Toshiba Bluetooth module, hlep needed

I asked in the toshiba section of NBR; they just don't seem to be as into modding as we are here..... so, I ask you all, technically inclined addicts.....

I had a though: the toshiba bluetooth stack is the best,right?
You may use the toshiba BT stack for your toshiba hardware, or as a trial (or for purchase $29.99).

SO, what if I installed a toshiba bt module for cheap???? the usb dongles are $30, but the built in boards are only$3-$5 on fleabay.
SO I grabbed one for $3.49. But only after I found the pinout for it (attached) (my thoughts are in red) from the repair/tech manual. The pinout is on pg 217.

ANyway, it was a passing thought, but for less than $5 I had to try.
I found the 4 usb pins, but am not sure if I need the rest or not.

TTYS, TIA!

 

Oh Teo where are you

 

At the moment I would think ur right and additionally BTMDL is possibly an switch to turn the module on and off with a 3V signal.

 

Thank you very much!
I just received the unit today, and got to looking closer. I feel confident in putting a usb connector on it to give it a shot. The board is only 1-2mm wider than a usb plug, btw.
But I also wanted to put an antenna lead on it, to run an antenna to the CF29 OEM BT antenna location.
I'm familiar with the process, but need to locate where to solder to. I'm not sure where the antenna is this tiny board. I'm assuming it's D47, but have not seen an antenna element like that before.
The two solder points on the lower left side of D47 are the only places with PCB traces running to them. Holding it up to the light, I can't see any other traces going to or from D47.

 

The antenna is probably just a trace on the PCB. I doubt that it is D47. What does the flip side of the PCB look like?
From my own experience, I suggest you connect it up to an external port first, to test it. I went rounds with my USB TV card that I mounted internally. Turns out it needed USB 2. USB 1 port would not work. All of the internal extra ports are USB 1. The only one that is USB 2 is on the rear docking connection.
I tapped off the external side port by soldering on the motherboard. I then taped the port cover closed so I don't attempt to plug something in externally and overload the port.

 

Oh, yeah. I'm totally gonna start with a usb plug on the lead that it has in the pic, and trying it in the side usb port.
BT 1.0 should work, it's an older BT dongle. We'll see.
I plan on using a 12pin ffc and throwing it onto cn52...hopefully.

the backside of the pcb is pretty blank. a few empty solder pads and a green screen print the same size as the ground shield on the front. No traces though (pic later, if I can). that's why I assumed D47 was some sort of ceramic antenna or something. There is no obvious "antenna" trace on the board.

!!!!!!!EDIT!!!!!!!
Yes, it is an antenna......Sometimes, I'm good.
Page 4

 

Now that I look at the pin assignments, I see that it's not labeled.

Looking at the pin assignments on the above table, it looks like 2 rows of 5; just like the connector on the other end of the cable.
So where is pin 1? It's a small plug, 2rows of 5 pins, keyed with a single key on one side, and two keys on the other side (this would prevent the connector from being inserted wrong). the single key is marked yellow.
Pic in the morning.

 

Look for wires 2 and 10. They should be the same color. They are both DGND

 

No good. 10 wires, all different colors. and no discernible pattern that I can see.
what kind of connector is this? and are one of the plugs typically pin 1 on this type of connector?

 

Look on the pcb for any mark next to one end of that connector.
Also check the traces on the pcb to see if pins 2 and 10 are linked together.

 

The wires follow the color code:
Black = 0
Brown = 1
Red = 2
....
Violet = 7
Gray = 8

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_color_code

 

Shawn: I will look for traces when I get home (I did already, but will try again tonight)

Springfield: Do you "know" this, or just an educated guess? I'm not so certain that it correlates that way (I am also not as experienced). I was going try that as the first attempt, but am afraid of letting out the magic smoke.

 

That color code works on components but how do you figure it for the connector wires? I am not being sarcastic. If it does apply please educate me as how it does. I am ready to learn sumptin.
Black = 0 There is no 0 pin

 

Post better photos of front and rear if you can.

