Another cooling mod -5C! - to increase surface area of heatsink

very simple the pic speaks itself. before my max temp was 93C now dropped to 88C. and remember my 7970m is heavily overclocked at 1035/1560. .and it sits on wood desktop

 

Did you glue tin foil to the heat pipes?!!

 

no it is just like adhesive tape you can buy form store selling contruction equipments

 

lmao that's brilliant, can't believe it actually works!

 

actually you can stick more for better results

 

max temp will be same it just take longer time to reach that max temp because more cooling material
I just did this before and my max temp was same just take more time to reach that max
run test fo longer period of time

 

yours is different. yours effiency is lower. you can check the heat sinks on some motherboards. the fins are vertical, not horizontal.

 

Is this with the backplate on the temps drop by 5 Celsius with the added tape?

 

yes i put the backplate back and test

 

There are so many things wrong in that picture...

But I will start with one. When you tape anything on to copper, you are creating a thermal barrier between your heatsink and the air which is supposed to take out that heat. Therefore, if you stick that tape on your radiator, you have to stick the absolute minimum necessary for it to keep the proper airflow. Covering your heatsink with tape, is not a good idea.

 

Covering the heatsink with the adhesive cooling tape is just as bad too. I can only imagine how it messes up air flow in the case and blocks heat from escaping.

 

+1. Exactly what I was thinking. Less air flow over all the heatsink now.

Surprised it actually lowered temps.

 

I experimented something similar to what he has done on my laptop. And, yes, closing the gap between the ventilator and the heatsink does help with the air flow and decreases temps. Because the hot air that comes off the heatsink is no longer recirculated inside the laptop and sent back into the fans, thus forcing the fans to suck air from outside the laptop's chassis. But covering the copper heatsink with tape will increase the temps. The trick is to manage to close that gap with minimum covering of the copper heatsinks.

 

Hi,
Can you share some photos of your test?

Thank you,
Best Regards to all

 

Sounds like common sense.. If the air can't go back into the chassis from the heatsink, the pressure will equalize by pulling air from another place.

 

It's a permanent mod now. Maybe later when I will open my laptop for some cleaning.

Indeed.

 

Seems to me that the op is trolling... But hey I might just try it after I get my laptop to see if it really work.

 

Haha, great stuff, I see you took the AL tape to another level. creative.

 

I will put these when I recive it

 

You putting them on the heatsink and piping? Aren't those just transistor replacement heatsinks?

 

heatsink,will not fit betwen pipe and cover

 

overtime it will glue dust to the sticky side of the tape, it'll most likely have a negative impact on temperature in time

 

The tape around the radiator is a good one but taping up the whole heatsink just looks ugly and can see it interfering with the direction of the heat if you are using conductable material.

The best results I have seen are from the fella who recommended 3mm washers in between the heatsink screws. I dropped a good 10oC from doing that.

 

haha......if i own this model ill make&test a prototype of enhanced hs like this

p1x0's gpu suffered from poor heatpipe

 

LOL whats the next thing? Throwing in scrap metal inside the notebook and hope for the best

 

While this is true, this effect is negligible when you have a ridiculous amount of heatsinks.





on 8 Threads
99W Short (120s) - 3.8Ghz - 85C
87W Long - 3.5Ghz - 70C

Been using this setup for 3 months for ANN learning, fully stable, no issues, tape is just there to make sure nothing falls of an touches the mb, practically zero temperature difference when tape is on the heatsinks themselves.

 

HAHAHAHA! That's ridiculous but nice at the same time.

 

just as a note, that's literally the maximum amount of heatsinks I could attach to the cpu while still being able to close the cover and not damage the MB. There are places where there are 3 layers of stacked heatsinks.

 

I'm sure the temps dropped due to everything except from the op "mod".

 

I laughed so hard at that picture. So hard. I am in tears over this.

 

this looks ugly but it works

 

not sure if op trolling?

 

i added 8 of these to my gpu heatsink, they are aluminum, which has better heat dissapation, but less thermal conductivity, which is good because its not transfering the heat its just getting rid of it.

edit: so when i was at the dorms i bought a mini fridge...
its sitting in my room...
hmmm...
extra cooling?...
hmm more power consumption?
nissangtr786 will be pissed for me using way more power!
I think this will be rewarding in multiple ways haha.

 

Interesting. So I purchase these, place them as seen in the picture?
I'm going to try this. I did a re-paste it helped a little. Any additional cooling is welcome.

 

I don't know where to begin with what is wrong with some of these modifications.

Simply taping metal and fins to a heatsink will not work, or will only work in the short term.
Heat can not be destroyed, only displaced. By adding those things to the surface area of the heatpipes you are only displacing the heat by moving it from the pipes into the inside of the laptop, thus warming everything else up, pretty much cooking everything evenly. If there was a fan blowing on it and a way to exhaust it then the finned heatsinks would possibly help.

Better suggestions for cooling mods are ones like sealing the gaps between the fan and heatsink fins. Another is to increase the size of the hole for the fan intakes, as was found in another post.

