Razer Blade Pro 17" GTX 1080 GPU/7820K CPU 2017 Owner's Lounge

Double post

 

It’s great temperature for Blade Pro. If you’re not familiar with bios moding I’d stay with current setting, there’s a risk even personally low, but it may brick your system if you messed with the setting. Razer bios is quite tight even you can unlock some function it may not be apply able on real usage, I tried to adjust fans curve per bios yesterday and didn’t manage it, it didn’t apply but it still kicking on on default temperature.

 

Well yeah I haven't done it before and if the risk was great I would be glad to follow on your advise as I don't want another headache :/

I was skeptical at first on reopening my laptop during the full blast fiasco since my temp on full load both CPU and GPU it never went past 76C on both however I know my fans will burn out soon so i decided to reopen it again just a shame, the RBP could even be cooler with couple more tweaks in fan when plugin or during heavy load at users will, but Razer decided to lock it down.

And by the way speaking of tweak when I use XTU it seems nothing happen, as in my temps are the same, I tried disabling RZperformance to make sure it won't conflict on XTU as I read in earlier post about it.Any thought on this one? Thank you for all your help wish I see this post a year earlier.

 

Hi, ive got a razer blade pro 2017 uhd gtx 1080 i recently had it repaired by razer after the battery bloated. Problem im having is when gaming the battery starts discharging about 1% every 3 minutes. Ive read this whole thread and have undervolted the cpu using xtu but im a bit confused about using after burner. When i press ctrl f the graph shows up but its all greyed out i can move the dots around and ive seen a picture of the graph that i can copy in this thread but the lines and the dots are all greyed out. How do i undervolt with afterburner is basically my question and will that stop the battery discharging while gaming?

 

The battery is still going down by approximately 1% every four minutes while gaming plugged in. Ive sort of sorted this problem pretty much and got the battery drain down to 0.2% every 10 minutes. To do this you will need to download MSI Afterburner and the XTU Tuning utility follow all the instructions in this link: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...some-tweaks-apply-for-late-2016-model.807563/
When writing this all the images had disappeared so follow this next link and make your afterburner settings the same as in the first post: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...u-7820k-cpu-2017-owners-lounge.803629/page-41
Dont worry if your afterburner lines and dots are greyed out its fine just change the dots around and hit close then click on the button to start it with windows. Be Sure to disable the rzperformance service as it says in the first link(just type in how to disable services in windows 10 into google) also type device manager into the windows search bar go to device manager control panel-click on "Human Interface Devices then click on HID-compliant touch screen then right click on it and disable it(this will obviously disable the touchscreen). After that connect your razer blade pro to a 4k screen. go to project(bottom right corner in windows 10) and click on second screen only also turn your chroma keyboard lighting off and the logo lighting to off. If you go to settings in windows then system then display you can also turn on HDR streaming for games and videos. After youve done all this you should now notice that on AAA games set on ultra in 4K HDR your battery drain should fall to around 0.1-0.2% every 8-10 minutes which is enough to game all day. However when your gaming on the move, if you suffer from this problem at all that is, your battery drain is gonna be about 1% every 3-4 minutes. But with the undervolting fan speeds and temps drop greatly although my laptop screen flickers and does a little funny blank screen for a few seconds on start up but then its fine. Cheers.

EDIT: 13/10/2019
So with further testing you dont have to turn the keyboard lighting, logo lighting, touch screen or the screen off you just have to undervolt the cpu and then you have to undervolt the GPU properly the picture in the second link is a bit outdated so i will include a picture of my afterburner curve here. just make sure each dot is atleast a little bit above the previous dot or you will have crashing. Cheers.

