CF-19's with a stupid STOP THEFT sticker...

I just bought 10 of these CF-19's... as you all know... Any idea how to get rid of the "stolen property" etching? Obviously these are NOT stolen as I paid for them for resale...

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

Are they stickers?

EDIT.... If it is an etching on the magnesium I have found that PC Board Etching fluid etches just about everything. You could tape it off... Swab it with a brush back and forth until it dissolves then wash it or sponge it off. Just be careful as the PCB etching fluid is VERY corrosive!

So... Uh... Where'd you steal them from?

 

Rick, please provide a link to this magical fluid... I will purchase some...

Yes, it is a thick metal sticker that etches a tatoo on the unit when removed.

Thanks man!

Would I be using Ferric Chloride??? Is that what etching fluid is? That's what I found in my research.....

 

Do not remove the pllates or the 19's will be worthless for resale, underneath the plate is a molecular etched tattoo that cannot be removed. Instead contact stoptheft and have them transfer the plate id's to you or your buyers. If you already removed them you may be able to get new plates but that will cost you money and there will be a lot more redtape to go through.

 

e-mail: [email protected]
phone: 1-203-945-2020

http://www.stoptheft.com/site/support.php

 

Another idea. Is the sticker on the lid? I spent less than $10.00 on Ebay and got a very nice quality sticker made from one of my own photographs. It looks really good on the lid of my CF 50. The sticker is large enough to cover the entire lid. Plus I show off my favorite photo.
If the CF19 lid isn't flat like the CF50 then my idea probably won't work.
It's like my theory on home remodeling "Wide trim hides a multitude of sins".
Or my auto body theory "Creative striping covers lots of oops"


Your mileage may vary
Shawn

 

Rob... Ferric is right... Can we see a picture? What an innane way to sell a service.....

"And when you sell them when finished they will all look like they are stolen!"

Reminds me of the old Gary Larson cartoon... "Double your I.Q. or no money back!"

 

Yes! please show us a picture of them. Where are they located? Top, Bottom?

I have been missing some cf-19 for a week or so A picture would help me identify them

Rob it would help us in masking your problem.

TB2010

 

I just took a look at the stickers from the sight posted. Looks to me there just using a fast cure gel glue to bond. Maybe super glue? Try super glue remover if thats the case. It says etching so unless the glue melts the id into the laptop? Let us know more

 

Here are pics... You can kinda see the red in the midst of the one. Then I ripped it off and it doesn't appear to hard to get rid of with a REALLY sharp razor blade.

Attached are pics

 

I think I'm right it's just glue. The razor might be the best. Acetone or other strong cleaner might take the baked on paint off. You know what Try oven cleaner. Easy_off or super glue remover.

 

Use Goo Gone... It has NEVER failed me... Then clean the oily residue that is left over with 91% Isopropyl alcohol...



Use THIS stuff... Not Goo-Be-Gone or any other "goo" crap.... THIS SPECIFICALLY is the real deal... The best stuff... The top of the heap... The bees knees.... The... you get my drift.... The stuff works!


I've tried them all and THIS it what you want... Trust me. You may need to work at it. I would not use a razor blade... But the side of a credit card or Zytel knife works GREAT!
Available at a Home Depot near you!

 

The Toughbook cases are pretty inert. I find it hard to believe that the sticker isn't removable.

We use a dremel with a fine tip to engrave indelible property tags onto our Toughbooks.

 

I have come across just about every type of sticker EXCEPT that one... But it looks like the same type I had on a recent batch.... It took the edge of a razor blade to get it started and a heat gun to loosen up the glue enough o peel it off. Still... Most stayed on the Toughbook. It was an ID Asset tag sticker from a governmental agency and they don't mean for it to ever come off!

Use the Goo Gone... That and the reinforced Scott Towels at home depot make a great start to a cleaning system.

 

I like Goo Gone! I like to use it with the Scotch-Brite pads to get off tough residue!

 

http://www.stoptheft.com/site/faq.php#buy_sell : ....NO! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE STOP PLATE! .....

 

Do not cut the tag off the mattress.

 

Hmmmm.... Maybe you can turn it into a selling feature..... Reregistration is free...

