working, not a single noticed drop. But, this is only a workaround, I guess I'm loosing internet speed/strength by not connecting to the "n" network?

So INTEL..... Please fix whatever is wrong with your "n" network connection and certain mainstream routers.
Again, I'm on a CenturyLink router now.

Also, I'm using the default Microsoft driver 16.0.0.62..... although, I don't think it matters which I use, since it's clearly the "802.11n" that is at issue, so as long as I don't connect with that, I'm good.

UPDATE..... Installed "InSSIDer for Home" Wireless monitor and it's saying I'm connected to "n" not "g"???
Or is that just telling me what my router is capable of? I don't think so right??? Doesn't make sense, Windows in Task Manager is telling me I'm connected to "g"?

UPDATE 2.... Turns out the above is okay.

UPDATE 3..... Well....... It looks like I spoke too soon yet again, though not as bad as last time.

The Wireless even in "g" mode still "drops" for a little bit then comes back on. But, it only seems to do it about once every 30-60 minutes. I did a download large file test this time, and this is how I know it dropped because the download failed, couldn't find host anymore, after checking the log. It tried like 5 times before giving up, so I know the connection was lost.

Maybe I will install the latest driver and see if I can have a good or better connection with these settings?

UPDATE 4..... Okay, I also discovered that helping to prevent any "dropping" with the above, use the "InSSider Home" program and it will show you which Radio Channel/Frequency is the most free, thus less networks overlapping yours, and that also has almost eliminated dropping. I'm going to try and set the Advanced settings in the Driver to the other Ghz instead of 2.4 and see if I can even get a better connection or even if it will work since it's an "n" network also?

------


Resolution & Conclusion Instructions to get your connection working.....

My internet is working now for the most part, so here's what you need to know for at least this card, and maybe some steps might work in other cards with these issues until the drivers can actually be fixed. This is only a "work-around" not a true resolution, but you will have internet, which is the important thing.

1. In Win 8.1 the default Microsoft driver is 16.0.0.62 (don't download the updated one when doing Win Update as of this writing anyway). Can't remember the latest file in Win8 (think it's a 15.xxx), or if these fixes will work in it. There is a page at Intel however that you can download most versions, but they don't seem to list this one, maybe it's in the first 16.xxx version that contains this exact driver #??? This is the ONLY driver I was able to get to work, latest, others, etc. I couldn't get to work "yet" anyway. I didn't test on Win 8 most of this stuff, save some general settings and trying different updated drivers. But, I suspect it will also work in Win8 if you get the right driver.

2. Go into PC Info/Device Manager/Properties of the Wireless Card.

3. Change 2.4Ghz from 20Mhz to AUTO.

4. Change Roaming Aggressive to Lowest or Highest. I've found that Lowest might actually be a better connection? There might still be the once an hour or so average disconnect, at least on Highest (still testing the Lowest setting, but seems good so far, no drops after 3 hours which is DOUBLE the longest I've ever gone without a drop). But a simple Troubleshoot/right clicking on connection icon bottom right of your screen will restore connection again if you ever do drop.

5. Everything else remains the same.

6. Not sure if this is absolutely necessary, but it helped a lot when I had the setting to "Highest" per above. Google and Download "InSSider Home" which is free, go to network and see which channel has the least "overlap". Of course, you must change to that channel in your router. Log into your router per instructions under most routers or see router docs online. Most are set to Auto or something else that everyone else is using, so that will clear your connection a lot. I had to change from channel 9 to 6.

7. Now, the only issue with this method is that it may be only from now on connecting you to the "G" connection of your router, rather than the higher and newer "N". Still not sure on this, haven't and can't test fully to see if the "n" network will also work with this setup.

8. This issue seems to be caused with several "newer" wireless cards from several makers and computer manufacturers and primarily Windows 8 (rare with Win7), being a driver/compatibility issue that they've been trying to fix for at least a year now, and it only seems to occur with certain routers customers have (even mainstream, for example I'm on a CenturyLink modem/router). It doesn't happen for everyone and rarely on Win 7, so hopefully this will be fixed one day, so we can use our full speeds and reliably. Also, unless you have the most super speed wireless on the planet, you won't miss the "n" speeds if it doesn't actually work at the moment. 5Ghz connection is also untested.... So, not sure how well it does. Only so far have connected to my home which uses 2.4Ghz.