So i cant add pictures here for some reason ive added a picture at the bottom of the following razer insider thread of my afterburner curve.

https://insider.razer.com/index.php...e-pro-2017-4k-1tb-gtx-1080.50141/#post-494177

EDIT: 20/07/2019
There is no doubt after further testing that undervolting the GPU and CPU gives a positive charge while gaming with everything switched on and even multiple peripherals and even a monitor plugged in. However theres a couple of things ive noticed. The battery always falls from 100% to 95%(the plugged in not charging range) if you have g-sync enabled the batery will continue to fall while gaming. So say you have g sync enabled start a game at 100% batery the battery will fall after a couple of hours to say 20% for example then when you stop the game and restart it the battery will begin to positively charge and continue to 100% then start the same cycle again. Now say you start a game with 100% charge with g-sync disabled the battery will fall to 95% then recharge to 100% then discharge to 95% then recharge to 100% etc etc. I personally prefer it with g-sync disabled as i feel it makes little to no difference having it enabled. However if anyone has any answers as to why this is happening then i am all ears anyways any comments or questions then please send a reply thanks!!!

 

This comment needs deleting.

 

Anyone else still using this laptop? Have anyone tried to switch from the 4K display to the 1080p 120Hz display? Even with a 4K display, I am running at 1080p because games work the best at 1080p and borderless windowed mode is a PITA to work with. I'm trying Borderless-Gaming but it's also a PITA.

My battery swelled after a year. I stopped using it almost a year ago and only removed the battery very recently.

I ordered a new battery but now it made me thinking that maybe I should've saved the money for something better. The battery alone costs 100 USD and there's no way to tell if the battery will not swell again after a year. The whole laptop as a package is really hot and the original battery says, "DO NOT EXPOSE TO TEMPERATURE ABOVE 65 DEGREES CELSIUS." I know Razer engineers are stupid but not this stupid. They made a huge laptop with two fans that are as small as a fish brain. I don't know what they were thinking while designing this.

This laptop, it seems to me, is not designed for long gaming sessions. It forces you take breaks every a couple of hours, let the laptop cool down before turning it on again. It also seems to work best in a very cold environment. A room with very good air-conditioning will help, but even then, the CPU would run at 80 degrees Celsius. And you won't be in that kind of environment all the time.

 

I sold mine and given up fixing it to keep it cool. And I have to agree with you in most cases. Anyway I'm not too sure but I think that laptop feeds off a portion from battery during intense gaming where both CPU and GPU loads are high to compensate on limited power supplied by its PSU/adapter since its only rated 250 watts. So apart from decreasing GTX 1080's max wattage (instead of 180'ish watts it like 140 or 150 watts) that 250 watts was not enough to keep it under full load thus getting some power out from the battery. And judging the performance its like a GTX 1070 instead.

If you haven't undervolt your laptop now is a good time plus RBP 2017 works best with liquid metal it will help you with temps and also if you have acces to an external monitor, it will help the adapter by turning off display and saves a couple more watts for your CPU and GPU.

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I never knew about that. So that's why some games still struggle to run at 1080p even with that GTX 1080?

Undervolting was the first thing I did since I had a laptop which had heat issues as well. (Tough luck.) Undervolted the CPU to -100mV in XTU for a year, yet the the battery still get killed off. The heat issue didn't get even slightly better with undervolting. It's just how badly designed the cooling is.

I recently just started to create the voltage/power curve through Afterburner. It's going well so far but still as hot as a toaster. My goal is to keep the package temperature at a reasonable level so that I can put the new battery in instead of wasting my 100 dollars for nothing.

I wanted to try liquid metal but I've never applied one. How hard and safe is it? Anyone have a precautions and reviews around here regarding liquid metal performance on the RBP 2017?

 

My experience echoes everyone else here. I've got liquid metal in mine and I run a nice under-volt on the GPU. I've actually stopped under-volting the CPU as it has led to major stability issues. I've gone through two batteries and I will not put another in the machine, effectively making it a desktop computer. I always saw a bit of trickle power out of the battery during gaming sessions but it was never more than a few % per hour. Battery swelling is 100% caused by the heat, not the extra juice to compensate for the 250W power supply. None of these batteries should ever operate in the temperature range they are subjected to in a machine like this. Any additional heat generated in the battery from the steady, lower power draw is negligible compared to the baseline chassis heat soak.