 

I would pay to not have that ugly sticker on one of my toughbooks. Damn thing looks so tacky. obviously from the pictures their "permanent etching" is another sticker. How do they help in the recovery of your stolen laptop. Oh wait they don't. they just prevent sale. So if I stole one (or 19 like JB. just kidding,lol) of these marked ones I could use it for myself just don't sell it. or take the sticker off.
Basically no gain and makes my laptop look ugly. just my 2 cents.

 

If it can be adhered on, then it can be un-adhered off...

And I agree with toughbook... "Comes with lifetime anti-theft verification system"....

That "tattoo" looks like a glorified sticker, you may want to try acetone or methyl ethyl keytone (yes Toughbook, I know this isn't farm equipment, this time my idea applies). But you will need to be careful, as those chemicals can (and will) fog plastic (like lcd's), the vapors can remove tape (like kapton tape inside the unit), and or melt plastic trim pieces, among other nasty things. I'm a contractor, and those two chemicals are indispensable.

Another, way less caustic, solution is called "PB Blaster" (aerosol like wd40)(wd40 sucks for this). It's great for removing adhesive residue (among other nasty substances) from various surfaces. Although, it still has the potential to do damage in ways you might not immediately identify.

Goof Off, Goo Gone, etc are usually pretty good, but don't work for some of the things I need (which is why I buy a gallon of Acetone or MEK at 1 time).

!!!USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
!!!DO NOT USE ANY OF THOSE CHEMICALS ON PLASTICS!!!
Without testing them first​

All of those are available at Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc... (paint supply store might be the cheapest by volume, Ace will have the smallest container, ergo, the cheapest as in the most least expensive)

Use a good clean lint free RAG (not paper towels or TP) fold it up nice and neat (manageable square) and go ahead and douse the corner with a good amount of your choice of carcinogous cleaner. Not so much that the rag will drip or bleed onto your Mg lid. Then, press the corner onto the sticker for a minute, and work it off with the edge of an old credit card (or used gift card, etc). If you used PB, you'll need to clean the lid off again (it is oil). Some not nastey houshold surface cleaner will do the trick (don't spray the lid, spray a clean rag or paper towel).

Viola - nice, neat, and clean sticker removal. This also works for most other annoying stickers (COA, Intel Inside, and other anoying stickers some dumb basses leave on theier laptops for years after it's been out of the box).

 

Rick, Goo Gone does NOT work worth BEANS! I have buckets of the REAL DEAL goo gone here at work and use it EVERY DAY! Doesn't work.

I'm just gonna use a razor blade.

Thanks

 

Rob, gasoline?

 

METHEYL ETHYL KEYTONE
MEK for short

Using a mild heat source (even just direct sunlight) will help. Careful, MEK is flamable as heck. I know what I'm talking about. The only other nastier thing than MEK is airline stripper and you need to be careful, cuase that shizzle will eat metal too (if you leave it sitting long enough).
The next nastiest thing is "metal prep" (used in auto body to eat rust right off)(that will eat magnesium (the lid))...

Just use some sunlight and some
MEK​

And, I'm not responsable for your actions, use at your own risk, wear safety googles, hasmat suit, resperator, appron, face shield, welding jacket, steel toed boots, and only use it in a sealed CDC Level 5 containment chamber.

 

Rob by the time you get to the 10th laptop, you will have it down how to remove the dam thing.

I still think you need to get super glue remover. It's going to take somthing that will eat that glue.

Removing Super Glue
Super Glue is renowned the world over for the strength of its bonds, its versatility of use, and easy application. Whether a hole needs a seal or a crack needs repairing, Super Glue is the first thing that craftspersons, hobbyists, and contractors use for all their construction or repair needs.

Because Super Glue is so strong and bonds so fast, some people may find that they have accidentally glued two fingers together, or found that that small piece of balsa wood or plastic from a model they were building has completely bonded to their skin! Not to worry, for even though Super Glue is incredibly strong, it has one weakness: acetone.

Acetone is often found in household nail polish remover, and a small amount on the end of a Q-tip or cotton swab applied directly to the glue should dissolve the bond without damaging the skin. Be very cautious in gently peeling the skin apart as in removing a bandage from the skin; pulling the skin apart may rip the skin! Read the label to make sure that the remover actually contains acetone, as more and more manufacturers are turning away from the chemical because of the growing popularity of acrylic nails (which are loosened by acetone).

