QUICK FIX: 802.11ac router recommendation (2015)

The standards are announced loooong before they're actually finalized.

In fact, hardware generally starts being released around the time the standard is finally finished. Most of the articles about the "new" 802.11ac were published in 2012/2013.

So, based on that, expect 802.11ax to be common in about three years...

 

A look inside Google's new OnHub wireless router

http://www.theverge.com/2015/8/26/9211513/a-look-inside-googles-new-onhub-wireless-router

 

Is it worth buying R7500 over R7000? The price difference is only ~$9 where i live

 

@trikst3r Actually no, it's not wort it - R7500 has worse range on both bands compared to R7000 and worse throughput especially on 5GHz band. So I'd rather get R7000.

 

What's your view I the d7000? It looks like the r7000 with an added modem. It is literally just that?

 

D7000 has an entirely different SoC although also made by Broadcom and slightly different wireless radio chips.
You can't say it's good because R7000 is good but it can be on its own accord.

 

Is that mean the D7000 it is not good as good as the R7000?

I am in the same boat. Preference to get modem/router instead of router.

Do have the same question about if any difference between Archer R7 and D7 ?

Was thinking to get the archer vr900 - Do you think it is overkill?

Basically after reading little bit everywhere I between the D7, the D 7000 or Archer VR900 or any suggestion for a modem/router ?

Thanks for the help community.

 

@lesteph
I assume you mean the difference between Archer C7 and D7 - these are identical as long as both are used as routers but completely different when D7 is used as modem. That's because Archer D7 has two SoCs - QCA for routing (paired with 128MB RAM) - that's identical to Archer C7 - but D7 also has a Baroadcom chip that integrates modem paired with 64MB RAM (Broadcom chip far slower than QCA one)
So if you bought Archer D7 and used it as a router only it would be pretty much identical to C7 but the moment you connect it as a modem it's an entirely different product - not only the CPU is far slower but even made by a different manufacturer, and you use only half the RAM you would had it been used as a router.

As for the VR900 it also used two separate chips - both from Broadcom this time - unlike Netgear D7000 which uses a single Broadcom made chip for both routing and a modem - in theory Netgear's solution should be better but I haven't tested it so I can't be sure.

I would not buy an Archer D7 and choosing between Netgear D7000 and an Archer VR900 I would probably got for Netgear but there is not a lot of information here...

On a different note- buying a separate modem and router is a better solution since you can use 3rdparty firmware on routers (but not on modem-routers) so if you run into trouble and there is no firmware update from the manufacturer, you can always migrate to DD-WRT or OpenWRT and solve the issue.

 

Thanks downloads ; appreciate your help and sorry for my English and the draft style.
I am based in the UK and was put off by choosing separate router and modem as I am not an expert and afraid that the separate solution involve more complex settings.

So let say I go for the R7000 (as it still seems the best choice at the moment) . what modem would you suggest available in the UK?

Any specific advise to be as simple as possible?

 

What type of connection do you use? ADSL?

 

Yes ADSL. but best would be to find an VDSL/ADSL modem if I want to change in the future. but if not possible will go for ADSL2 modem.

I was looking for a modem only but did not find anything except modem/router.
And when I checked at the spec there is no mention of the chipset.
I read here and there better to get a modem from the UK instead US as the UK one are already OK for the UK isp.

 

As far as I know ADSL Annex A is used in the UK meaning any Annex A modem will work fine.
Here is a list of Broadcom-based modem and routers: http://wiki.kitz.co.uk/index.php/BCM_routers

Mind you you can get a modem-router and use it as a modem (by bridging it) and connect it to a wireless router that will be responsible for routing only. The point is to avoid a situation where a device doing routing can't be updated to 3rd party firmware. Modem or combo device simply be bridged as the modem part is very unlikely to be troublesome.

That said if you find it all to complicated, you can just ignore it entirely and buy a nice device like the aforementioned Netgear.

 

Do have a lot of questions. Sorry if they are naive

How do I know which one is a modem only in this list? All the modem and modem/router in this list do have a good ADSL modem?