There was a time not long ago at all that I had sworn off all Razer machines forever but all signs point to massive cooling improvements with the latest generation machines. Particularly the RBP with the additional cooling fans. The vapor chamber appears to be massively more efficient at removing heat. I'm holding out for the 17" Studio version when it drops this fall. Curious how they will fully power the 8 core i9 processor, given the 45W power limit, but I'm confident temps will be held in check.

 

Yeah, I doubt that it's the power draw from the battery that caused it. The whole laptop is really hot and would usually be above 65 degree Celsius as warned on the battery itself. Not sure what I would do with the battery that I just bought. Should've spend on liquid metal instead, but oh well.

May I know how you undervolt your GPU? I use the curve editor in Afterburner but I'm not sure if I did it right.

 

I'm still interested in doing screen swap from 4K to 120Hz 1080p. Mainly because 4K scaling is still freaking ugly on Windows and I hate those blurry texts.

Anyone had any experience doing screen swaps on RBP17 2017?

 

Hey man, I'm having the same issue that you had with your RBP, I'm now testing some modifications that i have make on my swell battery. I figure out the problem, the battery is not charged with a balanced circuit what makes the cell to be overcharging as they are not perfect in construction. Did you got the contact from someone specifically that we could get contact about this project problems? Many thanks!

 

Its not just the heat, the heat affects the battery in a bad way ofcourse. But the main issue is that they use really poor quality battery cells and a bad battery construction in general. Even their Razer Blade stealths without a dedicated GPU have bloating issues. The latest Blade 15 design from 2018 also starts to bloat for some users. I have undervolted and locked max clocks at 3.3ghz on my Blade 15. Hopefully that is enough to keep the battery from swelling up. CPU temps are at 80~85c under load in my unit.

 

Im going to try it in a month or so, were you successful with yours?

 

Noob question. Is $1250 for Razer Blade Pro with 1080 and 4k good price?

 

Depends on condition and this model has thermal (apparently hot overall due full fat 1080) and power delivery issue (250 watt ac adapter can’t keep the unit not discharging while on intensive usage like gaming, most Gtx 1080 laptops use 300watt+) , if you’re okay and can accept handle those things, I think it’s not bad since the price was like 4K or more bucks and you get nice 4K g sync screen, I personally like the keyboard and trackpad placement compared to current Blade Pro.

 

i see. Is it better overall than the new blade pro with 2080?

 

I would never go for this flawed machine ever no matter what the price is. They didnt sell a lot of these units (first year not even breaking the 1K mark). You cannot keep the battery in good condition, it runs hot, it runs slower than other 1080GTX machines and is just getting horribly outdated. You are better off with a 1060GTX laptop for a tad little more money.

 

so even the 2080 17 inch is bad?

 

They didn't sell it like other models ecaus it's because that was expensive unit and I don't think they produced also a lot, from their financial report I'm guessing you look from that, that was published in 2017 and pro gtx was introduced in late 2016. And keep in mind there was no maxq design at that time as usual they tried to fit full fat gtx1080 in such cassis, which are also rarely at that time, I believe only gigabyte had similar form factor unit, in ugly design. I remember comparing the performance with blade 1070maxq even cpu, 8750H performs better gpu performance is still bad, so no way 1060 can have better value, unless you're talking about 1k 1060 laptop. Blade pro is too big for me but if I'm on this category market, 1200 bucks is cheap, I think touch screen 4K gsync screen a lone already covered it.

 

No latest blade pro is overall better. But as I mentioned above I don't like personally keyboard placement that similar with other blade, that pro was keyboard was one of my favorite keyboard together with the trackpad, tried that at ifa Berlin. Lack of g sync is also downside but now the price is a lot cheaper than 2017 rmsp.

