Toughbook CF-18 Mk1 Sound Problem

Hi All,

My first post here. I have just purchased a second hand CF-18B (Mark 1). When it arrived none of the drivers were installed for the touchscreen, Wireless LAN, Hotkeys, etc. I've now got all these working, except the sound device. I've installed the driver from the Panasonic website (SigmaTel), but this shows up in the Device Manager as Error Code 10 (Can not start). I've tried various drivers with no success. OS is Windows XP Home SP2.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks,

Stront.

 

Sounds like a job for ZeroFlight or TBTech....

Have you tried uninstalling it and then reinstalling it? Also... When you say "Panasonic website"... Which one? I've noticed that some are not that good. (There are several actually.)

Try this one...

http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wc...ePage?langId=-1&storeId=15001&catalogId=13401

 

I won't be able to look at driver details until Monday to help you there but if you're getting that error, it's probably software related somehow. If the hardware directly related to sound went, it either wouldn't show up at all or would show up & just not play sound.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!

I've downloaded all the CF-18B drivers from the Panasonic Website at http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs...atalogId=13401 . They were the same as the one's I already had unfortunately so that did't solve it.

At the moment my Device Manager shows the following under Sound, Video and Game Controllers:

Audio Codecs
Audio Codecs
Legacy Audio Drivers
Legacy Audio Drivers
Legacy Video Capture
Media Control Devices
Video Codecs


The only way I can get the "SigmaTel C-Major Audio" to show in device manager is to use the Add Hardware Wizard to add a new sound device then selecting "Have Disk" and pointing the browser at the "stac97" driver which extracted when I opened the sound driver file I downloaded from the Panasonic website mentioned above.

After doing this, "SigmaTel C-Major Audio" and a new "Unknown Device" shows up in the device manager under sound devices, see below.

Audio Codecs
Audio Codecs
Legacy Audio Drivers
Legacy Audio Drivers
Legacy Video Capture
Media Control Devices
SigmaTel C-Major Audio Error:This device cannot start. (Code 10)
Unknown Device
Video Codecs


I can't think of anything else to try now, perhaps you guys can point me in the right direction.

Thanks for your help so far, hope you can make sense of this

Stront.

 

Could this be an IRQ issue if the sound card will not start?

 

I had a look at device manager and viewed resources by connection. I couldn't see any sound device listed. I must admit I know little about IRQs though.

Stront.

 

Doob -

Not wanting to point out the incredibly obvious, but one of the reasons a device cannot start in Windows is because it hasn't been enabled yet (this sometimes happens when you force a driver install).
Another thing to look for is to get into msconfig & see if the Windows Audio Service is enabled; this can prevent a sound device from being able to start because of service dependency. :GEEK:

mnem
!!!***BEWARE!!!***!!!
MSCONFIG tinkers with your System Registry; I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE for dead Windoze, showers of sparks, invasion by hordes of pygmy warriors with blowguns, gout, discoloration of the skin or marital strife caused by your dumb arse messing with stuph in the deepest innards of your OS if you don't know what yer doing. That said, GOOD LUCK.

 

If you run into the error “This device cannot start. Code 10″ (often followed by a driver identifier, for example “This device cannot start. Code 10 in audio driver” , here is what it means.

The Windows error “This device cannot start. Code 10″ or “This device cannot start. (Code 10)” is a hardware error that most commonly means that you have a bad, missing, or incompatible device driver. So, for example, “This device cannot start. Code 10 in audio driver” means that you have a bad or missing or incompatible driver for your sound card.

The technical explanation for this message, according to Microsoft, is this:

“If the device has a FailReasonString value in its hardware key, that string appears as the error message. The driver or enumerator puts this registry string value there. If there is no FailReasonString in the hardware key, you receive the following error message:

This device cannot start. (Code 10)”

What does that mean in plain English? It means that if the device which is throwing the error has added its own custom error text to your Windows system when the device was installed, then when the device encounters an error, you will see the custom error message specific to that device. But if it doesn’t have its own custom error message, then Windows uses its own generic error message for devices, which is “This device cannot start. (Code 10)”

Microsoft recommends that when this happens, you click “Update Driver” to update the drivers for the device. You can also start the Windows troubleshooting wizard by going to the general properties tab of the device, and clicking on “Troubleshoot”.

