Delidding 6700k

Hi all,

I've decided to delid my cpu. I've order CLU and I'm looking for some information about resealing the IHS on the chip. Delid tools are not available in UK at the moment so I'll be very carefully using a sharp slim blade. I'm confident about the CLU just don't want to buy/use something to seal it that may cause damage

 

I already damaged one CPU using a blade, i would recommend getting a TOOL.
The 6700K will shine if you make sure your cooler is making proper contact.
A modded cooler might be needed to fix the contact issue.

 

Genuinely have no access to delidding tools not for sale anywhere online that I've seen. I was just going to test using CLU without delid. I've got good contact from heatsink. What do you mean by a modded cooler?

 

Even though personally i have done the blade delid a bunch of times, i wouldnt really recommend it. Try checking ebay , or the Rockit delid tool website, if they will ship internationally from the US. You might be able to order one from the Caseking.de as well.

By modded cooled im assuming he, means a Notepal U3 with 120/140mm fans.

 

aside from one in the uk for sale they aren't available it seems? I am confident not to damage the chip itself i worry more about the substance used to reseal the IHS.

As for modded coolers I think that's a little out of my wheelhouse. My p775dm3 is my personal laptop mainly used on my knee. So custom coolers with wires etc aren't viable.

 

I tried a blade for about 2 seconds then realised the pressure required meant the risk was ridiculous. I've seen dead delids from the tiniest nick on the pcb and I can totally understand why. I would not do it with a blade.

The 3D printed tool - if it's made properly (PLA with >40% infill but don't quote me) worked fine for me and was $20 inc local post here on Oz Ebay compared with >$50pp for either the rockit or diemate tools

I didn't bother resealing mine, the adhesive was hard and cracked nicely, I didn't clean it off, it held the IHS snug when I put the lid back on, it must have been squashed back together and restuck to itself - when I recently checked the LM under the lid after a couple months I had to use the tool again!

I don't think you need to reseal really. The socket puts huge pressure on the sides of the IHS, the only potential for movement would be as you slide the socket closed, and any movement is easily seen as you do that.

The argument about resticking the IHS to prevent a spill is a moot point, you shouldn't be using that much LM in the first place, and Intel must have left a gap in the adhesive for good reason (i.e. they didn't think it was a good idea to bead the adhesive all the way around), and on our laptops where the CPU is mounted on the underside of the mobo, gravity would have LM spill 'downwards' into the IHS not upwards into the socket.

 

Really limits my options then the actual maker of the delid tools is shut down atm none of the sellers have stock. The one in the UK on eBay wants £40 for the set he has used. I don't think using liquid metal on the IHS outside will make much difference from the paste currently on. I also need to replace the awful thermal pads thrown in that are way too thick and poorly positioned.

 

The trick is to use the really thin double sided shaving blades. Just put some masking take on the other hand, to prevent cutting into your own fingers.
And keep it as flat as possible, the moment you see bends on the edge, change the blade.

They cut through the glue like butter.

 

Yeah my thoughts were how could the sealant be? Any tips for the pasting itself? Saw people leaving electrical tape around their chips when using liquid metal? Also is it worth coating the inside of the IHS where it makes contact with the chip to improve conductivity? Would the tape long term cause a problem with it being insulating tape? Really need to swap out the pads also think they're causing worse heatsink connection due to being cheap the wrong thickness an in the wrong place

 

I use this -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And it not needed to seal the IHS back on, the socket latch holds it down easily and well. Both my 6700k and 7700k arent sealed.
Also if you want to be really really careful, then use some electrical tape to cover up the surrounding contacts on the PCB. Not quite needed unless you use a lot of CLU/Conductonaut and are paranoid/want to be super careful.
It is always good to super thin layer on the inside of the IHS to make sure the contact works well, i just use the residue on whatever applicator im using.
Thing with using Silicone based sealants is that there is a chance, you might use too much and end up causing a gap.

As for the pads, then yes, it helps to keep them at the minimum possible thickness to make sure the contact is even.

