Hi All,
Newbie here, just picked up several CF-28's being dumped cheap ($100) in the local market. Finding a lot of great info, many thanks!
Got an idea for a hack to utilize the "hidden" internal PCMCIA slot that I didn't see discussed here. Wanted to add a GPS, but then got to thinking USB is the most versatile of all ports and can easily support GPS (dongle, roof mount, etc). Soooo now thinking of adding a USB 2.0 slimline PC card in the hidden slot, then routing one of the USB ports to the antenna hole on the top left side of the display. Looks like a stripped down USB socket would just fit inside, with a little filing, and the rubber cover could still be used to seal the hole when not used. Convenient plug for a dongle GPS with good view of the sky, or any other USB device.
Hard part seems like finding/making a USB plug for the PC card that fits inside the small clearance inside the case.
The other USB port could be routed to another (side?) location for easy access, maybe on the empty left cover plate where I plan to install the antenna for a wifi hack (just got a new EnGenius mini-pci card, pigtail is coming).
Any try this before? Thoughts, cautions, warnings .... ??
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I think usb cards have been put in the normal pcmcia area
I dont remember if anyone has put anything other than the cisco wi-fi card or the Bluetooth in the hidden slot
I did the cisco wi-fi upgrade on a cf-28 years ago, but if I was going to add wi-fi today it would be a mini-pci b/g card for sure
Great idea on placing a usb jack on the lid
Two or three years ago when the cf-28 was the most common model being modified there was no compact gps dongles on the market
And having a port on the lid would work for a cellular wwan card dongle as well
Alex -
I've had one of the AKE dual-port shortie USB cards working in the hidden slot with one port to an internal hub, and one port hacked to the rear USB to make it USB 2.0. I later modded a port from the hub to bring it up to the LCD, but then the uber-cheapo AKE card died on me & I haven't gotten back to that project.
I've since considered a different tack; I thought I might hack a USB Hub in at the Touchscreen driver board. I believe it's USB, isn't it? I know it would only be USB 1.1, but that would be plenty to run a cheapo GPS module and/or a second WiFi adapter. 12MB/S is still faster than most people's best WiFi connection at 54Mb/S...
mnem
Bytes vs Bits... bibbity bobbity BOO... -
The only problem with adding a detachable antenna on the top of the LCD is that it can be easily broken or lost. There was a guy on ebay a few years back that did it with an SMA screw on connection. It looked like crap and, I'm sure, performed like crap as the guy was a flash in the pan. After a few months he was gone. But he tried to tell everyone that HIS way of doing it was the best. NOT!
Yes... It CAN be done... But it doesn't mean that it should be done.
Try it out and see if you like it. If so... Snap pics and we'll let you know what we think. -
Ummm...
Rick... what he's talking about is mounting a USB port on the top edge of the LCD, so one could just plug in a USB stick-type GPS, WWAN, WiFi, etc adapter. If anchored & sealed properly, I think it is an idea with some merit.
Of course you still have the issue of things that hang on by a USB port being inherently fragile, similarly to your point about the external antenna; but that's an argument to take up with the people who manufacture the USB devices.
mnem
Plug me in, BAYBEEE! -
Yup... I got that... My point was that, while fine in theory, something sticking out of the top of the LCD that isn't anchored securely will eventually be lost or broken. Yeah it sounds like a cool idea and it would be a fairly easy hack... But I think it would suck out a little of the Toughbook's "tough factor" to have a USB sticking out of the top of the LCD. Just my opinion of course...
Heck... I use to build them with the SMA router antennas sticking out of the top. Works great, looks kinda cool... But definitely NOT tough! Most broke off eventually. -
Got the hidden USB card working. Had to remove the AKE card's built-in sockets and solder in 2 USB cables to make things fit. Just barely had room to route the cables from the outer edge of the hidden slot down inside next to the regular PC card cages. One cable hooks up the the USB cable coming down from the top of the display. The USB socket mounted on the top of the display turned out pretty good and is a handy location. Can still replace the OEM rubber plug to seal it up when not in use. The 2nd extender cable from the hidden USB card is routed to the area under the battery where the RIM card/sled is on some models.
I'm working on dual USB ports built into the left side pop-out under the palm rest. Cut down a 4 port mini-hub to just the 2 that would fit. Sealed the deal with silicone RTV, will test it out when the goop dries.
One nice feature (besides full speed USB 2.0) is the ability to switch off the hidden card using Fn-Tab to save power. Also shuts down the mini-hub and everything attached like a GPS dongle on the display top.
While the display back was removed, I also mounted a small square (patch?) antenna, the OEM kind for WiFi, behind the upper right side rubber pad. Had to trim a little off one corner to make it fit cleanly under the pad but it still seems to work pretty good.
Took a few pics of the job, will post them soon ... -
Sounds like a good hack... Waiting for pictures!