Before doing this, be sure that you have the correct and most up-to-date versions of the driver(s) for that device. You can also try uninstalling and reinstalling the device, using the disk which came with it.

Finally, you can go to the website of the device’s manufacturer, and check their downloads or support section for current, up-to-date drivers.

~~Found this while researching your problem...

 

You can take a stab and try http://www.driverguide.com. They have a free registration and I have found some wierd and hard to find drivers from them in the past. The downfall is that not ALL drivers are downloadable for free; some require you to "pay" by increasing your membership to a paid one.

 

Well... I stand corrected. I suppose the first thing that comes to mind isn't always the best answer...

mnem
BOO!

 

Wasn't trying to prove you wrong, or me right for that matter. To me, it was obvious that it was enabled because it was listed in his Device Manager. I questioned the the IRQ aspect because of the message (could not start); ie: it was enabled, but "couldn't start". I was thinking of the problems others were having with the GPS mods in which they clearly had them enabled, but the GPS module would not "Turn On". I believe either Modly or Toughbook posted the fix to switch it to IRQ 7. That's what made me think that if you have a device enabled, but not working, it could be an IRQ conflict. Don't know still if that is true or not, but it sure made sense in my brain and fit my train of thought in troubleshooting this problem. Your message just encouraged me to dig deeper and question my train of thinking is all.

 

Gotcha - but what I was referring to was "enabled" or "disabled" in Device Manager, not BIOS. Sometimes when you force installation of a device, Windows will not automatically enable it if there is already a device it thinks should be occupying those resources, or if that driver is dependent on a service which has not been started yet. The big clue to me SHOULD have been code 10; but I was being lazy.

mnem
Start me...restart me...UNSTOP ME!

 

Glad my question provoked some deep thought

I've tried a few more drivers from driverguide.com as well as the SigmaTel website. Still no joy. I'm going to bite the bullet, format, and install Windows XP Pro with SP2 and see how I get on from there.

One other thought; when I first got the machine I installed all the drivers I downloaded from the Panasonic website in a pretty random order. Do you guys think this is relevant? Is there a specific order for installing drivers?

Cheers,

Stront.

 

Mmmmhmmm... I'm running SP2 on my CF-28 Mk3 & the only stock Panasonic drivers I'm running are video & touchscreen. The only issue I've had is a jumpy touchpad; the touchscreen works a dream. Other on this forum have stated that the touchscreen driver is also the touchpad driver; & I've followed the instructions in the FAQ which got my touchscreen working. I suspect a damaged touchpad as it's very badly worn w/some heavy scarring; but I'm also considering that there may be some MB/PCI BUS/Chipset driver not installed that I don't know about.

mnem
*Kicks Bill Gates in the knee, just because*

 

Chipset driver first, then reboot and then any of those drivers. If it tells you to reboot one at a time, do it. Hope it will help


ohlip

 

You know of a chipset driver package for the Mk3? I haven't been able to actually FIND one posted anywhere... unless I'm just too daft to know where to look. I've got the individual drivers for the video, audio, touchscreen, etc. thanks to Modly, but NOTHING for the MB chipset or PCI bridge.

mnem <~~~Takes out a loan & buys a clue*

 

Are you reffering to cf-18 or cf-28?

 

D'OH!... the CF-28 Mk3.

mnem
*Toddles off to eat a D'OH!nut...*

 

Just to clarify coz we are on the cf-18 thread.

 

Thanks, I'll try that and let you know how it went.

Stront.

 

Just found these installation instructions on the Panasonic website and followed them exactly:

https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/pc/cgi-bin/itn/toughbook/dl02.cgi?main=4510

Nearly finished, I'll post again soon, fingers crossed!

Stront.