 

Ah that's a great idea just a super thin coating of whatever excess on the inside will be enough. I've used sealant plenty of times before I'd be confident about resealing the IHS but if you're confident about it being left unsealed not causing issues then I would do that. As said earlier I'd not be surprised if the original sealant unattached under the pressure of being clamped back in. Would you recommend the tape only for during liquid metal application or would it be ok left on? I think I'm going to order some good quality 1mm and 0.5mm pads as the ones on now are so smashed up they're clearly the wrong thickness. Wouldn't mind an ideal layout for the p775dm3 heat pads if one was available

 

Leaving the tape on will depend on how you are applying the tape for and how you are applying it.

As for the thermal pad thickness, i really dont know what thicknesses are used in the P775DM3. I think @iunlock , has one and would know more.

 

I'll be applying the LM while it's taped up safely then removing the tape. I think I'll leave the old sealant on and see if it sticks again after pressure and heat from CPU. The pads in atm are at least 2mm and so squashed they're almost split.

 

Here ya go mate.



Also regarding the IHS and gluing it back on...

IF, you're using a delid tool, I'd just keep the black goop on there and once you're done repasting the die->IHS, use the natural foot (IHS) print in the glue to re-align the IHS back. The pressure from the clamp is more than enough to keep it nice and secure.

In fact, I had to use the relid tool again just to get the IHS off as the pressure from the clamp really set in the IHS pretty well so it's not like the IHS will just slide around or pop off.

Note: That's the IHS (foot) print I was referring to...it acts as a nice guild line and also will semi reseal from the pressure from the clamp; enough to where you'll likely need the tool again just to take the IHS back off so this is why I do not glue the IHS on as it is NOT needed IMO.


Now IF, you're doing the razor method, then you won't have the IHS foot print so you'll just have to dock the space station manually, which I don't prefer btw.

Hope that makes sense and that it helps....

Cheers.

 

Putting it quite simply that is absolutely amazing help! I agree with the glue being less likely to reattach with it being cut by a razor I'd happily reseal it myself with a much smaller thinner closer contact using very little adhesive. I'm not looking for an overclock just a much cooler CPU. Those pics alone of your pad placement and thickness highlights how badly the sellers original work was. I can't wait to fix these now! As for the delid with a blade I'll just be cautious and work patiently.

 

That works, if you are doing this for the first time, i would check out @iunlock 's Alienware repaste thread, or the 775Dm3 one (i think there are images there as well, unless im tripping). And just follow similar guidelines. Always better to be cautious, till you get used to fiddling with the insides over time.

 

Thanks guys...always here to help.

If you're doing the Razer method, just be extra cautions to have the CPU well braced and take note of where the resistors are, because you can slice right through them pretty easily...

Also this is the glue that I'd highly recommend...it has the most integrity out of the product line and can withstand high heat. Highly recommended for the razer method.

You can also click on the AW and 775 in my signature to be linked directly to those threads.

Happy Delidding!

 

I actually used that on a friends processor after a delid, and for some reason the IHS popped off the next time he took the processor of the socket. It was a pretty generous application as well along the edges. Probably didnt seep in enough.

 

Was it that exact one or the other general glue of the same brand?

I haven't had any issues with this particular glue.

::iunlock::

 

If it's available in the UK I'll use it. I'm looking at thermal pads now any suggestions? Money isn't an issue but I'd rather get the best. CLU is coming Friday so I'll be doing the delid then I'm going to take pictures and reapply the pads at the same time. Really hoping for an improvement, next up is a cooling pad suitable for size that is actually useful

 

Yeap same one. I love that glue other wise.

 

Hmm... Not sure then. I usually just put a very light amount around the edges, but it's been so long since I don't glue it down anymore.

::iunlock::

 

Same here. That was the only time I sealed it for someone else.
Sealed my 6700k once with the silicone rtv stuff and it held up pretty well. Been a long time since then though.
Might have come off maybe because I cleaned the surface way too much

 

(from a couple pages back) yes make sure you 'wet' the underside of the IHS with liquid metal (as the instructions will tell you to). It has to alloy with the surface of the IHS it in order for good contact

 

Thanks for the help guys. Really appreciate it, I'm hoping this will be the solution to the heat issues with this machine. Add to that I've had some help from John@obsidian with clocking speeds and undervolts. I'm hoping to just have a bit of a cooler machine.

