Modify slot load DVD drive for eject button

I have a slot load uj 845 slot load drive. It does not have an eject button, because they came from macs i assume. Is there any way i can get an eject button to work on it?

 

Yes, been there done that. It's installed in my CF 29 as we speak.
I got a switch that was the right size from old CD Rom. Soldered it on the board where it is supposed to be. You only really need 2 of the 4 connections to be soldered. I was going to add the led also, but I figured it really wasn't worth the effort.

 

I am so lazy I use the windows utility most of the time to eject media

 

Right click in the context menu works, but I wanted to be able to eject if I was booting in DOS.

 

What's dos ? lol

Sorry I had to say that

Seriously ,have you considered a 1 meter wrecking bar
Someone just mentioned it in another thread ,and a light bulb lit up

 

so it has the option for the button, we just have to install it ourselves?

i will probably just check the button from the cd rom that was in the caddy before i put in the slot load dvd and test. but ya its just annoying sometimes and also unnatural to not use a button.

 

did panasonic make an oem slot load drive with button?

 

If you look at this pic mine had the pcb but no switch. I may have been working on a 875 from a mac, I don't remember which for sure, but they are the same family. If you look at the pcb, you can see the 4 contacts at the corners of a square, where the switch goes.

ujda 845

Yes they did make oem with button, but they sell for more due to higher demand. Switch was free and took less than 15 min to install.

 

I will take a look at the old cd rom and try to connect it. Since i got my hot air station ill figure out which will be easier hot air or soldering iron.

Oh yea OEM stuff is always more

I just got my 30 so now i need to find a sata slot load drive

 

What's a meter?

 

a little longer than 3 feet

 

No you don't
The optical interface is IDE on the cf-30's

Around 40" ,I am old and don't think in the metric system either
For marine navigation,thinking in meters doesn't make any sense
Tide hight in meters instead of ft , speed etc ,even things that we know as 2x4 for example don't sound right when in the metric system

 

Calling it a 2x4 doesn't make a lot of sense either. 1 5/8 x 3 3/8.

A meter is what you use to measure electricity or what you ask your spouse.
What's a meter honey, you look upset?

 

The reason that it's called a 2x4 and is actually smaller is that in rough form its 2" x 4"
It's not too common these days except on some decking to find 2x4 rough
When it's planed to smooth it and ease the edges there are some waste so you are right on the smaller size

Lets try another example of the dimensions not sounding right
4 x 8 sheet of plywood , or drywall

 

The speed limits in British Columbia look good, "MAX SPEED 100", whee!
CAP

 

I actually bought a Canadian speedometer for my Ranger pickup. It goes to 200. It looks impressive for a 4cyl truck. I reset the odometer to read the correct kilometers. It shows 250,000 on it. That's the downside I suppose. I put a Cobra jet hood scoop and a stripe on it, along with a short wing on the lid. The Hurst shifter sets it all off. People who don't know me or the truck are impressed. They think it's some sort of speed demon. I go around town doing 60(kph). I travel to work at 85 to 100 everyday. It's a bit lame I suppose, but it makes me smile.

 

I did the same thing on my old 1979 Mustang Indy Pace Car 2.3L Turbo; it just didn't seem right to have an 86 MPH speedo on a car intended to pace the Indianapolis 500. To qualify as a pace car it had to be able to run at least 120 MPH.

Ford "chickened out" on the 2.3L Turbo for actual pace care usage: they weren't convinced of the engine's reliability at that sustained speed necessary to pace the starting laps.

Instead, at the "Eleventh Hour" they went with a built-up 5.0L V-8.

So much for "Indy Trivia."

Anyway; the one thing I did differently on my Canadian speedo installation was to install an in-line speed reduction adapter with a .62 reduction ratio gear set installed. This gave me a speed readout in MPH, using the speedo's outside "KPH" scale as "MPH" (the inner "MPH" scale of the Canuck speedo no longer mattered).

 

Why do something the "hard way" when the "easy way" is, well ..., "EASIER"?

 

Because the Apple ones cost $20.00 or less.

 

And the cost in time and money to modify the "cheap" drive for a manual eject button is .... ???

 

Switch is free and time to desolder and resolder is less than 10 minutes. Shorter if your solder iron is already hot.

 

I think that was a dual spark plug head for a 4 banger to have 8 spark plugs
was unusual but sounded cool. I know some of the round trackers used this cylinder head and revved the daylights out of them and they held up well. SVO at one of its great engineering moments to get as much HP from a 4 that an 8 would do..........Driller

 

Speaking of speedo's. Had a 64 Chevy Fleetside SWB. 6 cyl. three on the tree. Converted it to a four speed (that cost more than I was quoted). Anyhoo.....the speed was off by 7 or 8 MPH (liters per second????) at 55 or 48 or?
Went to a speedo shop in Redding, CA. The guy had a radio controlled boat in a tank in his shop. Oops..I digress.
He also had a cabinet of the cutest little gears and such. He built a transfer case the size of a silver dollar while I waited. Hooked it up in-line on the speedo cable and "bob's your uncle" it was right on.
Forgive the hi-jack I seemed to have started originally.
Oh, 64 Chev. story. Pulling a stock trailer up a hill and the truck wouldn't quite make it. So I unloaded the horse, tied him to the back and cruised on up....reloaded and away we go.

Jeff....digress:lose clarity or turn aside especially from the main subject of attention or course of argument in writing, thinking, or speaking. Did we get the slot load button figgered out? (sic)

 

so we went from eject buttons to cars

 

Why not tie the horse to the front and add a horsepower to the truck? If the horse was chrome it would count for 2 horsepower.

Now how about we combine it and add an eject button for the car passenger seat!

 

That started in the Ranger in 1988: the Mustang didn't get the dual-plug system until 1991.

The 2.3L turbo was a rather new and untried concept for Ford in 1979. FoMoCo executives were afraid of the bad image that would follow if a "tweaked" 2.3L Turbo "grenaded" itself during the pace lap; hence the usage of the tried and true 5.0L V-8 engine (I cannot remember for sure, but I think the engine was prepared by Jack Roush for the actual pace/safety cars).

The pace engines had Boss 302 steel cranks and rods, special forged pistons, solid lifter cam, 351W heads and a four-barrel Holley carb on an aluminum "Cobra" hi-rise intake manifold with the old 14" chrome Hi-Po air cleaner. Not exactly "assembly line" 5.0L.

Remember: Special Vehicle Operations (SVO) and their fuel-injected turbo 2.3L was still four years down the road (the `79 turbo was still a "suck through" carbureted engine).

 

did you guys use soldering iron or hot air, the button that i took off the cd rom and the 845 slot load i have it seems as though i would have to use hot air. since the 4 points are on the bottom side of the button. the solder pads i took the button off of had bigger pads. so it was easy to remove it with an iron, but the button obviously is not meant for THIS drive.

the only thing im afraid of if i use hot air is melting the ribbon

 

I used soldering iron. I have an Antex 12w pencil iron I use for the tiny stuff.

 

found these from benhecks site. i should tell him to do a toughbook mod.

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