 

It can’t be stated enough how ****ty the 4K screen is for gaming on the RBP 1080. Input lag is horrendous and pixel response is almost as bad. I can take the 60hz just fine but the panel is just plain slow.

It looks amazing in windows for productivity tasks, but it sucks for any fast paced games.


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Yes you’re right, it’s similar with MBP16, laptops screen with great color accuracy are mostly bad on response time. However for shooting or competitive I wouldn’t use such panel personally, most open world titles that doesn’t need 200fps would look gorgeous with that 4K g sync, I rather play with g sync 4K 60fps Assasin Creed than 1080p blurry 144hz.

 

As of this time simply an unknown but they keep following the same patterns.

As of know the first batch of cases are being mentioned on reddit regarding issues with the Blade 15 2018 It is the same issues as all previous models. The dreaded sudden battery bloat. You would think they would switch manufacturers after 4 or 5 generations of Blade laptops with the same issues. But they dont. The 17 has the same ****ty batteries.

The Blade 17 2019 is the least likely to encounter this issue because it handles heat a tad better. But it is not just heat. It is also overall battery quality itself.

 

They repurposed the chassis for a 1060 version as well. They definitely tried.

The 1080 was a MaxQ also (it was lower clocked) and it was the launch of MaxQ. Too expensive? All Blades are expensive I think that is not a factor. People pay money for good products.

For 1400~1500 euro you can buy a Mag15 from XMG in germany. So up to 300 euro extra you get a base 2020 laptop with a 6core CPU.

 

Nope it wasn’t a maxq it’s full fat gtx1080 with anything downclocked, yes kind of Maxq, but back then no one know maxq architecture maybe nvidia already, 1060 was I think made for cheaper options from pro for gamers with its 120Hz FHD screen. Razer just tried to acrobat by putting all on that cassis on 1080 4K model, pretty similar with nowaday manufactures who tried to shrink down cassis.
Mag15 is seemly good and popular but xmg I never like their design and reputation here, prefer spending on a MacBook or stealth because the familiarity to me...which I just did Stealth was off 500 bucks so no brain to me since was on market and just sold my old 2016 one.

 

Geforce 1080MaxQ's where a thing, Alienware had them too in the AW15R3 and Asus in the Zephyrus.

https://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-1080-Max-Q-GPU-Benchmarks-and-Specs.224730.0.html

Razer just never honestly specified what they did with the 1080GTX in the Blade Pro 17. Probably they didnt get the Nvidia crtification regarding noise levels. THe noise levels of the Blade 17 2017 are way above the levels needed for MaxQ certification while the clockspeeds are just that of MaxQ levels.

This is a direct quote from notebookcheck regarding the 1080 performance in the Blade Pro 17 2017

"It thus surprised us even more that the Blade Pro falls behind other GTX 1080 laptops in the GPU benchmarks, sometimes by a margin of 10-20% – for no obvious reason. The overall performance tends to come in at the level of the GTX 1080 Max-Q, which hardly achieves better results than the substantially cheaper GTX 1070."It thus surprised us even more that the Blade Pro falls behind other GTX 1080 laptops in the GPU benchmarks, sometimes by a margin of 10-20% – for no obvious reason. The overall performance tends to come in at the level of the GTX 1080 Max-Q, which hardly achieves better results than the substantially cheaper GTX 1070.

 

I mentioned severally there’s no maxq design at that time maxq was firstly announced mid 2017 I believe, both models pro late 2016 and 2017 was earlier, so there are no maxq standardization since it wasn’t born yet.

 

The Blade 17 2017 was announced the 24th of April 2017. Just a month before and runs at the same speeds as the MaxQ 1080s and performs as such. So what does it matter if it has the tag MaxQ or not? I performed a solid 10~20% lower than any 1080GTX laptop at the time just like other MaxQ machines did.

