Aftermarket GPS Instructions

Hey Rick
Do you have a way of posting a sticky at the top of this forum?
I’m reading that a few of the fellas are having a hard time trying to decipher all of our rambling about the exact way to wire the EM-408 GPS module to the RIM daughter board.
So for you guys and gals that aren’t clear this is what I know about what is currently working.

You want to buy an EM-408 GPS module and confirm you get the supplied plug short wire harness. I suggest trying here first: http://www.usglobalsat.com/p-47-em-408-sirf-iii.aspx

The Sarantel Geohelix-S Active GPS Antenna is the best antenna we have used to date and you can get them here at Jim Gray:
http://www.jdgastore.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=15

Jim Gray will also supply you with an antenna wire at an extra charge and Rick (AKA Toughbook) is using some wire and connectors he bought from mobilegpsonline.com and may be able help you out as well.

You will need to have a RIM daughter board for this modification either the original GPS board or Wireless card will do.

Wiring instructions and GPS module specs are below.
This is for the Antenna http://home.comcast.net/~Toughbookhack/geohelix-s.pdf

You have many other options but this is what we have working now and I hope this will help cleanup any confusion

Jim

 

I think I need to have a mod higher up the food chain do it. I'll check into it. I'll get around to doing a complete tutorial soon... I just haven't had time yet...


EDIT - Turns out I have the horsepower to do this... Not to be off topic but someone else PMed me about stickys... If someone thinks there should be more stickys... Please PM me... Do NOT post here.

 

Thanks Rick, feel free to delete this when you finish yours I just wanted to try to clear a few things up in the interim.
Now come on people get out and start voting this is supposed to be a poll!
How else are they going to know you what more stickys for your learning pleasure?

 

Caddy, you got a pic of the battery compartment showing the mounting method you used for the 408?
TB?

Thanks for the clarification on the pin-outs.

Whats the latest accepted method for mounting the antenna?
Still experimenting with the dremel and O-rings? Maybe a couple pics of that install would be nice too.

BTW, I've been sand-bagging for months following you guys developing this, nice to finally 'meet' you all.

My prize is a CF-28, 1Ghz, Touch, Emissive, 100 / 7200, factory GPS, 3com-combo, Atheros b/g mini, RAM on order

 

I much prefer the more professional little grin ':')' or ':'Þ~~~'

 

I used double sided tape (slightly foamy kind), but that's just me.

Some smarter people may have done something nicer.

 

Thanks

Glen

 

How'd you do the antenna? Or is that a project in-work?

 

I did it poorly. I haven't finalised how I'll do it, but for now it's kinda taped in with my "parts case" until I figure out how I wanna do it a good way. It's been on the back burner for a couple of weeks in my mind though, but I really do need to get on that soon. I need it operational by the 30th this month (taking the laptop with me out to California to visit my brother).

I wanna make sure that I have a way to take a snapshot of me doing 600+ MPH at 30,000ft. It'll prove useful later

 

Glen,

Modly is correct.... You mount the GPS with double stick tape per the directions that come with it. Then the daughterboard mounts to the standouts where it was originally mounted. It's a perfect fit.

The antenna is easily mounted in the RIM antenna location. (At least that's where I find it easiest to mount.) You elongate the slot where the RIM slides down into. Trial fit the GPS antenna. You want it large enough so that it has a little movement on all sides. If you look in the other stickied thread about GPS... You will see how I mounted it. I score the back (Silver shiny side) of the GPS antenna with the back of an exacto knife. Don't press too hard. Then, while Dremeling I make some scores in the magnesium underneath where the GPS antenna will slide into. I mix up some JB Weld... Just a little more than the size of a pencil eraser. Dab that onto the magnesium and then slide the antenna in and press it into the epoxy. Make SURE that no epoxy oozes out to touch the center conductor of the circuit board on the back of the antenna. You don't want to ground that! Then it's just a matter of running the cable. Make sure you insulate the back of the PC board on the antenna after you solder the cable to it. You don't want it to short out when you screw the cover down.

