Cf-29L won't run on battery power

Well like the title says I got me one that won't run on battery power. tried multiple batteries and they are all good. changed out the battery/ Hard drive connector and that did nothing. Odd thing is that it charges the battery when hooked up to ac power but once I unplug that, it stays on for a few seconds and then completely dies. Hopefully I can get this unit working because it's in very good condition other than this problem. even has a touchscreen which I'm running low on.

Dan

 

You might have to open him up and check the solder points on the battery connector inside the laptop. If you know how to use a flow station, re-flow the solder around the joints. Teo has suggested this in the past and it has worked for others. See him if you have any detailed questions...

 

As Doobi said, open it up and check all the pin maybe bend or loose. Sometime missing one pin leg, who knows. Just go ahead and check.


ohlip

 

Which solder points are you referring to?

 

Also have a look on the gold-contacts on the battery and in the notebook and clean them with a fibre glass brush. Sounds like u have not a good contact on the battery for the drain current.

 

well i have put a few different batteries in it that work in other machines and I have also changed out the HDD/Battery connector from a machine where it was working fine. I'm thinking there is something on the mobo somewhere that's killing the voltage, like an obscure fuse or something

 

Dan... It is the connector in some way, shape or form... Whether it is a bad connector pin, loose solder joint or whatever... Just give it a look-see and tell us what you see.

 

You want to look on the inside of your 29 to where the battery would be plugging into. There is a connector there that receives the battery. Where that connector attaches to the board is where you want to carefully inspect under 20-50x magnification and re-flow the solder if necessary. Also, the contacts on the connector could be dirty or have crud so check that too.

 

ok I thought that's what you meant but i just haven't had time to do it yet. Had to fix a crapton of HP computers and toughbooks today

 

I pulled the whole motherboard out to get a better look at everything. I looked over everything on the board very carefully and I don't see anything out of the ordinary i didn't have a 20-50x magnification lens but I do have a 10x

 

Double check with Teo (username Ohlip), but I think you would need higher magnification to see a break. Or you could just try to re-flow it and see what happens.

 

Well i'm gonna need better magnification anyway so I'll throw down on a new looking glass soon. I can put this one on the backburner till then, I have plenty of other crap to do

 

Dan,

Send it to me and I'll look at it if you like. Or... I have a few spare crap CF-29 hulk bodies where there are battery/hard drive connectors there. Let me know what you want to do.

 

Thanks for the offer but I'm just gonna ignore it for a few weeks and that will give me time to get some new equipment. I need new toys anyway

 

MORE POWER-R-R-R! WHUH-WHUH-WHUH... :wink:

I use a Dazor 8mr-300 with the floor pedestal bought from a doctor's office; the 3 diopter 5x7 Stretch-View lens is not as strong as some I've had, but the focal length is long enough that I still have enough room for my tools to work under it, and the field of view is HUGE; really nice for keeping the entire board in focus when you're following traces. Be warned; they are made for industry & medical use; they ARE EXPENSIVE.

http://www.dazor.com/magnifying-lamp.html

I have a couple flip-down lenses from a jeweler's glasses epoxied to the side of it for really close up inspections if need be, and that 18-watt fluorescent lamp REALLY brings up the contrast for thorough PCB examinations. The key to successfully finding faults under magnification is good lighting; you want a strong white-blue light with as little glare as possible - you can find a lot more under weaker magnification as long as you have good lighting.

mnem
Still working on that gas-powered Dispos-All...

 

Jeez I have to sell a couple toughbooks to buy one of them. tsk tsk, rick i'm raising your prices to fund my new toys

Dan

 

Hi,
Did you ever found what was on the origin of the fault?
I used to have one with similar problems, and it was fuse 2 (F2) near the connector (marked with T on the surface, Fuse is 5A) that was blown

 

I don't know if he will be back... I have tried to email Psych0Thrasher several times and he hasn't responded to me.

 

I know it was an old post, but somebody can perhaps have profit of it if they have a similar problem.
It is an easy replace, it happens to dumb like me that doing things inside without removing the battery

 

I have lost touch with him as well, I also had this problem and found it to be the same fuse. I think I blew it by removing the battery while the AC was plugged in