I do have a modem/router which is the Brithbox2. Do you know if the modem any good ? if yes I could use it on Bridge mode (if it is the way to do it? However no idea how to do it.)

In fact if I am thinking of changing the router it is because I have an issue with my HI-FI internet radio (Ruark R7 in 2.4ghz band) and I don't know if it comes from the internet or the radio. however, I noticed that with my SONOS in 5ghz band I experienced far less issues.

When I listen the internet radio on the Ruark, after few minutes the radio cuts and buffering (eg I can see the buffering memory from the radio going down until it cuts before it goes up and down again). How could I be sure where the issues come from?

 

All of the modems and modem-routers on this list are based on Broadcom chips and these are the best as far as ADSL goes. You would have to google each to confirm if it's just a modem or a modem router - I do recognize some of them immediately but even I don't recall all of them.
That said it doesn't matter much - you buy whatever is the cheapest Broadcom based device be it a modem or a modem-router and put it in a bridge mode. It's usually a setting that's available under "Encapsulation" - typical you have a choice between PPPoA, PPPoE, Static IP, Dynamic IP and Bridge Mode. It's usually available on main configuration screen where you also set VPI, VCI, and ISP provided username and password.

Considering you already have a 802.11ac modem-router it all seems very unnecessary though. No wonder you are having issues in 2.4GHz band - it's cluttered by dozens of Wi-Fi networks as well as Bluetooth, cordless phones, child monitors and quite a few proprietary wireless technologies. Replacing a router won't change that.

I would advise you to use an application like inSSIDer and adjust the wireless channel you are using accordingly (to a less cluttered one). Since inSSIDer will only show Wi-Fi networks but not other non-Wi-Fi devices working on 2.4GHz range, it might require some trial and error as some channels that are relatively free in terms of Wi-Fi might be used by other 2.4GHz devices. So find some channels that seem free(ish) and test them. Remember to reboot your router after each change.

 

I have considered updating the recommendation with other routers including a TP-Link Archer C8 and a Netgear R6400 for affordable routers and some 3200 routers at the top end but decided against it.
So far it's easy to find more expensive devices than these recommended but hard to find justification for such an increase in price.

So for now I'm sticking to those two. I will revisit it once more at the beginning of 2016 and will reconsider introducing a 3200 router.

 

As far AC routers , theres is many things that can be said, here is WikiDevi, this is a fairly comprehensive list of wifi routers and there specifications. I got a TP-Link C5 AC WIFi Router with 2 yr warranty, no problems what so ever.

https://wikidevi.com/wiki/Main_Page

Cheers
3Fees

______________________________________________________
Acer 15.6 Win 10 Pro,1920x1080, Intel Broadwell-Core i5 Core 5200u/HD5500G, 16GB 1600Mhz, Nvidia 940M w 2GB, Samsung 840EVO(850Pro inbound),Qualcomm Atheros 802.11ac wave 2

 

Quick update on the C2. Since I ended up grabbing a copy of Wolfenstein: The New Order this weekend, the 40+ GB download managed to push it more closely to it's absolute limit: 25.1 MB/s while being around 6 feet from the router. Ideally in about tow or three years we would end up having 50MB/s speed on wireless at the same bargain price, but I doubt the producers are so eager to give us so much performance at such a low price for now

 

Got myself a Netgear R7500 AC2350 router! Was like £120 whereas it retails for £145 so couldn't stop myself! Should be a massive upgrade over my crappy broadband provider's Zyxel router!

 

I never saw this thread before. I've been using a TrendNet TEW-812DRU for over a year and I have no complaints with it. The initial shipping firmware dropped the connection a LOT and DD-WRT was too slow but they finally released a patch for the stock firmware and I haven't had to reset that router a single time ever since. Regularly see 19-22MB/s depending on the Comcast (we pay for 150Mbps but it is over-provisioned and since we have a 16 channel DOCSIS modem while most have 4 and 8 still, we never have issues) and my router is upstairs in the office and I'm in the basement.