This picture shows the antenna mounted on the opposite side... but you get the idea.

 

I just mounted the em 408 by puttingthin layer of non conductive material beneath and then spot soldered from the ground plane of em 408 to ground plane of the daughter board(make sure it is a ground plane, Ok!) to make it stable enough from vibration or sudden impact. I'm gonna attach photo of my installation later

 

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I wondered about attaching/securing things as well. I have alot of options tool wise, & so tend to over engineer. As I was conjuring up all sorts of scenarios, I noticed the hot glue gun sitting on a bench. Well, you can take it from there.

 

Hi i don't have a daughter board what can i use and how much for the Geohelix-S Active GPS Antenna
thank you

 

Thanks guys

Glen

 

I'm not sure I would hot glue the GPS down... But then again I guess that doesn't mean that it is permanent. One thing I did use hot glue for...

One of my recent GPS problems had to do with putting in and taking out a GPS engine. In taking it out and reinstalling it several times I apparently bent a few of the wires that were soldered to the board. They looked connected but actually weren't. (Or maybe they were hanging on by just 1 wire) Anyway, I resoldered all the wires and it worked like a charm. Then I used hot glue to reinforce the area where the wires are soldered to the board. Since hot glue is non-conductive... I just shot a small bead over the wires and board... Locking down the wires against the board. This way... When/if the wires bend, they won't do it at the solder joint!

 

We are very slowly working on a solution if you don't have a board... But I do mean slowly.

You can get the antennas from Jim D Gray.

 

Does anyone here know anything about "Heartlands"?
I've seen some references to it for hard to get parts...
I'm getting no google hits by that name.

 

http://www.heartlandsi.com/

 

Thanks Modly...i missed the i hehe

 

"Our store will be opening soon" ?

Does this place really exist?

 

You have to call them to order but make sure you have your part numbers.

 

You can get the antenna at:

http://www.rcatsystems.com/cube/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=17

It is the ****! Get it in 30” length. They are very quick to get it out. I have modified the RIM antenna mount and it works great.



You can see Toughbook’s cut out. When using your drimmel remember that Magnesium is flammable.

But you are a Jarhead so you probably already know that.

Simper Fi brother,

Recon

 

Thanks Marine, I think I'll go with your source since the other couple sources I looked at dont come with the lead attached...kill 2 birds with 1 JHP

SSGT > 10 yrs (Point of no return)...got out in '88
Semper Fi

 

I did 17 years with the Gulf War, Somalia (twice), and Iraq and got out as a WO. I am long done now.

Recon

 

Has anyone tried the new GPS engine with the existing factory antenna? If not, I'm going to when I get the new engine.

That factory antenna is like the book itself, tough. I sure would like to keep that thing.

 

Depending on what module you get it may not plug in.
It will not plug in the EM-408.
Although it would be possible to embed a Sarantel Geohelix-S Active GPS Antenna in the hump and I think it should work just fine down there based on Rick’s report of getting good reception in his basement I can’t see moving the antenna to this location causing any ill effects. Remember if you do try this you need to use the white cap designed for embedment.


Good luck and let us know.
Jim

 

The Sarantel antenna gets 180 reception so by mounting it on its side you would certainly pick up some satellites but not as many as if you were to mount it straight up.

 

I noticed the EM-408 has a built in LNA so I wonder why you guys are using an active antenna it seems you should be able to use the cheaper passive antenna or is the LNA only attached to the onboard patch antenna?

 

Caddy, there is a small difference of pin numbering directions between those graphics. In the photograph of the 408 wired to the daughterboard (DB), pin 1 of the 408 is clearly going to pin 7 of the DB.

After practically destoying the DB getting the old engine off, I got the new one on.

I removed the old antenna out of the hump, and spliced a length of the old RIM cable so it would attach to the 408.

