CF-28 model model number missing

Hey guys

I just aquired a CF-28, the 9 digit model number has been removed, but the serial number is still there, is there any other way to determine what CF-28 model that I have?

Thanks
Keven

 

Well, the first clue is in the case. If it has a keyslot in the power button, it's a Mk1 (600mhz). If it doesn't, it's a Mk2(800mhz) or Mk3(1000mhz); they share the same case castings, unlike the Mk1.

If it will boot to BIOS, you should be able to find the model and serial # on the main information page. If not, then you'll either need to get it running or disassemble it and inspect the processor to determine for sure.

mnem
Oooooh! CASTINGS!!!

 

Thanks for the info, no key hole, appearantly the screen is not working so I will have to hook it to an external monitor to see the bios. Then I will see if I can figure out what is wrong with the LCD. What have I gotten myself into???

 

On the CF-28 the first digit of the serial number corresponds to the MK version. 1=600mhz 2=800mhz 3=1000mhz.

 

t2g -

I had forgotten that little bit of Toughbook lore; I know the first letter after the series in the model # denotes the Mk; ie CF28M is Mk1, CF28P is Mk2, CF28S is Mk3. But now that you mention it, I remember hearing that bit about the ser# before on the forum.

Thanks!

EDIT: Of course, you still can't be SURE until you boot it and see... As ToughBook reminded us in another post, if it's been hacked, that Model#/Ser# on the bottom could be irrelevant.

mnem
Of course, you COULD just ask t2g...:tongue:

 

Looks like the previous owner worked on the key board, the alt key is glued on wih gorilla glue ugg. The screws are also buggered up so i fear the keyboard (emmisive chicklett) is not connected to the mother board.

 

I was finally able to get into the bios after hooking up an external monitor and keyboard. The keyboard is not orgional and it looks like the little plastic widget that holds the largest of the three ribbon cables to the mother board is gone and someone tried to hold it down with some foam tape. My question is this. Will a non-functioning keyboard cause problems with the video or do I have two different problems????

 

Methinks I smell a "FrankenClunker" - a laptop put together out of all the dead parts taken off of laptops that were repaired by kit-bashing parts from a bunch of partially-functional units...

So - what IS your model #? (For the MB, at least?)

mnem
Like Frank Perdue says of Hot Dogs ~ Parts is parts...

 

You may be right the Model Number is CF-28PTJP8QM. The Toughbook configuator advises that it came with a wireless lan antenna along with a cisco 802-11b wireless card (It does have a retractable antenna in the top of the monitor). I was able to boot a ZenWalk linux live cd and it showed that I was putting out a wifi signal was active (Belkin 54G) but I did not have time to investigate further. My harddrive caddy arrived today and I will try to do more with tomorrow.

 

Mmmhmmm...

Of course the Belkin WiFi is NOT OEM... although, your LiveCD may be misidentifying it. You know then that you have a Mk2 800mhz model w/256MB base RAM soldered to the MB; you can up that to 768MB total with the 512 Kingston RAM mentioned in the CF-28 FAQ.

However, I have to admit I'm curious about the WiFi antenna - I've never actually SEEN one that came from the factory with that; most that I've come across with an antenna were originally configured with RIM Wireless broadband (now defunct) and I had to mod that antenna for WiFi use. I would REALLY like to see an antenna measurement and high resolution close-up(macro if possible) pics of that antenna and associated cabling, particularly the area at the base under the black rubber cover where there is an orange ribbon cable assembly. What I'm interested in there is how they have the matching coils & resistors arranged for WiFi; see my posts here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=215522&page=2

to see what I'm looking for.

I see it was originally configured for XP/2K dual-boot; did you actually get the COA with that?

It appears they didn't include a 56K MODEM; I wonder if they did that so they could use a mini-pci WiFi card, or maybe it was that 3P Adapter... (Guys, WHAT THE FRAKK IS A 3P ADAPTOR?!?) they usually use the hidden PCMCIA for that Cisco Aeronet card.

Welp, if you can fix the KB & LCD, it looks like you've got a decent laptop with a lot of room for modding; hopefully you didn't spend so much on it that you can't afford to fix it up. I love my CF-28 Mk3 outfitted similarly; I use it onsite for a test rig almost every day.

mnem
Toughbooks don't like pizza. They don't DISLIKE it either... they just... try to ignore it.

 

There is a sticker on the back that states that it was refurbished, dosen't say by who, the win-xp and win-2000 COA's have been replaced with a XP-Pro COA. The antenna appears stock and extends 6.5 inches above the antenna base. I got it really cheap, now I know why, but with the forums help I am confident I can get it fixed. I am working on the keyboard issue right now, but as soon as I can I will get photos of the antenna installation up so you can see them.