Be careful - straight acetone will discolor a number of fabrics and can mar the finish of laminated counter tops (mainly the darker colored ones). Straight Acetone defats the skin; wash with soap and water after use and apply hand lotion to replenish the skin and remove any dryness effects. Use acetone sparingly and cautiously with these tips in the following situations:

•Clothing/Fabrics
Use acetone and an old toothbrush, reapplying the acetone a number of times and brushing to remove it layer-by-layer. Work on outside and then on inside. May not come off entirely.
•Counters, tables, floors, etc.
Use acetone to soften glue and then start working at the glue. Brush, scrape, shave, peel, sand or whatever mechanical means is available to work the glue off. Reapply acetone and continue to work at the glue.
•Glass
Standard Super Glue is not recommended to be used for glass bonding applications. If bonded, soak in water until parts come apart.
The best suggestion is to properly cover your work area with metal foil before use - and always work with Super Glue and other adhesives in a well-ventilated area!

Should Super Glue bond to any body part where acetone should not be applied, such as the lips or eyes, the following steps will help you get out of any sticky situation!

•Skin
Immerse bonded areas in warm, soapy water. Peel or roll skin apart; a spatula or teaspoon handle or even a pencil will help. Remove cured adhesive with warm, soapy water (may take several applications). Fingernail polish remover with an acetone base has also been successful for removal of cured adhesive from skin.
•Lips
If lips are accidentally stuck together, apply a generous amount of warm water and encourage maximum wetting and pressure from saliva from inside the mouth. Peel or roll (do not pull) lips apart. It is almost impossible to swallow the adhesive as a liquid. The adhesive solidifies upon contact with saliva (moisture) and could adhere to the inside of the mouth. Saliva will lift the adhesive in 1-2 days, avoid swallowing the adhesive after detachment.
•Eyelid
In the event that eyelids are stuck together or bonded to the eyeball, wash thoroughly with warm water and apply a gauze patch. The eye will open without further action within 1-4 days. To our knowledge there has never been a documented case of adhesive in the eye causing permanent damage. Do not try to force eyes open.
•Eyeball
The adhesive will attach itself to the eye protein and will disassociate from it over time, usually within several hours. Periods of weeping and double vision may be experienced until clearance is achieved. Use of a warmed 3% sodium bicarbonate solution to wash eyes repeatedly may assist in aiding more rapid removal of the adhesive.
WE SUGGEST THAT ALL INCIDENTS OF EYE EXPOSURE TO CYANOACRYLATE ADHESIVE (SUPER GLUE) BE DISCUSSED WITH A PHYSICIAN

 

http://www.supergluecorp.com/bondini/bondini-brush-remover-gel

 

Update. I've used acetone and it did ALMOST NOTHING I let it sit on there and soak in for 5 minutes too (before it all evaporated) and it took a VERY VERY MINUTE, LITTLE bit off...

I'm sure if you used half a bottle of acetone and worked it for 20 minutes than it would work but that's a lot of damn work when you have 20 of these things lol...

 

MEK

Acetone is common in nailpolish remover; I'm sure they thought of this when they were deciding which type of adhesive to use to make it difficult to remove.....

 

Hrmmm... I don't have a hasmat suit... I think I'll just stick to razor blades... I wikipedia'ed that stuff and it redirected to "Butanone"...

After reading the article on Butanone I know understand why you can use a dry erase marker to remove permanent marker from macbooks! w00t!

 

I gonna run over to ACE in a little bit to visit my brother to get some of this stuff.

Thanks

 

I've use MEK in the past to take paint off items, just dropped em in a jar with MEK and the paint just fell off.. Nasty ..
Use gloves and in a well ventilated area!
It has a cooling feeling on bare skin that, if memory serves me, turns to a burning feeling.

Or you could send me all 20 and I'll get them off and send you back 19

 

Okay so this MEK stuff combined with direct sunlight works a TINY BIT better than the acetone did but not enough to make it worth my time to take all of these damn things off... Still more efficient to just use a razor blade...