You should have a working wireless Internet connection now, rarely dropping....

-------

So hear's the latest.....

I just went 30 hours with only one disconnect I believe, just had to right click on the Wireless Icon and Troubleshoot, and it cleared the connection.
So, it seems you just have to do this every once in awhile, and it varies greatly the timeline. Like today after a several hours rest, I just turned the computer on, it worked and then it just disconnected. I might now go for awhile, or it could occur again, and then it work for awhile, just depends.

Also QOS and WMM are enabled... on the router which is the router defaults, to make sure there is no confusion. And the "Lowest" setting in Roaming Aggressiveness in the Driver Advanced setting seems to work better I would guess than the Highest setting.
At least this is a reasonably working work around, I have internet at least, and that's what's important.
Though, it's kinda messed up that Intel didn't create this fix....

I got it work in about 3-4 days.... Intel needs to read this thread and see that this is close to a full fix. They should be able to fix the problem with the information and work I've provided in this thread.

 

Download Site: MSI Global GT70 2OC

Minimum Drivers & Utilities to Install..... (current versions) working with Windows 8.1 RTM as of 9/23/2013 (for Win8 just do the defaults if installing separate, though your image will be set already if you're doing that way)

- Your updated Wireless and Lan Drivers.... (I got the Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 and my particular router doesn't work right with newer cards and Win8, so I had to use Microsoft's default driver 16.0.0.62 see my other instructions)
( I had to get the Win 8.1 compatible Killer Lan Drivers from (Station-Drivers.com) Killer didn't have it, and MSI's will not install on 8.1, see this driver)
- Atheros Bigfoot Lan Ke220xSuite_1.0.30.1259_Win7_Win8_Win81.exe (find it at Station-Drivers.com)
- Intel 4600 & Nvidia Graphic Drivers (Windows Update)
- Intel Chipset from Intel Intel® Chipset Device Software 9.4.0.1026
- Intel Management Engine me_9.0.0.1287_8700.zip (maybe not install updated from Intel, some say OEM's sometimes make changes to said file, not sure if MSI has??? use this MSI version though, it works)
- CardReader cardreader_rts5227_rts5249_6.2.9200.21219_8700.zip
- Nvidia Graphic GTX 770 or whatever latest Driver/Software from Nvidia 327.23-notebook-win8-win7-64bit-international-whql.exe (windows update didn't give control panel for the card, thus it wouldn't work right, so install the 8.1 version from nvidia to get it working right)
- SuperCharger, apparently allows you to charge your devices faster with the USB charging port. Sort of optional.

Everything else seems to be "optional" extra's....

- KLM software (from MSI works) if you want different colors on your keyboard, otherwise default installed driver gives you a "white" lighted keyboard, with key bottom row keys in purple and green, including the gaming keys lighted only option.

- Sound Blaster Cinema (& EQ version, not sure I understand this one, doesn't seem to install, maybe it's not compatible yet with 8.1?) If you want a little more configuring and "slightly" better sound, you can install Cinema from MSI.

....and the rest optional.... and things like Hybrid Power, Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver's apparently already in Windows, should be fine, and SCM is apparently not needed, just manages your updates, installs...

Anyway, the above works with Win 8.1 RTM..... Enjoy.

 

Well DANGET.....!!!!!

I've discovered that my work-around for the Wireless dropping issue doesn't actually work as I thought.

It turns out that if you stop "pinging the internet" such as listening to music, playing a game, or using a Connection Monitor program that sends out pings to check connectivity, the wireless WILL STILL DROP... very often and usually briefly, and it's irritating, you have to refresh webpages quite often.

Thus, the Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 wireless dropping issue is NOT RESOLVED...!!!!!

This is the ONLY RESOLUTION......

Basically, to "rarely" disconnect you have to use the above driver version with the original settings I mention and an " Internet Connectivity Monitor" and have it ping a website once every second (by that name also is the only one I've found to work) to stay connected to the internet.
I even got a NetGear wireless extender, and while the computer almost never disconnected from it, you could see it constantly disconnecting from the router, and thus you would have disconnects.
So, the issue is with the newer generation wireless technology and certain crappy routers. Mines a CenturyLink made by ActionTec. It's also an issue with drivers, but, it's more the newer tech and poor router design.

 

Greetings! I posted this in the main GT70-20C thread with no luck, figured I'd give it a shot here

Original post:
GT70-2OC, Windows 7.

