OMG HELP screw heads broke off what do i do

ok ......ok... let me calm down i waws about to start another install of some internals and whaen i was removing the screw everthing was going fine and then 2 of the screws heads broke off how can i remove these to be able to replace them and how do i get a striped screw out what is the best screw driver to use , god if any one can help thank you .

 

You could drill it out... Thats what I would do... Or you could get yourself and easy-out which costs about $30 at a hardware store...

 

This is what I use.

 

I think due to the size of the screw go with the easy out, drilling in a hold that small is pretty challenging, I remember I stripped a few out before I invested in a good set of screw drivers and I had our fleet mechanic easy out them, worked pretty well

 

they make easy outs that small and if i drill how will i get whats left out of the computer like in the case were the heads broke off

 

thanks guys sorry posted before redaing all

 

Get a set of Wiha brand screwdrivers. Precision made in Germany they don't strip out. Find them on eBay.

 

I use these too... DAMN GOOD! I got mine from Frys electronics a long time ago... spent about $40 on 8 screw drivers...

 

What? I paid 50 Euro for 4 of this really good screw drivers....in Germany.... :-(

An other option is to welding a piece of metal onto the crap or to use ultrasonic

 

If you broke a 2-4mm screw off you will not be finding an easy out that small. There is a company in Rhode Island called Moodys which makes very tricky tiny screw "extractors". A set of 4 will run $25-30 but I hear good things about them. You don't have to drill to use them. Drilling a hardened screw out of a soft magnesium case is going to be a thankless job. I am a true believer in WiHa screw drivers, but even with the best of tools you need to be very careful with the small screws in Toughbooks. they use a lot of thread locker in these things. If you are having a lot of trouble with little screws you can apply heat by using a small cheap screw driver (not your good ones!), heat it up with a torch and hold it on the screw for a bit. Then go after the screw with the good one. Loctite softens with heat.
CAP

 

Wow, I am getting ready to take my backplate off and now you guys have me paranoid!

Those little screws can sense that!

 

Patience, and WiHa tools. If not those tools, just don't use anything real cheap. Remember, you get wht you pay for.

Follow Cap's suggestion in regards to using heat. Apply pressure in a downward fashion, and turn slow.

 

Remember, if the head is sheared off you might get a shot at using a small pair of Vise-Grips when you remove the rest of the screws and the part you are removing is off.
CAP

 

I have backed out every type of screw on a Toughbook with a Sears "Easy Out" type of deal... You may have to use your head... If you can drill the head out and leave enough of the rest sticking out by removing the rest and the cover? (I didn't see the exact screw you were talking about.)

But I have "Easy Outed" 2mm screws before.... VERY carefully!

 

Rick, A little semantics here. "Damaged screw removers" require that the head be present albeit damaged. The original "easy out" is for those screws/bolts which have the head completely broken off, and require you to drill a hole in the shank and insert a reverse threaded tapered tool which jams in the hole and backs out the screw. I took the OP to mean he had sheared off the screw heads. Props to anyone who can use an "easy out" on a 2mm screw. I have never had better than mixed success with easy outs on any thing smaller than 1/4", if you do get a good hole the easy out usually breaks.
CAP

 

If the damage screw is drilled out, is it feasable to just rethread for larger screws?

 

I presume if one is investing in Wiha screwdrivers one should go with the ESD not standard? Also any good places to buy Wiha screwdrivers?

 

I have bought them from this seller
http://shop.ebay.com/don19470/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

Alex

 

I'll watch his store.

Thanks

 

Guys -

This is a subject we've gone over in great length in this thread:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=220332

I've STILL got both of the Husky models I recommended in my "every day" box; they hold up VERY WELL. They're $8 each at Home Depot now... but still a great product, ESPECIALLY for the price.

I can recommend AGAINST the similar KOBALT model shown below; it is a BEAUTIFUL tool, but the bits are TOO HARD. They're very brittle; and break off inside the head of the screw with little provocation, leaving you to figure out how to remove tiny shards of bit that are harder than almost any drill bit. I've had mine replaced 6 times for this issue in as many months. In case you didn't know, Kobalt is Lowe's "House brand"; I've had many other Kobalt tools which were perfectly serviceable, just NOT THIS screwdriver.

On the OTHER hand, that hardness makes them a GREAT tool for scraping PC boards...

As for fixing screws with the heads snapped off... there are a couple options.

If the screw shaft protrudes from the material of the base part once you remove the cover, you may be able to remove it with a small pair of pliers or Vise-Grips. These screws are usually liberally coated with Lock-Tite, so I would recommend application of heat as assistance. If there's room to do so without damaging plastic or other non-metal bits, you can get a good blob of solder on the tip of a soldering iron and hold it to the exposed shaft of the screw until you can either hear the Lock-tite start to sizzle, or touching the base metal with a moistened something(I lick my finger) sizzles. I would recommend against using any open flame; as we have some reports of metal shavings from these magnesium cases igniting from heavy grinding sparks.