I really dont get your point and why you always have to defend Razer. So many people pointed out so many of their flaws which cannot be rectified by us consumers. It isnt small stuff like bad thermal paste jobs or a crappy wifi card. But major design flaws.

 

I didn’t depend Razer I stay on my comment because gtx1080 on Blade pro isn’t maxq design. Maxq firstly used i think on MSI laptop forgot the model it was 1070maxq which meant to be gpu on thin light products. And it’s based also on my experience, unfortunately I’ve only their tablet since Blade I usually sell for upgrade. There’s nothing wrong with my unit, I posted also how it’s looks like after over 1,5 years gaming usage, pretty similar with day one except the dust. I’ll be loud once my unit goes defect, but after having tons their products nothing are flaws. I can also depen Macbook if I want, I’ve 2012 MBP that runs still fast on Catalina and windows 1909. If you need I can also take internal photo. All of them literally plugged on the wall, AC brick I put on carpet without any scary, though after recent posts it made me a bit scary honestly.
Edit: Bad thermal does any manufacturer, user usually repasting it for better thermal, but I didn’t I just reject it if thermal is high, since 2K machine imo shouldn’t have such needs, like I did on late 2016 Blade 14. WiFi card, which Model do you have? 2019 Intel one? On 14 killer wireless it was problems but not on Intel both on stealth 2019 and Blade 15 2018, maybe your network hates Intel wireless card.

 

MaxQ is nothing more than a full version GPU clocked back to meet a more ideal for mobile powercurve and you get the MaxQ certification when you also add in a noise limit. That is all what MaxQ is. Initially the first MaxQ gpu;s didnt even appear as MaxQ in the drivers even! THat is all there is too it. The Blade Pro 2017 is heavily clocked back just like a MaxQ but it runs loud (and probably the reason why it wasnt certified as MaxQ). It performs exactly the same as all other MaxQ 1080 laptops. So why does this matter?

Good for you that your unit still runs fine (which it should though to be honest, I mean it is about one year and a half old?) a lot of people run into issues and you and or me could be next with our machines. It is shameful that so many people need to service their machines after just about a year of use. It is shameful that Razer support is so bad. When it comes to peripherals about 80% failed within 2 years while all my other brands just live one and are discarded solely because I want something new. Razer is a trash company and this should be known to the general public. They have to be forced to take action.

I dont have wifi card issues, I am just point out examples.

Razer Blade 15 owners had to deal with faoling webcams (display cables), Battery bloat issues start to appear, the first batch plastic anchor points started to crack etc. This is unacceptable on any 1500+ euro machine. The display port and battery can easily be pointed out as weaknesses and flaws. Those are facts. The margins are razor thin (no pun intended). The chance that something goes wrong with one of those 2 parts is just too big.

I indeed have the 2019 version which turns 1 year old in April. Probably will repaste it the coming month, I dust it out every 2 months, I have it underclocked to 3.4ghz max, undervolted it and am worried everytime my battery starts to puff up because I game about 3 to 4 hours a day on it and I do my full time job on it. It is basically on 15 hours a day everyday. Have 1 small spot on my LCD of pressure damage for some reason so I have to replace my screen some point in time to cure my OCD.

 

Hi razer crew i have been eyeing the razer blade pro for a while now. recently saw a brand new offering for 1800 dollars is this a good deal or i should avoid this laptop like a plague. thanks in advance.

 

Is is the blade 17 2019 for that price? Its a low price for the specs. But it is unknown as of know if it suffers from the same issues as all the previous razer laptops do. But i would still avoid it. Their track record is horrendous and spareparts are extremely hard to come by of there is an issue. Also the batteries are still made by BYD and those are the main culprit for the battery issues in previous models.