 

When I got down to the sound driver instructions: Update driver [Other devices]-[Multimedia Audio Controller, it wasn't listed. Maybe the hardware isn't there or it's broken?

Stront.

 

Ugggh... You know, I'm not at all familiar with the construction of this model but if it were an everyday consumer laptop, I'd be thinking there was a subsystem board with the sound partially unplugged, and I'd start tearing it apart for a looksee.

mnem
What's a little exploratory surgery between friends?

 

Unfortunately, the sound is part of the mainboard. The speaker is part of the DIMM slot cover and plugs in right next to the ram slot.

 

Looking at the service manual, the audio module is on it's own small PCB, so I might have a little look inside.

Stront.

 

I opened up the Toughbook and after removing the modem to get to the Audio PCB I found the audio PCB's ribbon cable unplugged! That explains why it wasn't showing up in the device manager

The problem I've got now is getting the ribbon cable back in to the connector which is on the underside of the Motherboard (brown, plastic, about 1 inch wide). I cant seem to get at it by removing the keyboard either as the metal casing gets in the way.

Other than removing the entire mobo and all the connectors, which I don't really want to do, does anybody have a tip or trick to getting this cable seated?

Stront.

 

*Sigh*

If you can get a good grip on it, a pair of curved hemostats MIGHT do the job. (Just guessing - I really have no mental picture of this particular unit) - Otherwise, I fear you're gonna have to just suck it up & R&R the MB.

mnem
We have nothing to fear except fear itself! That and pygmies with blowguns... why do they love my tires so...?

 

I always thought that pcb just controlled the jacks. Apparently not.

The cable slides in parallel to the mainboard instead of directly at the board which is kind of nice. If have decent dexterity and some small tool like a dental pick or a dull pin or something, you can flip down the brown cable securing thing, line up the cable (tweezers work for me), use the pin to flip the securing thing back into place.

Otherwise if you want, if you take a picture of it with the bottom off and looking at the mainboard, I can tell you how to get the board up w/out messing anything up.

 

That would be great ZeroFlight! I'll try to get a picture of it posted soon.

Thanks,

Stront.

 

I tried to insert the ribbon cable using tweezers, but the brown plastic clip seperated from the connector on the main board I don't think it's broken, just needs clipping back into place. Looks like I'm going to have to remove the main board.

Photos below as requested:

1 Main Board and with GPRS Modem PCB in place.


2 GPRS Modem PCB removed showing Audio PCB and ribbon cable.




Thanks again for all your help to date!

Stront.

 

This will take me some time to type out and since I'm running a booth at a local show tonight, I won't be able to finish it until later tonight. That will also give me time to go through and make sure I don't accidentally leave something important out.

 

Thanks ZeroFlight!

 

There are 2 ways to do the cable. You can remove the board entirely to do it or just pull up part of the board to do it. For the sake of completion and in case you can't get the other to work, I'll include both. If you want to pull out the board completely and see everything you're doing in clear light, start with the following paragraph, otherwise move to the next one and I'll call it the minimalist way since there's much less work.

Start by looking at the keyboard. You don't need a picture for that. Remove the 4 screws you can see just to the back of the keyboard (2 holding down each little plate). Remove those plates and set aside (they just fall off). Flip up the keyboard from the back (it will probably have a little tape holding it down). Remove the 3 silver screws on the plate and pull up the plate too. Undo all of the cables... 1 keyboard cable and 2 or 3 lcd cables depending on if you have a digitizer or touchscreen. The cable with the silver connector is always a bit of a pain so use something to help pry up the corners of it but be careful not to pull any wires out of the connector. Anyway, once all of those cables are off, you can flip the laptop back over.

Before moving to the picture, the GPS module you had flipped up in the second one, unplug the cable from it. It doesn't matter which end of the cable is unplugged but I'd probably do the one on the mainboard. Set it aside somewhere.

