Clevo P150 and P170 cooling systems neglected by Clevo! (solutions here)

how about to make 4 pieces and aply pressure on each corner
or buy old used heatsing,cut springs and use them as aditional spring for each corner

 

applying too much pressure to an uncapped GPU is going to trash your card...

 

possible to buy fan cable spliter for our laptop?

 

Not to be disrespectful or condescending, but I must give you a /rolleyes


I repeatedly indicate in my tutorial that this is what happened on my notebook... I don't think you fully read what I wrote.

 

No, I didn't really read it

 

With all the threads on this subject this point can't be emphasized enough.

 

So, I finally got my IC Diamond tube in the mail! Once I completely cleaned off the heatsink and GPU die of TIM, I noticed something: The poorly installed bent heat pipes of my heatsink assembly were holding my GPU heatsink up like a teeter-tauter over the GPU die. This is why I've had so many inconsistencies with cooling! One corner rested 1-2mm higher than the opposite and it required a lot of pressure to bend the heatsink to the GPU die. So, to fix this, I gradually bent the copper pipe at the right spot to where it could rest on the GPU die evenly without TIM, and I can say much less pressure is needed now for my heatsink to make even contact with the GPU die. Plus, the gap which required aluminum tape to seal is no longer there. So, after bending the pipes (not the heatsink tabs) I applied the ICD TIM after dipping the syringe in recently boiled water for 60 seconds:

New Test:

Kombustor @ 7 minutes with lid off: 78C

Kombustor @ 10 minutes with lid on: 88/89C

That 10-12C climb used to happen in less than 1 minute at a consistent fan RPM, and now it takes 3 minutes. Win! This is significantly longer to reach max temps at the same fan RPMs as my previous tests now, so I know its working better overall. Plus, this is even before the new IC Diamond application has cured. It has only had 20 minutes of heat. I am confident this system is working as efficiently as it can short of modifying the vent port on the laptop cover.


Summary for my notebook:

It seems Clevo did a bad job with aligning these copper pipes and just sloppily threw them in. In my notebook, this is the reason the metal tabs aren't strong enough. The pipes were resisting the GPU heatsink in the wrong direction. Now all thats left is to mess with the fan port sooner or later.

This isn't a forum for TIM lab tests. I'm just giving an easy method to check your heatsink/pipe assemblies. Also, a -10C drop in under 1 second is certainly not a nuance; the fan RPM doesn't even have time to change. Its an explosive drop in temperature.

 

wow i never thought of heating the thermal paste up before i applied it, when i get my copper tape and repaste ill be sure to do that, also i hooked my fans to the gpu fan using a splitter i made.

 

Does it increase/decrease the RPM as the main GPU fan increases/decreases? Also the GPU fan is 5V, 2 x 12V extra fans is gonna be alright?

 

they are 5v fans and they go along with the gpu fan, and when i press fn+1 they max out, so there is no problem supplying power to them. works perfectly. idles at 32c in a 26c room, and it goes down to 28c when everything is maxed.

 

Ah those 2 are 5v fans? Do you still remember how much amp each uses?

 

0.17amps each

 

The GPU fan itself uses 0.5Amps, good to know that the GPU fan slot can feed up to 5V x 0.84A.

 

i bet it uses pwm to drive the fans, and it could probably supply up to an amp at least.

 

Did you try playing games without cooller and Fn+1? What's the temp like when the 2 small fans are auto controlled by the GPU temp?

 

when my house stops being a police state i will tell you, living with my parents in between semesters sucks.

 

I see why you needed those huge cans

 

Meh. I still idle at 45c with my lid on, although the fans aren't spinning at all. Yours are running when idle right?

Also, howd you affix the fans? Double sided sticky pads on the center, or some type of solid mount?