 

Unfortunately it is the 2017 model with 7820HK and GTX 1080 it only has 512GB ssd i am hesitate on pulling the plug. It is really tempting since right now the 1060 version is still around 1800-2000 range,

 

Dont buy it, seriously. They sold less than 800 units in the first year only. A lot of users have them failing on them and needed multiple repairs for the battery swelling up in a short time span. I would steer clear from it with a wide circle and dont even look at it. Also you can get faster laptops from others brands that do have proper after sales service support.

 

Thank you for advice im gonna let this one go. The general response seems to be that this is a bad buy due to the problematic design. Would be a terrible buy since it would be out of warranty. I will probably wait for something better to go on sale.

 

Mine was awesome until the battery bloated. The second battery eventually bloated also. That was after adding liquid metal. The second bloat killed large sections of the keyboard.

Now it’s a desktop only machine with no battery installed. Since the machine used to pull more power than the power supply could support, it would occasionally drain the battery slightly. Without the battery installed, I’ve had a fair number of system lock ups due to what I can only assume is power delivery. I’ve massively under volted both the cpu and GPU and it runs really well now. Performance is right in between a laptop non maxq 1080 and a 1089 maxq. Temps are out at 72 degrees.

I run an external gsync 120 hz monitor and capping in game frame rates to around 115 helps a lot as well.

Fearful of all laptops now after the battery issues...


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Yea the battery issue and power draw problem are some of the most problem with these laptops. The price seems really tempting at nearly half the price of what they originally were. I guess there are just more problems with these machines to buy one. Too bad i really like the design and aesthetic of these machines guess cant spend all the money on looks alone.

 

Hi guys! It looks like many of us have already replaced the battery. Can you please give me a piece of advice what should I do to make the laptop work with the new battery?
After I installed a new battery, the system doesn’t see it or charge it, though it could work for some time without plugging the laptop in, so I suppose this is not an issue with the battery itself...
This is the second time I’m replacing the battery and before I had a similar issue, but somehow the laptop recognized it after a few random actions from my side (disconnecting the battery/deleting drivers/pushing Power button for 20 seconds etc.). But this time I’ve been rather unsuccessful so far... Your help is highly appreciated!

 

Hello friends of good taste,

how are you doing with your razer blade?

I have a special question, recently the Razer Blade Pro 17 2019 with the new 4K UHD 120HZ screen came on the market. I researched and noticed that the connector from the current 4K 60hz panel (LQ173D1JW33)
is the same 40pin eDP as in the new Razer Blade Pro 2019!
i am super satisfied with my Razer Blade 17 (7820, GTX1080, 4K 60hz), so i would like to upgrade to the new 4K 120HZ panel (AU Optronics B173ZAN03.3). Do you see a possibility here that the new display fits into my old Razer Blade Notebook and is working also? (Especially because the 120HZ Display has no GSYNC)

Thanks in advance

 

Good afternoon! Became the owner of RBP, can anyone help with Razer Blade Pro Early 2017 CPU & GPU Tweaks. I have a laptop without a battery, it turns off during games and downloads. I do not want to insert the battery, as I read that it deforms the case. In the discussion thread, the settings pictures were not saved, and I have no overclocking experience. Thanks.

 

I would recommend undervolting the CPU and GPU to reduce power consumption, this should alleviate any shutdown issues due to power throttling or heat.

Lipo batteries will swell overtime, this is just a normal part of their degradation.

You can use a needle to create a purge valve for the Lipo to leak trapped gasses from overtime, then it will never swell because it can’t!. I’m sure I will receive a lot of flak from saying this. But, I have dealt with lipo’s quite a bit over the years. And ive never experienced a problem from it.

 

thanks for the answer! I just wanted to ask how you can do this with a GPU. msi afterburner i can't understand, do you need to manually set the curve?

 

after a while the keys on the keyboard stopped working ... tell me, can you do something with this?

 

Tell me, is it possible to put a non-mechanical keyboard in that laptop? for example, from a laptop on 1060, membrane? Or, in general, which goes to a laptop for 15. On Ali, these are on sale.