Liquid Metal Repaste of Razer Blade 2016 + GPU overclock

Anyone? please? ><

 

Still getting idles of 60C despite the LM now sticking to the heatsink.. and now the GPU may be perma broken..

 

Crashed during firestrike..

EDIT: survived timespy benchmark and sky diver stress test, 94% on sky diver
Passed a second firestrike stress test

EDIT2: in thinking about it after calming down a little the crash may have been caused by undervolting, the laptop 'survived' firestrike EX and Ultra stress tests without crashing

Still worried about that broken bit on the GPU

 

Whats the name of the bit that chipped off and is there any hope of getting it replaced or fixed?..

 

Idle is at 55-65C, getting 90s in XTU stress test, the LM is definitely sticking to the heatsink now that its been cleaned, GPU idle is around 40-50C

http://imgur.com/a/B0QyQ

 

Replacement heatsink arrived.. and the pipes are pinched near the fins...

 

GPU is maxing around 77 in FFXIV at max settings, CPU at 98C

 

These are my temps on both 2014 and 2015 Razer Blades while playing FFXIV (since it is the game i play the most) with no cooler or any additional space between the flat surface and the laptop, just to give you an idea of what your temps should be depending on your system specs and TIM.

RB 2014 i7-4702/GTX870M (Conductonaut)

CPU:
Average: 78c - 80c
Max (short spike): 90c

GPU:
Average: 82c
Max: 85c

RB 2015 i7-4720/GTX970M (Arctic MX-4)

CPU:
Average: 85c - 92c
Max (short spike): 97c

GPU:
Average: 75c
Max: 82c

 

Yeah.. I'm getting higher temps than your traditional paste 2015 (mine is a 2015 model) with the LM, at least on the CPU and only par on the GPU. The CPU also seems to struggle to return to 50C after running a 3DMark stress test.

Hoping for a bit more advice on what to try before i give in and try to clean up the heatsink of the jbweld and stuff and try kryonaut on the CPU. Would removing the LM from the CPU, cleaning it, and then reapplying help possibly? The haswell CPU is also wider than the copper heatpipes, not sure what to be doing about that.

The replacement heatsink i dont know what to do about either, is pinched heatpipes going to have a significant temperature effect?

 

Fill the gaps between the heatpipes with thermal paste, use the dot method on the GPU and the line method on the CPU, you need to apply a bit more paste on this laptop.

 

Oh no i get how to apply paste to it, but i have some jbweld where the CPU would touch the aluminum of the heatsink. I dont quite know what to do about that. And the spare has pinched heatpipes. I only have enough Kryonaut for one application so im holding out incase there's any advice about the LM left.

The CPU cant seem to get back to 50C after a stress test of either the CPU or GPU.

 

There is nothing you can do to avoid the contact between the CPU die and the aluminum of the heatsink, that's how Razer designed it (which is bad imo, this heatsink would work with the new skylake/kabylake CPUs since the die is smaller)

If liquid metal didnt work after many applications, just go with Kryonaut, make sure everything is clean and there is no LM at all on the chips before you apply the thermal paste.

 

Double post.

 

Thoughts on using the heatsink with the pinched pipes? I dont know if i can remove the jb weld well enough off of this one.

 

Ha.. kryonaut temps are at 60C idle too with the bent up heatsink.. FML..

 

And under stress? bent pipes are not ideal, but I was hoping the spare heatsink would solve your issue ....the Razer Blades don´t tend to get massive improvements in temps with repasting, be it with LM or normal paste, as other machines might get, which is unfortunate...some get more mileage out of repasting than others. There are plenty that actually get worse temps after repasting a RB, believe or not, with that awful original paste job. I would say, stress test more with the replacement heatsink and kryonaut, and if temps stay in the low 90s during load, call it a day.

 

Have you tried using extra thermal paste? I know most people will cringe at this suggestion, but your CPU may not be getting enough contact with the heat sink otherwise. At least that was the case for mine. I had to apply a lot more LM than normal because the contact was so poor. I'm assuming this is why the paste from the factory is applied so heavily as well.

 

Edit: Nvm, found ny answers in another tread.

 

Hey man, I was wondering if you could give us a hand with unscrewing the heatsync. Cheers

 

That is a nice drop in temps. At one time I had considered getting a Blade, and doing similar.
Using that much liquid metal is a bit risky, but looks like you did a fine job.

 

I was inspired by this tutorial and I did the same liquid metal repaste, noticed a 10 degree drop in temps for both CPU and GPU under load. It's great, but with that headroom I would like to overclock above the possible 135 mHz, can you explain how you got the vbios modded? Appreciate it

Edit : If someone has original vBIOS or a vBIOS that works for 2016 970m can they please forward it to me?

 

Hi Everyone, I have an old 2014 Razer Blade with the 870M GPU. I'm really considering trying the LM method but was wondering if I am buying the right supplies needed. Can anyone double check these are the right ones? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-extra-Applicators/dp/B078J4PSHM/

https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Two-1-oz-Twin-Tube-Kwikweld-8276/100139717

https://www.staples.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak-2-oz-Mounting-Adhesive-Putty-1270884/product_1480018

Is it possible to get extra security to avoid LM on aluminum by using both the JB Weld and putty together on the copper?

 

That seems really excessive.
You need to remember that the width of space between the BGA silicon slug and the BGA housing is less than 1mm. Both of those things you listed I can't possibly forsee them being less than 1mm in compression.