 

Meant to ask do you have a preferred Thermal Pad?

 

Fujipoly 11.0w m/k (recommended)

Avoid the 17.0's.

::iunlock::

 

Thanks I'll have to look and see if they're available anywhere over here (UK) I'd prefer the better quality

 

fujipoly is also sold as modright, alphacool, some other brand that I don't remember from germany


arctic is also not a bad choice if you want something reasonably cheap with good performance (6/wmk)

 

Struggling to even find any of those for the 2 and 4mm pads I want. Found the arctic cooling 1 and 1.5mm on amazon

 

arctic is good


afaik fuji is only 0.5/1/1.5

 

I use chinese ebay pads for 2/3/4/5

 

Fuji has 2/2.5/3 as well. but they are 6W/mK , so rather grab Arctic ones instead.

 

hmm, never saw that option

where buy?

also arctic have thicker than 1.5?

 

Performance PCS and Frozen CPU both have the FujiPoly ones. Performance PCS didnt have the 2.5mm last week, so picked that up from FCPU, the rest i grabbed from Performance PCS., but they mostly seem to have the larger sheets, FPCU has most sizes. Amazon has the Primochill packed ones , but only 0.5/1/1.5mm.
https://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=fujipoly
I remeber seeing the Artic ones a while back on amazon, cant seem to find them anymore.

 

trying to avoid shipping them to UK. I'll get the amazon Arctic 1 and 1.5mm. Keep searching for the 2mm and 4mm from anywhere

 

lol seeing the prices for those things make me rathher stick to the chinese pads ._.

 

I HIGHLY doubt they make too much of a difference on our laptops, but i repadded my 1080Ti waterblock wtih the FujiPoly 11 W/mK, and i got a 15-20C drop in VRM/MOSFET temps.
Really wish these monkeys at Clevo, would make a tighter fitting heat sink(s) for Christ sake.

Also the smaller sheets was like half the price. Expensive none the less.

eBay ma man.

 

For how little I need the 4mm pads I'd take any tbh. I'm happy with the arctic for the 1.5 and 1mm but I want quality pads for the 2mm as they are the most used

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-100mm-...al-Pad-/251735856827?var=&hash=item3a9ca056bb

 

hmm? compared to what brand pad?

 

The EK pads that come with the block and the Arctic ones. Arctic ones dropped the VRM temps by 5C or so, Fujipoly dropped it another 15C.

 

I had to go with Artic pads from Amazon. FrozenCPU's shipping prices are absolutely ridiculous.

 

True that. Seems to be the case everywhere though. Luckily enough, Amazon here seems to have both the Arctic and Fujipoly ,0.5/1/1.5mm pads with same day delivery.

 

oh ok

have fcpu gotten back from the drug scandal last year?

haven't delved into much research into them ever since

 

wait @bloodhawk what 1080ti have vrm temp monitoring?

afaik nothing has that feature except the unreleased evga icx

 

Yeah I'm trying to avoid getting scalped on shipping. Currently on eBay searching for 2mm and 4mm

 

Yeah I'm not sure about any details of that drama but I read they're all good again.

 

@TBoneSan ok thanks for the info


performance pcs also scalp for shipping

 

Yeah, i have ordered from them about 10-15 times in the last year, and havent had any issues. YET.
The only other order ****up i know of, was when they sent Prema the wrong size/thickness pads.
I order from them only when there arent any other options, and mostly only FujiPoly stuff and difficult to find WC stuff.

Yeap. For now lol.

Nope no dedicated monitoring. I had a few thermocouples , and a few that came with the motherboard. Just stuck em under the block after doing a icewater/boiling water calibration test.
Waiting on my trimpots for now, my 1080Ti is a lemon, cant even hold 2075 @ 1.093 V under water @ sub 40C.
Even after a power mod. (shunt short)
Im waiting for the Classified release for now. Till that time the FE will do.