[SUCCESS] P377SM-A 4K Display Upgrade

So I'm going to try this upgrade for our P377sma/ p375sma laptop.

Physically, it is not the same panel, But With some milling, it gonna fit.
About this, i have to wait my panel to arrive, got some ideas in mind how to fit it in our p37x body...

Actual parameters:
LP173WF2 50PIN==EDP Cable== 15x2 EDP MB

TEST:
B173ZAN01.0 40PIN==Mod EDP==15x2 EDP MB

If we read the datasheet of both display we can see it might be compatible with some little Mod:

LG FHD:


AUO UHD:


==> Just a story of joining some "Gound" PINs & "Logic Input Power"
Hopefully, the AUO screen has 2 optional PINS inexistent in Lg display, so not a problem.

I'm waiting the answer of a Chinese who tell me he can build the cable, Just waiting and hope he will accept for a little quantities...
Otherwize, between actual P377 edp cable and W230SS wqhd cable, i will create this connection because qhd cable from w230ss is 40pin from display and p377 edp is 15x2 (30) pin to Motherboard.

The objective of this mod EDP is to imitate the P377sma edp cable with 40 pins instead of 50.

My fears is Actual P377sma edp output 5V and actual AUO UHD is MAx 3.3V. Let's hope this is adjusted automatically.
My other fear is that the panel where i will buy it seem not a legit one.. both Ebay or Taobao are not true AUO panel...So i hope i receive a working unit.


If you got questions or Adjust/refute my theory or to suggest other ways, Lets share our imagination to make it work




UPDATE: Working Good



-Setting module at 3.35V and using good connectic, i fix my module instead of the DVD burner. We could keep the dvd burner but i need to have something more little. i tried a little module 5v to 3.3V but it was so warm after a few minute it start to flash black screen. It might work to instal it behind the screen connected with a large heatsink. I will try others options another time.

-To avoid black screen, fix some tape in the 4 'screws zone' of the screen: it will avoid metal ground contact between display and laptop.

I decided personally to not make a tutorial to share with anyone because it is easy to screw the laptop or the display: you have to cut the bottom screw zone of the screen, you have to cut some parts of the top case of the screen, and so on..
But it is fully working, 3 days no more black screen, flickering. To avoid ghost behind dark grey, you have to set light at max 50%. These ghosts picture are temporary, i might have 'burn" this screen while i was using it at 5V i guess.

I share my connectic plans for people who are interested. If you are interested to mod your laptop with 4k, i will explain it by private message but i don't recommend it since 60Hz is really annoying for game, you can play at 4k with single gtx980m at medium/high settings without filters, you will have 60fps.
Battery no last too long. i use 150% scaling when a friend prefer 200% instead. Don't forget in nvidia panel to set 8bpc.

-The Clevo hot keys FN+F8/F9 will not work even with this astuce. To allow brightness control from windows tools or hotkey software, you have to create a reg key at:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\
Search for Nvidia then add a reg_dword EnableBrightnessControl with a value of 1
Should be folder: {63826910-73EC-4997-9DF8-C8610E825AD8}
If you have SLI, for new windows maj, this key need to be ad in other folder not only 0000.

Restart then you can control brightness and control center.

Connectic schemas:

 

Keeping a lookout on this! Good Luck!

 

sweet can't wait to see how this works out!

 

If the voltage is not adjusted; it's only a little over absolute maximum and a single, high-watt resistor can take care of that eventuality. The AUO takes ~2.75W/3.3V to drive the lcd, the LG 5.5W/5V. Anything like these will do nicely; insert it between the joined/split vcc wires, that way you only need a single, large resistor instead of four smaller ones. Considering they cost ~$2, it makes sense to try with the resistor first and remove it if the image is intermittent/blinking or completely black (if the mb does auto-adjust voltage, then the resistor will drive it under Vmin).

There's a chance you'll receive a Chi Mei Innolux instead: 17.3" 4k eDP panels.

