Best vBios for GTX 680M - Stock Voltage + OV

Well, did you want to overvolt or keep stock voltage?

If you are staying at stock voltage, I'd go with the Clevo 80.04.67 file.

I'd also recommend really trying the bootable DOS usb drive and nvflash through that. I've heard it's safer and I've done it quite a few times and haven't had any issues.

 

Agreed, if you don't plan on overvolting the card, just stick with stock.

 

Hi Meaker?
File Type: zip Clevo 680m - 80.04.29.00.01 'OCedition' revised_01.zip (52.5 KB, 163 views)

Can you help me download this files?

 

Sure, either donate or get 5 posts on the TI forum and you will be able to get it along with future files

That's a pretty sweet deal.

 

My notebook: SAGER NP9370
Chip type: GeForce GTX 680M
DAC Type: Integrated
My GPU VBIOS: 80.4.67.0.1
Nvidia Driver: 347.52 (clean install)
Driver version: 9.18.13.4752

So guys, I flashed a 6701_N27.ROM (VBIOS 80.4.67.0.1) on my Sager NP9370 using nvflash, but I feel that the performance on games is ridiculously poor, I'm using nvidia driver 347.52. Anyone had the same problems?

Example: I saw many people on Youtube with a single 680M running Far Cry 4 on Ultra High 1080p@30~40fps, and I, with a 680M SLI, can't get this fps rate, running on ridiculous 1280x720 with medium~high settings, that's very strange.

 

Is your card clocking up? Did you flash both cards properly?

 

First check for any performance issues are temperatures, clocks and gpu usage levels.

 

Yes, I flashed them properly, I used nvflash on usb flash disk, boot on usb, them used the .ROM to flash both cards and I didn't get any error. Can you explain this "clocking up" for me?

Well, how can I do that, is there any test for this?


Thanks for reply guys.

 

There are many monitoring programs out there, Intel XTU, MSI afterburner, nvidia inspector, GPU-Z, realtemp and many more.

 

Yes, I use MSI Afterburner, but I don't know what is a "good" temp, clock, gpu usage, what you recommend, play Fary Cry 4 running for 10min and post the output here?

 

Yes, a screenshot of the graph over a period of game play is the best way, if you can graph the CPU temps too that would be perfect.

 

And if I enable the "Hardware monitoring logging" on MSI properties, would that be enough?

 

Detach the graphs, make them big and and take screenshots

 

Ok, I'll do that ASAP. Thanks.

 

Photos: imgur - MSI Graphs are on picture 12+

One thing I noticed was that the textures or maybe the light, I don't know, were flickering at some points, in the print it didn't show up, but playing I could clearly see the flickering.

 

Yeah your GPU2 core clock is throttling MASSIVLY while at the same time the temperature is hitting thermal limits so the cooling on that needs a check, GPU 1 usage is low as a result and it's clocks/temps are not great either.

I would be stripping off all the heatsinks, check the heatpipes are working correctly, see if the paste jobs are good and ensure there is no dust build up.

 

That happened only after I flashed this VBIOS. The temp is "normal" I think, it always was something like 80~90 Celsius while playing. But yes, the clocks and usage are strange. The inside is OK, the paste job was good (made by Sager), and I clean the inside regularly. Maybe the paste is already gone? Is that possible? I have this note for 2-3 years, does this thing "vaporize" with time and heat.

Can't this be caused be the VBIOS too?

In games like L4D2 and TF2 I don't feel any difference before and after the VBIOS, but this new games I see that the clock goes down. Is it safe to remove the heatsink and check if the paste on the GPUs is OK? I can just remove, check and put it again? I'll be looking for an YouTube tutorial for that. If it's just unscrew some screws that's easy.

Thanks.

 

If it's running at 300 mhz there is no way the temperatures should be that high.

 

So...

How can I check if check the heat pipes are working correctly? I'll be opening the notebook tomorrow when I have time, I saw that it isn't that difficult to remove the heatsinks, just unscrew some screws...

I'll take some photos of the chip, heat pipes, etc...

 

There you go: http://imgur.com/BG36T3U,0KmS9bY,ke...I0shW,CrHyyOI,67FXM64,R87WDtP,TIgZpkD,hPZLkqv

Indeed, the heatsinks were very dirty, I cleaned them all. Now, is the paste job good?

 

No you need to repaste.. get some good Gelid GC Extreme paste... Rub off the old paste using 90% alchohol or something or Articlean thermal paste remover and apply new paste.. a small drop or line through the middle of the die is all you need for CPU and even for GPU..

 

Ok, this will fix the temp problem, but what about the clock dropping issue, is it related? Which thermal paste brands are good, only this Gelid GC? Arctic Silver 5, IC Diamond 7, 24, are they any good?

Near my house I have a store that sell this one: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-grams-performance-compound/dp/B0045JCFLY

Arctic Cooling MX-4 4g - ORACO-MX40001-BL

Is it good for notebooks, and both GPU and CPU? Will one be enough for the 3 chips (2 GPU + 1 CPU)? And if I do it tomorrow let's say, how many years do I have to wait until it needs to be replaced again?

Thanks.

 

Yes if your gpu is too hot the clocks will automatically throttle. Be sure you have cleaned between the fins where the fans blow.

 

Yes, I did that. So, Arctic Cooling MX-4 4g - ORACO-MX40001-BL is a good one? Is it safe to use 90% alcohol in the "paste side" of the chips to clean the old paste? Just put some in a rag and rub it?