If the shaft of the screw is broken off flush with the base metal, other possibilities include drilling and tapping the hole, or simply ignoring the issue. If the screw in question is only one of several on a large part, you can very often get by not worrying about it. Of course if it is one of two holding a cover hinge on, then you're pretty much boned. Somewhere in between these two scenarios lies your machine; along with the balance of how you intend to USE the machine.

If you intend to take it out in the weather and rain, then proper sealing is of utmost importance and no single screw can be ignored. If you're using your ToughBook as a CarPuter and it will spend it's life docked in the trunk, then who cares about a missing screw or two as long as they don't prevent the case from being closed tightly against the cooling pads inside?

Again - your scenario is probably somewhere in between and you'll need to make a considered decision using YOUR best judgement.

mnem
Hardness, as with many things, is most valuable in certain degrees...

 

To go along with what the Dragon said, IF it is a screw that cannot be removed, and is essentially un-essential, then DO seal the screw hole with silicone or other sealant to keep the water out. Just my 2 cents...

btw: Its been a while Dragon... been hibernating with the son?

 

wow so muchn talk over my little question well my final solution was get the back plate removed and use a gerber to grab the stud and twist out the rest of the way the ones i couldnt get sealed with sillicon forever thanks for so much help and information you guys are the greatest on the net

 

sgt - Glad we could help, dewed!

Doobi - Not hibernating... just doing Hard Time in Babylon.

Hard at work, not a lot of discretionary time.

mnem
I owe, I owe, so off to work I go...

 

CAP... Oh I know what he meant... And I stand by it... You should see the tiny little extractors that I have... I used them several times to remove the screws off the bottom CF-28 port cover. It aint east... But it can be done. I think the larger set came from Craftsman but I'm not sure who made the little ones I have.

 

Rick, I'm with you! I just didn't want sgttoughbook asking for easy outs if he was looking for an extractor, they're not the same thing. I can't think of many screws on a toughbook which are big enough for the drill and back out approach.
CAP

 

Rick, can we have a picture of that? Curious to see what it looks like.
Ron in SG

 

They are easy outs and they are from Craftsman... But I have used them on most screws on the CF-28/29... I threw in some of the smallest screws to show you the difference in size of the smallest easy out. I think the whole set cost around $40... But you can buy them singly I think or a smaller set. I bought these on a lark and have only used them on Toughbooks.

You could always drill out and retap... Can you post of photo of what you are up against?


EDIT: I think THIS is what CAP is talking about though... They look cool... I might pick up a set.

 

Thanks, Rick. I don't have any broken screws to back out at the moment but I used to have a lousy time with tiny titanium set-screws between 1.2~1.5mm dia. and those 2mm semi-precious alloy screws get their internal hex stripped/rounded by rough hands.

Yeah, those were real tiny buggers but space limitations in the oral environment doesn't permit anything larger. To back out any broken/seized screws, I customize a ball-ended tungsten carbide bur with 2.0mm shank that has counter-clockwise cutting edges and turn gently but with firm pressure.

In the worst case scenario, the entire screw is drilled out with water irrigation and threads re-tapped to a larger bore with matching set-screws. I no longer incorporate set-screws into oral implant prosthesis. It's more trouble than it's worth and my eyes aren't what they used to be.

BTW, I see 4 bits (on the right) that has tapered threads. Are these by any chance counter-clockwise as well?

Ron in SG

 

Another alternative, if dealing with screws that just have stripped heads:

Using a drift punch (the kind with a flat face) just large enough to cover the entire surface of the head of the screw, whack the head of the screw SHARPLY with a SMALL hammer a few times. This will swage the metal so there is material again in the gullet of the screw.

Now you can use the appropriate type of hex shank power screwdriver bit to "reform" the gullet of the screw; hold the bit with needle-nose pliers or stats so it aligns with the remains of the old gullet, then whack the flat end of the bit sharply with your small hammer.

Now you can get a grip on it with a regular screwdriver again!

This technique relies A LOT on practice; you can get that practice by abusing some screws in a vise. Grip the shank of the screw(Insert goofy Beavis & Butthead snicker here) in the vise so the top faces of the jaws support the head of the screw and go to town; you'll have the hang of it right quick. Another thing you need to know is the difference between the types and sizes of screw head you are dealing with; trying to re-form a #2 Philips-head screw with a #1 Philips bit will not likely be successful.

Due to the tapered shape of the gullet, this technique works BEST with Philips head screws; but I have successfully used it on Fillister, Allen and Torx head screws. The limiting factor is the hardness of the head of the screw; of course, the easier the screw is to strip out, the softer it is.

mnem<~~~ Screwed-up ~~~<<<

 

See, you learn something new every day (if you're lucky). Something else I'll have to get.
CAP

 

Ron,

Yes... They are all reversed so that the screws back out once drilled out... Or at least you drill a little hole in the center and then use the coiled back-out end.

Mnem has another great idea. I'll have to try that.... On larger screws I have grinded the top off flat and reslotted... But I don't think the space is available here.

