CF-52 MK3 LED backlit inverter?

First of all i would like to say Hello to everyone as i have been lurking about looking at several posts on this forum over the last year.
Well now the problem i have, its a CF-52 MK3 with a backlight problem (i.e it doesn't work), I bought this cf-52 with a broken screen and was assured that everything else worked o.k only to replace the screen and find out that either the led inverter is not working or their is a problem coming from the MB.
I dont have any workshop manuals for the cf-52 mk3, just pdf's and driver's for the cf-52 mk2 which i also have. Did think i could swap screens with my mk2 untill i found out the mk3 uses a led backlight and the inverter's/cables are completely different. I dont seem to be able to find a part number fror this mk3 inverter or any way that i could test it, i would like to know if anyone has had this problem and if they have pin out diags for the cables or manuals for the mk3 cf-52 all would be appreciated.
Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Welcome to the Toughbook forum
I don't think you will find a service manual for the MK3 here. We have had others looking for the same one and no luck. I have tried to buy an inverter before but they will only sell me one ifthey install it.

 

Thanks for the reply toughasnails, i have been offered the inverter supplied for £60 but that doesn't include delivery and they wouldn't give me the part no to search myself, I will maybe strip this again and see those part numbers myself. You never know, someone reading any of the posts might get hold of a service manual and post it for us.
regards to all Billyhl.

 

LED screens don't have inverters FYI...

 

LED-screens have inverters too but with a lower voltage.
But I don't believe, that he has an LED-driven backlight, except someone else has done the same, like I had done myself to change the CCFL into LED on his machine.
@billyhl: Could u pls post a pic from ur inverter and tell us ur full model number? The connector to the mainboard could be different. But the inverter itself should be the same.

 

Its actually a LED Driver PCB as shown, wiring harness is different to motherboard (splits to 3 plugs instead of 2 on the motherboard), this is why my cf-52 mk2 lcd screen will not fit.

Thanks for any usefull replies, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction to get one in the uk.

regards to all Billyhl.

 

Do you get an image on an external monitor?


Part number for the inverter is

DFUP1890ZA

 

Yes, if i connect the vga up i get a normal picture on an external display, I had to borrow a vga cable though as i couldn't find one that i own (lol)

Have tried searching that part number (Google) but dont seem to get any hits with it?.

Again thank-you for the help.

Regards to all Billyhl.

I have tried googling the part number again and found one on a certain auction site in the USA but he doesn't ship to the UK (My luck)

Will still have to try and source one in the UK or someone who will post it to the uk.

Regards to all Billyhl

 

Getting that part off of ebay and getting it to you is easy . Have you gone over the lines/cables again to see if the were plugged in good...just a thought. You should be able to send/receive PM's very soon. when you can I will send one.

 

Here are some official dealers to call.


Where to buy - Computer Product Solutions | Panasonic Business


Avnet Technology Solutions Ltd

Bracknell Office
5 The Sterling Centre
Eastern Road
Bracknell
Berkshire
RG12 2PW

+44 (0)1344 662000
[email protected]
Avnet Technology Solutions United Kingdom - Distributor of enterprise computing products, software and services


Toughbook

Centerprise International Limited

Hampshire International
Business Park
Lime Tree Way
Chineham
Basingstoke
Hampshire
RG24 8GQ

+44 (0) 1256 378000
CENTERPRISE - leading IT Service Provider. +44 (0) 1256 378 000 Robust Data, Efficient Management, Compelling Design


Toughbook

Computacenter (UK) Ltd

Hatfield Avenue
Hatfield
Herts
AL10 9TW

+44 (0)1707 631 000
Computacenter UK LTD - With you on the journey to the IT enabled business


Toughbook

ETC

Lyndon Place
2088/2098 Coventry Rd
Sheldon
Birmingham
B26 3YU

+44 (0) 845 155 7766
[email protected]
IT Technology Distribution | SDG


Toughbook

Insight Direct (UK) Limited

Insight Direct (UK) Limited
The Atrium
1 Harefield Road
Uxbridge
UB8 1PH
United Kingdom

+44 (0) 870 577 1100
Error | Insight UK


Toughbook

Mem-Star (UK) Limited

Unit 25, Boroughfields Centre
Wootton Bassett
Swindon
Wiltshire
SN4 7AX

+44 (0) 208 123 9995
The Recommended source for Panasonic Toughbook Laptops and accessories.