Insist on the AUO before ordering, the price is high enough. Actually a bit too expensive, though according to Prema a high percentage of the run didn't pass quality checks, so that would inflate the price of those that did pass. Once they have the production under control, expect the price to drop somewhat.

Also, glory to the brave !!!

 

Update:
about Edp cable: the first seller didn't answer back ( as it was not for a large quantity i guess). Another one is ok. I'm waiting is answer about edp mod.

Some information i found useful:
AUO connectic is: 20455 40Pin
i guess Mb clevo connectic is: NX1001-2X15SMS ( so the cable need to be: JOINT TECH A1001H-2X15P)

I bought my panel in taobao for 75$...lol and waiting shipping price with agent...first time using an agent as sellor didnt give any QQ email.
For people who don't know, actually, from ebay and taobao, it is all same innolux display told by T456
I have on my old list a chinese who can sell me the original AUO panel but it was 300$. He told me price will reduce when demands will grew up.

 

Good luck on getting everything set up for this. Take some pictures and show us how the progress is going when you are able to get the parts set up.

 

Update:
-4k display received brand is AUO
-wqhd w230ss cable received, it also has 30pin edp motherboard connector like p37xSmA.
Have to wait till resistor arrive to mod cable if needed and test

 

Looking forward to hearing about your progress on this! This would be a really interesting mod for all those P377SM-A owners which should be able to play at 4K with 980M SLI but can't really do so because of the full HD Screen!

 

Glad to inform its working
it's still not finish but here a beta view

To manage 3.3V instead of 5V i used lvds port So no needed any resistor as i still dont know if edp auto adjust or not voltage.

 

That's awesome to hear it worked. Can't wait to hear your thoughts when it is done.

 

it worked but in the second step of installing screen inside and so one, i boot another time then each 2, 5 or 10 seconds, it go black then go back normal immediately. I dont know if the screen cable disconnect a bit while i close the laptop, or lvds 3.3V is not enaught for the screen. I will stop working on it and waiting my resistor so i can use edp Vcc power instead.

Also it take me a whole afternoon to create the cable.. when im sure everything works good, i will give a tutorial and schema for DIY the cable and fixing the screen on the panel as i also had to cut a bit the barbone and still not finish.

Screen is much better color are deep and i enjoyed( even with the screen 'bug' ) a 4k youtube video clips. But 60Hz... i hope i can overclock much more

 

sweet man I can't wait to see more...you will have to include how you got all the parts to do this

 

Here some updates i forget to share:

-Hotkey brightness doesnt work, just had to create a brigntnessColor in regedit. So brightness can be adjust with windows.
-This is funny, after testing a game (gta5) screen stop bugging while gaming and even back in windows. So it is just a problem of power

Apparently i dont understand why p870dm for screen use 3.3V 2A and p377sma give also 3.3v 2A and seem not enaught.

 

Heya. Pretty interesting thread thus far and post. Similar to what I want to do. I bought the 4K AUO panel for my P870DM (B173ZAN01.0) hoping to upgrade to 4K but my current is just FHD 1080p and G-sync. Only issue is that the G-sync model I have has a 30 pin EDP port while the 4K panel I bought is 40 pin EDP. Do you know if there's a converter cable I can buy that would work or know if there's a modder out there who would/could create the edp converter (30 pin female to 40 pin male) out there? Basically, something like this I found on ebay but guaranteed to work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221335173883

Thanks!

 

Find a reseller to buy the cable. Tell them you have p870dm and 4k auo screen. Your laptop is made for 4k so no need to mod anything, cable allready exist. But you will have to totally unmount the laptop to connect new edp.

 

Thanks and way ahead of ya'! ;-) Found a reseller and am already in conversation with them at this very moment (providing reference images and pin specifics atm). So will let you know once it's all ready. And by unmount do you mean remove the FHD panel or something else? I've done that in the past to just to see the the inner components and how it should/could be done. Or do you mean complete dis-assembly?