Now, onto the picture. I rotated it because that's just how I always am looking at it so that's how I'm familiar with it. Start by removing all of the screws the arrows are pointing to. The top right arrow currently points to a cable but there's a screw there (or should be). You may want to print your picture and tape the screws to the spot on the picture where they go... easier to figure out where they go back that way. The yellow arrows are screws you'll put back later. The 2 blue ones are screws that shouldn't be there. Normally, a screw would go through the bottom cabinet into those spots.

After all of the screws are removed, undo all of the cables with a white dot on them (in the picture). The top left plug goes straight up as opposed to flipping up. The one next to it may have a little square foam piece with a little tape, it comes off easy & is meant to help keep the brown piece down. If it's there, pull it off because you'll have to take it off to plug the cable back in. I usually just put it right back on after the cable is off so I don't lose it. The LAN jack on the left side, the black/red cable in the center, the DC jack cable on the bottom left, and the CMOS battery cable in the bottom center just pop out like a plug. Next to that cable is a very short ribbon cable... it doesn't matter which side you unplug or both, it's your choice. On the 4 antenna cables in the right side, if you're pulling the board, just unplug the black and grey ones next to each other... leave the two furthest toward the back plugged in. If you're doing the minimalist approach, unplug the two in the back and the black one and leave the other on (going to the WLAN module) plugged in (you may want to color one of the gray ones with a marker to tell the difference... up to you).

Once all of those screws and cables are undone/removed, move onto the numbers. If you're going for the minimalist approach, skip to second-to-last paragraph otherwise keep reading. At number 1, that whole piece of metal and the modem card comes off and just flips over onto its back in the empty space to the right. It connects on the edge closest to the back of the laptop and just unplugs. Again, pop it up and flip it over to the right out of the way somewhere (you don't need to undo the cable connected to it).

Number 2: the WLAN module, unplug the back cable that trails away under the board (lighter gray or white... can't tell) and unplug the module same as you would a stick of RAM. You should have a gray cable still attached to it but to nothing else. Set it aside somewhere until you're done.

Number 3: You only have to do this if you're pulling the board; minimalist approach doesn't mess with it any further. Take off this PCB. It pops up and should feel about the same as the modem coming up. It should only have the 2 back gray cables attached to it so just flip it over the edge of the laptop out of the way.

You don't need to completely remove the board but I've explained it most of the way already so I'll finish here just for your FYI. Minimalist approach skip to the next paragraph. So, when you pull out the board, the PC slots will come with it. When you start doing the following stuff, a metal bar by number 4 will come off but don't worry about it for now. Start by lifting up the right side a little. You'll be restricted because of the audio cable at the bottom right. It should give a little resistance at first but not too much. If it gives too much, there's probably a screw or a cable still holding it down, possibly from the other side by the keyboard. After you figure it out, kind of lift it a little and try again. Once it comes up a little, move to the top area and do the same there. Once that comes up nicely, you should be able to pull gently up and to the right away from the edge that has the jacks and the PC slots. Just an inch or so to the side should be enough & just pull straight out. It's actually easier than it sounds. Just use your judgement & you should be ok. Once its up, you can flip it over to the right and unplug or plug in the audio cable as you see fit.

This tiny paragraph is just for plugging in that one cable the minimalist way. All you need to do is lift up that corner of the board by the cable. The board will come up a few inches to give you some play and should be enough for you to get it all lined up nicely.

That's it. I'll create a separate post for putting it back together but it will reference the same picture.

 

This is for putting it back together and should be considerably shorter. Regardless of which approach you took, there is a metal bar that sits at number 4 underneath (toward LCD side) the black piece. After the board is seated well (see 3rd paragraph if you pulled the board), make sure this is on. There is really only 1 good way to seat it. The 4 holes should be facing down (toward the LCD with the other part of the L shape sticking up toward you. If you did it right, you should be able to slide in the hard drive ok.

If you took the minimalist approach, you shouldn't have to worry about reseating the mainboard. Start with the screws - put the screws back in where you found them (4 long silver in the top left, 2 medium length silver at number 4). Plug the cables back in. The 2 cables at the front all fold over a little & are a little weird for that reason. Check them to make sure they're facing the right way and not pinched. Make sure you get the 4 antenna cables right. Put the GPS back & screw it back in and you're pretty much done. Check over everything to make sure all of the cables are plugged in and screws at the yellow arrows are in. Just don't forget the bottom cabinet and don't forget to plug the speaker back in when you do it.