One suggestion that could be made to Clevo/Sager would be to swap the copper fins out for aluminum fins as aluminum does dissipate heat faster, copper tends to retain heat a little more. Aluminum can't be used for the heatpipes though because it does bend easier and does not work as well for "carrying" the heat away from the CPU or the GPU, so copper is the better choice for that.

 

so which radiators are better?
alu or cooper?

 

Gold > Copper > Aluminium.

 

Copper! Always Copper! And the best are those of Copper-Nickel alloy.

 

Why copper for the fins? I can understand copper for the heatpipes because it should be able to accept the heat and spread it uniformly but it also keeps the heat.
Aluminum transfers the heat faster though but is prone to hot spots so that is why they generally use that for the "radiator fins" for lack of better terms. this is why Alienware, MSI, and Asus all do this right? Even some of the Sager/Clevo laptops have aluminum fins but still use the copper for the heatpipes.

 

its odd but my cpu heatsink is aluminum.

 

I really doubt they use aluminium fin raditors for any reason other than to achieve higher profit margins. Based on the build quality of these components. I would suspect that even if there was some theoretical improvement possible in thermal dissipation by using aluminum fins instead of copper, the benefit would be outweighed by pour assembly or increased thermal resistance at the copper/aluminium joints.

What I think may be happening in the case of Clevo, is that the fan is overkill anyway. So even if they have increased thermal resistance by using aluminum fins, it doesn't really impact the cooling performance.

 

These copper heat sink mods make little to no sense.

Placing heat fins on your heat pipes is like taking a gardening hose, poking it full of holes, and then wondering why your yard is flooding.

The design of the heat pipe is to direct the heat to a radiator. Adding these mods disrupts its engineered design.

Putting heat fins on your memory and voltage regulator without implementing perfect thermal transfer is pointless. The only way to make this effective is to redesign the entire heatsink with longer heat fins; not copper heat fins.

When it comes to thermal conductivity, Copper is ever so slightly superior to Aluminum. However, it's heavier and more expensive. The slight Pro does not out-way the two cons which is why all manufacturers use aluminum.

My cohort Heihachi is correct in why they use copper for the heat pipes. In all other areas aluminum is fine.

Did you ever wonder why manufactures across the board in every industry use aluminum instead of copper? Greater minds than you or I have figured this stuff out. Whether or not they learned it the hard way is the real question.

There are certain mods that people are doing here that just make sense, but these "Jerry-Rigged", copper heatsinks slapped randomly on your CPU and GPU are laughable. (Sorry if that's offensive.)

 

While this method doesnt decrease the temperature, it probably does increase the amount of time before the core reaches a specific temperature because of increased surface area, that is why they feel that the temperature went down.

 

True but when you for when you play multiplayer there are breaks in between matches, which allow the gpu to cool down, so yes it does actually help.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Ummm....in BF3 the "break" actually uses the GPU more than being in game.

 

I don't know, I did the copper mod for my Np6110.
You can see it in this thread: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sag...0er-semi-review-photo-thread.html#post8728619

It seems to have worked, the temps are down by 3 degrees.

 

i limit my frames to 90fps, since i run my screen at 90hz, so yes for me it does allow it to cool down.

 

actually , copper is better at removing heat , aluminum is just cheaper and lighter in weight
I did a mod similar to this one and the fans draw in air through other vents and past the CPU/GPU heat sinks and then out the exhaust. it dropped my GPU temp 10 C while playing BF3

 

I recently did a mod similar to this . I purchased and installed 16 small copper heat sinks with thermal epoxy on both the CPU and GPU copper heat plate of a sager np8150 with a 6990m video card and 2630QM. At the same time I repasted the CPU/GPU with Tuniq TX-2 and used aluminum tape to connect the fans to the radiators, closing the small gap.
the epoxy is permanent and there is no need to worry about them coming loose, but they can be soaked in acetone for removal if needed.
GPU temperatures : MSI Kombustor 2.5.0 GPU burn in test DX-11 post-FX 20 minutes
pre mod temp 90 C Post mod temp 84 C 6 C drop

: BF3 20 minutes gameplay@100%GPU utilization
pre mod temp 84 C Post mod temp 73 C 11 C drop

The CPU never goes above 72 c during intel burn test @ max stress level 16 GB ram 8 threads. test conducted for 30 minutes @ room temperature

the Mod does cause the CPU/GPU to both heat up and cool down slower due to the added mass of the copper.
this laptop has 2 fan intake vents , but also has a 3rd vent under the cpu, this vent pulls in air directly to the cpu copper heat sinks due to the suction effect caused by the 2 fans. the heat then travels into the fan intake and out its exhaust .
the fans on this laptop move such a high volume of air that the interior of the laptop does not heat up from the heat sinks . I highly recommend this mod
the cost was roughly 50 dollars for 2 packs of 8 copper heat sinks+thermal epoxy+thermal paste(Tuniq TX-2)+90%alcohol and 1 wrist grounding strap . Amazon sells them all

my fan blades were dirty at the time of testing because I misplaced my canned air

 

Most of that improvement was likely a fresh re-paste, it really is quite dead air inside the clevo case.