Adding Aftermarket Internal GPS to the CF-19

Ok! I think its time to start a new discussion for cf-19 as this unit will be affordable now than two years ago for average Joe on the forum. I've seen for a couple months that this unit drop down its price significantly specially the mk1 model.

I succesfully installed the 20 channel gps on my unit using different module this time its a holux module Sirf III also. The question now is how it perform.
Initially I used the stock antena and the results is very reliable. I quess this module perform much better than EM408 on this unit. It has also a very simple pin out compare to Em 408. It has another option depending on the serial port availabilty for secondary receiving data(Rxb) for accurate positioning.

I am still experimenting or retuning another antena to install on the side plastic covering or on the top plastic just like on cf-18 that i've worked on before. But basicaaly the easiest way is to use the stock oem antena of either cf-18 or cf-19. They are uses the same antena.

Currently I am working another kit for doobi's cf-19 unit.

Here is a photo of an interface cable that will be connected to the gps connector on Mbo. I place the module on the WWAN pcb board as I really don't need a WWAN. A wi-fi is good enough for me.

 

I've been working on this as well, and thanks to Ohlip, i'll be using a holux module instead of the original EM408. For antena placement I wanted to use the original bump out as stated by Ohlip, and have an after market antena fit in. Problem is I dont know if I can just get only the "bump out" somewhere... I've contacted hartland, but they wanted me to just send the unit in, so they can put an OEM GPS in.

 

Teo,
When you say "It has another option depending on the serial port availabilty for secondary receiving data(Rxb) for accurate positioning.", do you happen to know if the unit is capable of receiving Differential radio signals? This could be a step ahead in real world accuracy for internal GPS.
CAP

 

Ohlip,
What is the FFC you are using? Is it a 16 connection 0.5mm thickness 1 cm width?

 

Hey don't swear at him....He’s really a nice guy


Alex

 

Here are the part numbers for the stock Panny parts, these are for the CF-18, but should be the same:

Antenna cover - DFHR6231ZA-0
Waterproof sheet - DFHR3C68ZA
Gasket - DFHE0834YA
Holder - DFHM0394ZA

If you have the standard Rick/Rob screw assortment, you should have the ones you need.

 

Cap, your correct. BTW, welcome back. Hows your schooling?

Here is the reference pin out of the gps module:

GPS
Product series With HOLUX, You never lose the way!
HOLUX Technology, Inc.

1 VCC_IN
This is the main DC power supply for a +3.3 ~ 5.5 V engine board.
2 TXA
This is the main transmitting channel and is used to output navigation and
measurement data for user written software.
3 RXA
This is the main receiving channel and is used to receive software
commands to the board from user written software.
4 RXB
This is the auxiliary receiving channel and is used to input differential
corrections to the board to enable DGPS navigation.
5 GND
GND provides the ground for the board. Connect all grounds.
6 TIMEMARK (default)/ RESET (option)
This pin default is provides 1 pulse per second output from the GR-87
engine board, which is synchronized to within 1 microsecond of GPS time. The
output is a CMOS 3.0V positive level signal. Only upon a situation of tracking
or navigating will output once per second. This is not available in
Trickle-Power mode.
The secondary option function is provides an active-low reset input to the
engine board. It causes the engine board to reset and start searching for
satellites. (This second function setting need contact factory).


ohlip

 

Teo,
So far so good, now Marconi and Mnem and any other radio types need to find a way to squeeze a radio receiver into the toughbook. For the totally confused a basic primer:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_GPS
This is not the whole story, but a good start. All of my "very good" GPS units have DGPS capability. Its especially important in the US Northeast as we usually don't have a good view of the WAAS satellites up here.
CAP

 

I've found that good old gasket material works as good or better than the Panny part... I also just use thin copper for the shield/ground plane with excellent results. This is on the CF-18 and Teo's mod on the side of the CF-28.... (I tried that Teo... That was a stroke of genius by the way!)

 

Thanks to Ohlip's help I was able to get 16C 0.5mm pitch FFC to work. I just had to Cut off 4 connectors. The Holux module works perfectly, however my soldering skills are a little shoddy. The solder easily breaks off of the FFC. I'll try again tomorrow with a new FFC, and will post pics of everything.

