[GUIDE] How to replace an LCD panel on a Clevo shell (pictures included)

Note: This was done to my Malibal Satori (Clevo P170EM). Yours may be slightly or totally different from mine.
(Please excuse the typos!)

I know many here have done this and probably many times, but there are a few and possibly some new members who will be intimidated by this process. Personally, this is the second time I've changed my LCD panel. It's a long story and a different topic fit for a different thread, but anyway this is the reason why I'm posting this guide --for the not-so-handy tinkerers.

Note that in this guide, I've used my P170EM from Malibal as the example. The number of screws or whatever might not be the same for other Clevo bodies, but the idea should generally be the same.

All you need to do this job are two things:
-Scotch tape (you'll see below why)
-Screw driver (small Phillips)

Steps:

1: Lean back the screen/lid as far back as you can. Remove the six rubber feet (square shaped) an place them on a piece of scotch tape, adhesive side facing up. This way, they don't lose their stickiness because of dirt or lint and will prevent you from losing them. Remove all 6 screws and place them on the same scotch tape for the same reason. Some like to work on a rubber mat, but for those who don't have one, use scotch tape.







2: Gently pry one corner with your fingertip on one hand and use your other hand's fingertips to sweep across. This will pop off the tabs one by one. Be careful not to break the tabs. I don't know how much a replacement frame will cost. At this point, don't worry about the fingerprints on the shiny surfaces of your laptop.





3: Remove all 8 screws on the lid's chassis that's holding the LCD panel. There should be 4 silver ones on each side. Place these screws on a piece of scotch tape the same way you did for the rubber feet and the black frame screws.



4: Borrow a piece of foam/protection from the packaging of your new LCD panel and place it over your keyboard. Gently flop the LCD panel over that foam.



5: Notice that the ribbon has an interference shield on one end and a sticky tab on the other. It should be stuck to the back of the LCD panel on both ends. This is to prevent the ribbon from being yanked out by accident and you losing video signal. Gently remove it from the back of the LCD panel. Since you do not want it to lose its stickiness, temporarily (and lightly) stick it on the RF shield's surface behind it. It's important so that you stick it back again later on the new LCD panel.





6: Once you've unstuck it, gently pull the connector back evenly from both side. Do this not by tugging on the ribbon but by pushing off from the connector itself. Be very gentle and don't use anything sharp to do this.



7: Prepare the new LCD by taking it out of the box and out of the plastic bag. Do not remove the front plastic cover yet and hold it only along the metal frame/edge. Place the new LCD panel on top of the foam on your keyboard and then unstick the packing tape that's holding the front plastic cover. Do not remove the front plastic cover just yet.



8: Reinsert the connectors by lining it up carefully and then gently tugging on the clear sticky tab. You will see that both side of the connectors have two tiny holes (female) which will line up to the two tiny bumps (male) on the ribbon. Once it's perfectly seated with no wiggle. Stick the clear sticky tab on the back of the new LCD panel and the ribbon with the sticky RF shield. Make sure that the ribbon is perfectly parallel with the screen so that when you place the LCD, it won't unstick.



9: Push it up in place and put the 8 silver screws back, 4 on each side. Now you can remove the front plastic cover your new LCD panel came with.



10: In this last step, you do everything in reverse starting from when you removed the black, shiny frame. When you pop in the tabs, make sure you push from the front and the back of the lid gently until you hear a click. You sweep slowly across each side. It really helps to know where the tabs are so you can click them in one by one. Put all 6 black screws back in and wipe your frame now, if you want to. Once it's clean and fingerprint-free, put the 6 rubber feet back. You're done.

TIPS: It's safest doing a screen replacement by disconnecting the laptop from the power brick first and removing the battery. There should be no problem if you leave the battery in, but don't leave it to chance. Turn it on and test it out. Adjust the color profile if you have to and run dead pixel tests.

Thank you, Malibal, for allowing me to replace my LCD panel twice even due to minor issues and for allowing me to add the $60 perfect pixel warranty much later after I purchased. The new screen has zero dead pixels and it's absolutely perfect.

(If you want to know what happened with my original glossy LCD panel and the glossy replacement before I switched to this new matte LCD panel, just PM me.)

