So I had a stain on the palm rest, seemed like dirt to me. So I used goof off to try to remove the stain and I accidently removed the coating over the magnesium and now there is white all over the palm rest. Is this oxidation of the Magnesium or what? Thanks for the help ^.^
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What model - the 28 and 29 have plastic palm rest? confused am I
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There is a slight rubberized coating to the palmrests... I usually take straight rubbing alcohol to take it all off... Just be careful when scrubbing off near the keyboard as you will tear off keys no matter how careful you are... Ask me how I know...
I only ever leave it on CF-28s if the palmrest area is totally perfect... Which it a rarity. -
I had this happen too on a 28 I was cleaning, Toughbook you make it sound so easy lol. I used Goof Off and it contains a chemical, Xylene off but its too harsh for the finish and it did exactly what you said. I spent hours I tried everything from rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, paint thinner, acetone, mineral spirits and the only thing that would continue to take it off was more pure Xylene. and you have to rub it right off becuase it "flash freezes" back on as a finish within seconds. Its a major pain and I learned my lesson. I'm not sure what the trick is to what Toughbook suggested I couldn't get the rubbing alcohol to work. maybe he can elaborate, if you use more Xylene be very careful its toxic, slightly corrosive to your skin and it causes wicked explosive fumes which are not good for you either. Also I "learned" its not good to mix any of the aboved chemicals lol
MSDS For Goof Off:
http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/safety/MSDS/GOOFOFF.htm -
Q-tips and some rubbing alcohol and paper towel
You can press fairly hard and once it starts coming off it gets easier
I finish with some dishsoap and water
Alex -
Goof Off will work... But it takes time. I have never had a problem taking off the rubbery surface with straight 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. They make another kind that is a weaker, lower percentage solution. That will not work! It has to be 91%! I usually do this when I have the keyboard out as part of the general clean-up that do on all Toughbooks. They all come apart so I clean it when I know I won't tear off a key! I use a rough Scott Towel paper towel though a regular paper towel will work. 91% Alcohol will also take off the rubbery surface on the bottom.
Yes... It does take some elbow grease... But it is the only thing I found to leave the finish nice and shiny. Yes... Xylene will work... But I had my fill of Xylene when I was 20... It will also melt or craze some/most plastics beyond fixing. Test a spot... If it works... More power to you... I'll stick with 91% alcohol... -
TB -
Take this from someone who's been cleaning electronics for 20 years - NOTHING in the world is better than Denatured Alcohol from the hardware store - 100% pure, and it strips those CF-28 palmrests down to bare & shiny crystal clear plastic in NO TIME. Actually, I always assumed that stuff was just grime from human contact like you always get on your gel wristpads-yucky putz. Just be careful you don't get it on the thin rubberized coatings (like those plates on the bottom); it will make them flake off. At $10 a gallon it SEEMS expensive; but a gallon goes a lot farther with this stuff cuz you get a lot more work done fopr every wetting. And another thing - For LCD monitors, one of the best ways of getting rid of food crusties and pen marks is 50% or 70% isopropyl on a microfiber cloth or Viva paper towel. The combination seems to work on most all stains, as it dissolves both water-soluble stuff and oil-soluble stuff. After that a wash & clean with Windex on a Viva towel and you can make some of the most hideous looking screens clean & clear. The only problem I've had is that with patience you CAN make scuffs and "heel mark" type injuries go away altogether... but then once yer all done the underlying "pressure spots" reveal themselves & you get pissed for all the time you spent. I haven't got a lot of experience with the TB LCDs; they're coated with that iridescent anti-glare coating and I don't know what will or will not take that off.
mnem
Tito's Handmade Vodka - the Universal Solvent. -
So I guess from what you all are saying is that the Goof Off just created a layer of crap that I need to remove and after that I will be fine....
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No... You actually made a small clean spot.. Now you have to make the REST of the palmrest like that or it will look blotchy...
Mnem... I'll have to pick up the denatured stuff...
<Wonders how THAT would go with Jack>
j/k -
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For the palm rest and external casing, I use petrol (gasoline?) and paper towels, then wipe off with water and more paper towels. Works well for me, so long as I keep it away from rubber parts. I suspect the petrol will also take off the anti-glare coating on the LCD... just be careful with what you're doing.
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You know... I've tried everything to get the old coatings off of the CF-28... Nothing has worked 100%... Maybe I need to try the gas... With a match!
<Mmmmm...Toughbook Flambé> -
I have four regular cleaning solvents for electronic & computer jobs:
Clear kitchen surface cleaner (dettox or similar) - removes general crud and just about any form of oil or grease surface marks. Works well on computer casings & screens, also keyboards by lightly damping a cloth / cotton buds.
IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol, sold as electrical cleaner. Harmless to virtually all plastics. penetrates extremely well, fast drying.
Cigarette lighter fluid (petrol/gasoline without additives). Removes most hard crud and specifically 'sticky label' residue. Affects some plastics.