I've damaged to the point of inoperability either the DB or the old antenna, because I get streaming data, but no locks whatsoever.

I'm going to transplant the 408 to another DB I have (RIM version) tomorrow, and eliminate the DB as the cause. (I have no other antenna as of yet)

 

I can't find a source for a replacement for the hump antenna...it looks like:
http://www.braemacca.com/products/WiSys+Antennas_13mm+embedded+gps.php

But, as you know, needs an MMCX connector to mate with the 408.

The stock antenna is about .9 X .7 inches, so I think an 18mm square would fit, but I'm positive a 13mm square would fit.

If I could just find a place to buy one...

 

GlenB Keen eyes.
That picture was taken when I first wired the module to the daughter board and if you read through the original post it took me a day to discover that I need to switch pin 5 and 7 both have 3.3 volts but 5 has no amps. (Use the wiring diagram not the photo) that photo was just to show that I left a length of wire between the board and the module.

Now let’s talk about removing the original GPS module.
First I used a rework soldering station that uses hot air to melt the solder (no contact with the hot tip) and a solder sucker (a little device with a spring loaded plunger that when pressed pulls a little suction and removes the hot solder) then after I have removed all the solder from all contact points I gently pry the module with a nylon pry bar (fancy plastic screw driver).

Now I don’t think you need a rework station and a soldering station will work just fine for this but you will need a solder sucker (this is the one I use http://tmt.stores.yahoo.net/despumpa1.html ) and some sort of flat plastic thing to pry with like a plastic knife and you will do minimal damage to both your daughter board and your module.

Hope this helps you and if you need more info PM me
Jim

 

I had a solder sucker on hand, but used a roll of wick for most of the job. The problem seemed to be the solder points for the case was a different alloy solder, so it proved formitable.

Due to the destruct-O job I did on it, I damaged one of the pin points on the PCB (5) so I ended up putting both 408's pin 1 and 5 to the DB pin 7 (VDC)

 

How did you damaged the pin point, can you describe it maybe i can help you repair it.

 

Heat warpped the PCB and the copper foil seperated from the board (pin 5). But I moved that wire. I moved both the VCC(5) and Enable/Disable(1) to pin 7 (3VDC) of the GPS board.

Currently, I get data streaming (as viewed in GPSviewer) but it appears to never lock on any satellites. Very strange.

I may have damaged the factory antenna when I spliced in the MMCX lead.

I dident know it was a shielded cable all the way into the antenna, so tried to desolder the original lead.

I'm going to run some more tests today. If I get nowhere with it, I'll move it to a fresh RIM board I've aquired.

 

Glen
Are you using a remote antenna? The ceramic antenna on the module will need a clear view of the sky.(Remove battery and turn laptop upside down)

Jim

 

Jim is right... That is the way to test the GPS itself. Make sure your external antenna is disconnected before you try though.

Did you solder your own MMCX connection? I've gotten pretty good doing it. I also just bought 50 MMCX connectors and 100' of RG-174... I'm just waiting for it all to get here. I ran out of the stuff from GPS Online. It is very easy to screw up the MMCX connector. You can check the leads for continuity... there should be ZERO continuity from the center lead to ground. Also... Make sure that the leads from the GPS to the DB are soldered well. Before I started hotgluing mine in place... They would wiggle about as I tested the GPS and every now and then one would come loose but still look like it was connected. Now, as soon as I solder... I run a bead of hot glue across the wires and my solder joints to insure they won't come loose for ANY reason!

 

I cut a RIM lead to get the MMCX end...then I cut the factory GPS antenna lead off, I spliced the RIM lead onto the factory anenna (which is where I may have burned something up)

I had stuff to do at work today, plus a couple of 1ghz 28's I was trying to work at the same time...I dident get to the GPS project today.

You should have seen how someone put the hard drive assembly together (I took pic's I'll post later) in 1 of the 28's I'm working on.