<tapping feet.....>
Yes... The Fn + Tab is a great way to control it. It's funny... U just spent the early afternoon installing a USB Bluetooth to the innards of a CF-29! I just need to find an easy way to turn it off and on other than building a Darlington Circuit every time. -
Tried to keep standard USB connections where possible. Using cheap USB cables made it easy to split apart the covers to use just the connectors
1. Mounted the USB socket and WiFi antenna on the display top. Cut the antenna hole to fit the USB socket.
Then mounted an OEM WiFi antenna under the other top corner bumper (got that idea from the antennas on my new CF-29).
Finished display back is ready to be remounted, with cabling routed inside to the hidden PC card slot and mini-PCI WiFi card.
2. Modify the USB card with pigtailed sockets. Split the card open and de-soldered the standard connectors.
Need 1 pigtail about 12" to reach under the battery. The other is about 4" just long enough to connect to the lead from the display top socket.
Inserting the USB card and routing the cables was very tight, especially since I added an external PR-SMA WiFi jack next to the LAN and modem ports.
[pics pending]
3. Add 2 USB ports to left side. First I cut down a 4 port mini-hub.
Then cut a square hole in the left bumper, inserted the 2 USB sockets, and gooped it all up good with black silicone RTV.
The USB hub simply plugs into the extended USB card cable under the battery. Enough room to add another stripped-down 4 port USB mini-hub if more USB ports are needed.
I'll post pics of the outside and top sockets another day ... -
LOL - That's the same USB hub I used on my internal USB hack - tho instead of fighting with the thickness of USB cables I used twisted pairs from Cat5 cable; it worked well. Remember, your ToughBook already has the best RF shielding in the world - a magnesium case!
I'm a firm believer in the superiority of a soldered connection over plugged-in - especially after looking at the crunky plating on those AKE USB ports...
Good documentation - Rep to you!
EDIT: ACCK! Hurry up & post some more soze I can hit you with some REP!!!
mnem
Woohoo! Another hack attack for the archives! -
Excellent write-up! Rep to you for sure! Excellent documentation with the pics. Where were you three years ago?
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That project is progressing nicely Ken
I would like to see some final pictures soon
What happens when I get that evolved in a project, is the longer its apart in pieces the greater the chance on the cat eating or chewing on something
I remember once I had a replacement screen for a cf-m34
I was about to change it out and I noticed the flat cable that connects on the m/b had teeth marks and holes in it
Alex -
Thanks Rick and Alex. Actually it did get put together by the end of the evening. I tested the pigtailed USB card before installing it internally. All 3 new USB 2.0 ports work good with a memory stick. Now need to try with a GPS dongle on top, and maybe an external HDD on the side ports.
Anyone know of a utility to test USB port speed (other than timing a large file transfer)?
Will get some pics of the finished results posted tonight. -
I'd be very interested to know if the external hard drive works on the twin ports on the side. I could swear someone has tried this before and they didn't provide the correct voltage to run the external drive. I might be thinking of a different hack though. We've had a few USB hacks... But none showed as well as yours!
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Toughbook -
I think that may be how I ultimately killed my AKE card - the PCMCIA slot only provides 300ma current total for all ports, while typical HDD needs 600ma.
Springfield - you'll need to tap into a source of 5V OUTSIDE of your PCMCIA slot and feed it back to the the 5V input jack on the AKE card.
Good luck!
mnem
Zzzzt! -
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I have schematics... You should be able to search and find one relatively easily...
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You can get it from your OE USB port... you need to make sure it's a switched source of 5V, and laptops don't have massive +5V rail like a desktop. Ohlip knows the schematic on these guys a lot better than I do...
mnem
Bleeep! -
I have found that normal external hardrives are hit and miss on various usb ports
I have one with an old 10GB hard drive and it would work on some desktops, but not all
It usually worked on the Toughbooks but usb storage devices draw a lot less power, and are available at reasonable prices nowdays
You can find some with an external power adapter if you really want mega storage
I personally prefer usb solid state memory storage
I find they draw less power so they work on everything
Alex -
Nice job, great pics.
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Hey dewed -
Scope this tiny little gewber out! It just SCREAMS to be in your LCD panel port!
http://www.ecost.com/Detail.aspx?edp=45787724&navid=155441519
mnem
Oh, cr@p... I just dropped it... -
I am thinking of using this idea to upgrade the OE usb port on my cf-28 to usb 2.0. However I was wondering if I could just run the data wires to the OE port after severing the OE data connections and leave the OE power connections stock to get around the power limitations of the AKE shorty card?
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mnem
VWWEEEEEEPVWWEEEPVWEEEP! Unauthorized THINKING in ToughBook Forum! Alert Redmond NOW!!! -
I was thinking of tapping +5v from the WWAN sled connector CN18. Believe it's supposed to have plenty of power for the WWAN module. That would leave the OE usb port intact -- as a reliable backup in case the cheapy Chinese PC card fails (which they are prone to do). Will post back here when I figure out which pin is the best +5v source.
Hidden PC card USB hack
Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by Springfield, Sep 5, 2009.