 

Yes you will have to disassemble totaly the laptop. But it is easy, just take your time and make sure when you remove parts, no cable still fixed. When you remove a part, take it of slowly then you can feel if a screw or cable is still fix you can reach p870dm thread and ask info with people who allready unmount it.

 

Holy crap. I'm definitely doing this, once I get the funds for the panel. As for the power issue, I'd say just tap it off the PSU with a voltage regulator or buck converter. Major props man!

 

Update:

Thanks to t456 and Khenglish! Now i plug some missing Ground Pin from AUO screen but present in edp Mb, 4 pins.
And result: it's working! The panel drive actually at 1.01V i tried 2 and 3 vcc from edp Mb but same result: 1-1.1V, often stable at 1.01V.
No artefact or flashing black. The panel for 30 mn with 4k youtube and in gta5 didnt bug anytime even with a so low voltage. i might be lucky or idk.. but im waiting little resistor to test them also.

Next step will be incorporate the panel inside the barebone, i'm trying to find the easiest solution but because of space, you wil have to cut some pieces inside the back panel of the laptop.

We can confirm, 4k Is compatible with p375smA And p377sma

 

Just to clarify. Did you actually have to build the cable, or did you just buy a wqhd w230ss cable and modify it with a resistor?

 

Little update, i didnt test voltage between ground and vcc..but between the resistor..used the wrong pin

i buy a w230ss cable, completely unmout each Pin in mb side and adjust it with my schema will share everything later. But i had to add pin from another cable because it wasnt enaugh and the resistor as well.

 

UPDATE:

-With one resistor ( 1% 5W 1.6ohm) give +-4.0V: flickering 1time per minute or nothing for 20-30minutes, depends idk
-If i put in serie 2 resistor ( same) i got 3.5V but computer just beep 2times
-If i put in parallel 2 resistor, i got 4.6V with more flickering very often.
-If i put Vcc from lvds and Ground from edp, i got 3.5V but flickering often 2-3times per minute.


About Fixing screen inside panel, i have some trouble because i can only cut metal plastic... but making holes for screws...omg it is a pain. my tool can't make easely holes so i just fix the screen from top. And because of the driver of the display is sub, it is not easy to close the panel, i succeeded by forcing but i got symptoms of pressure, so i think i will cut it to create more space or i will find a solution.

 

About overclocking.... 64Hz Max

 

Have an update: Wasn't able to get a custom cord made for my clevo p870dm-g 4K upgrade from the initial site/people I was in touch with. Ended up disassembling my laptop and putting it back together to see t he edp connection and sent the sales person various images of everything at request.

To no avail since they refused to make a cable unless I had images of the 4k screen working, which is kind of weird since the reason I contacted them was to build a cord that would allow me finally install it. . I even showed/provided video clips, teardowns, screen model numbers and so on and so forth in addition to my own photos but meh.

In the end it COULD make for an interesting thread if I provided the photos I took to show how to remove the screen frame and screen for others aiming to do the same thing I am.

So on and so...I did luck out in the end. I was able to talk to Eurocom about the cable and at first they were pretty unmoving about selling me a lone EDP cable since I already have the 4K screen and they only sell complete kits (screen, edp cable, etc) but they sold it to me and it'll ship on Monday (while not cheap, still not as much as buying the full upgrade kit). But once I have the cable and am able to install it all the upgrades to my p870dm-g will be FINALLY complete (besides storage which isn't a huge priority at the moment).

 

I think the screen might be current starved with the resistor in line with vcc. How many amps is the screen supposed to draw? With a 1.6ohm resistor inline with VCC, you're limiting the max current draw to 3.125 amps assuming the screen has no input resistance, which can't be the case (that would lower it even further). Have you been measuring the voltage drop while the screen is powered up? Maybe the laptop can't supply enough power to the screen. . . . I'd try maybe powering it off of an external variable regulator, to see if you can solve the flicker issue, and then you can go from there.