EDIT: And its snowing in Atlanta....practically a blizard...I wanted to get home before the smash and crash starts...hehe

 

I know what you mean... I bought a 1Ghz for a customer order from BigDaddy or something like that on ebay... When I swapped the hard drive for a new one I couldn't believe that someone could screw up the reassembly as bad as it was. I don't know if he was the one who assembled it but I couldn't imagine selling one without taking it apart to make sure everything was Jake. (OK) The top padded copper foil was all folded around the entire drive. The white gel wrap was all askew and sticking out from the pull tab... It was a wreck. But is was fixable so I just had a good chuckle and moved on.

I just got my first laptop from Nevada... Overall it's in good condition but just dirty. It looks to be a former Policia model. You can tell it is worn where it was clamped in the Kodiak and donut crumbs were evident. The screen is not scratched but the anti reflective coating is coming off at the bottom... Which means it all must come off. I've been using alcohol and elbow grease to take it off... Does anyone have a better way?

Sorry to be OT... perhaps we should start a Reconditioning Thread?

 

I agree. We should have a thread dedicated to restoring these things to a good useable condition.

I've gotta figure out why my new one I'm working on has so much of a gap between the LCD and the touch panel.

 

It sounds like someone swapped in a LCD that wasn't made for it. Are the colors true?

I'll start a new Reconditioning thread and sticky it...

 

I agree an upgrade thread or sticky would be great.

 

I just did one for the hard drive assembly (instructo-Thread)

 

Thanks Caddilac for taking the time to post the wiring info...great job.
It took many reads as I got confused with pins 1 and 5 but you've made it clear for me. The first picture with the wiring diagram is the correct way to do it... just to make that clear for others.

I have been following this thread and the other ones for the GPS hack since August of last year and you guys have done a great job. You guys ROCK.

During my read I have gotten a bit confused about the port issue.
This may help others in wanting to know what to do should they get the same results as I did.
Anyway..
In my CF-28 after removing the RIM transceiver and adding the EMP-408
and setting the DIP switch to 4 for GPS enable I now show two com2 ports in my computer. no com 4.
altho my system works ok.. I am wondering should I uninstall the ports and have windows reinstall for me? (rescan?) .would this make that second com2 the Com4 everyone is using for GPS?

Edit: I just renamed the second Com2 (IRQ11 03E8) as Com7 in the Device Manager. all seems ok for now.
I now have the following coms
Com1 IRQ4 03F8
Com2 IRQ3 02F8
Com3 IRQ10 02E8
Com7 IRQ11 03E8

I have no touchscreen and mouse issues, they work fine.
I didnt have any conflicts but thought this might work for the confused.
Chuck

 

The link to the wiring for the antenna seems to be broken now....anyone have that .pdf ??

 

Its been bad for me for a few months now..
But I can tell you the first pix in the set of three is really all you need.
Have fun with your installation.


Chuck

 

How long antenna wire did you need?

 

I started out with a very long rg-174 cable..
I bought a cheap wifi antenna for the cable so I wouldnt have to install the connector onto the end.
And trimmed it to length after I installed the Geohelix antenna into the lid.
I'd guess it may be 20" long.

 

You will need at least 28"-29" for the MMCX lead to go from the EM-408 to the top of the LCD. It ould be better if you had 30". That gives you enough room to play around with the routing of the lead and gives enough "flex" at the hinge area.

 

Ok because I email jim gray and asked for the price on antenna and a wire...told him to see this thread for what Kind of wire I need and he replied with "Looks like you will need a 24" RG 178 cable with a Right Angle MMCX assuming
you are using EM408 module"...

So I guess I should tell him to make it 30 inches...but the connections are still good correct?

 

Yes, Thats sounds about right... RG 174 with the MMCX connector

Jim's a good guy, I had a good long converstion over the phone..very knowlegable guy. Knows RF well.

If you do order the wire with antenna, Rick is right, you should probably go ahead and get 30" of RG 174 with it to be safe.
You can always coil-up the excess if any.

Have fun!!!