CF-52P USB ports

A customer of mine called me saying oe of his laptops isnt working. So I go down there and he shows me the USB port which is burned on 1 pin the whole length. I plug the usb device in and get no sound but the power light on the device shows green. I plug it to the adjacent port and same thing happens. No sound, power light is green. I plug it in the back ports and get no sound and a red fail light on the device in both back ports. The port that is burned shows power but the back ports which had nothing to do with it shows fail. I checked device manager and all is good there. Arent the front and side usb ports separated from each other so if 1 dies the other will still work?
Are they a swappable/replaceable?
What would cause both to go out?
I just need to get at least 1 usb port working.

 

Let me see if I have photos of one of the times I disassembled my CF 52...

Not my photo but it is a CF 52..It's a i5 not i3 but that should not matter for usb purposes.

 

usb ports are on motherboard ..I am sure there is at least one blown fuse..The fuses are .125 long...Yes that is 1/8 of an inch....

You will need a motherboard or to replace the CF 52...
If you have never replaced a motherboard on a CF 52, it is time consuming as you need to do a complete tear down of the bottom half.
Motherboard needs to be an i3 as the i5 will have different heat sink assemblies.......

PM me if you are interested in a complete CF 52P....I do have one

 

Did not know they had fuses. Are they replaceable? Yes I have disassembled several CF-52's and agree it is time consuming. PM me a price for a bare shell. No HD, no DVD, no LCD, no port covers, no RAM, no battery, no power adapter. CF-52PGNBP1M

 

Ok,, I will figure a price and send a PM. Probably not tonight..I am too tired to calculate money tonight...

 

Fuses are replaceable....Teo (ohlip) has many posts. Look at toughasnails search engine. Top of the page somewhere.
Shawn will not steer you wrong.
Do ya have a Linux Live disk? I am very interested in the output of "lsusb" in terminal. IOW what a broken USB system looks like.

Good luck.

J'd (jayburd)

 

Jeff,
Have you ever replaced or tried to replace those fuses?... I am working on a CF31 now for Kerry....let me tell you I have a hard time just SEEING those darn things...can't wait to try and solder them....I have a fresh bottle of Xanax waiting....Only reason I am attempting to replace the fuses on the CF 31 is the motherboard is very expensive...Dimensions are 1/8" by 1/16" inch

 

Sorry mate my hands shake at least 3/16 a quiver. I never tried it. Cool pictures.

 

I have a live drive disk. I just dont know how to get it from the laptop

here ya go. use wordpad

 

As suspected some missing components. Cool, but not for you.

Here is 53JULA (cut and paste from terminal:
MINE:
jula@jula-CF-53JULA21M ~ $ lsusb
Bus 002 Device 003: ID 0430:0532 Sun Microsystems, Inc.
Bus 002 Device 002: ID 8087:0024 Intel Corp. Integrated Rate Matching Hub
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 005: ID 147e:2016 Upek Biometric Touchchip/Touchstrip Fingerprint Sensor
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 1199:68a2 Sierra Wireless, Inc.
Bus 001 Device 003: ID 044e:301d Alps Electric Co., Ltd
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 8087:0024 Intel Corp. Integrated Rate Matching Hub
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub

YOURS:
Bus 002 Device 002: ID 8087:0020 Intel Corp. Integrated Rate Matching Hub
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 8087:0020 Intel Corp. Integrated Rate Matching Hub
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub

Stuff missing I should think.

I don't know so I am asking....can lsusb be used to find the circuit the bad fuse is on? It hurts my head.

 

Some missing stuff is probably because it is disabled in the BIOS like wifi, WWAN, Bluetooth, wireless switch.

 

hmmm ...
if you knew which sub-feed fuse was responsible for supplying voltage to a device or devices then the missing "stuff" would *point to* the suspect fuse(s) .
elsewise , stabbing across each fuse with an ohmmeter is the way to go .
and shawn is not kidding , those fuses are tiny ... a flea could use them as a footstool .
as seen here in my '52 touch screen build :
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/cf52-mk2-touchscreen-build-part-2.778110/

if i had a really good , high pixel file of a whole '52 MB , i would label the fuse points and post it for posterity .
i gotta say , those schematics have much to be desired .