I might be interested in putting 1 in if it can be done without modding anything existing inside the case, since there are actually 3 ports in the cover and one is where you put the fans. And I like those aluminum fins you put in. I've been considering filling the gaps between the pipes with Arctic Silver Alumina to make it 1 solid heat block (although i dont know how well that'd work) ... but now that I see these fins, I bet a balance of thermal epoxy and aluminum fins would probably do a really good job at adding a ton of surface area. Would you be opposed to adding some small seams of Alumina in the gaps between the fins and pipes and see what happens? (essentially connecting the base of the fins directly to the heat pipes) And, if you really wanna go all out, fill the gaps between the heatpipes too. I think it'd increase the amount of heat going through the pipes rather than into the air around it.

Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive

 

i have this insulation foam that has one side thats sticky, and i glued two of them together with super glue, but basically its foam with double sided tape. the foam just raises the fans up to the level of the heat sinks and gives them more room vertically and horizontally.

its this stuff btw, but any foam will do, i just had some laying around.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/63637-armaflex-%5Bensolite%5D-foam-tape-$15-roll.html

 

did U cut wires to atach fans? details please.

 

I didnt cut Anything from the notebook itself, what i did do was take a 3 prong socket and plug that was in the controller unit of my notepal u3 then i soldered the wires from the extra fans to the socket from the notepal u3. I can make a diagram that will explain what i did better. Im on my phone right now.

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edit: ok so i tested it with just running it on auto, flat on my desk running bf3 i get 78c, when i max everything flat on my desk i get 68c, when i max everything and put it on my notepal u3 i get 58c. im still waiting for the copper tape, and i did a pretty crappy repaste job, i know there were bubbles, so i think this week sometime the tape should come and i can get some even better results.

 

Ok,You connect fans to laptop cooler
I want run without cooler so I may connect to usb port.
My goal is to add extra cooling to gpu so gpu fan will not run at max speed.

 

no they are connected to the internal fan with a homemade fan cable splitter. its all contained in the laptop.

i used parts from my laptop cooler to make the splitter.

 

ok,i got it
I just need to find these connectors,male and female

 

i found them in my notepal u3, but you may be able to order an actual splitter and then modify it to your liking.

 

Yes,Im looking for tthis type of spliter

this will work ? Computer Fan 3-pin "Y" Splitter-Black Sleeved | eBay

 

no thats going to be too big, why dont you measure the plug. just a bit of fair warning the fans are really loud and high pitched so it probably wont reduce noise.

anyways you will find the parts you need in this, and if you dont already have a notepal i suggest getting one, or at least proping your notebook up to get more airflow. Notepal U3 Notebook Cooler Fans - OEM Package - Cooler Master Store

this is a pretty involved task, thats definantly going to require some soldering, but i have found the exact connector needed. you need all three of these, to make a splitter, and you also need the connector for the fan you want to add in. 0500588000 Molex Inc | WM1775CT-ND | DigiKey
51021-0300 Molex Connector Corporation | WM1721-ND | DigiKey
0530470310 Molex Inc | WM1732-ND | DigiKey

 

Is every p150em with 7970M with cooling issues ?
the p150em with GTX680 is fine?

 

More than fine, the GTX680M is the coolest notebook GPU ever.. even OC'd

 

Some are worse than others, but there is a fair share of those with misaligned heatpipe assemblies. Read the original post and you'll know how to check yours. I'm mainly curious in checking to see if the GTX680 installations are just as sloppy and inefficient.

This has nothing to do with the problem that this forum is about. If the GTX680 cooling system installation has the alignment problems of the 7970M, it is being affected by it too.

 

Does all p150/p170 users needs to do this modification or what? I'm confuse because it's suppose to work out of the box right? What is the problem here? Does it overheat and throttles and shuts down or games become unplayable or is it too hot and loud or what?

Is this a requirement that all users do this? I mean what happens if we just use it as it is without cutting/grinding or whatever?

 

Fully reading the OP should explain it plenty well...

Its just an efficiency problem to check for, not something that stops the notebooks from working.

 

What? Source please

 

What is interesting is even with all of the mods some people are doing they still end up with higher temps then other who just do a foil mod or no mod it seems.

With just a foil mod I get 79-81 in furmark, but it seems you have to do all of these modifications to get those temps, when I just needed foil tape.