I keep thinking... If the combined talent here could just run the whole planet... And we could... Everything would make sense and be in order....

And of course... Everyone would be issued a Toughbook!

 

Rick,
Re-slotting is possible even if the screw head has broken off, only more challenging if the screw is sheared midway & recessed (into the chassis).

You can do wonders with a dremel, a thin 0.5mm carborundum or sintered diamond disc.

Ron in SG

 

For stripped/rounded out heads, I have had great success using a cheap extra torx bit. beat it in with a sledge hammer, and then attatch the handle to the bit,and back it out..... works about 90% of the time. fwiw

 

tango
any information on the screw driver you posted? I may be interested in getting one

thanks

 

Sledge hammer, on a laptop? Sounds a little extreme, even on a Toughbook! I pointed someone here who was having problems removing some phillips screws with a flat bladed screw driver. The point was, he needs some Wiha or similar quality screw drivers.
CAP

 

This is the screwdriver set I use, and for tightness "feel" is the answer.

And as for removing the small broken screws, I would try and drill out the screws with left handed twist drills

 

Yeah, I was waiting for Toughbook to jump on me for it
I like to use jbweld to fix the resulting cracks!

 

Someone just had to post a pic of a torque screwdriver, didn't they! I can be the king of over tightening things. So of course I just bought a used torque screwdriver. Next bid I will get real Wiha bits.

 

The beauty of the Wihas that I have is the revolving piece on the end of the handle. Fit the screwdriver to the slot bear down hard and I have not stripped one yet.
I assume some of the real bad ones are corroded from the elements in addition to the lock-tite.
I drilled out the firing pin hole in a case hardened breech block early this year and had great success with re-manufactured carbide bits. Broke one off in the hole and then since it was nearly through I tapped on it an lo and behold the bit just shattered in nice little pieces. Took three to do the job. (I bought ten) Drill Bit City I think. Yep just checked. Fast shipping and all kinds of small bits.
If you can flatten the exposed end (dremel) and get some kind of center punch mark you should be fairly successful. Like M said practice first.
You should have a drill press with a level table and variable speed would be good too.
Those interchangeable bit screwdrivers scare me. I've seen a lot of the bits shatter in the first screw or in saddle work using bronze screws they rip the slot out. Or both.

 

Here is the 2 best sets of screwdrivers on fleabay..both are great sets at $32.00 and $34.00 for a 8 pc set or about $17.00 for a 4 pc set
Wiha 8pc Screwdriver Set 26199 - eBay (item 360286564574 end time Oct-30-10 17:47:33 PDT)

Moody Screwdriver Set, ESD Slot/Phillip 8 Pc/57-0635. - eBay (item 390196293642 end time Nov-10-10 19:22:36 PST)

 

I have an large assortment of screwdrivers , mainly Moody and Wiha

I prefer the Moody as the handle is larger than the Wiha

The most common used tip is the phillips 000,00,0,and 1
If you get these you are well covered for most screws you will find on your Toughbook

Other type bits that I use on occasion are flat head or JIS type and Hex type for custom replacement screws

I gave up with the interchangeable type as I often find that you need an deeper reach ,especialy on the Toughbook bases


Alex

 

Do you find this to be true " JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) drivers will always fit Phillips fasteners"? I was going to get one of these sets but just was not sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Moody-4-Pc-Exte...054?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5adcc8e15e

What's the difference between Phillips and JIS?
These cross point drivers appear very similar to one another. Phillips is the type that most people are familiar with. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) drivers will always fit Phillips fasteners, but because of slight design differences, Phillips drivers may not fit JIS fasteners

 

If you try a JIS on a phillips you have a chance on stripping the screw head
They have more of a point to them , and will sit higher
I tried to take a pic to compare but the macro is not clear enough on my camera , but your diagram is correct


Alex

 

Glad I took your advice and got the Moody 8 pc set with a nice pouch
Moody 8Pc Precision ESD Screwdriver Set Made in USA New - eBay (item 170548506922 end time Nov-02-10 15:52:49 PDT)

 

You will like that set Blair

The other link you posted I think was the seller I bought from though
I like it when you buy a $27 item and you only pay a sensible $8 for first class postal shipping


Alex

 

Yeah... Sledgehammer on the screw... Well.. If any laptop could take it... The Toughbook could.

I still prefer to do things the right way though...

 

No, seriously, I have, on several occasions (in a pinch), used a worn out or extra torx bit on stripped out allen or phillips screw heads. Just a little bigger than will fit comfortably. Couple firm taps (no sledge; the butt of a metal body screw driver works well) will seat the bit in the stripped head, carefully slide on the handle, and break the screw free.
I've also reslotted quite a few fasteners. A small magnet works well to contain the shavings (as long as the magnet won't screw up any circuitry nearby). There is a cheap grinder at harbor freight that comes with quite an assortment of bits. 15 or 20 of them are small,smaller,and even smaller diamond/carbide grinder style. They don't last for too long, but you get the whole dern kit for $10.