 

Here are some tidbits regarding your unit:

1. 3P ADAP refers to the AC adapter being a 3 prong adapter.

2. The absence of a modem is because this model uses a second WIFI antenna that is built into the right side plastic hoiusing and with this antenna you can have either a modem jack or an ethernet jack but not both.

3. The dual COA is really one COA sticker that has both XP and 2K on the same sticker. Look closely at it and you should see both product id's.

 

t2g -

THANK YOU!!!

That 3P Adap char string was just bugging the CR@P outta me; since I saw it in his build I researched and found it ALL OVER the web in product listings, and not ONCE could I find out WHAT IT REFERRED TO.

My Mk1 came with the CF-AA1639 ungrounded adapter; I know it's not as safe when connected to the network, but overall I still prefer it since the power cord side is not nearly as bulky as the w/ground type.

The original WiFi on this one was the Cisco Aeronet Card in the hidden PCMCIA slot, right?

Klon - yeah, sorry about not accurately describing the Dual COA - I've gotten caught on that one a few times myself. Look closely - the PID AND PRODUCT KEY are usually pretty tiny print on the dual COAs.

As for the KB - if you don't NEED a rubberized KB, the regular chiclet type KB is not fearfully expensive from FleaBay... tho shipping from the States would prolly be painful.

Be VERY careful removing the keyboard, particularly at the connectors on the MB. The little flap/clip that retains the ribbon cable on the beige MB connector flips up to release the cable; it is VERY FRAGILE and if it breaks, it's usually the end of the motherboard.

Good luck,

mnem
Oooh...Pizza GOLF!!!

 

Tough-2-Go is right it does have a dual COA for XP and 2000. Using previous posts on keyboard problems I was able to a thin piece of my expired NRA id card to make a widget widge to fit under the ribbon cable, the only difference was that I made it in a t-shape to make it easier to insert using a very long needle nose pliers. It worked and was able to use the keyboard, however the space key does not work, so I will be looking for a replacement keyboard.

Thanks for all your help and advice, now to figure out why the screen is not working.

Keven

 

Your F4 was blown up. I just purchased a replacement mbo. from one of the seller on ebay(next..2) recently that he said its working but when I received it and installed I've got no video test the f4, blown. Jumpering a thin wire and it works perfectly.


ohlip

 

Thanks, it was your keyboard ribbon cable trick that got my keyboard to work. Is the "F4" you are refering to a fuse on the motherboard?

Keven

 

Yup! but you need to open up the buttom part of the unit to access on that fuse. It is near the internal mic. connector and cmos connector with a size of a rice grain(smaller i think) but of course in a rectangular shape with a distinctive color white.



ohlip

 

Hey Keven! Are you located in Alabama? If so, I am in Panama City and I have a CF-28 parts unit (600Mhz) that is fairly bare, but it is a touch unit and it has a good keyboard. PM me if you are interested.

 

Prattville, Alabama, I will PM you.

 

The fuse is an easy replacement if needed and is also very easy to check with a DVM...

The pull-up antenna makes a great wifi antenna with a little work. Mnem did a thread a while back about how to do it. I've used his hack several times with fantastic results.

I find the CF-28 the easiest of all the Fully Rugged lines to work on. They are fairly easy to fix, parts are cheap and there is plenty of room for modifications and hacks. Too bad they are fairly slow... depending on what you use them for. They make great Internet surfing platforms, MS office works well and they kick butt as a diagnostic platform for all sorts of equipment.

 

Thanks TB,
I will search for the thread that you mentioned, Mnem also wanted some pics of the antenna assembly, I will post them later in the week when I am off and can work on it some more.

Is Heartlands where I need to get a replacement fuse from?

 

Well the F4 fuse does not seem to be the problem. The problem must be with the backlighting unit. If you hold a light up to the screen at the right angle the screen is somewhat readable so the graphics card is ok. I need to do more research on backlighting issues

 

Could be inverter, could be wiring to inverter, could be connectors at mobo, could be bad/broken CCFL tube.

You need a donor unit/test monkey...

mnem
Test MY monkey... hehHeh...

 

Guys Correct me if I am wrong, but I am thinking that the output from the inverter for the backlighting should be alternating current. Using my multi-meter set to the 200 volt AC range the multimeter says that there is 1 volt coming from the inverter to the backlight bulb. Does anyone know what the correct voltage should be? Also if my inverter is the problem will an inverter from a CF-29 work?

Thanks