The mainboard approach is a little different. When you reseat it the mainboard, you'll angle it in down and to the left. You should open up the PC slot door and help guide it into place. There's a plastic piece that slips between the slots and the board you'll have to guide in with your finger. Watch for pinching or pushing cables under the board. The LAN jack and the cables at the top are easy to push under so make sure they're sticking out and free. Once you get it all lined up & the cables pulled up, the board should lay pretty flat and not wiggle too much. Make sure the bar at 4 is lined up like described at the top. The PCB at 3 should just flip back over and push down/connect without any problems. Plug the WLAN card back into its socket. Flip the bar/modem at 1 back over and push it back down, connecting it. Put the GPS back, screw it in and plug it in. Screw everything else back in (except the blue arrows). Plug all of the cables back in where they should be... use the picture for reference. Flip over the laptop and plug in the cables there (each cable only has one place it can fit). Make sure all cables are secured well and not sticking out crooked. Screw in that keyboard plate, put the keyboard back on (angling in toward the front) and the 2 little plates and that's it. Don't forget the bottom cab and don't forget to plug in the speaker.

Combined with the other post, that gives you info to replace anything you see there.

 

ZeroFlight, Thank you very much!

Gonna try to do it tomorrow evening, I'll let you know how I get on. Interesting that those 2 (blue arrow) screws were in the wrong place, guess that that's all part of the joy of buying from ebay!

Once again, many thanks ZeroFlight, I really appreciate your help.

Stront.

 

Yeah, at least having them doesn't mess anything up beyond not being able to put the screws in those spots from the rear cab. On some of the other laptops doing something like that could really screw it up. Also, just from looking at the color of the screw, one of the others wasn't put back correctly but since it's just a little length difference it's not a big deal.

 

Somebody, anybody, do something good. Quick. I need to spread some reputation around before I give anymore to ZeroFlight.


Zero...,
Wow!, Have you ever though about getting a job as a Toughbook Tech?

Nice couple o' posts. Thanks, If I ever own an 18 I'll hope to find them again.

 

Lol, that's how I know what to do and why I joined here.

 

Yeah,
In Maine we use sarcasm liberally. Kansas will catch up, glad you're here.

 

I figured but just in case...

 

Just to add a real quick note to ZeroFlight's perfect instructions --- When you insert the FFC's (small white flat cables with blue ends) be extra careful to have the clips on the connectors open and use very little force. The tiny wires love to seperate from the end and get all kinds of crooked. This can cause the any of the LED/Touchpad/IO PCB/Wireless PCB/GPS/Sound PCB to act really strange or not function at all.

Also be careful when plugging back in the LAN connector. Don't force it in, the pins extending out from the connector on the mainboard can also bend easily. Should you have a slightly bent pin, a #2 mechanical pencil with the lead removed works great at getting it straight again.

Just a couple quick FYI's.

Very solid details ZeroFlight!

 

Got round to doing it today. All back together, turned it on and I got a checksum error and had to put the date and time back in the BIOS. Then I restarted and got an "Operating System not found" error!

I've checked all the cables are seated properly. They all look ok to me. I can even hear the HDD spin up and the HDD light comes on. Any ideas what might be causing this?

On the plus side, when I switched the laptop off it went beep, the first time I've ever heard it make a sound

Anybody got any ideas on what to do next?

Stront.

 

DOH! HDD Security lock was enabled!

I disabled that and it booted straight away and detected an audio controller. The drivers went in no probs and I've now got sound!

Once again, many thanks guys for all your help, especially ZeroFlight. You really have gone above and beyond!

Cheers,

Stront.

 

Glad to hear it worked. Out of curiosity, which method did you use?

 

I decided to do it properly and removed the entire PCB. No snags, instructions worked a treat!

Cheers,

Stront.