Acetone (nail varnish remover). Dissolves just about anything else that could need cleaning off, including many plastics and epoxies if if you don't remove it quick enough..
Obviously, use with appropriate caution for material contact and flammability...
Robert. -
Rick, if you're gonna try gas, post an update or our Connor here will think I'm some kinda oxymoron! LOL!!
Cheers,
Ron in SG -
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Ya, just when Mickey D's runs out of nuggets! Man, some people really hurt my head....
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Well I tired the Denatured alcohol to no avail. The white marks/haze still remain but it is slightly smoother now. I only have 70% alcohol laying around, I guess I will pick up some 90% later this week or try some gasoline! Heheh
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DeoxIT-D5 from Caig laboratories of all things worked the best for me
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Two more to try ,Goo Gone and WD40
Alex -
don't forget brake cleaner - I use it when I clean the cases before sanding and painting the magnesium case - just don't direct spray - spray it into the rage then wipe (and for conner please use in a well ventilated area
I Would also maybe consider putting contact paper over the palm rest. I got some cool looking 3D carbon fiber sticker that looks really sweet if you have the patients to make a good pattern to cut it from. Just my 2cents.
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The palmrests are made of polycarbonate; I fear you've already ruined them by attacking them with Xylene.(that and Toluene are what made old Testors Glue work so well) I think you've not cleaned the surface of the plastic, but rather dissolved the top layer and embedded the dirt in it.
Talk to Toughbook - he's making an order with Heartland soon, and I believe the palmrests are still available.
mnem
Xylene...Toluene...Benzene... Kiddley beans... -
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I believe TB sed they weren't terrible expensive; if you can get it in on his order, you can save on the o'rageous shipping. That's why he offrs when he does.
mnem
It never hurts to help... "WHUMMMMMP!" -
Sorry... Order has already been sent...
Goo Gone (or whatever he used) will not eat the plastic like the rocket fuel stuff everyone is recommending. Believe me... I have cleaned many, many, many of these things over the past 3 years... (I'd say hundreds but it it probably less than that.) Goo Gone is what I use for removing the sticker residue as it will not take off the rubber top layer unless you scrub VERY hard in one spot. It will NOT eat the plastic!
Again... 91% Isopropyl alcohol will work if a little effort is put into it. The alcohol will NOT eat the plastic... Only the gummy layering on top.
Now.. You CAN use xylene, toulene, benzene, gasoline or any other "ene" or "ine" you want.... It may remove the gummy layer... And then it may remove the whole palmrest.
One day... He will end up buying the 91% alcohol and trying it and see... -
I dunno... not a strong believer in the 9% solution...
mnem
And in other news... Taco Bell has announced it is accepting funding from the Obama Alternative Energy Plan; they intend to augment their locations as refilling depots for compressed natural gas... -
Goo Gone worked for me.
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OperationDinnerOut Notebook Consultant
My own perspective on cleaners for computer use...
First of all, I love Goo Gone - it seems to do a great job. Just keep in mind that there are (at least) two types:
1. "Gooey" and viscous, more like a gel, and often colored - this stuff lists "petroleum distillates" as its chemical. It's powerful, yet fairly safe if you clean it up quickly.
2. Goo Gone Xtreme - Clear, thin liquid. This is based on acetone (common in nail polish remover) and methanol (an alcohol-based fuel, related to ethanol and isopropanol, and used in RC airplanes). It's VERY powerful, has a strong odor like spray paint, and will create a burning sensation shortly after skin contact - be careful, as it's quite toxic. It completely destroys sticky labels with minimal help.
"Goof Off" is another brand of label remover that seems to be very similar or identical to Goo Gone Xtreme. They both come in metal containers.
For the mechanical side of the cleaning (usually for labels), I use a sharp plastic tool... usually a "cell lifter", or a spudger/scribe. The former are these weird implements I found in quantity at work. The latter is specifically a laptop tool - you may have heard it called a "non-marring scribe", or potentially a "black stick", if you read Apple laptop service manuals.
The fact that these devices are plastic is important - this will avoid permanent scratches. I also back it all up with shop towels, or paper towels if there are no shop towels around. Shop towels are tougher, and don't disintegrate as easily.
I've only ever used isopropyl alcohol for removing permanent marker and thermal paste, as it does a really good job with both. I'll give it a try for labels some time. At work, we have access to lab-grade 95%/190 proof isopropyl, which is pretty powerful.
Windex or related glass cleaners (ammonia-based? some seem to be ammonia-free) are good for LCD screens and small jobs. I seem to recall someone in another thread stating that ammonia-based cleaners can turn your screen yellow after multiple uses - can anyone corroborate this? -
I can confirm that ammonia based cleaning products like Windex do cause LCD screens and other soft-covered screens to yellow over time. Although all LCDs yellow due to light exposure over many years, the ammonia speeds up this process greatly.
Oxidation....
Discussion in 'Panasonic' started by steelraptor, Mar 8, 2009.