I can has CF-18 screen?

Hi All,

New here and so far the information on the forums has been invaluable!

My CF-18 finally came last Monday only to have the display conk out on me last night. I suspect it's the CCFL or the inverter. Gives me an excuse to crack the sucker open nonetheless.

This got me thinking - Has anyone tried replacing the LCD on this monstrosity with a brighter aftermarket model? I did a quick search but nothing relevant came up.

Cheers,

Napisano
"Strong like Ox. Smart like tractor!"

 

First find out if it has visible image by using a light like flash light or any other at an agle. If there is, it might be Backlight, inverter or the F4 (fuse again) on the Mbo.


ohlip

 

It has visible image.

 

Ok! are you comfortable enough to open up tha lid cover? Its easy, unscew all the srews on the plastic coverering both top and buttom, then the hinges cover. There are for srews on four corner and the last two big srews near the hinges. Then pry it up carefully. Carefully pull out the ccfl cable on the inverter. Now! this one use a necessary caution. Using a multimeter, test the connector terminal of the inverter at the back of the connector itself not on the slot. much more controlable if you don't have an steadily hand ( of course the pc must be "on" on that stage). If there is a voltage, It means your ccfl was dead. but if there is no power or voltage drop, the trouble is on your mbo. F4 as I mentioned above.


ohlip

 

Thanks Ohlip!

Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter handy. I can crack it tomorrow and borrow a meter from work.

 

Give us an update tommorow. If it is on the mbo. I will you another instruction how to remove the mbo.


ohlip

 

I have several cf-18’s and I personally think that the standard screen brightness is very good

Alex

 

WAIT!!!WAIT!!!WAIT!!!WAIT!!!WAIT!!!

Be sure you do NOT put your meter probes anywhere near the OUTPUT terminals of the inverter - the connector with 2 wires (usually a red & a white) going to the LCD (There may be more than one such connector) - there's enough voltage there if its working to blow up your meter. (Ask how I know)

mnem
Why did an angry dwarf just kick me in the knee?

 

You could just stick your tongue on it too... That way you don't risk wrecking your meter ...

 

RONTFFL....

Shades of Dumb & Dumber when he licked the frozen pole....

 

*SNAAAAARRRRF!*

TB & JB - you guys owe me a new keyboard... and at least half a can of Diet Dew.

mnem
That'll teach me to peruse this forum on ANY inferior, NON-TOUGHBOOK PC...

 

That will work , and does work on some voltages
9 volt transistor battery’s are a good example
It is almost like a salty taste with them , and to judge the voltages correctly it takes some practise

The cold cathode inverter output will exceed the abilities of my tongue , but should not exceed the capabilities of my Fluke multimeter
I believe the voltage is less that 1000vac
Someone correct me if I’m wrong though


Alex

 

Ummm... typ 700-800 VAC operating, 1500 VAC start cycle dewed. You never know when it'll kick a start cycle, it does it based on current draw & frequency damping. Multiply those numbers by 1.414 to get P/P voltage, (Perhaps MORE - depends on the waveform/frequency) and you are well outside the safe range for even a very well-protected meter. They WILL light up your baby...

mnem
*Speaks soothingly to his Fluke 87*
No...no... I promise I won't let Alex plug you into the lightning...

 

I might try it

I have a 179 meter marked with a 1000volt true rms rating and some sort of skull and crossbones in this triange next to that rating sticker lol

If it starts to heat up ,I will know for sure that it has output

Alex

 

I have burned through a good bit of meters in my time when i used to troubleshoot building HVAC control systems and I found out recently that the higher end meter come with a little fuse in them somewhere to where if you short that bad boy out you can always replace that fuse. Now I could have been lied to as I have not cracked open my meter to check that out. It would bring too much pain to my heart to see my $350 meter in pieces

 

Alex -

The kind of voltage we're dealing with here doesn't damage by excessive current flow (where heating up or blown fuses would occur), but more like static electricity, only it's HF 35-60KHZ AC so it does kinda go where it wants to, like lightning.

I've toasted a good 1KV rated meter trying exactly this; no smoke, no pop, just a little zap at the probes when I touched them to the outputs of the inverter. After that, no meter - no light, no display, no beeps, just dead and reading about 20 ohms (with my trusty 87) across the battery terminals.

mnem
Of course, if you've ALREADY tried it and gotten away lucky, there's no saying it won't get you the next time... by all means, keep trying.