~Rob - Back to the drawing board with the harsh chemicals~

 

Rob.... Goo Gone dood... And the edge of a credit card. Work that thang! The adhesive that is used here is like industrial waste... There is no EASY way to get it off/get rid of it! Goo Gone and the edge of an old credit card and there won't be a mark on it when you are finished.

 

To take it one step further, this stuff doesn't even get the glue off from these stickers...

 

Rick, I've tried Goo Gone... it doesn't work man! I know that goo Gone normally dissolves this stuff but it does NOT work here... the MEK works better than the Goo Gone does, and it doesn't even work well.

I got it though... can barely tell that it is there.

 

The last option I would try would be airline stripper. I used this stuff on the roof of my van, and it took off just about all the paint's and what not, except the rust.

It's really a combination of all the nastiest solvents you can find (incl. acetone and mek). Ace hardware.

carefull, it's nasty stuff. And it will eat the metal if you leave it on too long (hours)(I'd go for bout 5-10 min per shot). Just goop it on, let it sit, and scrape with a credit card. Use it sparingly (only enough to engulf the sticker/adhesive) and then scrape/peel.

Let usa know...

 

Take some wet/dry sand paper, use a fine grit and lightly sand with either rubbing alcohol or acetone/nail polish remover... And worst case with this, you end up painting the cases lol

Danny

 

Heck..... It's water resistant... Have you tried powerwashing it off?

<Water... The UNIVERSAL solvent... With enough pressure!>

 

Everyone keeps pushing Acetone, MEK and other ketones. How about going with the magic ring - Benzene, Naphtha, etc. Use a "cotton cosmetic round" from the drug store. Saturated, and let it sit on there a while. Sharpen the edge of an old credit card or use a sharp wood chisel to get underneath the sticker. Clean the residue off with some fresh Naphtha, then get the residue off with a 50/50 mix of acetone and 91% isopropyl alcohol.

 

I tried Xylene at ACE and that didn't work... ACE doesn't have Naptha...

 

Rob your not going to find something to just wipe it off. If you have found something to cut away at it just a little then you need to just keep after it.

Glue is hard and your only getting the outside of it. That's why i posted the link for the super glue remover. It's a gel so you can put it on and it won't just evaporate away. Straight acetone is gone before you can count to 10.
Put it on a rag and let it soak.

Use your razor to cut line in it first.

I'm sure they make something to remove it with. As they say it's etching the laptop and we already can see it's just glued on.




Good luck.

 

airline stripper

 

Lighter Fluid.... Available at any store near you!

 

your gonna need a 9 iron, ice cube tray, hot chick, and some mcguiverness...

 

That's McGyverness....

Hmmmm... 9 Iron, huh.... The ice I can see... And a hot chick ALWAYS makes things come off quicker....

<Did he REALLY just say that?>

 

There's also the water buffalo, but that's optional.

 

Are you thinking what I'm thinking, Pinky?

I think so Brain... but where are we going to find rubber pants and a monkey at this hour?

mnem
oscillating.

 

like a stewardess?

 

I bought one of those units with that security label in the past, tried GooGone and others. Will not work.

1) peeled off security label by first carefully using a chisel to get in between and give me some leverage, go slowly so as not to scratch case, once you get a decent edge exposed you can pull it off by hand.

Now that label is removed, you will have excess dried glue and more security warnings on the lid

2) used chisel again to remove excess super alien glue (probably developed in Area 54) sanded the area, the then repainted it. The only problem is the cover has a textured surface so the area you sand down will be smooth. Start with a heavy grit then finish with a fine grit sandpaper. Be warned, you will see a contrast in texture of sanded and untouched area if you do this. But sure looks better than that bloody eyesore of a label. If I were to do it again I would probably sand the whole lid to have a more consistent uniform look.

Hockey Playoff time baby !

Good luck

 

Um... I think that is Area 51... (No Comment) Or are you thinking about STUDIO 54? There were probably chemicals floating around there too that would take off the residue!

*************************************​

Eno... I have pics of an airline stripper.... Great stuff.... Lemme know if you want a forward.... Heh, heh, heh....

 

From what I've seen, the STOP labels will etch plastic.

Fortunately they don't etch metal.