Hi guys, I have a strange problem with connecting an external monitor. I picked up an external monitor and when it's connected through the regular (VGA) port the monitor flickers slightly ONLY when I have something running on either screen such as a game or even a full screen video. When it's just the desktop, or even a regular website like this forum - no flickering. But as soon as I start a game like Warcraft, it flickers. If I minimize everything, no flicker.

Brand new monitor. I also have a desktop, and when connecting that same monitor to the desktop, it works perfect, no flicker no matter what I do. The monitor doesnt have HDMI connection. I can't return the monitor, because if they test it on anything it will work perfect.

The laptop screen itself never flickers.

I've checked all the connections a million times.

Using the HDMI to my TV, no problems at all, no flicker.

It "seems" like it just doesn't have enough power to run the 2nd monitor with anything that uses graphics or something.

I'm a total newb, so any info would be appreciated!

EDIT: I updated my driver tonight to the latest beta driver on the NVIDIA website, same issue.

 

Are you doing extended view? Or clone view?
You can also try setting your external display as your primary display and see how it is.

 

Have you tried other, shorter, cables?

 

I use the extended display, but it does happen the same when using as primary display.

I used the same cable testing the monitor with my desktop and no flicker, but I will try a shorter cable incase it doesn't get along with this particular laptop.

 

Hi,

My CPU core temperatures are reaching 90 degree Celsius. Is it fine gaming at such temperature.

 

No, that is NOT a good temp.... You should have it repasted with a good paste, maybe send it back to where you got it so it's done right with a high quality paste and they test it before sending it back. Contact whomever you got it from and broach the issue with them.

 

That's too high for CPU, you should check the thermal paste and make sure the laptop has good ventilation and placed on a clean tabletop.

 

Well, finally have a working internet.....!!!! Here's what I did.

I have a CenturyLink Router (made by ActionTec), I bought 3 different computers Acer, Lenovo, & MSI. All three had different wireless card models from two different company's, Intel and Atheros. I also bought 3 different Wireless extenders 2 NetGears and 1 Belkin. ALL of these devices would have constant wireless dropping and disconnect issues, no matter what settings what drivers, etc. I couldn't call CenturyLink because it wasn't my router or service, but roommates who wasn't really reasonable to deal with.

My roommate had an old router but not too old (maybe year 1/2) he used with his previous service. He at least allowed me to hook that up connecting an Ethernet cable from one of the CenturyLink LAN ports to a LAN port of the second router, and I now have a working wireless internet connection. BUT BEFORE I made that connection, I connected the second router by Ethernet to my computer LAN to LAN, went into settings manually through the browser (follow the instructions for that router for going into your settings i.e. 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 typed in your browser and login indicated on the bottom of most routers), turned off the DHCP of the second router, set my own SSID and pw on the second router (using WPA2 AES security, and be sure to use a "different" SSID from your main router (i.e. name of your wireless network), because you will be connecting to this one instead), and then connected the 2nd router to the CenturyLink router with the cable per above, and I'm working.

Here's instructions: How to connect router to another router

2 months of some 5 hours a day working on this, and I finally got a working internet connection.

Conclusion..... People having this problem simply need to:

1. get their ISP to give them a working router
2. get a different router themselves, verify with the ISP the required settings/login info, or
3. get another router and hook it up LAN to LAN as I just did. That is the best way.

Note that when I was using the Wireless Extenders, I seemed to have a great connection from the computer to the Extender. But the connection was just as bad from the Extender to the CenturyLink router. So, the problem is the new generation wireless systems and certain crap routers, even different extenders couldn't communicate well with the router. Drivers do have a play because the wireless disconnected once on my computer side, though that may have just been the wireless itself, not on my side, but they aren't the real problem, the router is. I'm still using the 16.0.0.62 driver, though I will try the latest update to see if that works still also.

BTW, the 2nd router is a NetGear, and I'm actually connecting to the 2nd routers wireless, hence my setting up the SSID and pw per above, though the internet is going through the original router. Doing what I've done is what's called setting up an "Access Point", which means exactly what it means, using another router for extra internet access points, so you can connect additional computers up to the 2nd routers LAN ports or go through the wireless as I set up. Oh, I also set a different wireless broadcast channel on the 2nd router. Most are set to Auto, so that might effect things, so you might want to set the channel on your original router to something else other than auto and other than the channel the 2nd router is using. Not sure if this is important, but I think so, because the routers being close together the signals can conflict. So, using two different signals/channel would be best. Even better, if you use the inSSider home program I mentioned in another post above, you can see which channels are least used and pick the best channels. Note, you pick the ones which give you least "overlap", i.e. same channels other wireless are using. I set one to 6 and one to 11.