Toughbook

Spirit Data Capture Ltd

Evan House
Sutton Quays Business Park
WA7 3EH

+44 (0)1928 718 800
Spirit Data Capture - Rugged Mobile Computing Solutions


Toughbook

Storm Technologies

The Boulevard
Blackmoor Lane
Croxley Business Park
Watford
WD18 8YW

+44 (0)1923 801 080
Storm Technologies


Toughbook

The Barcode Warehouse Limited

Telford Drive
Newark Industrial Estate
Nottinghamshire
NG24 2DX

+44 (0) 800 043 66 55
Barcode Scanner | Buy barcode scanners, barcode readers, barcode label printers, plastic card printers, barcode hardware & software UK

 

Hell, I did not know, that Panasonic had build an CF-52MK3 with LED-backlight. I want to know more about this unit. Model number, display resolution?

 

Shawn- Have to say mate A big thanks for those official dealers names/numbers, didn't know there were so many in the UK.

Toughasnails - thanks for the advice mate, might need to go over the cables and pcb more thoroughly.

I have messaged the guy on the auction site to see if he will deliver to the UK as i do have 100% feedback on there, should that fail i will try the dealers.

Still dont know what voltages should be coming from the mb though without a wiring diagram that is useless to check.

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

I was waiting for your enthusiasm once I posted that it was an official Toughbook part.

 

If your 52 has had a crunch the fault may not be with the LED Driver PCB itself but with a fuse on the main board. Given an understanding of multimeter use, ESD precautions & electrical safety it's at least worth a look with a magnifier and a torch.

Laptops have a number of surface mount fuses, mostly on the main board, often close to the connector leading to the protected circuit. I don't see any on your LED Driver board.

Suggest finding all the images you can online of SMD fuses (surface mount device) so you can distinguish them from other components. They're frequently marked on the board as F--- for fuse. Diodes are D---, resistors R---, capacitors C--- etc.

 

This is a great Call....Great advice. These surface mount fuses are tough to see with over 40 eyes. I had a 51MK3 with no LCD backlight. The LCD worked in other units and a external monitor worked too.

I had the MB out in my hand with one eye and a magnifying glass and found a blown surface mount fuse.

This photo is a 51MK2 MB surface mount fuse.

 

Thanks for the tip unclemack will have a quick look at the MB tonight, and yes us 40 something's might have a problem locating any blown fuse's, what are they like to change? does it involve soldering new one's on as that ain't happening with me (lol).
Thanks for the photo 158SR, i wouldn't have a clue as to what i was looking for without it so it is appreciated that you took the time to share that photo with me.
In case anyone wants to know the model no is CF52PFNBVPE and motherboard is DL3UP1912BCA

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

If there is a fuse blown, you have first to check why the fuse is gone. Normally because one circuit was consuming too much power, because of an failure in it. If u reattach a new fuse and the failure is still present, the new fuse will also die or u will get another electronically problem, because a thermal fuse isn't that fast to protect the components really good.
Because of a blown fuse: u need a sharp slim, about 15W soldering iron. And a new fuse with the same value from ur radio shack.
No need to detach the blown fuse. (But u can do it quiet easy, if u want, with a well fitting hot air jet nozzle . )
Just soldering the new fuse on the top of the old one. Use only a small amount of tin-solder.

Question for me: Do u know, which display it is? On the backside of the LCD should be an white label with a number... TIA

 

The screen was missing from the cf-52 when i bought it but i messaged the user who told me that the old screen had the number LP154WX7 (TL)(P2) on the back of it, apparently there are several different connections on these and the one i got from a certain uk auction website was item number 370648399712 which stated "NEW 15.4" LED Screen LP154WX7(TL)(P2) or equivalent compatible BLOCK Connector", I had provided them with pictures from the LED Driver PCB and this was the screen that was suggested for this cf-52. Hope this helps onirakkiss, and thanks for your input.

