[SOLVED] Evoc Clevo P870KM1-G No longer boots if using all 4 memory Slots

Gentle heat and pressure to restore the shape without the IHS on but its delicate and risky work.

 

I don't have any safe heat source, so before doing anything to the current CPU I have to find any CPU just to test if it's the problem, I have to keep at least what I have now without anymore damages.
Thank you for your kind support,

 

The RAM brand and model:

 

Did it burn? You said you used HyperX, but it looks like ValueRAM with Micron chips which are EOL and not in production anymore in their factory. I checked their Enterprise website for more info. Get the higher speeds 2667/3000MHz because 2133Mhz and 2400Mhz is slowly phased out and CL timings are being written to higher frequency DRAM chips that can backtrack to 2400MHz/2133MHz easily.
If you're unsure get the Samsung DDR4 SODIMM that Papusan or Phoenix use in their machines. It has HyperX like R/W bandwidth eventhough it has higher CL (17) like Micron/SK Hynix.

 

All those modules pulled out from Phoenix MSI GT73 that I bought few months ago, they are special request from him , HID collected 4x16GB identical rams for him. Unfortunately I don't have any other 4 modules to test the compatibility of memory with the laptop, all what I know they all were working fine for a period.

I tried to mix between those and other 2x8GB g.Skill 3000 running at @2400 (default) and the same issue, I can use all kind of rams in only 2 slots, other than that no boots. I don't think the problem with the rams modules, it will be between the CPU or the mobo, it's not even the BIOS coz I already tried different BIOS.

 

Try single 8GB Gskill 3000 RAM stick and see it boots. If it does, add another one and do some testing such as CPU stress test or RAM test and it passes then put the same two sticks in the next 2 slots underneath the keyboard and repeat the same procedure.

 

Okay, I'll try that once I'm home, will update results.

 

A good hair dryer can be pretty adjustable and not silly expensive.

 

Problem solved

3 things I found the reason behind this problem:
1- The broken pin seems to be stuck somewhere somehow inside the socket (I don't know where it was exactly) , I used an air blower and saw it fly out.
2- I found the nail protector used to cover the areas around the cpu pcb, I found it leaked somehow and was covering about 4~6 pins, I used magnifying glass to discover this coz it's very transparent. Cleaned by alcohol.
3- The bend cpu corner, without heat, I did some pressure with my fingers until it came straight.

Once I finished, and everything in place including the 4x16GB, turned on and from the 1st time booting with no issues at all, now I'm doing some stress testing just to make sure everything is fine.

Thank you everyone, really appreciate your kind support, I can't fix this without your guidance and advice.
@Meaker@Sager @Falkentyne @Vasudev @Mr. Fox @Danishblunt @Papusan @Khenglish

 

I see, this can actually be useful when people want to use nail polisher to prevent LM flowing around, yet have to be careful around the slot. So when suggesting nail polisher warn them about that this could happen.

 

Yes you are right, many are using this nail polisher and they don't know that could happen. Now we all know, We have to warn everyone in different threads.

 

Use a small amount and a hair dryer in future.

 

Will do sir, Thank you.

 

Between this...

...and the bent CPU PCB, it's a wonder it was even booting with two sticks of RAM.

I am really glad you were able to blow out that broken pin and it did not cause more of a problem from shorting out something critical. That could have been disastrous. It is fortunate that the broken pin seems to have been an unused one as well.

I love stories with a happy ending. Congratulations, brother.

I have seen several CPUs with a warped PCB. It's less common in laptops because the heat sink pressure is so poor, but it could happen if you went overboard using a really thick shim on top of the IHS. But, you can easily bend a CPU PCB in a desktop by going nuts with over-tightening the heat sink. That is one reason the screws are spring-loaded. SKL, KBL and CFL processor PCBs are thinner than ever and even easier to bend. After delidding they are weaker because the original rubber seal attaching the IHS lends a bit of structural integrity to the package.

 

I have notice that the GPU temps is higher than usual, before with full load was 77c, now it's a 82~84c and the 2 fan's speed are near maximum. I did repast the GPU 2 times with new thermal pads (Using Mr. Fox guide), is this normal? are the 4 memory modules working dual channel effecting the GPU temps, or there is something wrong and I need to check it out? I don't like to lose another 1080 GPU.

 

Thank you Brother Fox, I really appreciate your kindness and valuable information you are providing to me and all NBR members, you and all our senior members are doing a great job helping many users around the glob.
Each time I decide to go away, I don't know why I keep get back to Clevo, it seems coz I like the challenges using it and coz of this wonderful community and you guys.

 

I doubt the memory would affect the GPU temperature, but you could remove one channel of memory and test again to confirm if the temps change or not.

You can likely get the temps down by undervolting.

You're welcome, brother.

 

@Dr. AMK - here is this if you need it.

 

With using this great guide, my temps went down from ~86c to 72~75 @0.925 with the same load, is that mean my VC heatsink has no contact/bend issues and my repasting is fine?

 

Yes, your paste job is probably fine.

It is possible the vapor chamber does not fit correctly. I know of a couple of folks that replaced theirs 2 or 3 times before they found one that fits well. The same has been true of CPU heathsinks. Clevo is a heat sink lottery sometimes.

 

Part of the reason I liked the 4xxx series replacement JHS from bitspower is that it contacts the whole substrate around the core rather than just a ring. It helps even out the pressure.

 

Yes bitspower one is better, but last time I tried using it I found myself doing lapping for 2+ hours then I got the best result ever from it. The one I use now you can use it out of the box.

 

Do you have multimeter I guess there's some line in pbc already been cut by accident

 

And you are the lucky one because I got p870km's esm do you know about soldering if you have the basic electric knowledge we can fix it very quick

 

@52571abc

No, I don't have, but I can buy one.

What do you mean about "esm"? I have basic knowledge but for now everything seems to be fine and no need to do any risky things. I'm using your BIOS for few days testing, OC, undervolt and gaming, nice and clean. I'm wating for the i9 xxxx, otherwise maybe I'll buy 8xxx to test my KM1 with it.
But if you recommend something please let me know about it and I'll try to do it.

We needs you to add more options to the BIOS so we can do more tuning.

 

Schematic you can learn a lot of electrical knowledge on it like you need to change some jump wire when you replace GTX 1060 to 1070 on the clevo mxm card

 

Clear now. Let me know what you want me to do.

 

I did have to grind the IHS to fit the larger die but the contact is very good.

 

@Dr. AMK Good news to hear. How come there was a coat of nail polish? I suppose you had it delidded and LM'ed right?

 

Yes, the nail polish was my mistake when I did delidded and repaast with LM again, it seems that the nail polish leaked when it's still liquid and I didn't see it. I used to use Kapton tapes instead of that, 1st time to use it. I didn't expect all of that to happen.
Now all nail polish removed and replaced it with Kapton tapes.

 

It's a bit easier to track the tape, that's for sure