For basic protection of the SMD /exposed traces and resistors around the CPU and GPU housings (assuming you're doing the GPU), you can use Super 33+ tape, Kapton tape (not low quality tape), or 3 coats of nail polish (Cellulose based). Don't use regular old cheap electrical tape. That stuff is bad and too thick. You can use Super 33+ or nail polish. I personally use nail polish but it's your choice.

If you're talking about "emergency dams" to stop LM runoff, then there are several ways to get creative.
You can use VERY VERY lightly dense cutout compressible foam, with a shape cut out in the CPU or GPU, but it has to be VERY light foam. Dense foam isn't good because it creates resistance on already super light pressure heatsink mountings. If you find foam that is like 1/4" of an inch thick, and compresses EASILY to the width of a human hair, in your fingers, without resistance, you can use that. You can also cut out a square of it and if you have a very fine exacto knife, 3M blade or other titanium blade, you can try cutting it in half to make the thickness even less (but this is very difficult to do without destroying the foam), but its doable.

Another thing you can try is to use RTV silicone, a VERY thin layer of it in a circle around the housing, and then compress it with 3M Super 33+ tape. It has to be a VERY thin layer, remember what I told you about the BGA chip silicon being less than 1mm raised up? Then after you apply your layer, do the 3M tape insulation and make sure you compress it well so there is far less than 1mm of any raised surface. Then apply your LM and mount. Later, when you remove the 3M tape, you will see the RTV silicon has hardened. If you did this right, the layer should be firmly around the CPU, without blocking the heatsink, because the heatsink compression should keep it down. Then you should have a permanent dam, and you can remove the 3M tape and apply nail polish instead later. Mr Fox tried something like this, although I haven't.

Another option is to use a very thick thermal compound, not the stuff you usually buy now, but the super thick white stuff that used to be common in the past, like Radio Shack thermal compound, or Ceramique or Ceramique 2, and apply that in a circle around the edge of the CPU or GPU area. Just be careful and don't apply a lot and make sure you don't get it on the chip itself. that will also act as a barrier and that old stuff is so thick that it won't go anywhere. It may dry out but it will still be there.

 

The RB has a direct to heat pipe contact with aluminum plate, so the OP used epoxy diluted to protect the aluminum and Mobius used RTV silicone.

Enviado de meu Pixel 2 usando Tapatalk

 

The RB with the 870M has the direct to heatpipe on the cpu and gpu.....so the RTV silicone or epoxy should be used on both sides....this is mobius method with RTV.

 

Do NOT use JB weld

RTV silicone is more than enough

 

Great, Thanks for the quick replies. I'll try the RTV silicone and Super 33+ to see how it goes.

 

Can I mix the rubbing alcohol with the RTV silicone for an even layer?

 

Just wanted to write my experience without having to open up a new thread.

I've yesterday repasted my 2017 Blade, which was reaching 100C CPU wise during PUBG sessions at stock. The repaste was done with the only thermal paste I had available, a MX-2.

Temperatures dropped like CRAZY; I've tried running prime95+Fire Strike all togethere and CPU has never gone over 79 C at absolutely all. I've had few hours long PUBG session on an external 144 hz monitor and temperatures stood under 78C, peaks included, while GPU reached 80C.

Razer thermal paste is ****, I've had 3 Blades and I've gone through 7 RMAs till now in around two years and this is the only repaste I've attempted and I absolutely regret having never done it earlier.

I'll buy diamod paste whenever I get the time to do the work and will attempt to go even lower with temps.

 

Wow, that's pretty hot for the cpu. Even before repaste I would have looked at solutions like throttlestop and disabling turbo and hyper threading. Even with repaste I suggest you look into those as well. From what I found on my 6700HQ, doing any of the above does not impact performance much. In fact, because of the lower temps of the cpu, you can push your graphics higher I.e. over clock for bigger performance impact. I was regretting buying 970m model when 1060 came out like 2 months later but doing this made it worth it.

 

I've had one, I'm in this community for a few years now cause of that notebook.

Nope, I don't see why I should do it as temps are fine now, although I used to.

The notebook is already undervolted, through BIOS mod though.

 

One more update on the matter:

Ordered GC-EX1G and some Phobya CPU surface cleaner which I procedeed applying.

In the same RL scenarios in which the GPU was reaching 100C and the GPU 85C the notebook is currently staying under, respectively, 76C and 81C.

Repase those blades before they die on you!

 

What is the "blue tack" exactly? Where did you buy it?

 

Hi, I'm about to get a Razer Blade 2016 (gtx 970m / i7 7700hq)

I plan to use IC diamond 7, will it be effective in lowering down the stock temps? And also bridge the gap between the die and heatsink?

 

Razer Blade 2016 with 970m comes with i7 6700HQ Skylake not 7700HQ kabylake, kabylake is on 2017 model with gtx1060. Maybe repasting will lower their temperature but i would take a look the stock temperature first, if it with cpu undervolting on max load can stay on max mid 80ish I don’t think it’s needed to repasting not pad moding. My 2015 14 was fine 2 years gaming usage on stock thermal paste with those temperature range. If it hits 90 oftentimes then yes repasting needed.

 

My bad. Yes, I meant mine has i7 6700 HQ. Good point. I'll try undervollting 1st. Just in case, I need to do repaste, what do you think would be best? Liquid metal could be good but some say a traditional paste like IC Diamond 7 which is really thick can cover the gaps between the heatsink and die (plus less risk too).

 

Yes first use normal thermal paste like that.