On a side note when I use Fn+1 I max out at around 71.

 

with all the mods i did, i max out at 57c, so yes it does actually make a difference.

 

My heat pipes were bent way out of shape and pulling unevenly on my GPU heatsink. I get 79C with my laptop cover off at least at fan stage 3/5, lol, but 89C with the lid on And, going along with that, some people might not even have a bent out of shape assembly, yet theres a good chance someone doesnt read closely enough, is just clueless, and is putting the washers in cause thats what the tutorial is about without really reading that it is on my notebook and others vary. I can't account for user stupidity after that. This forum by no means states that %100 of these notebooks have these flaws, but a large group of users has these gap problems and heatsink pressure issues.

Anyone that needs a foil mod from misaligned fins has pipes that are bent out of line. The extent of how much stress is on the GPU is case sensitive though.

 

you know what i was wondering, do you think insulating the heat pipes would work better than adding extra heatsinks?

 

I decided to see what temps I would get without the bottom cover on, so here are my results.

No bottom cover with regular fan mode: 75C, a modest drop from the 81C I usually see with a bottom cover.
No bottom cover with Fn+1 fan mode: 65C, a modest drop from the 71C I usually see with Fn+1 mode.

But together I would say a drop from 81C to 65C is a decent drop, though running with Fn+1, and no bottom plate isn't really practical.

 

These are all big improvements over my old 9600m, which I use to see 95C+ some times on my MBP.

 

Meh, I wonder where this 8-9C extra is coming from on my end. The TIM is applied just right and the pipes are aligned as well as I can get them to align. I suppose the ICD curing will drop another 1-3c and I just gotta not care anymore and go with what I got I did my best.

 

you guys could also lap your heat sinks if you want to go the extra mile, its not even difficult, you just need a few grits of fine sandpaper.

 

Ahh I forgot to do that before I applied my TIM. Not gonna, since I took every pre measure I could to do it perfectly the first time (except lapping, lol). I did a dip in pre-boiled water, set up a whole work area, and everything. Not gonna do all that work again for maybe a possible -1C

 

I noticed the copper exhaust vents, seem to have very narrow slits, wonder if this is impeding any air flow.

 

It looks like the copper is probably 1/6 to 1/8th the width of the openings, so that really doesn't negate airflow much at all. Thats equivalent of a 1 inch wide pipe blocking an 8 inch wide vent. Its nothing compared to the fan grate on the laptop cover and I wouldn't even consider modding them.

 

I assume the black paint on the copper vent is a purely aesthetic thing right, some of the black paint got on my heat pipes as well.

 

Interesting write up especially for a future P170 owner. going to /google to see if anyone has made a 3rd party plastic bottom for these models.

 

I was actually thinking about doing this myself, the bottom would have metal grills instead of plastic and flip up feet, that are built in.

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Does this cooling problem happen on P151EM? I'm using P151EM with 7970m so really curios to see if it exists or not...

 

Paint on radiator will definitely decrease thermal dissipation efficiency. It maybe negligible in this application though. Given the variance in other factors between repaste jobs it might be very hard to determine it's contribution if one was to sand off the paint (if the detrimental effects of paint are relatively minor in comparison).

 

Its aesthetic, yeah. It comes off real easily, too. I barely moved it and flakes are coming off. It actually looks way cooler with the copper color shining through... Clevo seems to make a lot of small judgement errors, lol.

Yeah I've been thinking the same thing... I contacted my reseller asking if they'd sell me a spare cover. I want to make a better fan grate too, something like what youre talking about. My old laptop has an angled grate that doesn't rely on small holes, so it lets tons of air in.

That's for you to let us know... try the test I laid out in the OP If you have an external monitor you can hook up, its very easy and simple to do, so don't rush and just take it easy.

I'd say there's a pretty decent chance the brackets in yours are as weak as ours since you got it with the 7970m.

Or, did you put in the 7970m yourself and replace an old card? If you did you might have a different heatsink block than us.