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Thank U, thats what I want to know.
Here LP154WX7-TLP2 Datasheet download - Panelook.com U will find some more specifications, especially interesting are the:
Lamp Voltage : 20.3/22.4/23.8V (Min./Typ./Max.) (thats why u need an inverter to stepup from ur battery voltage)
and the LED Interface Pins : 12 pins
Pin Configuration : BLE-12PINS-ACACACACACAC

 

Definetly an interesting read onirakkiss, thanks for the link to the document sheet.

Looks like i have quite a few things to be checking for when i get home tonight.

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Got a photo showing the mb connections, anyone want to speculate what to check with the meter?

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Well the F4N 2A is a 2amp fuse. It appears to me that the fuse is missing! It should have a N on it just like the one beside the F2N 2A fuse.


I guess I am incorrect :hi2:

 

No, F3S 4A is the fuse, which u have to check. It should be 0 Ohm

U can also check the voltages on the connector.

Btw, ur connectors are the same, like they are for an CCFL display. So I think u can swap the displays easily, if they have the same resolution. (Otherwise u have to change a value deep in the BIOS.)

 

But this has 3 connectors and my ccfl display only has 2 do i just LEAVE 1 OUT (joking)

F4N 2A no change on meter

F2N 2A goes to 0.00

F3S 4A goes to 0.00

I think i see a patern here (lol), maybe should get this F4N 2A checked out, what if i short across it?

If someone had switched the toughbook on after the screen was smashed could that have blown this fuse or am i looking for more?

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

First I'd have a closer look at the solder where the fuse was.
You can tell whether the fuse has been knocked off by accident - solder will have flat or torn faces where the rectangular fuse was, copper lands may be torn. Can't tell from the picture (not criticising!) but if removed by melting, ie soldering iron/hot air it'll be shiny & without sharp edges & someone else has probably already tried a fuse replacement.
A 2A fuse wouldn't likely get hot enough to melt the solder and fall off when it operates (blows).
I would short it with the probes, analogue meter on the 10A range to see what's happening. More than 2A lift a probe instantly.
Safer to replace the fuse first of course but you said "no soldering" I think.
Oh yes, forgot...
Is PA1 a thermal resettable? Transient suppressor? Anyone know? I can't remember anything much.

Edit. Think it is a resettable (polyswitch). Test it for continuity like a fuse.

 

just switch the machine on and check the voltage against the chassis on every single pin on the 8pin-connector, which will power up ur backlight. But be really carefully, cause if u short the wrong pins with ur multimeter, another fuse will be blown, or something else.

The third connector is for the touchscreen.

 

Welcome!
Think I saw this recently on a certain auction site! Gave it a miss as if it was just a straight forward screen replacement, they would have done it!
Not able to offer much technical help but if you need an OS/Drivers I still have some of these:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/tou...962-fs-cf-52-mk3-recovery-disc-w7-32-bit.html
Goodluck. Lets hope it is fixable!

 

@unclemack : I've got no idea what the PA1 is either but will take the rest of your comments on board and examine the fuse closer, still need to source one of these 2a fuses.

@onirakkiss : The mk3 uses the 3 connections on the MB and their is no touchscreen this is why my ccfl with only 2 connections and slightly different won't fit, i would however like to know what these voltages should be if anyone can help with the 8 pins.

@MrRe : PM'd you for one of those DVD's and yes you did see this on a certain auction site recently

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Maybe this will help u:

could u show me/us a pic of ur connectors and cables?

This is a view from a CF-52 with touchscreen:

 

Was just googling around your model number CF-52PFNBVPE & found post #5 by Shawn in "CF-52 Wifi Issue" - I'd completely forgotten that 52's had a WUXGA screen option as well as WXGA.
I've no idea which screen yours has or should have, don't know how to find that information for a European Toughbook and don't know if it makes any difference anyway.
Probably wasn't worth posting... sorry

 

I might be jumping in a bit late. I have found the the CF-52 MK3 has a big problem with the screens. I have three sitting here with the same problem. Blank screen but good output on the VGA connector. In every case it is not the screen, inverter nor the fuses. It is two very small sma devices. One is a OR gate and the other is a AND gate. In all three cases, these two chips are bad. I have been super busy with other projects and haven't had a chance to touch those in some time but hope to get back to them soon.