Thanks

 

I'll get some close ups tonight. there is a big rf shield soldered over the bt chip making it harder to trace traces.

Springfield: sorry, I missed the link the first time. I'll read that more thoroughly later. thanks.

 

the best camera I have is my phone. I'll ask my wife where her fany 14mp one is....
for now, here's what I got;


In the 2nd photo, pins 2 and 3 go through vias to the other side. pin 8 runs to the resistor near it.

?????

 

OK,I think I have it figured out. maybe. kinda. sorta.

I realized:
the plug to the mobo is 2x5
pinout chart from manual is formatted 2x5.
IF Blk is gnd then the rest of the pins are easy to figure out.
Sounds good. Until I cut off the connector to tin the wires and try it out. That's when I found out that red and brown are encased in another braid/shield separate from the rest: they are +3v and "kill_swch#" if I am correct. Why? Does this sound right? I would have assumed the usb D+ and D- would have been shielded.

Please help, I don't want to bake anything.
Take a look at the attachment for more on my guess. I have added the color of the wire next to the pinout chart, and also reassembled the colors in the order that they appear on the actual BT board (with the assumed assignments)

 

The pinout diagram is probably formatted for the mobo connector. It would then be a mirror image on the connector from the pc board.

 

shoot. ur 1/2 right. that is a pinout of cn27 plug, and I deciphered it as the receptacle. ok, let me smoke some brain cells up flipping everything around.

looking at it further, by flipping it around a few times, the 2 usb pins can be made to be in the jacket/shield.

I'll be back.

 

Good call Shawn.
Flipping it around for the correct orientation still maintains gnd on the blk and wht wires, so I'm happy with that.

I'm gonna go do some soldering, plug it into something, and see if there is magic blue smoke.....
I'll update the other two posts with the correct attachement.

 

OK!!!!!
SO, I put the two gnds together, prp to +, and the two data's together, plugged it in, and viola, it shows up as "taiyo yuden for toshiba (0x0200)" for which there is NO driver available. It should just come up as a recognized device, but does not.

SO I hooked up BTMDL# to + and tried again, and it just says that the usb device has malfunctioned.
Also, I was using an actual USB port, which should be putting out 5v, and on the pinout it says 3v. Could too much voltage be screwing up device recognition?

Not sure what BTMDL#, CH_CLK, and CH_Data are for. I think BTMDL# means BlueTooth MoDeL, but don't know why it's an input????? Check Clock and Check Data could be tied into some toshiba proprietary thing (to stop idiots from doing this), but I'm not sure.

Anyone have any ideas? I'll figure out what resistor I need to throw in to drop it to 3.7v and try again.

 

Your VDD should be 3.3V, not 3.7 and your BTMDL I believe is used to light an LED indicator.

The fact that it gives you a PID indicates that it is working and at least mostly functional; I can't say for how long running at 5V. You should seek a source of 3.3V to power it; they do this to make it a lower power device. This should be available around the RAM and CPU Power Supply sections.

Once you have the voltage issue resolved, I suggest placing an LED across that pin to GND, and if that doesn't work try the LED across your 3.3V and that pin.

CH_CLK and CH_DATA are CHANNELS for connection to an internal Synchronous Serial Data bus such that it can talk directly to a processor; they have to share the same clock signal to talk over that connection. I believe your module SHOULD have its own clock and be able to function without it as it is USB capable.

According to a few hits on Google, your PID is for a Toshiba Satellite M300 laptop; there are 4 versions but it looks like they all use the same download page at Toshiba:

Model Content Page Select Bluetooth from the Categories DropDown.

As I do not see a separate Bluetooth Stack listed for XP, I can only assume that means they used the default Windows stack for this model.

Pin 9 KILL_SWCH is used to turn the BT OFF/ON; you should be able to switch it off by shorting to GND/Driving LO. This is typically controllable both by software and a switch; either will drive it LO to turn BT off.

Good luck!

mnem
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