 

Yes, a rheostat would help find the resistor value that produces the best results. Can't use it as a permanent solution since it's probably too large to fit inside the laptop. They're usually pretty expensive, though, but the 5W rating can be had for less; 5W rheostat for ~$15 (opt for the 10 Ohm version, just to be sure).

 

Here data screen info about power.

Actually i tried both vcc from lvds and vcc from edp. Both gave me 5V, lvds in schematic should be 3.3v 2A and edp 5v 3A. Maybe because i keep ground from edp.

With this both situation, i didnt have any black screen but there is weird things sometimes appearing on the screen: like i can barely see my background while im launching a game for a few seconds. Or before i shut down the laptop on the blue background i can also barely see my desktop but at close views. It also appear on the corner right 2 'death pixel':when black color they appear white.
And i also got some 'line refresh' horizontal.


i will try 2 convertor:
-one who simply convert 5v into 3.3v
-another one who convert 5v with my choice but keep 2A or 3A.

I think the problem is linked to voltage too high ( in datasheet max should be 3.6v) because i power it direclty from edp: in datasheet it is written: edp output 5v 3A.

If this is not the problem then i have maybe a broken screen or software causing these flickering. But these flickering are very discreet.

 

I dont understand how from 5v 3A i only got output of .89A?
But i adjust it at 3.45V
i tried to adjust current in both sense but Amp dont change stay at 0.89.. someone know why or how i can keep at least 2A ?

 

Here a picture of the converter im using

 

The 3A is the maximum current, not a continuous one. If a panel doesn't request/need more power then it will consume less than is at its disposal.

Mind that the '3A' references the backlight power (plvdd), not power to the lcd leds themselves. The backlight is the real power hog of an lcd, using three to four times as much as the rgb leds that make up the picture (plus the control circuit). Interestingly, the 3D eDP option has 5V*3A=15W available, yet the LVDS type only 3.3V*2A=6.6W, which is 1.9W less than the 1080p lvds ( N173HGE-L11) needs at maximum brightness. So that's 1/5th underpowered, which explains why this 300 cd/m2 panel was measured at a mere 254 cd/m2 on nbc when ran from the P377SM-A while other systems showed a solid ~300, as it should.

 

Auo b173zan01.0 in datasheet is wrotten 14Watt and my edp is 15W so it should be fine no?

i also notice when i was measuring the current, it was keeping at 0.89 but for some resons i dont know, it was not keeping stable, so after 1minute or more less, it can be to .92 and i evwn see lowered to 0.74 when it was reaching the 0.7x, i notice flickering and less than 0.74 got black screen.

When i played with voltage, less than 3.1V, i had flickering then black screen.

So my panel is 'broken' or my laptop dont give enaugh current?

 

When you're saying you're playing with voltage, do you mean by changing the inline resistance value of the resistor on VCC?

I'm telling you, that's not a good way to do it. When the screen needs more power it's input resistance will change, which will change the output voltage of the voltage divider you're essentially making with the resistor inline with VCC. So when the screen needs more current, you might actually be causing VCC to drop to an unacceptable level with that inline resistor.

You really should be testing it with a linear regulator first. So that way you can set a variable constant voltage. Use something like a LM350T and power it from either the PSU input or a bench supply. Use that to adjust the output voltage between 3-5V and see what works. http://www.newark.com/fairchild-semiconductor/lm350t/adjustable-linear-regulator-1/dp/58K8940

 

Update:
I still used a little external Module, connected from Vcc motherboard EDP 5V, to output 3.315V. If i measure from vcc output and a piece of metal in barebone, it mesure 3.18V. it also output btw 0.72-0.92A depending from laptop. With this module, as i don't have more than 6V, i can't decide how much current to output. I also had to protect the metal around the screen frame because it was causing interference=black screen popping up. In desktop mode for 2 days, maximum 2-3 black screen noticed. in game, it's a bit more complex, some times i got flickering but to stop them, i have to push to create a pression in the connector of the edp screen himself. Hazard or not, it seem to work till now.