Also, one note about overlapping wireless signals/channels. In the inSSIDer program you see none are using say channel 7 for example. Well, it's actually not good to set a router to channel 7 because you will actually end up overlapping more wireless signals, the ones from say set at 11 and those set at 6. The program will show you how many signals you are overlapping.

Good luck all.....

 

I am having an issue with my webcam...it had error code 45 and wouldnt register i have a webcam attached at all although its build in...can someone please tell me how to fix this and a link to update or redownload the driver so i can resolve this?

 

Try hitting Fn and F6, remove the device if it's detected.

 

BLUETOOTH PROBLEM
I have had my GT70 for about 3 months now and had been trying to self resolve this issue with no progress. I get very poor Bluetooth signal when I pair my Bluetooth headphones. When I pair the same headset with other devices such as my iPhone, iPad, PS4, and another laptop I have no problem. But with my GT70 I get weak signal and audio skips horrible or doesn't play at all through the headphones. radio is AR3012 Bluetooth 4.0+HS. Please assist. My GT70 is running Win 8, if that matters. Thanks. < --------SEE PIC

 

Hello I have a MSI GT70 2OC, My touch panel just stopped working. It doesn't light up when i put my finger on it. I haven't updated anything I turned off my computer and come back the next day and can't turn on the fan or anything on it.


nvm, I fixed the problem...

 

SCM issue?

 

No, It was an EC issue, resetting the EC resolved my problem.

 

Have you updated it to the newest version?

 

No, I have not.

 

Can you try the EC update?

 

Firmware update issue:

The newest firmware for the GT70 2OC (same version for Windows 7, 8 and 8.1) is Version 1513.

When I follow all the steps to update the firmware, everything appears to proceed seamlessly. However, when I actually go into the BIOS to check the firmware version, I do NOT have 1513... I actually have 1333. I called msi and they said this means I have a fault firmware chip and should RMA the laptop. However, I want to know if any of you have experienced this before I subject myself to all the hassles.

Thank you.

 

When you finished updating the firmware, did you perform EC reset by disconnecting AC and battery for 10 seconds?
Can you also provide a picture showing the faulty firmware version number?

 

Yeah with regards to the EQ vs. AP thing.... the folks at msi are just completely stupid. I've called them multiple times and complained that they have a "dead" file in their utility section. Many tech's have observed that my complaint is legit, yet they seem to lack the internal communication capability to have the people who run the website remove that EQ crap, which, as you said, doesn't work at all.

 

Yes I did perform the EC reset, as per the instructions... I've tried 3 times so far and actually last night, on my last try, I unplugged the AC adapter, removed the battery and left the laptop in that state overnight (in order to ensure that any residual static charge would dissipate) and this morning I fired it up again to check the version and still saw the old version.

 

Your BIOS and EC version are correct, look at the top.
You were referring to ME version which is also fine.
Nothing further you need to do here.

 

OMG I'm an idiot.... and I love how you were able to see this so easily and yet actual msi tech support employees were baffled even though I sent them the same screenshot. Thanks so much for the help!

 

You are most welcome.

 

I really appreciate all this hard work you've done... I've also been plagued by this issue for a year, although it does seem to have improved significantly since newer drivers came out. Do you think that if we were to dole out the money on a proper AC router so that we are using AC bandwidth instead of N, G, etc., then the connection would be more reliable?

 

Kevin, I was also having a touchpad issue... it was giving really erratic behaviour. I updated the EC and that totally fixed the issue.

Also, my GT70 2OC shipped with BIOS version 507 and when I updated from Win 8 -> 8.1, I got an unresponsive BIOS (as in, I couldn't navigate through the menus using the keyboard).... so then I updated to version 50W and now everything works perfectly. I figured I would tell you this because when I called msi, they said it is NOT a known issue for BIOS 507 to be incompatible with Win8.1.....

**ugh sorry, I replied with the wrong quote... I meant to continue the discussion you were having with Charater here:

[[Hello I have a MSI GT70 2OC, My touch panel just stopped working. It doesn't light up when i put my finger on it. I haven't updated anything I turned off my computer and come back the next day and can't turn on the fan or anything on it.


nvm, I fixed the problem...]]

