Clevo P150EM will not power on, help please

So last week my NP9150/P150EM mysteriously just powered off out of no where in the middle of a game. My AC adapter (which is somewhat frayed at the shielding connecting a wire to the adapter) will power on its light like normal when plugged into the wall, but once I plug the other end into my laptop, the blue light goes from a bright constant on to a very faint flash every few seconds. The laptop's power lights won't power on at all.

I assumed this was a potential AC Adapter/Battery issue so ordered a replacement AC Adapter and Battery (from RJTech). The AC Adapter took me by surprise since it significantly lighter and smaller than the original AC Adapter that came with my laptop (which is 180W and I did make sure and double checked that I did order a 180W adapter). I assume that it might just be better technology in the 3 years since I ordered my laptop which is why it is smaller, however posted below are some numbers to see if this could be the issue. Now, after plugging in the new battery and new AC adapter, my laptop is still not powering on nor are the power lights coming on at all. There is no light on the new adapter so I cannot see if that is working properly or not.

I've tried all combinations of the 2 adapters and 2 batteries in my laptop and nothing will power it on and all of the above mentioned are still occurring.

Any idea of what the issue could be or is? I'm freaking out because I don't have the money for a new computer and this is only 3 years old.

AC Adapter info (in case I was sent the wrong adapter):

Original Model:
Model #: FSP180-ABAN1
AC Input: 100-240V ~ 2.5A 50-60Hz
DC Output: 19V - 9.47A

New Model:
Model #: ADP-180MB
AC Input: 100-240V ~ 2.34A 50-60Hz
DC Output: 19V - 9.23A

Edit:
I've also tried powering the laptop with the 2 RAM DIMMS in different slots as well with only 1 of each. I've also tried with only my mSATA drive in and with only my SSD in. So far, all the same negative results.

 

Dead main board. It's possible it can be reworked, but it may need swapped out for a replacement board.

 

Edit: I see mainboard replacements are in the $300 range. Is it hard for someone with moderate tech experience to swap out a laptop mainboard? Is any soldering required in this case? Also is this without a doubt a mainboard issue and not something else?

 

Yeah, they do run about that price point for this model. It's not difficult, just a little time consuming, as it requires a complete tear down (removal of components, top case removal, and then removing the board from the bottom case + installing new board and components to new board). Take your time and every precaution if you've never gone that deep before! There's no soldering involved strictly for replacing it.

It's possibly a component like RAM or the CPU, but in our experience, this sort of thing has almost always been a result of the board; can't say "without a doubt" without troubleshooting.

 

I guess my last question is in regards to the OS. I have an OEM license and I know with desktops it is tied to the motherboard. I take it that this is also the case with laptops. Does Microsoft have any service that allows transferring the key to a new motherboard in the case of damage?

 

You will probably find that it stays activated with the same motherboard, but you can always use the phone activation if it does de-activate.

 

I was talking with a friend and was wondering, how often does the above situation I've described of my laptop come down to the DC Jack that connects the AC adapter plug to the motherboard?

 

What that there is damage to the jack itself or the connection to the motherboard? It happens with some regularity but mostly due to people dropping it while plugged in etc.

 

Sure, it's possible; AC/DC jack and display hinges are one of the most common 'failed-due-to-wear' components. Only thing is; it'd be a quite odd for the jack and battery connector to fail at the same time. Considering it won't run on battery-only either ... unless neither battery holds a charge anymore, of course (when drained after AC/DC failure).

Multimeter would help; check right after the jack and battery connector. A fuse may be out, too. Fortunately you have a Clevo, hence a labelled board; check for "F" and set multimeter to Ohms. They should all measure close to 0Ω, instead of the 'infinite resistance' symbol.