Also, i notice if i open a pdf in center with text in black. After That, i open paint with a dark grey, i can barely see a close range ''shadow'' of my pdf. Same thing can happening with nbr forum. Someone know why this situation? and it can stay for long time, even after watching a clip on youtube but it's less.

 

I let 10mn my desktop and here with a grey dark:

 

UPDATE: Completed the screen upgrade and finally finished the picture guide albeit some edits and references I intend to make/add later. Here's a link to the thread/tutorial here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...p870dm-g-from-fhd-to-4k-picture-guide.787821/

 

Nice Job!

 

Updated text in first page.

 

Probably getting ready to do this soon . . . just want to make some clarifications.

Am I correct in understanding that you used a WQHD cable from a w230ss and spliced it to the p377sm-a EDP cable? So the LCD connector (40pin) from the w230ss cable was used with the motherboard side (30pin) of the p377sm edp cable.?

If so which part number for the w230ss cable did you use? 6-43-W23S1-010-K or 6-43-W23S1-020-k?

Also, doesn't 4k at 60fps require 4 display port lanes?

I'm looking at the schematics for the w230ss and the p377sm-a. The 30 pin motherboard epd connector on the p377sm-a only seems to have 3 edp lanes while the 30 pin motherboard connector on the w230ss has 4 edp lanes. How did you work around this?

I'm probably missing something pretty basic here lol.

EDIT:

Ohh, I think I figured out part of it. Lane #3 is listed as the EDP CLK in the p377sm-a motherboard schematic . . . ok.

DOUBLE EDIT:

So it seems the edp sockets on the motherboard for the w230ss and p377sm-a are identical. So did you simply just rearrange the pins in the w230ss cable?

 

Yes, precisely; they're erroneously labeled on the 3D-capable systems. That was also the clue 4k ought to work; these 3D eDP panels are 4-lane (LP173WF2-TPA1 and LP173WF2-TPB2), so it was a safe bet that the schematics were in error.

You can order either W230SS/SD cable, it doesn't matter which as long as it's not the 1080p/fhd cable. The qhd even has a few more pins on the motherboard-side than the wqhd version due to higher power demand (these are for voltage and ground). For this mod that is irrelevant, though, considering that it's only its lcd-side you're interested in.

 

Cool stuff. Now to just source the parts.

 

Sorry for the double post.

It looks to me from the schematics, that PLVDD can be either 3.3V or 5V and is generated by the same circuit. You can switch the voltage on PLVDD from 3.3 to 5V by floating or grounding PLVDD_SEL (pin 25) on the EPD connector on the motherboard.

According to the 4k screen's data sheet, the screen only draws 2.3 watts at 3.3v, while the backlight draws 10 watts and is powered by a different rail.

The 2amps delivered by PLVDD when working in EDP mode should be plenty.

I think grounding pin 25 on the EDP connector will solve the 5v power problem.

I just bought a w230ss video cable, and probably will be ordering a screen next week. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Yes, i simply disconnect all pin then put them back in a good way to respect motherboad Pin. its same cable
i used a driver for ground and vdd to output 3.3V.

An easy solution is to take ground and vdd from lvds so it output 3.3v. Since i destroy my lvds cable, i couldnt succeed to have back 3.3v. i tried from mb data to rearrange on lvds port... always got 5v. I m sure you right, lvds or edp port has a pin to plug or not to out put 3.3 or 5v.

Also i understand why we cant overclock display...on datasheet from i7 cpu i read last time it support 4k but only at 60Hz hopelessly.

Till now, screen is always good, i manage to avoid ghost with 1mn screen shutdown if not used. Never had again a flickering or black flashing after tape arround display to avoid contact with ground.

Still waiting sli 980m to test or hopefully a 1080m compatible with our laptop..

 

Cool stuff. What gpu setup do you currently have? How's performance in games?