 

Thanks, please make this sticky

 

sticky! this is very well written and has great easy to follow pictures! sean i am glad you finally got your perfect screen

 

Thanks! I just wanted to help others here who might have to go through this for whatever reason.

Kevin, yeah I'm so happy. Malibal really hooked me up. Unfortunately, they lost a lot of money in the process thanks to USPS or whoever for breaking the other screen. I hope this one I'm sending back doesn't get damaged since it's not at all broken, just dim for a glossy screen.

 

If you need to gently pull the bezel from both sides put a piece of paper between the screen and your fingers. That way you don't have to clean it afterwards. My tip of the day!

 

This is a good tip for those who consider themselves clumsy!

I pried mine from the outside and it's possible to do it without ever touching the screen. For those who want to take the extra precaution, Scott's tip would work.

 

I always use an ID card or something similar to unhook the clips. Just push it in one of the corners and slid it along, twisting slightly if needed.

The one time I tried using my fingers was on an Alienware machine and the bezel snapped (which was ridiculous because I was being very careful. Luckily that machine ended up being replaced for a new one not long after).

 

Very nice

Loved it

 

To avoid making a new thread, does anybody know where you can buy a new screen (upgrade) for the P150EM.

 

Call Mythologic. I could be wrong, but I think they will sell you an LCD panel.

 

Great write-up! I surely learned from it, sticky worthy indeed!

 

Amazon
Ebay

just find the correct name of the screen (via your reseller or something) to know what you need to search for

 

Good post, now I can use these pictures to remove the glossy bezel one day only when I man up enough to do it.

 

Thanks, guys. Just trying to give a little back with what I can to the forums that has helped me a lot.

 

Thanks for this thread. It has helped me a lot with my brand new Sager where after 2 weeks the LCD started flickering.

What is the rubber mucilage that I can use for the rubberized bump-ons that cover the screws when I re-assembled the plastic panels?

Thanks.

 

Thank you for this guide. It was really helpful getting to my LCD cable, which was loose.

 

The fix did not last long and the flickering has gotten worse now. Did a cable re-seat and it fixes it but only temporarily. I've re-seated several times but now the last time, the cable has become soft due to repeated re-seating and the gold plate terminal by the end of the cable appears to be falling apart now.

Is there a tutorial on how to access and replace the LCD Flat cable itself? The one with the sticky tape on it? I believe mine got damaged and needs replacement. My Sager is a NP9150 and I need to buy a new one. Anyone here know where I can get this part? Is there a part number for this?

Please I need help!

 

Bump!

Flat cable on my NP9150 also got damaged, i'd appreciate any pointer for replacement.

 

Anyone please be kind enough to make a tutorial or video on how to replace the LCD flat cable? I believe mine is damaged. Help please?

 

I'm waiting for the replacement cable to arrive, and i was told by nice folks from Mythlogic that they would also provide advice how to do the works since service manual does not cover this.

I will post a detailed walkthrough when I replace the cable.

 

Yes please that would a BIG help for those of us whose flat LCD connector is damaged and needs replacement.

I just hope that the CPU and GPU assembly remains intact and untouched during the process.

 

Why is this not sticky yet . Well done on this OP.

 

Where can I find the detailed walkthrough to replace the cable?

I'm eagerly awaiting this so others and I can replace a defective LCD cable for the P150EM model.

 

The replacement LCD cable for my Sager NP9150 that I purchased a few months ago from xoticpc finally arrived and I had the local expert service shop replace it. Everything went well will the replacement but sad to say that still no video on the LCD nor on the HDMI port appears. I was told by the technician that this could be a motherboard or video card problem but they could not test it any further since they do not have those spare parts available. This is pretty annoying and disappointing so I want to send the unit back to xoticpc for a complete and reliable repair or replacement. I feel like I was sold a "lemon" for a supposedly brand new laptop. I am not at all happy with my experience from the first week the unit arrived from xoticpc as it had started to show signs of flickering and now its a dead screen altogether!

 

This needs to be stickied.

 

Over a year ago I said that XD

 

Hopefully ManilaByNight can follow up and let us know how his computer is doing.

 

That would be cool. I really like follow ups.

 

Yep, I read the entire thread and saw you did that.

MODS: Sticky this please...

 

I bought the glossy version of of my current screen to replace the matte one.

OMG it is much clearer than the matte screen. I feel like I have a new machine.