Another cooling mod -5C! - to increase surface area of heatsink

Yes, that's what I found. When I did my Clevo heatsink mod, I had to open the bottom of the case and direct air over the add-on heatsinks which helped quite a bit, but just opening up the bottom of the case also helped almost as much just by itself.

 

It makes more sense in a machine like MSI where there is not a direct intake over the fan so all the air is pulled through the case.

 

I am not in any way trying to be a jerk, BUT you must not own one of these laptops, even @ Idle you can reach under the laptop and feel the suction from both the CPU and GPU fan intakes . the center intake has no fan but still pulls air directly onto the CPU . I have an NP8150 15.6" laptop .I can tell you that the design does not allow for air to stagnate inside. the added copper also prevents rapid spikes in CPU/GPU temperatures. This laptop came with IC Diamond paste, and would hit 84 c on BF3 with 5% overclock on the GPU. it now hits 73 C with a 16% GPU overclock. The aluminum tape connecting the fans to the radiators dropped the temps by 1.5 C degrees by itself.

 

silver>copper>gold >aluminum
engineeringtoolbox.com

 

I have owned: MSI 16F2, GX60, 16F3 along with a clevo P150EM.

My comments come from personal experience with both kinds of machine along with trying to add copper to various places and clocking the 680M up to 1080mhz in the clevo.

So when I do make these comments it is from personal experience. Temperatures can vary due to pasting job (not just the paste used but how well), ambient temperatures and kind of load used along with how long that load is applied.

 

Interesting that an old thread is suddenly revived. There are a couple of threads about adding copper heatsinks. Yes, I totally agree that the method of applying thermal paste is extremely important. Most of the time, manufacturers are not going to spend 15 - 30 mins to clean the surface and lay a perfectly thin beautiful area. They are just going to squeeze and slap the thermal paste on, install the heatsink and call it a day. For the amount of money they pay the technician, it is not worth it to spend too much time applying thermal paste. It's going to be a 5 min job for them.

Anyway, about the copper memory heatsink, this is my experience. I wont' exactly say it's dead air inside of the clevo box. But, there isn't much air flowing inside. Base on what we are trying to do, it's basically considered as dead air. The heatsink installed will act as a thermal block. If you don't get rid of the heat, it's going to cause the overall temperature to get hotter. To make a long story short, this mod is not worth the time or money. I installed it, and didn't see a drop in the overall temperature. On the first day, temperature shot up 4 degrees higher. I suppose it was the thermal tape taking time to settle. Curing time to be exact. After that, max temp stays the same.

Only way to truly confirm if this mod works, will be doing tests and control all possible variables. First of all, don't repaste your GPU heatsink thermal compound while installing these memory heatsinks. I don't care what manufacturer says. There is always curing time to thermal compound. Artic Silver (AS5) has a curing time of approximately 100 hours. Your thermal paste should have been applied at least one week (and under heavy use) to remove the factor of the curing time of the thermal paste. While running the test, record the ambient temperature. This is the most important temperature data. Your results are totally useless without ambient temperature reading.

 

We do use a cleaning solution before applying a repaste, and for the purposes of these heatsinks it is dead air

 

i guess it also depends on the pattern on how the laptop generates heat, im thinking there are different patterns according to use. For us who use the laptop for content creation, we have mostly light load and have just a few 20 minute bursts of rendering using up 100% of all cores, the additional heatsinks would help slow down the time of heat is accumulated in the heat sinks. This also differs if you have a laptop cooler that moves the air from the case. if it were just the laptop without the cooler playing hours of intense gaming that would be a different matter, i would agree that the heat would just be stored up in all that thermal mass. Unless the fans run constantly at 100% also, that would evacuate the hot air from the case too. If somehow the air intakes could be channeled to pass through the additional heat sinks as well, the cooling would perform even better. I think the right type of cooling mods depend on how you use the machine and how the duration of heat cycles build up.

 

Electronics get hot and quick, 20 minutes is plenty of time to max things out no matter how many ramsinks you add.

 

you've got to tell more about that 3mm washers thing mate ! link?

 

You put them between the two prongs out of the 4 that you screw holes into that have 2 arms on them.

 

I'm sorry.. Wut

 

You would know what I was talking about if you saw the heatsink. There are the 4 screw holes to attach the heatsink around the core, 2 of those are actually made up of two arms.

 

Hello all, so about a month ago I bought a sager np9380-s and this is what happened, its actually good because it taught me how to tune the graphics on nvidia SLI cards perfectly and keep them running cold and smooth

Heres the youtube video with the same text in the description: Metro Last Light Gameplay on NVIDIA 780m SLI SAGER np9380-s 4800MQ i7 - YouTube

Metro Last Light Gameplay on NVIDIA 780m SLI SAGER np9380-s 4800MQ i7 with readouts from MSI afterburner (FPS is lower due to video being recorded and compressed) usualy runs without overclocking at 120fps on a 120Hz 3D screen laptop cost about 3,000$ Samsung 840 pro 256GB + up to 4 HDs This thing is a beast. Both GPUs overclocked from 850 MHz to 941 MHz and vram from 2500 to 2654 Mhz. I think its really worth watching and a really nice part of the game rendered well with my new sager laptop enjoy!

FYI for those of you who are interested in buying a sager or have a np9380-s. I noticed that after one month of usage, due to being in a dusty environment like a desktop, my first 780m was reaching temperatures of 90 easily and cooling down by lowering the clock. however, soon after opening it i discovered that there were dense amounts of dust stuck in the fins of the copper heatsink which used to have better airflow to dissipate heat, now im running at a cool 35-48 !!!! under pressure about 70. both cards, my first 780m is now cooling even better than the second one. This is very important if you can do it, nvidia inspector helps a lot, you can modify specifically how you want the sli to work in every game and look up SLI compatibility numbers, I also modded the vbios of both my graphic cards to overcome a power shortage to the sli cards, if you have a sager and have stuttering in your graphics DO THIS.

Finally, to remove the dust, i had to blow air rapidly through the copper fins of the heatsink until all the dust comes out and the fan youre blowing in starts spinning fast and making noize.

Long description, I know...Hope you actually make use of this

 

Did you really have to necro a 6 month old thread??

But yes, dust accmulates in the master GPU heatsink very rapidly. I'm in California and after just one month the entire right side was plugged with dust, de_dusting made the cards run about 3 C cooler under load.