I've read elsewhere of people having issues with 4K refresh rates where upon further investigation the issue seemed to be cpu bound. Kinda strange. I always assumed it was due to the fact that 4k displays don't have much OC headroom due to the higher frequency signals they use.

Can you elaborate a bit on the ghosting issue? What's going on exactly?

 

i have 1 980m. i tried with gta5 and farcry. good immersion but need sli and i miss a bit 120Hz honestly. its hard to come back to 60hz...but at least with Vsync is allright.
here gta5 gameplay in 4k

Yep, i feel some 'bug' ( video stop for a moment, like less than half a second )only with some 4k 60fps clip on youtube. But never had this issue on gaming. i could lowered ( in numbers not in timing) these bugs with overclocking. but i always failed my overclock (bsod instable). If we reach 4ghz constant, will not happen.

Ghost issue apparently is common with ips screen. lets say mine was bad quality.. paid 75$ on taobao. So if i let my desktop for more than 5mn or if i study in a pdf, i can notice the text or my desktop screen in a dark grey color. This situation has no limit, higher brightness and longer= deeper will be the ghost in dark grey. Even if you shutdown the laptop for 5 days, once you start it and look into a dark grey color, you will notice the ghost. BUT hopfully if i play or if i watch a youtube clip, for 3mn, it disappear. Another ghost image will appear if i keep again another 'freezing time' more than 5mn...i will never know if this is because i used once 5v for weeks or becasue screen quality was not the best.

EDIT: important to mention is that since this display is installed, i lost 16% of my battery life ) i was at 2-3% before 4k mod.... i was able to keep 2h, now i can dream about, max 1h30.

 

I just got my panel - everything looks good. However rjtech sent me the w230st cable instead of the w230ss cable. So 30 pins instead of 40. I think I might be able to use the 40 pin lvds cable currently attached to my stock panel and splice it to the motherboard end of the w230st cable.

Gonna take things apart and see what's what. I'll try to keep things fairly documented and keep you guys posted.

 

would be awesome if someone made a video on how to do this......I have a P377sm-a with 980m SLI I would LOVE to try out 4K on this, right now 1080P with 980m SLI is over skill at least for me....thanks guyys

 

Quick update. While the LVDS connector on the LCD side is the correct connector type, there are many NC pins that the EDP doesn't have. This means I'll need to run some extra cables and solder them to the pads on the panel itself. If all goes well, I might have it fired up by tomorrow.

And actually, I took another closer look at the schematic. In order for PLVDD to be set to 3.3V, PLVDD_SEL (pin 25 on the mb connector) needs to be high - not grounded like I previously said - (system 15v should be fine).

 

If you need spare parts just let us know

Gesendet von meinem SM-G935F mit Tapatalk

 

So there's a minor snag.

First of all I can confirm, pulling pin 25 high definitely sets PLVDD to 3.3v.

I have everything pinned out and connected. Issue is that the 4k panel won't turn on. My guess this is most likely due to either the 4 extra wires I had to solder onto the back of the edp socket on the panel not having a good connection (those pads are super fine pitch), or the fact that my displayport lanes are no longer twisted pairs.

So if you're going to do this mod, make sure you use a 40 pin connector already wired for edp. A 40pin connector wired for LVDS will need significant rework, and from this experience isn't worth it.

@clevo-extreme

I actually just bought another w230ss edp cable from a uk vendor (not gonna bother with rjtech again on this one) like 5 minutes before I checked this thread lol. If I end up needing something else though, I'll reach out.

 

The PLVDD switch is excellent news, saving the trickiest part of the mod .

Just to be sure;

And remember that since we just need the cable's lcd-side (which is fairly generic, unlike the mb end), so any 40-pin, 4-lane eDP cable is good. If the SS/SD's are hard to find then look for other 3k/4k laptops and check their display's connector specifications matches that of the B173ZAN01.0's. Or reverse the lookup; search cheap, used display cables and check which specific lcd it was meant for by looking up the laptop model on nbc.