 

I just bought an AC-68U myself. I couldn't pass up the offer from T-Mobile for 107 with tax. My roommate keeps throwing a fit about my TrendNet dropping out and it definitely does - but only with Apple devices using the 5GHz band. Nothing else in the house has problems but his Apple TV, iPhone, and iPad drop out and he screams about how terrible our Comcast is (since February we have had a whopping two outages, one of them in the middle of the night when most normal people would be sleeping) so hopefully the AC-68U shuts him up. The external antennae should help the range situation quite a bit too. Maybe we will finally see speeds over 70Mbps on the 2.4GHz band...

 

I use Xiaomi Mi Mini Wireless AC router. It's the cheapest 802.11ac router available, yet quite compact, has good range and speed, and I didn't encounter any problems with it except for switching from Chinese to English right after purchase which took quite some googling. Unlike Netgears recommended here in sub-$50 range, it's 2x2; however, it has 100mbps Ethernet ports, which may be a limiting factor for some.

 

Off topic: where is downloads.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I presume that means I should refresh this guide?
I won't be able to do this till the end od August due to the amount of work, but I will refresh it with new models in September.

 

I keep checking for the any update on this thread. But were invisible so that's why i posted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah the 100Mbps ports would kill that option for me. We have 150Mbps right now that peaks around 200 and sustained is around 170 and Contact may be bumping our market to 250.

I really hope the AC-68U fixes the issues. I got into it with my roommate last night when his desktop got knocked off the 5GHz band entirely. He bought this stupid HiRO wireless card that I can't find any reviews on because he thought paying 20 bucks more for an Intel 7260 with a flat external antenna was too much. Well his old card never had problems staying connected to 5GHz but of course as usual it's my fault. Funny thing is every time he complains about the internet dropping out, I'm sitting using it to stream Netflix, browse on my phone, etc. Sometimes in the same room even. But no, it's Comcast. It's never his hardware. He's too hard headed to admit that he should have listened to me about the adapter and he's way too much of an iFan to realize that Apple has had crap Wi-Fi for years

 

I have been using the AC-66U and that baby has been working great for almost 2 years now. (Close to, i think)
Running Merlins firmware and added bigger antennas.
I just make sure i set my channels manually and QoS the **** out of Apple devices, those ****ers mess my network real good, no matter what router i use.

 

Well the process to convert it back from T-Mobile to ASUS and add Merlin is a pain in the backside but I might have to do that and then come to you for a guide on how to get QoS up and running. His Apple TV, iPhone, and iPad all have issues. It's infuriating because he blames the Comcast and wants to go back to CenturyLink which would totally buckle under the demand we put on it.

My TrendNet has a DTIM of 3 which is what I think the Apple devices don't like but the only way to change it is DD-WRT and the last time I flashed it with DD, it killed router performance across the board.

 

@Ethrem I've had connection problems due to Apple devices appearing on the network, it seemed as if they were either flooding the router or pulling all the bandwidth, and I was unable to listen to my favorite radio shows. Driven me mad! Of course, it was on cheap 802.11n router.

 

I hate Apple devices... But my roommate is the opposite. He makes up every excuse in the world. He tells me I'm closer to the router and that's why I don't have problems yet the other night when I was downstairs looking at Microcenter to get him parts for a new computer his iPad cut out and he started yelling about the internet and I was like "umm I'm using it right now with no problem"

I went through the Amazon reviews and apparently the October update fixed a lot of issues for people so I just flashed it and I've already noticed that there is a noticeable pickup in performance. I'm going to be just slightly annoyed if I bought a new router for nothing.

 

Flashing the cell spot to the retail one is relatively easy actually. Just like you would flash a normal firmware, if that does not work and the router has the latest firmware, then you can it in the recovery mode. I haven't personally done this, but my friend picked one up on eBay for 70 bucks or something and flashed it over to retail.
I had that as well when i was sharing a place, if my devices work fine the other persons i devices start throwing a fit. Easiest way was to just assign static IP's to all my devices and QoS limit the bandwidth on everything else. Never had a problem after that.

True that, the high end routers seem to handle them much better. Maybe more cache and faster processor?
But its no excuse for a certain line of devices to cripple a network just because they are bandwidth hungry.

