How do you paint a Toughbook ?

I have a few 51's lids that needs painting and since I have never needed to paint any before untill now I would like to know how you do it ?
1: remove lid or tape it ?
2: primer ?
3: sand it , what grit to use 200, 400 ,600
4: Paint brand and paint code ?

Just want to hear your thoughts on this. I really don't like painting them but at $156.78 to replace it with a new one I thought I would give it a try.

 

Bake it in the sun after. Do you guys ever see the sun?

 

Well,, the best would be to find a painting company to Powder coat them for you.
You would need to sand and do all the prep work to keep the price down and they
should be able to do a top for about $20 to $25 each in a quantity of about 5 at a
time and all the same color

 

The way it's been lately....NO

I was told about $100.00 - $150.00 + paint which is in line with what you said. I have six 51's that I could paint....not all mine but my children and grandkids.
I just picked up some Dupli-Color Perfect Match automotive paint "Quartz Silver" spray paint and might try it on a damaged lid to see how it turns out.

 

I've done a lot of motorcycle parts with cheesy rattle cans that see serious abuse. You should be fine if you get some heat into the part prior to painting (prevents runs) and some heat after to cure it. I'd want advice on how to rough up the surface though. Hard to get an even scuff on a surface as rough as a fully rugged shell. I'm assuming you don't want to sand blast them. Maybe some kind of abrasive drill attachment like a scotch brite wheel.

 

Best spray can match that I have found. It's VERY close. Preparation is the key to a good paint job.

Rust Oleum 251053 TXTRD METLC SILVER
textured metallic silver

 

Blair:
I think that Crown tanks does powder coating. If you know someone who works there I would think that powder coating would do an amazing job

 

I have a post on here somewhere where I painted a printer with that paint to match my 29. Came pretty darn close. I know they also sell that paint with no texture, if you didn't want to to "double up" on the texture.

EDIT
Found the thread here
and the picture

 

The original finish on the Full-rugged TopughBooks is a two-part silver industrial epoxy. I don't know if the semi-rugged models use the same paint, or more common urethane enamel.

You can buy a spray epoxy paint from Rustoleum that is supposed to match the cabinets used on today's very popular stainless steel appliances; I don't know how well it would match with your current paint. These one-part epoxy paints are designed to be used as touch-up on appliances; they are VERY tough, almost as tough as two-part epoxy paints. Part # is 7887830 - Stainless

For a better understanding of the difference between two-part epoxy and one-part epoxy paints commonly found in spray cans, see here:

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/msg/95edd1b7771d6044

I would guess that if one were to paint an entire surface, like the lid and bezel together, it wouldn't matter if it were a few shades off of your existing paint.

mnem
TSSSSSSSST!

 

Now you got me thinking and I just happen to know someone

I remember your post now and yes it's very close. BTW thanks for the... "Found the thread here" it was for the How to use the wrong OEM CD which is a thread I have been looking for

That's right , I will be painting all the silver which is just the lid . All I want to do is make it look as close as I can to the existing paint.

 

If it was me. I would paint them all at once.
I would remove the lids. You'll find it's easier to remove them than tape them. I have painted hundreds of vehicles. Taping is a PITA. Scuff them with probably 220grit.
Read the instructions on the paint cans!!!!!!!!
Prime it with a good primer. If you use Rust Oleum, you have a much smaller chance of it being incompatible. Wait for the primer to dry fully. I hate waiting. Scuff the primer with 400 grit. Wipe it off with a dry paper towel or use a tack cloth if your detailed. Don't use a cloth rag, unless it has never touched and chemicals or waxing liquids. Finally paint it with 2 or 3 medium coats of the final color. Waiting the recommended time between coats. I still hate waiting. Reassemble and enjoy your work.

 

Remember that if you are painting with Epoxy paint as I suggested, to follow the directions on the can re: primer. Many varieties of epoxy paint recommend NOT to use primer, as it interferes with the bonding action. Just light sanding with scotch-brite or 400 grit to break the glaze of the existing paint and give it something to stick to.

mnem
"The 4 horses with epoxy lips? What are you on about child?"

 

Thanks Shawn , I have a damaged 51 lid and will try your "how to do it" and see how it works out.

Thanks mnementh, this Dupli-Color paint I have said only to use primer if bare metal is present.

 

DOGHT!

I meant, here

 

Hello to all.

There are chemical ways(basically it is etching) of preparing metal surface before gluing(with epoxy resin - so it should work for epoxy paint too).
In case of magnesium(and magnesium alloys) it is two stage process.

If You want I can describe it later.

 

Auto paint supply stores carry metal prep for etching alum and various alloys before paint. I personally still prefer to sand prime scuff and paint. less chance of the paint peeling off.

 

It might worth to check if you can get the old paint dry ice or soda blasted.
We do dry ice blasting and epoxy is usually not that hard, dry ice doesnt damage the metal at all, but I would recommend to remove the cover as dry ice is -78C, and Im not sure that toughbook is THAT though.

Alternatively soda is not that cold, but the powder might can get inside the elctronics which is not our goal.

 

I have not heard of dry ice. hmmmm. I used plain old sand paper and elbow grease, which worked fine for me. Just make sure you clean ALL of the elbow grease off before you spray it. Paint will not stick to elbow grease.

 

....I don't know about media blasting it while it's still assembled. I know I don't have the skill to do it, nor would I trust someone else to not screw up my TB. Lids aren't that hard to take off, I would recommend removal for prep and paint,IMHO.

Course, that's just my two cents.

 

Remember safety first if using powered abrasive wheels.
1. Dust mask/respirator.
2. Fire hazard from magnesium dust if you get too deep.

Fire Triangle = fuel + heat + O2 Remove one side as in cooling the heat with water for instance and the fire goes out. Except with magnesium water is not recommended. Special purpose dry chemical extinguishers are recommended. Purple K was one.

TOTAL immersion does work however. Drop the burning object in a barrel of water and you cool it plus remove the O2. The filled barrel should be there before you start the fire.

Problem: water converts to steam at the ratio of 1700 c.f. of steam to 1 c.f. water. In other words don't look at whatever you are dropping in the barrel. Instant sunburn.

Sorry......32 years of "safety first" just fell out of my head.

Jeff........reminds me of the time my chainsaw caught fire....yep tried the garden hose and finally put it out with dirt.