CF-29 AC Charger Question

Ok so I needed like 5 AC's for my CF-29 and started buying them all over Ebay and such, but just got one in and its the black end I hear people talking about......When I bought this one off ebay all I looked at was the specs and model # on the back of AC which are identical to my yellow end one, but the end is a little smaller and the power cord is much thinner! Anyways it does go into the ac port of the TB, but is it ok or do I need to sell it and get the yellow end version? Here is a pic....

 

If the specs are the same as stock and the end plugs in... Try it out. The color doesn't mean much. The stock ones and most of the replacements are yellow tipped but I have seen black ones as well.

Make sure the voltages are the same.

 

All specs are IDENTICAL! Power, amps, polarity tip, even the model#......Guess I will try it out.....

 

Careful here. This pic is a non original equipment with out grounding. and the plug fuctionality is limited. Panasonic has revised the dc port several times to ensure that the factory ac adapter fits the port correctly. The angled tip limits damages to the port (as opposed to straight pin) and holds securely with a snap fit. Considering a new one...less than $50.00

 

WHAT?? It's totally grounded!!! One of the ends is a positive end and one is a grounded negative end... the mickey mouse ones have an EXTRA ground (IE, TWO GROUNDS!) To say that that isn't grounded is an incorrect statement as it totally IS grounded! Albeit, it's not double grounded, it should work JUST FINE.

 

This is true as well. I would be more careful with a straight tip one as it is easier to get damaged and to cause damage to the computer.

 

Its not aftermarket, its original......

 

No! its a fake one that imitated by a chinese manufacturer. The original AC adapter has a yellow tip(for cf-29) and with exact diamenter to hook it up on the socket. Thats why I always told to the buyer to be very carefull on buying a toughbook unit or parts. Its better to buy a an OEM IBM adapter rather than those aftermarket one. There are always a good deal on ebay for an OEM adapter for panasonic for less than 20 buck. You could use the cf-1583a that I have seen for only 17buck. Its an original and it has more wattage.


ohlip

 

Anyone tried the CF-18 16V 2.5A one with a CF-29 ?
It is a lot smaller and would be nicer for traveling with, But don't know if the extra .4V and -2.5A will harm anything ?
got a spare CF-AA1683A (15.6V, 8 amp) it is about 30% bigger than the 5Amp that came with my CF-29 and a very stiff power wire......

 

Adian, The IBM adapters some of us use are about the size of the CF-18 adapters but put out 4.5 amps. The 2.5 amp charger will be a long time charging a CF-29 but it will work. I have some IBM adapters for sale at $11 shipped, believe what you will, but there is some incredible nonsense being put out on the forum on the subject of power supplies. The third lead, "ground" on some, but not all, Panasonic adapters is to protect people not the computer. The 2.5 x 5.5mm right angle plug on the Panasonic power supply is different from the IBM only because it is right angle not straight, there is no other difference. We have been through the "burning up" your battery by using a 5 amp power supply instead of 3.8 amp myth several times, we have also established that 16v is fine for charging your toughbook, 20v is definitely NOT ok. If you want an OEM charger wait until you can get one cheap on eBay, if you want a very compact IBM charger PM me, if you want a DC/DC adapter get a Lind. If you want to be disappointed, buy a cheap Chinese knock-off on eBay.
CAP

 

Agree, Panasonics new style are not black tipped

Agree with Cap's informative post



Alex

 

Keep in mind that many of these...cheap...Non OEM adapters are NOT UL LISTED like this one....

http://cgi.ebay.com/Power-Supply-Ad...ZLaptop_Adapters_Chargers?hash=item4cee236e14

 

I am suggesting that you use OEM IBM adapters which are at least as good as Panasonic's. In fact, if you compare the CF-18 adapters to the IBM, they appear to have been made by the same manufacturer. Rick (Toughbook) has found some aftermarket adapters which seem to be of very good quality, he posted a link here somewhere. Any non-name brand adapter on eBay is suspect and is probably not worth buying.
CAP

 

Agreed. I like IBM adapters and the common power cord to boot.

 

JB -

If you don't have the 3-prong plug, you DON'T have a GROUNDED device, NO MATTER what it is.

Yes, when you look at your AC cord, you will have continuity between one pin and GROUND (The third round plug) but that pin is NOT the same as GROUND - it is the NEUTRAL pin. The NEUTRAL pin is intended to carry the return load from the HOT pin; the GROUND pin connects inside the appliance ONLY to a metallic case(if there is one) or a GROUND SHIELD (as is usually the case inside of switch-mode power bricks).