 

@onirakkiss the wiring diagram is gobbeldy-gook to me but the picture of the wires is similar just less wire's, I will post a pic of my connections when i get home tonight.

@unclemack never be sorry for posting something that might help, sometimes it can be something simple that trigger's someone else to remember similar problems that might in turn help to fix this.

@rusty503 better late than never my friend, You having 3 CF-52 MK3's with the same problem sounds interesting, if you could get a chance to test your theory on the small sma devices and let me know where they are and how to test them then that would be appreciated, sounds like you are busy but if you haven't been able to touch them in some time then thats a lot of money's worth of kit just laid about doing nothing and i think you should make an effort to fix them (lol).

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

How do u know, that the LED-inverter is not working, if u have no screen?
So if the display of ur MK2 is only using 2 connectors, where is the problem? Just plug it in!
The connector on the top left is normally powering ur (CCFL-)inverter. I'm not sure, about the 1.pin of this connector on the bottom; could be ground (ground is "-" or 0V against the chassis) or it could be the supply voltage for the inverter like it should be on the second pin, where u should found 5V or 10V to 13V. The 3. could be the same (if I count correct or u have to go one back). The 4. (or 3.) pin is the PWM-signal, which will be between 0 to 6V, depending on ur choice of brightness with the keys. I'm unsure about the nxt 2 pins, just check them out. At least the last 2 pins (near 8) are ground (-).
Before u starts to measure anything, it is a good idea to find out, if there is a better connection area for ur test-tips of ur multimeter for a safe work without any harm for the electronic circuit on the board. So u can see, that pin7 and 8 have a connection to the soldering point on the right of them and pin2 should have connection to the fuse F3 S4A ( which means: fuse number 3, quick response, 4A). U can check this, if u had first pull out! the power plug and the battery from ur notebook, while using the multimeter as a continuity checker between the connector pins and the soldering pads around.
If u don't have a clue what I mean, someone should check my spelling or go to the next electronic expert. I'm in London for some days in June (ZZ-Top) or u can send the parts to me. But the best thing is to solve it urself

 

Hey, that's not an inveter, just a step down (buck) current regulator driven by a microcontroller (square chip), to light up the led with the proper current to obtain the right brightness and remain in the correct spectral wavelenght (without fading to green/blueish or reddish).

 

As far as I know, it is a Boost converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia because the output voltage is greater than the input voltage. This is also called an inverter, because the word is used for DC-AC-converters, even if it has a DC-output and is PWM-controlled. But this is not the topic.

 

I guess we need to know the voltage requirements of the led light strip to determine if it is buck or boost. Now where was that post with the panel number.......here ya go.....

LG Display LP154WX7-TLP2 Backlight System

Lamp Position : Edge light Type
Lamp Type : WLED
Lamp Amount : 7S6P [8S6P: 8 Serial, 6 Parallel]
Lamp Shape : 6 strings
Lamp Life Time : 12,000(Hours)
Lamp Voltage : 20.3/22.4/23.8V (Min./Typ./Max.)
Lamp Current : 5.0/20.0/21.0mA (Min./Typ./Max.)
Lamps Power Consumption : 2.7/3.0W (Typ./Max.)
Lamp Driver Board : No
Interface Type : Connector
Interface Brand : Tyco
Interface Model : 1-179397-2
Interface Amount : 1 pcs
Interface Pins : 12 pins
Pin Configuration : BLE-12PINS-ACACACACACAC