 

I suggest IC Diamond or Gelid GC Extreme or Arctic Céramique 2. I would avoid MX-4 for laptops. And for in general really.

Anyway. For your CPU, which is a rectangle, a line method would be best. For the GPU, a dot method or spreading the paste manually might be best. You can look up numerous guides on how to do that online.

 

Ok, thanks, I'll be looking for these brands. How many years does this IC Diamond or Gelid GC Extreme can handle until I have to redo the work?

My "current" paste was an IC Diamond 24, I bought the computer in DEZ/2012 and I don't know at which point the paste was "gone", maybe I was pushing the notebook for months/years and I didn't know.

I'm a bit limited to the brands I can buy here in my country. I do found this one: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5Grams. Is it great for notebooks?

 

If the paste is from yourself you used a bit too much last time

 

No, it was the factory. I never opened the CPU, GPU part. This paste is there since DEZ/2012. And the questions remains:

1. Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5Grams (It would be hard and expensive to find a Gelid GC here in my country). Is it great for notebooks?
2. How many years the paste usually can handle until I have to redo the work?

 

AS5 is better than MX-4 in notebooks, but it's still not that good. If you have no other choices, you can use that in the meantime I suppose.

As for your cleaning off; since you had ICD, you will want to "soak" the parts in alcohol or Arcticlean cleaning compound. Put some of the cleaner on top of the heatsink and on top of the GPU, making sure it covers the old paste. Then leave it for a couple minutes before wiping off. When cleaning in that manner, you don't get scratches on your heatsinks or dies.

 

Thanks, I found someone selling the GC Extreme, it's this one, right -> http://mlb-s2-p.mlstatic.com/pasta-...-cooler-cpu-18938-MLB20163756374_092014-F.jpg ?

It's a bit more expensive, but you guys say the GC Extreme is so much better than the AS5, I'll take it. How long does it last until I have to redo the work, 2-3 years?

 

Looks like it, yes.

I don't know how long GC Extreme lasts. I'd guess at least a year. That tube should last really long.

 

Yup.. Don't skimp on thermal paste.. I did that and the £2 I saved caused almost 6 months of trouble for me.. MX-4 is junk junk and utter junk!

 

So guys, do you know any video tutorial on how to apply the paste on a notebook?

I've seen on YouTube and every ******g video tons of people say that the guy on the video is stupid and did everything wrong. Then, there are videos that say I must spread the paste by myself, others say I just need to apply in the center and put everything on the place that it will work out. Kinda of lost here... =/

At least, in order to remove the old paste, everyone recommends a 90% Isopropyl alcohol or the Artic remover, in that matter, I'm good already. I'll be using the 90% alcohol, couldn't find the Artic remover near me.

Thanks.

 

GC Extreme will spread easily when you put the heatsink on. A little bit goes a long way. Put a bead about the size of half a pea in the center of each GPU die, put the heatsink on and tighten the screws in an X pattern then take it back off to check and see if you got full coverage, clean that off (you don't want air bubbles) and then redo the paste job. You want a very thin layer covering the whole die for optimum heat transfer.

 

Some people said that, but I have some questions:

1. You say to apply and put everything in place and then remove everything. In short, do the work twice, in order to check if the first attempt was OK and do the same thing on the second?
2. On notebooks the space between the heatsink and the chip itself is a bit larger than desktops, does this process work the same way?

Just in case, my primary goal is the GC, but I'm contacting the seller and they won't have it in stock for some weeks, maybe months, what they do have now is a non-brand thermal, MX-4 and the Artic Silver 5, some people don't like/recommend it, but it's better to have it than nothing (like I'm currently) until I can get the GC, right?

Is the process the same for both, AS5 and GC Extreme?

Thanks.

 

1. Yes otherwise you could end up with uneven coverage, air bubbles, and/or too much paste which will make the temps higher
2. Yes it does. The heatsink will do the spreading. If you spread it yourself, you can introduce air bubbles whereas the heatsink will spread the paste and fills its cracks, just make sure you tighten in an X pattern so for example, tighten top-left, then bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left. Be careful when you're tightening the screws, they strip easily and you're not increasing mounting pressure once they stop turning.

I've never used Arctic Silver myself because it has a burn-in period and you're supposed to tint the heatsink and such - here's the instructions for the stuff - http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf - that's for desktop applications but it gives you an idea of what's involved.

There are people who swear by AS5, its certainly better than the mess you have right now. MX-4 will just pump out over the course of a week or two in my experience, totally not recommended.

GC Extreme is literally just clean, apply, put back together and use as normal. AS5 is more involved and has a burn in period and MX-4 is just plain terrible.

 

Many thanks, is there anything between GC Extreme and AS5 that would be as easy to apply as the GC Extreme (like not having to tint things)? I'll be looking at other stores, they don't have the GC for sure because I already checked, but they might have some other brands that I can use until I get the GC from my local store.

 

Arctic Céramique 2, IC Diamond and Shin Etsu X23-7921 5

 

IC diamond has always been my go to paste

 

Thanks everyone, just another question. The notebook has some thermal pads that are covered in dirt, hair and things like that in the edges, should I replace all the pads along with the paste?

Is there anything to look for when buying these pads, brand, composition?

 

Make sure pads are 5w/mk or above and make sure thicknesses are correct when placing them.