 

CF-52p core i3...pos.

 

I finally got to the bottom of it.
A few weeks ago the same customer had a problem with the CF-52 not turning on. He said it was working then he turned it off (his turn off is closing the lid) while it was on the charger then next morning it would not turn on. The MB charging/power circuits were bad so took out his battery and hard drive and placed them in another CF-52G.
I get a call Sunday night that 2 of his 3 Toughbooks wont power on. The only one working is the CF-18B which I replaced the CMOS battery a month ago. I go over there on Monday and his 52G and 52P are down. The 52G has same symptoms as it did a few weeks ago. The 52P has the burned USB port.
I find out he has been charging them with a 3rd party 12v car adapter. I assumed when he said charge it was with a/c adapter. I dont think those have a smart charging system and just keeps pumping current. I told him I would only use them to power the laptop while it was connected to the trucks but not for power off charging.
I looked for a solution and Panasonic only recommends Linde which I am going to get for him. Sometimes they have to leave it connected to the diesel trucks for hours doing tests and regens.
The 52P was also using that car adapter when it burned the USB port and the USB cable.

 

The voltage for the third party car charger is probably too high...

 

Have you considered a modest inverter and then use regular chargers? That's what I use. I try to only use my mobile chargers for emergency.

Hey surf ninja. Use a file and reshape one or two tips for the solder iron. I made a few needle tips and a few narrow spade tips. Also invest in a large lighted self supporting magnifying glass. I gave up on S/M electronics years ago. Not enough patience in my old age. Used to rebuild CBs, Hams, Scanners, ect.

 

I agree...that was the best 20 bucks I ever spent.

 

The Lind charger is the proper professional way...It is what almost every law enforcement and rescue vehicle use...simple, rugged, and small in size with built in heat sinks. You can even get a timer so they auto shut off after 1 to 18 hours.
An inverter will work, but it's not efficient to convert the voltage from 13.5volts DC to 120volts AC, Then convert the 120volts AC back to 16volts DC. A lot of extra components, heat, and power loss with an inverter. Not to mention the safety issues with 120volts AC that you don't have with low voltage DC..

I actually have the right tool for the solder job....
Antex 12W Miniature Soldering Iron Type M12
I have the .5mm tip. Photo has non USA plug but you get the idea.

 

Had u tried the self diagnosis test? (Use <Ctrl>+<F10> key to skip BIOS password or authentication of fingerprint. This key is only for entering DIAG mode. Not available to boot the computer. If customer set "HDD Lock", the DIAG program cannot perform HDD test. This key is for service purpose only. Do not disclose this information to unrelated others.)


If u have a broken SMD-Fuse it is easier to solder a new fuse on top of the old broken fuse instead to try to unsolder it.


If u get power from the USB-port (as u wrote in ur first post), there is no fuse broken. Also the USB-ports have a electronic fuse ( OCP USB2.0: 500mA per channel ) in a IC.

What I understand so far is, ur problem sounds more like the garage stuff is using some kind of tester connected to the truck. If the tester is a badly buildup construction, it could be possible to get voltage return from the truck via tester inside the laptop, if the laptop is off. This electrical current will kill ur USB-IC.

 

about soldering irons ...
many of the tips of the *better* irons are (wait for it) ... iron plated (or some other metal) that does not readily go into solution with molten solder .
filing these tips will cut through that plating and the life of the tip will be very short .

i have wellers , ungar and hakko irons/stations ... all with changeable plated tips .
one weller is about 30 years old ... it was one of my daily drivers at an electronics shop i worked in and also broadcast engineering ...
there are three tips i keep with it , all original , all about 30 years old .

good quality tools are an investment that pay for themselves many times over .

@ shawn :
i had an iron similar to your antex ...
it grew legs and walked off at a mountain top transmitter site .
i believe the name was *oryx* .

 

I had an idea I am going to try out..I picked up a used Microsoft Lifecam cheap
They are rated VERY good in low light. I am going to attach it to a stand about 12" above my work table. Maybe my tripod?? Plug the webcam in to my CF52 and solder using the digital enlargement on the screen. Call me Dr Search Ninja now. I will be the electronics surgeon. .