Here are the specs for a LCD version with CCFL

SHARP LQ154M1LW1C Backlight System
Lamp Position : Edge light Type (bottom side)
Lamp Type : CCFL
Lamp Amount : 1 pcs [8S6P: 8 Serial, 6 Parallel]
Lamp Shape : Straight
Lamp Life Time : 10,000 (Hours)
Lamp Voltage : 680V (Typ.)
Lamp Current : 3.0/6.0/6.5mA (Min./Typ./Max.)
Lamp Operating Frequency : 40/60/80KHz (Min./Typ./Max.)
Lamp Startup Voltage : 1000V (Max.)(Ta=0℃
Lamps Power Consumption : 4.1W (Typ.)
Lamp Driver Board : no
Interface Type : connector
Interface Brand : JST
Interface Model : BHSR-02VS-1
Interface Pin Pitch : 3.5 mm
Interface Amount : 1 pcs
Interface Pins : 2 pins
Pin Configuration : BLL-2PINS-HL

 

Just look at post#19: http://forum.notebookreview.com/panasonic/705531-cf-52-mk3-led-backlit-inverter.html#post9051599

 

..................................................

 

I think post #6 might hold a clue to the output voltage... TJE 028V-0

 

No, this are different ones selfmade with a buck, because this LED-stripes need less voltage than the input voltage. And so it's gone complete offtopic....

 

sorry about that...

 

@onirakkiss pin2 should have connection to the fuse F3 S4A but cotinuity checker says no on one side but o.k on the closest side of fuse? pin7 and 8 have a connection to the soldering point on the right of them (confirmed with continuity checker). Checked for voltage between solder point and all pins (laptop on/screen on) and no voltage shown on any pins.

 

Forgot to mention the fact that i have a new screen plugged in and i get an image faintly on the screen but there is no backlight working, works fine to an external monitor. So yes i was just assuming the pcb inverter driver but that may not be the problem.

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

I think ur fuse is dead. In post nr 24 u wrote "F3 S4A goes to 0.00". We had expected, that u had checked the fuse(s) with a multimeter adjusted for resistor measuring but I think, u had used voltage measuring So again make the laptop complete powerless and use ur coninuity checker against the two pins of (every) fuse(s) and come back to us with the values.

(And good pictures! Which camera are u using?)

 

There's a couple of things I can see on the picture in post #42. Above F2, half in shadow, is what looks like a burned area.

To the right of F2 is the big connector. Pins 8 & 9 (counting rightwards from where it's marked "1" on the bottom left corner) have something going on but I can't see what.

edit: I should have checked back to the pic in post # 21 before posting this - sorry.

Have Panasonic stopped marking connector numbers on the boards?

 

I think thats only check color from the marker brush on the connector...

 

On my CF-51 MK3 the surface mount fuse was missing. It was blown off the board. It sure looks like the same thing happened here at the F4 location. I took a single strand of wire and jumped it. I had next to nothing in this CF-51 if it smoked it was no big deal.

 

the not soldered fuse, which u marked, is for the LVDS signal converter on some displays. His display is getting the power via pin 2 and 3, not 5.
If this fuse has to be existing and is now not, as u described, he would not be possible to see a picture on a working display, even without backlight.
But to be fair, sometimes they fly really away, like u wrote

 

@onirakkiss Yes mate i might have had the meter set incorectly at first (it has been a while) but when i did check it today with battery out and no PS there was bo continuity across it or from one side to pin 2 so i would say that this needs to be replaced, now to find a 2a normal and a 4a slow blow fuse and then to get them soldered onto the board and try again (lol), I am using a Samsung Galaxy S3 for the photo's by the way.
I will have another look at this tomorrow as too knackered over the weekend with my pet Dogs/Horses (lol)

Regards to all Billyhl.

 

Pls replace only F3, the 4A fuse.
U can check that this will help and that u have no other failures with ur multimeter - set to current measuring above 4A (and hopefully ur multimeter has a internal fuse...). If u put all together (chassis, display...) switch it on and put the multimeter measuring tips on each end of the blown fuse. U should see the light is going on and ur multimeter will show u some numbers with a value less than 4A (maybe 50-100mA). If it is nearly or above 4A, pull the tips quick away, cause u will have a failure in ur led-driver-board.
It could be easier for u, if u first solder 2 thin wires on the blown fuse. So u will get an easy access for ur measuring pins and later u can also soldering a normal fuse on the end of the wires and isolate them with something and fix it on the position behind the connectors. There is enough place for a normal fuse.