I got a CF-29 and a 408 GPS now what?

and I stripped a screw getting the CDMA modem out....

damn it...

once I get a new screw and the old one out, is this hard, not possible, easy???

did anyone put a 408 in a 29, and if so, can the link the thread?

also suggestions for getting a stripped screw out of the sled for the CDMA modem/GPS??

 

Haven't done that yet. But I have ordered the Geohelix antenna and will be trying that on the stock GPS. Jim Gray can make one to SMA connector and then a pigtail from SMA>U.FL. Gonna see how that works first. If it doesn't, then I will try the 408 module install.

Also, check with Gravitar on the stripped screw. I think he has tricks for that.

 

Go here for everything you ever wanted to know about screw removal:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=220332

 

would I get this "easy out" at home depot?

I just got back from home depot and their look was "oh wow" and weren't very helpful.

As for the 408, should I try it, or just say "aw **** it" at this point and plunk down for stock GPS kit from heartland?

 

If possible take a high res photo of the remains of the screw that you need to remove. Give us shots from different angles if you can.

 

There is one more tiny silver screw holding the sprint CDMA modem to the sled. the head is stripped pretty bad. I'm starting to get frustrated.

I tried but the pics didn't come out so well.

I just wanna thank the whole crew for keeping their patience with me, the various bits of help I've received so far.

edit: screwhead is flat

 

The screws would be too small for easy out I think. What you can try is putting a thin piece of cloth (like a handkerchief), between the screw head and the driver, and while applying even, yet firm, pressure SLOWLY push down and turn counterclockwise just until it gives. Once it gives, relieve the pressure a little and continue to take it out. The key is to start with FIRM yet EVEN downward pressure to break it loose. The towel trick gives the driver more bite for stripped screws. I haven't tried this on ones soo small, but give it a shot and let us know if it works. Think of that screw as a child-proof cap to aspirin--push down and turn, then continue turning with released pressure. This should work, in theory that is....

 

I am not sure where your stripped screw is, but what has worked for me is to get one of the Craftsman precision needle nose pliers and just keep working until it starts backing out. The magnesium body is softer than the screw, so you can actually work the metal down enough to get a grab. I have backed out a couple that just had a nub exposed [hehe, that was before I sprung for a set of Wiha screwdrivers-no prob. since then]

 

Another thought I had... For stripped phillips heads, I have resorted to switching to a GOOD slotted screwdriver that is sharp and same size as screw. Even in stripped phillips, you usually still have a box shape there and can sometimes break it free with a slotted screw driver. Good luck either way....

 

Posted before I saw your pix.

My advise would be to take a round head dremel tool and grind away the head just enough to pop the board free. You should then be able to get a small set of needle nose hold of the nub. You may not HAVE to put ALL the screws back in. 3 outa 4 ain't bad...

 

lowang,
I can't tell much from your photos, but if I'm guessing correctly, the head of the screw is still intact? If so, that gives you a little more leverage. The trick from here on out is to have the proper size screwdriver of the best quality that you can get. Sometimes a straight hack will work; sometimes a phillips is better. I know, or at least I'm pretty sure, that the screw was originally a phillips. If you've stripped out the head of the screw; often a quality straight hack driver will break it loose and then finish up with a quality phillips.

Good Luck!

 

didn't work

worth a shot though...

 

Do you have a good quality straight hack screwdriver with a thin edge and no wider than the screw head? If you do, try that with firm down pressure. If that gets it started, finish with a good, proper fitting phillips.

 

got it!

solution: take flathead screw driver hammer it into screw, torque it out with pliers.

sweet ****, now I lost two screws(good ones) under the bed in all the banging.

Thanks again for all your ideas, this has to be by far the most patient bunch of fellas ever to post on internet message boards

edit: after careful review, the pinout of the stock sled is great diffrent than the pinout of the 408. there apears to be 40 pins in two rows on the sled board and 5 in one row on the 408.

I am pretty sure with a diagram some soldering can get it done, but thats tommorow, I'm finding thoose screws and calling it a night. If anyone DOES have the wiring diagram, feel free to send it to me.

 

So do you already know where to connect the 408 in the sled?

 

Patience comes with having screwed up more than a few times. Beside, all of these ideas would have come to you eventually as time passed and your aggravation tapered off. We're just the cheerleaders.

 

*CHEERS* Glad you got it! I was going to suggest hammering a flathead like that but was afraid you might have tried a sledge hammer in your frustration Nice job! Now, to the question already asked, do you know where/how you will install the 408?

 

shoulda thought about that before I took it out

too late now, now I got a pet project. I need a wiring pinout of the sled. If someone has one, or could tell me where I could find out, I'd be thrilled!

my eyes are peeled, and its time to hit google. I have been taking pictures, and I will keep the forums updated on any success/failures.

wait, ohlip sent my that CF-29 service manual. I don't know if that has pinouts but I am looking.