 

Well hopefully it doesn't come to that because I have 11 devices in my room alone that would force me to set up static IPs for and I've never done anything with QoS before.

I wonder if I could just set the old router up as an AP in his room so he can run an Ethernet cable to his computer... I'm really well versed in most things when it comes to computers but not networking... I mean heck when I want to transfer over files between machines I do it with a direct connect over the Ethernet cable because it gets too fussy and isn't as fast when going through the router.

I also just realized this thing came with a 3 year warranty so it's still under warranty til May like my laptop.

 

Well you can just have him connect to the other router and hook that up with Ethernet, setup QoS to limit that access points bandwidth, that way whatever is connected to the main router is full speed. QoS setup is very easy these days. Or just use his Mac-ID's and limit their bandwidth xD

I have been very evil with my networks, since the day i was uploading some very important data to a render farm and my house mate decided to give the Wifi password to 5 of his friends who were over so that they could upload some random videos using their iPhones :\

Warranty might come into play only if the router dies, and wont even turn on. In any other scenario you can always flash over the default firmware. That one of the advantages of the ASUS routers, they are very convenient to tinker around with. Just like the old D-links/Linksys.

 

My TrendNet has support for DD-WRT as well but last I tried it, it killed performance. Which is ridiculous because their software is based on DD-WRT.

There's plenty of bandwidth to go around on a 150Mbps connection and on top of that he would notice it if I deprioritized his traffic because his file transfers would plummet in speed. If it continues to be a problem, I will just force him to use the 2.4GHz network. It's slower by about half but it doesn't drop...

 

Do these 3 still count or are they going to be updated?

 

Some probably will get updated but all 3 are still worthy of purchase. Routers do not make huge leap forwards in terms of technology so a year is not old.

 

Just got my TM-1900 (T-Mobile branded ASUS RT-AC-68U) today and this thing is ridiculous. Its got about twice the 5GHz range my TEW-812DRU had... I get a full 180Mbps all the way downstairs, same speed I get next to the thing. Simply amazing.

2.4GHz still sucks as I feared though. Guess there's way too much interference around here for me to hope for anything better.

I don't understand people saying that they had issues setting this thing up... as soon as I plugged it in, it dropped me to a walled garden and made me change the login and password (finally, a router that MAKES you do this) and had a quick run-through to set up my networks. Then I just had to add the MAC to the Comcast gateway (its set to block all traffic by default) and bam. Done.

 

One of the best routers out there. Once you Merlin's it, it performs slightly better.

 

Yeah the Broadcom in my desktop? It doesn't even have an antenna attached to the antenna port and its sitting at -54dB, its NEVER gotten that kind of signal before.

 

If you wish to extend the range further, you can get bigger antenna which supports higher power transmission, hook that up and once you have access to transmission power in Merlin's firmware ramp it up.
This might be hit or miss depending on the house.

 

Honestly I don't think it needs it... I'm going to go test my roommate's son's computer in the basement... His iPhone was showing -75dB down there and it usually gets almost no signal.

 

How long does one need to have service with T-mo to permanently keep it? Or does it have to be returned once you end service.

 

It has to be returned when you end service but I bought it outright. http://www.t-mobile.com/accessories/t-mobile-wi-fi-cellspot-router.html

100 bucks for this router is a steal.

 

So after outright purchase are you obligated to get Tmo service At all? Minimal service period after? Get service and cancel in a month?

 

Point is to use it as a stand alone router.

 

No service required.

 

Wow! then this is a deal.. I read the page again. When did this Non-Customer Mobile deal start? When do we expect it to end? Cause I am out of the US and will have to ask a friend to pull the trigger on this.

 

Thanks for this info man.. i searched a lot this month and I wasn't able to find it

I registered in these days but I follow NBR forum since years.. thx again for this piece of info

 

It's been like that for almost a year now. It was one of the uncarrier moves. Definitely a nice router I don't have any issues with it.

No problem. It's a great deal and hey, it got you to register. Welcome to NBR!