This lead is there for ONE PURPOSE - to protect YOU from electrocution if something fails inside the unit and HOT contacts the case or GROUND SHIELD, or if somewhere along the way (an improperly wired outlet or extension cord) the HOT and NEUTRAL pins get reversed. In either of those cases, the GROUND lead shunts the current to the NEUTRAL BUS inside the breaker box, thereby tripping the breaker and cutting off power to the faulty circuit so YOU don't wind up being the shortest path to GROUND.

Now... many modern appliances have a POLARIZED PLUG... in which you CANNOT reverse HOT and NEUTRAL at the plug because one pin is bigger than the other... but if you have a faulty outlet or extension as noted above, you COULD be exposed to HOT if you have a fault in your insulated case as well.

Believe me; the guys who wrote the National Electrical Code know a LOT more than you or I about how electricity can kill you; that is why we have a 1000 page book to make sure it gets done right, and that's why GROUNDED outlets are the law of the land.

mnem<~~~Has danced the Electric Dance~~~<<<

ZZZZZZZZZZT!

 

mnementh,
As one of the many knowledgeable electrical wizards in these pages I have the following question for you sir.
With the charger plugged in to the electrical outlet and the plug disconnected from the computer is there any current draw?
Thank you.
Jeff

 

Yes... There is current draw... All th home shows tell you to put these on power strips that you can disconnect as all wall-wart types draw a little current even if unused....

 

Yes. Any power supply, whether linear (transformer-based) or switch-mode, will have a certain amount of current draw (from the outlet) at idle. Typically a small fraction of the loaded current draw, but still there.

Obviously, there can be no current draw from the output side, as it is not connected.

You'll see these devices called a Kill-A-Watt supposedly intended to help you figure out how much current your devices are drawing; however, they really don't have enough resolution to be accurate at these low current levels, if they give you any reading at all.

To calculate the idle current draw, you need a good DVM and the knowledge of how to use it without electrocuting yourself.

mnem
amped.

 

That's what I like about you. You tell so much with a sense of humor nearly equal to mine. I do have one thing I can check. In the bathroom is the switch and meter for my inverter. It's in the "b" 'cause I'm usually there a couple times a day to wash my hands or whatever and the meter is looking me in the face. Plus it's the closest point to the inverter from with-in the house. Take now for instance there is five inches of snow on the ground and I can check available power or shut it off if the "frog is croaking" (low power warning) a phrase coined by my dear recently departed Uncle.
You probably didn't need to know all that.
The meter shows amperage draw but is not sensitive enough to detect the slight draw at idle from one of the ten or more converters in the cabin.
Thank you.
Jeff
TB..thank you for the response. Maybe I need to get a t.v. and watch a home show....NOT

 

OR, to be fried! The cheap "BriteOn" that came with my CF-29 started hissing and smoking last night out of the blue. It could have caused a fire if I had not been there to snatch it out of the wall!

 

Awww... that's just some electrons havin' themselves a lil' kegger. Replace the little kegs (electrolytic capacitors) with new, full ones and odds are you'll have them nice & tame again! Or, you'll have a brick... still.

mnem
electro-lit.

 

I precision cracked it open with a flat bladed screwdriver today, on that theory, to kill it or heal it.

The caps were fine, I just had to reflow the solider joints where the AC socket had broken free from the internal circuit board. It works fine now, but is being retried from the Tough life and will now be used to power my HP Scanner.

 

Just so I’m clear on this….Your giving this BriteOn NON UL Listed adapter one more chance to burn down the house

 

nah... he's talking about the 2nd house!

Personally, I'd only go with Pannys, IBM and Fujitsu's brick. Some of the China made ones scare me half to death!

 

And If you have any chance of having an OEM sony adaptor with the same voltage output. It is also a good replacement rather than the aftermarket.


ohlip

 

Don't be ridiculous, it is an apartment... and everyone deserves a 2nd chance!

Besides, it is UL listed and the problem was caused by the AC input getting flexed where I left the AC cord plugged in to the side of the power supply while traveling.

Also, I have done a little bit of electronics repair in my life.

Plus, My scanner is only on long enough long enough to scan and then I shut it down, it does not remain powered.

On top of that, I like to jump off of cliffs, but thanks for your concern.

 

And besides...

 

:laugh: Ha! I love it!

Of course, in all honestly, you might have said a little insane...

 

I might have... but that would be like a dragon telling a crocodile he has bad breath. >~~~~(;

mnem
*Makes mental note to chuck the Brimstone flavored Certs*