 

The service manual doesn't have the pinout to the sled. It's not listed anywhere around here. You'll need to use a multimeter and the schematics for the 29 to back your way into it... Like we did on the 28.

Nobody here (yet) has installed an EM-408 into a CF-29... Just into 28s. So there is no wiring diagram for the custom GPS into the 29. They are not exactly the same but should be similar. There is not the same amount of room in the 29 as in the 28. I doubt you'll get the 408 into the sled along with the other stoff you have in there. The stock GPS kit barely fits and it is at least half the size of the 408

Easy outs (for the future) can be had at Sears. I bought two different kits... One for small screws and one for medium to big screws. They have never let me down.

My suggestion is to ready all the threads on the subject starting with the GPS thread that is stickied at the top of the forum.

On a side not... I plan to use the EM-408 in the CF-29 on the next one I can find for a good price. I just need to find one without the additional CDMA in it. It shouldn't be too hard.

 

how would I get power to the sled to measure what when the sled is dissembled and sitting on my desk. I DO have a multi-meter, so I'll be more than happy to help map it. I wish I was as good with electronics as some of you guys but I'm not quite there, so pardon any stupid questions. I'm a quick learner, and always give %100 though.

First time for everything. I do think its entirely possible to get the 408 into the 29 sled, once the CDMA modem is out (I'm gonna use a PCMCIA modem so I'm not tied to a carrier/can easily upgrade). The bigger problem is finding a place to mount the 408 once installed.

If I gotta get a stock GPS, do the sell you the entire sled?

ok, put the 408 in the sled, and its a fit, you will need new longer screws, and a bit of a dicey operation, and you will need to cut a bit of the 408's base off to make it more squarish.

its a bit of a stretch, and I'm thinking of cutting my losses and just getting a stock...

 

One day when I have a 29, I'll look into the wiring for those, but for now I haven't even see one torn apart in front of me, so I'm at a bit of a loss on that.

Easy outs are AWESOME. I use them at work alot to get broken bolts exhaust manifold bolts out of aluminum cylinder heads (They don't work on cast iron heads though, lots of metallurgy reasons). Heat the head up in the hot tank, spray the surrounding area with PB Blaster, use a centering punch and whack it hard dead nuts in the middle of the bolt, drill about 1/2" down with a 1/8" drill bit, then use the easy out at an angle, and that's how I get 90% of broken bolts out of aluminum. $30 for easy outs have made our shop $2000.

I do have a small set of easy outs for home use, but I lost my smallest one for what I really need it for.


Lowang; Good for you that you are willing to learn! Your first major task to map out the pins, is figure out every ground that it has and eliminate them.

While the sled is mounted in the case, use the Ohm meter (with sound if you have it), and lock one end into a known ground (Probably the case on our toughbooks, it is on the 28), then touch every pin with the other end. If it beeps, make a diagram to label them all.

This is also the safest part... because the battery and power adapter can be out of the toughbook.

Next you'll want to get all your voltages, which is slightly less safe. First do it with the computer off to figure out all the always-on circuits (The CF-28 has several). Write down all the voltages on the same diagram.

Then do the same thing, but with the computer on (And assembled enough so that it doesn't overheat). Figure all the voltages.

That should get you started, and then we're onto the hard part... figuring out all of the rest of the circuits.

If any of your connections have a varied voltage, make notes of that, and note the range. Low range circuits that vary might be a serial circuit! (Which helps to identify severely).

I'd still like a copy of the 29 service manual for some reference points if anybody has it. I'll host a copy on the server for everybody else to grab.

 

Check the pinouts on CN18... If you read the GPS in the CF-28 post you iwll see exactly how we figured it out on the 28. I imagine I could have a GPS up and opertating in a few hours with the prior experience... Plus I have the ribbon cable to make checking pinouts a lot easier!

I just need a CF-29 that I can get for a good price to play around with... I have a few ideas I'd like to try to get the GPS going in there using the EM-408.

 

Thanks to pappy, I got the service manual for the 29's.

http://modly.net/CF-29

 

I am now on the process to figure out the aftermarket gps engine to install on cf-29. It is clearly specified on the CN(18) but the problem again is a connector to eval. board or to something that it can probably works.

My plan for the gps antena is to install the geohelix to where the evdo antena is located( the bump one at the top of lcd).

Any ideas you guys out there?

ohlip

 

Without actually having a 29 in my hands, I couldn't suggest a spot for an antenna without it being complete speculation.

The original location sounds like a promising spot though.