 

Bellow is are brief instructions to how I installed an aftermarket GPS to my CF-19:

Materials:
HOLUX GR-87 GPS ENGINE
12 connector FFC
Wires (small enough to solder on to the connector)
Double sided tape
KAPTON or electrical tape

Other stuff:
Grounding kit
Electronic screwdrive set
Soldering iron with rosin core solder

• Step one: solder wires onto your 12c FFC or directly solder the Holux connector directly on to the FFC Pinouts for the conector can be found here.
• Step two: Ensure computer is not pluged in. Remove battery, hard drive, and all other removable accesories.
• Step three: Ground yourself
• Step four: Open all rubber covers and unscrew the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover. See image below for the location of all screws that need to be removed.
• 
• Step five: locate WWAN PCB remove the FFC ribbon conected to it, as well as the antenna cables conected to it. Then remove the screws identified in the picture below:
• 
  [*]Step six: lift the WWAN PCB and you will see another PCB. This is the soundcard PCB. On it is the GPS connector CN902. See picture below:
• 
• Step seven: Connect your 12c FFC, ensuring that the exposed traces are faced up. See Picture Below:
• 
• Step eight: Tape the FFC down with KAPTON or electrical tape. See Picture Below:
• 
• Step nine: Run the wires with the Holux connector at the end of it out towards the mbo, and place the WWAN PCB back in place. Then affix the GPS engine with Double sided tape onto the WWAN PCB (If you intend to use your WWAN, then you will need to find an alternate location for your GPS engine).See Picture Below:
• 
• Step ten: Connect the GPS Engine up, and attach your GPS antenna (antenna types and locations will vary). Place all covers back on, and fire up the computer and enter the BIOS. See Picture Below:
• 
• FINAL: If you rigged this up correctly you should now see GPS as an option in your BIOS.

HOPE THIS HELPS! Special thanks to Ohlip, for his assistance in this project.

 

Great post
Antenna -Where is it?


Alex

 

I used the OEM GPS Antenna from heartland. I'll try different antennas on another CF-19 after Christmas.

The only painful part of the entire thing is soldering wires to the FFC contacts (many many tries...).

 

Good post! Thanks for the pinouts. Only problem with this for me is I would lose my WWAN. I need that more than I need GPS. I am going to have to locate a different place to put the GPS module. Also with the soldering, did you use flux on the ribbon cables contacts? Flux is your friend for that...a little dab on the contacts, tin the lead, then heat the lead where the fluxed contact is...

 

There is a little bit of space under the Sound card PCB, but you will have to remove the metal casing around the GPS engine to make it fit. I'll try that after Christmas and post pics.

 

h3 -

If you trim your 12-Cond FFC to a straight ribbon instead of leaving the extra for strength there, can you double it back on itself over top of the FFC connector on the sound card PCB, and fish it out between the wider FFCs for the Sound Card PCB & WWAN PCB?

It seems to me that then you could pretty easily relocate the GPS engine pretty much anywhere there's room... I for one sure wouldn't want to give up that Mini PCI-E slot !

Good job though - excellent walk-through & pics! You might want to add the pinout for the 12-Cond FFC just to have everything that's needed in one place. I know it's posted elsewhere, but we tinkerers tend to have the attention span on a ferret on Frappucino...

mnem
Ooooooh! Blinky!!!

 

Excellent post!

Yes... Soldering wires to a ribbon cable can be trying... You need a good 10X headset, a fine-tipped soldering iron, patience and a steady hand. I find that I can separate the individual leads on the ribbon cable, strip them and then tape the ribbon cable down to the shop table so it won't move. Then I can come in closer with the needed pre-tinned wires and it's soldered in about 1 second... and more than that can lead to disaster for the cable.

 

Well I'll have a chance to try again later with an EM408, so I guess I need to go find more 12c FFC. I didn't think about seperating the leads, that would have saved so much heartache. Thank you for the advice!

 

Yes... Split them with a #11 X-Acto blade (or similar) back about 1/8" or 3-4mm... Then tape the cable down to a table and leave about 1.5 inches of the cut end sticking out so you can flex it upward... Then you can use a dental pick (gotta have every tool in the arsenal!) and move the now tabbed leads up or down as you solder. If you want to make sure they never break off... Run a VERY thin bead of hot glue over the end and/or cover the soldered area with Kapton tape. It makes for a sturdy and neat installation. I make up about 10-15 of these at a time.... So I spend only one day making up a month's worth of cables. I actually find it relaxing work believe it or not...

 

Relaxing? This is far from relaxing for me, especialy when you have a wife that thinks its funny to sneek up behind you while you are soldering just to scare you...

 

Now THAT is just plain mean! Time for payback....

I have the book "Spite, Malice & Revenge" by George Hayduke... It is VERY thick and has A LOT of useful things in it... Most is funny... But a few have paid off... If you know what I mean.

The funniest one (Not for your wife of course) is to buy a 10 Pound bag of sugar.... Use 8 pounds of it or so for your own home use. (We have a separate container.... Then sprinkle some around the ground by the "marks" car's gas tank filler cap.... Then just leave the bag there... The extra sugar will keep it from being blown away... When your "Special Friend" comes out to their car... They will think someone put sugar in their gas tank and, if they are smart, will have the car towed to a garage to have the tank removed and flushed.....

I got a million of these.

 

Good old George has several good books, all with MANY things one can do to exact "revenge" on a mark. I expecially like the one that recommends a certain chemical (which will remain nameless here) that, when added to a person's drink, results in "loud, wet, explosive farts". Oh how we can become the life of any party...or it's death.