Can someone help me get the BIOS for Phobos 8715S by Mythlogic

I have successfully flashed my CLEVO P870DM-G to the XMG U7260 BIOS but was disappointed to find out that it had no additional options, it is just a stock CLEVO BIOS with nothing extra.

I saw that the Mythlogic BIOS for the Phobos 8715S has a lot of extra options to tinker with

can someone hook me up with it?

My laptop is the G-SYNC variant with a Dual 980M SLI

 

they replied back, they need an order # which I obviously don't have

 

lol just chillax already and wait for premamod to release. in the meantime, dont think too much about it and enjoy your beast of a machine! thats an order!

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Prema BIOS isn't even released as a final for Eurocom Sky X9 owners, which means it will reach the public even months later as I understand.

The Mythlogic BIOS allows for so much more customization than the standard BIOS

 

i know buddy, the waiting game is a *****...

lets put it like this though: no one is holding you back from overclocking the crap outta your cpu via xtu and gpus via the prema vbios! no need for a premamod bios there! it will help you keep busy and also get to know your hardware better so that u can then proceed to the finetuning once the premamod becomes public

trust me, overclocking, testing, stability checking and benching takes A LOT of time so ull stay busy and happy tinkering

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I have a sucker of a 6700K, 4.2 on all cores and this thing starts reaching 95-98C territory and that is with a low voltage of 1.15V, let alone the fact that I have a perfect layer of Liquid Ultra installed, all even with no gaps on the CPU and advanced copper heatsink.

I might remove this liquid ultra and put GELID Extreme Thermal Compound instead.

What is bugging the living heck out of me is I see my CPU jumping between 3992 MHz to 4.2 GHz up and down randomly. I don't want to see that 3.x Digit at all! I just wanna overclock the FSB from 100MHz to 102 or 104 MHz so I won't have to see this stupid 3.x clock which that Mythlogic BIOS can help me do

 

it sounds like u might have a bad contact between heatsink and cpu. especially with clu applied u need A LOT of liquid metal paste to make proper contact. if u only have a razorthin layer of clu applied on one side (cpu) but not the other (heatsink) before heatsink installation, then chances are that contact is bad. trust me, ive experienced this first hand! this has nothing to do with your cpu the only situation where a razorthin layer of clu on only one side would be sufficient is if u have both contact areas lapped to perfect flatness! and lapping is an art by itself to properly master

the added copper ram heatsinks also dont lower your max temp but rather prolong the time frame in which the max temp is reached, so keep that in mind.

these cpu clock jumps can have many reasons. first of all, make sure ure in windows high performance profile. second,make sure to switch core voltage in xtu from adaptive to static and to find the lowest possible voltage for each multiplier (lets say 4.2 ghz in this case) by testing stability and temps during high load (boot, intel xtu 20 min, occt large data set 20 min), light load (gaming, browsing, video playback) and idle (sitting on desktop overnight). trust me, ull save tons of degrees just by finetuning core voltage! it includes, of course, some work from your side, with this kinda hardware there is no "quick fix" with fixed settings (just take a look at how hard mr. fox and prema are working to get things just right!)
thirdly, make sure to switch off any and all powersaving features in xtu and in the windows energy profiles, as well as that newly introduced skylake clock switching feature (forgot the name).
fourthly, max out every and all sliders in xtu pertaining to power limits!!! u dont want your cpu being held back and thus downclocking due to power or tdp limits, ONLY thermal limit (and that u can greatly influence by voltage adjustment, delidding, keeping internals clean, fan speed, air circulation improvement, choice of thermal paste, etc)
lastly, once u get an unlocked bios, u can finetune both the bclk spread (the range in which the bclk is allowed to be fine adjusted by the system for stability purposes) and also disable the cpu c-states to hammer the set frequency into place and also get a slight performance boost due to the cpu running at its max. all the time.

tuning hardware and getting the most out of it is hard work, please dont forget that. premamod should not be considered an "easy fix" for wanting to have bleeding edge overclocking performance, u absolutely need to invest patience, time and research into this, otherwise u wont get far!

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you mean the Intel Speed Shift Technology , that's only available with the Prema Magical BIOS

 

yes thats the one! dont bother with that, according to fox it actually gives u lower benchmark performance and it should be disabled by default right?

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contradicting to the article I linked above, what the article states in a nutshell, is you know how there is a lag from when the CPU is running at stock speed and wants to run in Turbo Boost mode? well supposedly, the Intel Speed Shift should make the switch to the higher frequency faster with no delay. But as we all know, what's on paper is different to the real world scenarios.

 

@Matrix Leader You can ask some of the others with the same laptop as you on the forum to run the same benchmark/stress test, the same processor settings and compare temperatures afterwards... Be sure everyone run the tests in the same ambient temperature. If you have a temperature problem against all other; Apply more Clu or shift to ICD as heasink can be warped. I think @Mr. Fox recommend ICD if the heatsink is not completely flat or is warped. Not Gelid Extreme.

 

also, i just saw that u switched from static voltage to adaptive. i wouldnt do that, cuz now ure allowing the voltage to fluctuate. stick with static, but just lower the core voltage until u see instabilities in your tests. ull get way lower temps that way than by going adaptive. that -150mV adaptive is again a quick n dirty fix based on approximations of other users, dont be lazy!!!

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I know even Mr. Fox told me to set it to static but with static, even if I go as low as 1.150V the temps reach up to 95C in the XTU Benchmark. With adaptic /-150mV which is what @HTWingNut said to do in his review, the temps are @86C max

 

then go even lower than 1.15V! doesnt matter as long as it is stable! what load voltage do u get at -150mV? the adaptive values dont tell you anything unless u also give the info about the stock voltage, thus adaptive would be = stock voltage - 150mV in your case...

what it looks like is: even at 1.150V ure probably not even close to the load voltage youre reaching when going -150mV on adaptive mode. so just set it to static, go straight to the voltage u have when on adaptive and -150mV and then go even lower until u hit your instability limit.

rule of thumb by case of an example:

stock voltage at 1200mV
adaptive mode -150mV = 1200mV - 150mV = 1050 mV +/- X mV (due to fluctuations allowed on adaptive mode)
static mode uve tried thus far = 1150mV (still 100 mV higher than your stable adaptive setting, thats why u still get higher temps! makes sense, huh? )
static mode done correctly: set to 1050 mV, then lower in 5 mV steps until u hit your stability limit

my prophecy: the lowest stable voltage you can reach with static mode will be LOWER than the lowest stable adaptive mode voltage, resulting in......take a wild guess.....yep, lower temps and rockstable, non-fluctuating core voltage!

cmon man, start stability testing already! its your duty as a proud owner of a phoenix!