Your fully Rugged toughbooks were not complete without these accessories. Its perfect for all ocassion whether on the field, office and when travelling. It is not available on ebay specially the hinges that fit to all fully rugged toughbook. It is customized for those unit mentioned. If you need more info just contact our member( techtough) for further detail. Here below are a few pictures:
ohlip
-
thanks for the kind comments and post Teo, I should have final production on hinges done by end of March
I will have them for sale on my site www.TechTough.com and on eBay, they will retail $79 with hinges,screws and strap.
The quality of the strap is excellent. I will put up a promo for NBR forum guys once I have them in stock and contact me
for wholesale pricing for 10+ units for resellers.
Peace -
Do these use the same screws as the ones that are in the book??
-
Yes! and what I have known are the screws are included to on this package.
ohlip -
I have the screws but was brainstorming about using these points to attach a bracket to to provide a "quick disconnect" connection point for mount in my 4x4
-
I am brainstorming on a mount at the moment and was wondering if someone knows already what thread those screws are for the 4 corners? -
M3x0.5
10 characters
CAP -
I was looking at this, but it's not going to work for me any longer, I broke off the screw-head that holds my hand-strap and there seems no way to get the remaining screw out of the hole
-
ohlip -
-
toughasnails Toughbook Moderator Moderator
-
Well, the only thing I do not care much for on the Toughbook Cf18 an d19 models are these unusual black paddle-flap monitor side covers on some of them. I understand now it must have been an optional extra(?)
Im sure they tested ad nauseum their use and they must be very ergonomical and protective, but I really wish they would have built in rubber on the corners like the other models. Better yet around the entire sides like the Getac. -
CAP -
-
indeed, a 3mm screw is very hard to drill out, without touching the threads. And the screw seems to be aluminium, the housing is magnesium. To make it more difficult, you don't want to drill too far and hit a circuit board. And drilling to far will also spill magnesium/aluminium shavings into the housing AND make it no longer waterproof.
I dropped the laptop down a flight of stairs. Not a scratch anywhere, but when I picked it up on the handle, the screw head gave way. Dropped in nearly again :S -
The screw is not aluminum it's steel. You could always put the handle on the opposite side of the machine. You're only missing 1 screw out of 4.
CAP -
Don't forget the magnesium shavings can be used to start a fire.
-
Capt, I just did that! see how it works when it is attached to the side and if that works as I would like. If the screw is steel, it's going to be even harder to get it out right. I could drill it out and make an M5 out of it. But for the moment I'm trying to get used to the handle on the side. I use it really often, even if it's just for holding it by one finger when I want to carry to much.
Shawn, magnesium needs to be very fine to ignite more easily, and I drill just at very low speeds without any heat, so the risks for a fire are very small. Would be a blast, to call Panasonic and say: your laptop caught fire! -
Anyone seen mounts that connect to these 4 corner screws that would allow something like an aluminum plate to cover the rear side and have 4 "quick disconnect" type connections to the 4 corners?
-
@Alecgold
Looking into that same threaded hole on my 19 it appears to be blind and, as the Capt. said, 3mm. Feels like thread-locking compound has been used - which can seize smaller screws and make removal of their broken stubs more difficult.
Haven't checked but pretty sure Easyouts won't be available in such a small size. Would just break and make matters worse even if you can keep a 1.5mm. drill centred.
If the stub of thread isn't too deeply recessed I would use the broken end of a new hacksaw blade to carve/chisel a slot in the face of the broken stub for a (close-fitting) flat screwdriver. It takes a steady hand and patience to do it without causing cosmetic damage or personal injury (wrap the blade where you hold it). Some localised heat to weaken the thread-locking compound will be necessary immediately before using the screwdriver.
Failing that drill & tap a larger thread or drill & use a "nutsert."
To avoid breaking screws on cameras I used various techniques:
Hold a soldering iron to the screw head for a time. Works with wood & metal, careful with plastic...
Tap the screw head via a close-fitting screwdriver. A too-tight or too-loose driver can split the screw head.
Apply solvent with a tiny artist's brush, leave to soak & repeat in difficult cases.
Press down hard and steady, then a sharp but controlled few-degrees-turn to the left will often work where a steady twist would shear the screw.
Look out for left-hand threads.
Hope these help someone, they were expensive to learn -
Take it to a machine shop with a drillpress. This is no job for a dremel. Some watchsmiths can do the job.
Accessorized your Fully Rugged toughbook
Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by ohlip, Apr 17, 2013.