 

I am wondering WHY there are 2 different BIOS update procedures on msi's website. I looked through both of them and one seemed extraordinarily complicated and most prone for error (and the likely outcome of bricking the BIOS if the consumer can't follow the instructions properly), while the other was dead simple and involved very few steps. I followed the simple procedure and updated my BIOS without issue, but I'm wondering whether I've "missed out" somehow by now having followed the other procedure?

Look under the Windows 8 heading at this link:
MSI Global - Computer, Laptop, Notebook, Desktop, Motherboard, Graphics and more

I followed the steps for option #2 (shell mode), since the steps in option #1 (EFI BIOS utility) looked extremely laborious....

Any idea why these two methods are here?

 

One has AHCI set as default, which is the 5XX.
The other one has RAID set as default, which is the 7XX.
Both BIOS is the same except the default SATA mode, and you still can manually change between AHCI <--> RAID options by going into the BIOS setup.

 

I'm a first time owner of any MSI brand laptop. I recently picked up a GT70 2OC and so far i'm loving it. I'm having a problem with it that was probably on-going with the first owner of the device. I'm not sure if the previous owner had spilled anything on this laptop but the "I" key is not working at all and on occasion the "R" key when pressed will input "4R" instead of just an "R". I don't think the R key problem is from a spill as it fixes itself sometimes. When the keyboard is working properly the only problem I have with it is the "I" key not typing at all. When the keyboard isn't working properly the "R" key will add "4R" as well as the backspace key will remove 1 character and replace it with the "]" symbol. The backspace will not work after it's been pressed once and when held it will continue to add the "]" symbol until released. Anyone ever seen this before? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

You can contact MSI to ship the system in for service, but if they find any trace of liquid they will charge you for the repair though.
Sure you wouldn't want a laptop with a non-working key on the keyboard.

 

HI GUYS, My GT70 2OC 5 USB port stopped working when I boothed my laptop up this morning, I have tired to uninstal the usb/controller drives but that did not help. PLEASE ANY SOLUTION. I am so frustrated. cant use my laptop properply. please reply if you can help

 

hi there , i m havibg issues with my killer e2200 ethernet driver, it says windows failed to upload the driver.
i have tried to install the latest driver but to no avail, my wifis seems to be working fine but not the ethernet cable.
i have takes several step to identify the problem,
I have checkd the both end of Lan wires and they are fine no pin damaged or anything

 

Check device manager and make sure there are no device without driver, or device with exclamation symbol.

Have you used Killer cleaner first to remove the driver first? And then download the newest version to install and try.

 

Thank you so much foryur reply. No, i havent used it before actually if i could get the link for it, i would really appreciate that

 

Cleaner & Latest driver here.

 

Hi, there i m not sure if its the driver or the killer suite software.
whenever i run it to test the speed, it gets stuck unless i press open the detaul butoon and look that the speed test is going inbackgrond than after a while i can see it says killer network timed out

 

Hi all

Could i ask a quick question pls as MSI support was a painful brush off, imho dell have far superior support (in my experience, so far....) yes i had an alienware 18 3D, r3 gtx 780m sli, awesome machine. Anyway, now im in a gt70 20c with gtx 770m.

What i need help with is, and tech support bailed out on me, is can i upgrade to gtx 870m? i know i can but what i mean more specifically is will i need a new psu/ drivers/ bios/ bigger fan or anything else that you could perhaps advise me on?

The shop i intend to buy this from say as there was less than a yesr between these gpu hitting the shops and therefore it should be a straight pnp. They say the bios and drivers etc should be just fine although they said i should use the 870m heatsink.

Is this true?

Tyvm in advance

edit....
my machine is a late 2013 gt70, bios ver E1763IMS.50C, nvidia driver ver 358.91.

 

I would jump all the way to the 970M if you can, it runs a lot cooler, you would need a new heatsink for that card too.

The 870M fits with the 770M heatsink I believe, I would update to the latest firmware from MSI.

A 180W PSU is needed for either card.

 

Guys,

how do i check my ec firmware version?

tyvm in advance

 

Reboot the PC, and press & hold the DEL key to enter BIOS setup.
Go to System Information under the main setup screen and you will see both BIOS/EC versions including their compile dates.