 

I had planned on splitting off the antenna from the EM-408 and soldering a lead from there to the stock location in the side slide or sled. There isn't on in non-CDMA equipped 29s but you could still mod a sweet little caddie for it. The pinouts should be very similar to the 28. Hopefully I'll have some time next week to look into it. I just need a 29 to play with. Right now I have MY toy and one on ebay... I need a third one to play around with as my test bed. I thought about ponying up another $850 from Hi-Tech like I did my last one... But after buying the 2nd one for only $310 I am still shopping! (And probably will be looking for quite some time!)

 

As I checked on the connector CN(18) of 29 you need at least 6-7 inches of flat cable all the way to the location where the sled for evdo. This aplies to those cf-29 without a build in Sled and that is one of mine.

Can anybody here point me out where can I buy a 40c flat cable ribbon with .05mm pitch.



ohlip

 

Ohlip.... Here is the info you need for the stock part...
GPS Main Ribbon Cable - DFUP1325YA - $19.07/each
This is what comes in the GPS kit GPS-292 (Part number-CF-WGP292) Or I would imagine that you could use a regular 40 pin ribbon cable. But it would have to be a minimum of 10" long to make the required bends and to get you to the other side of the laptop where you mount the GPS engine. If you are interested... Let me know and I can place an order next time I call Heartland. The part is on backorder at this time so it could take 2 days or 2 months to get it. It's always best to ask early!

 

Oh! ya I'm gonna use the 40c all the way to the side of the laptop. Umm.... My estimate is short, your correct I did not include the bend and extra allowance for termination.

I will let you know if I gonna change my plan, just to order the original stock gps for cf-29 and Thanks for your offer. Highly appreciated



ohlip

 

For the headup, I managed to pull out the gps pins and usb pins on CN(18) of cf-29 using 16c flat ribbon and soledered a tiny conductors as an extension outside of the lappy, hook up the em 408 base on the shematic with 10K resistor, short to ground the pin 40. Installed the usb connector hook up USB bluetooth. Power up the computer, goes to bios and bam GPS recognize by the bios, switched it to auto and then save. Reboot again, found new hardware but as "Com port" installed the driver with no problem. Look at device manager it has com 4. Open the gps info software, scan, nothing. Set to com 4 and open the gps software still nothing. "Scracthes on head many times" pulling hair, still nothing.

Installed the usb bluetooth software and driver and "bamm" its working then power it off the lappy but the usb still has power. Scratches on the head again.

Q? is somebody has an idea to resolve it even the usb power to shut it off when the lappy is off. Thanks


ohlip

 

You need to poke around and find switched voltage. Somewhere on the schematics you should be able to find it.

 

I am thinking about the GPS right now, like for example, you are the receiver and I am the transmitter. This about the pin on the mbo., if it is Tx of mbo. it must be connected to a Receiver(Rx) of em 408, is it right? coz my connection is tx to tx both mbo. and em 408. What do you think?

Here are the photo of my experiment: FYI




ohlip

 

Heh... looks like my robotics workbench from high school daze...

mnem
Robot - Def: A device which monitors it's surroundings & based on input from it's surroundings, acts to change its surroundings. Ergo; a mousetrap is a (very simple) robot.

 

Anybody here can give me a right direction on installing aftermarket
gps on CF-29. Base on the shematic on the service manual CN(18): pin 40
is GPS_IN, pin39 is Tx, pin38 is Rx, pin37 is ground and pin30,31,32
are VA5.I even used a drop down regulator on VA5 to meet the 3.3 volts
reguirement for gps engine supply. I followed that pin out using EM 408
engine but no luck.Pin 40 is to short to ground to recognize GPS on the
bios. I even have a NEW COM port. But when I scan using the GPS viewer.
Nothing, anybody here can give right advice?


BTW, Thanks, Mnem.....


ohlip

 

Ohlip -

You're very welcome.

From what the more GPS experienced peoples here have said, the GPS doesn't really need to be recognised in BIOS, or as a device in Windows; as it simply sends a constant stream of NMEA formatted ASCII text out to a com port, which your mapping software then imports to locate you.

Can you poll the new com port & see streaming data coming from it?

mnem
*Never change horses in the middle of a streaming data*

 

When I installed the hardware then reboot it found a new hardware, a comport i just let them installed the driver and on the device manger it has a new com port(4) I open the gps software to see if it wiil come with a data stream and set to com port 4, 4800 baudrate but nothing.

Q? Is it posible the em408 was fried from the first time I installed it with 5vc input voltage since I've got no dropdown regulator that time?

I have no way to test the engine right now or I have to purchase a new one?

ohlip

 

Did you try reversing your RX and TX? TX from the engine needs to go to RX of the Mobo.

 

Done that too, but still the same result.

 

if you have an oscilloscope you can power up the EM-408 and check the TX output you should see a TTL level square wave. If it is flat line than it is probably dead.

 

T2G beat me to it; breaking out the 2465 is how I'd troubleshoot it...

mnem
*Don't be such a square wave, dewd...*