***EVGA Precision X and Windows 7/8/8.1 and especially 10 bricking systems***

I just made an account here to throw my 2 cents into this mess. I've got two machines and 3 panels down. One is an Alienware 17r1, the other though is a Dell precision m4700. Both had fresh Windows 10 installs and after getting everything setup just right, I committed the sin of installing EVGA precision. Here's the issue though, I've reflashed the screen on the precision, and it worked. I was ecstatic, but it died again after one restart, and when it died the second time the edid file literally disappeared, like same bus and location as before, but no file to be found anymore and no way to write a new one. I had already uninstalled EVGA px before connecting the screen back to the machine, but that apparently didn't matter as it was the same Windows 10 install and same Nvidia drivers.

I was able to connect my Alienware 17's screen to the precision and flash it, getting around the no post issue with a dead LCD on the Alienware. But now I'm afraid to do anything more. I've read reports that even reverting back to Windows 7 with a fresh install on a different ssd and never touching EVGA precision or msi afterburner can still eventually kill the LCD. Is this still believed to be the case? Or am I safe with a fresh install of windows 7 and avoiding EVGA precision etc?

 

BROTHER, i cant thank you enough, you have saved me 600$ of buying another laptop, i had given up on my laptop screen as i couldnt be sure what was the problem as i already tried the linux mint edid flash and that didnt work, but i tried ur method and booooom, wow its alive again and i can still game on my upgraded 8 year old msi gx640 and i can wait for my future laptop of intel 10nm cpu and nvidia 7nm gpu with qhd ips 144hz 7ms.

All thanks to you brother.

 

Hi t456, I wonder if you can helpme. Just yesterday a friend sent me an alienware 17 with the screen problem, but I'm having a problem with the command "sudo i2cdetect -l", it is only showing me the following info and none of them is from the edid corrupted panel (all of them shows just xxxxxxx with the sudo i2cdump -r 0-127 X 0x50 command), any idea?

i2c-0 i2c i915 gmbus ssc I2C adapter
i2c-1 i2c i915 gmbus vga I2C adapter
i2c-2 i2c i915 gmbus panel I2C adapter
i2c-3 i2c i915 gmbus dpc I2C adapter
i2c-4 i2c i915 gmbus dpb I2C adapter
i2c-5 i2c i915 gmbus dpd I2C adapter

 

This is a model with switchable graphics cards, so make sure to set it to 'PEG' in the bios. If it's on Intel HD then i2cdump won't be able to access the panel(s), so neither iGFX nor Optimus will work (Optimus also has display output routed via HD, even if the dGPU is active).

That's also a way to prevent future edid corruption, btw; it's only 'PEG' that is a risk. A bit of a bummer, of course.

 

thanks t456, forgot to ask him (and check) if there was any peg...

 

Hello. I have an Alienware 17 r1. I have 8 beeps and a black screen. With fn + power on, I can sometimes start a laptop via HDMI. Installed Unlocked bios in order to see the PEG. By default, this Bios shows SG.
I launched a Linux image. sudo i2cdump finds only my projector Nec, which is connected via HDMI. Why I don’t see a damaged lcd panel (LP173WF1-TLB3)? Help me please.

How can I do everything right? Thanks.

 

Hello. What is ur method? Thanks.

 

Curious if any kind soul could perhaps help me here. I was able to purchase a used Alienware 17 (2015) for 60$ ! lol. From a guy who had inherited it from a friend and didn't really know what it was/it was missing a handful of components etc. Anyways, long story short, have the dreaded dead lcd panel. I was super thankful to find this thread and the information within it. When I run the commands though I end up with a shortened list of my bus info without any panel of whatnot in it. Would this suggest perhaps the lcd cable itself is damaged or unseated? I have no idea of the history of this laptop so I can only guess if the panel is bricked. But does the info not showing up on my scan suggest perhaps just the lcd cable? Any info or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hi and welcome to the community. Sounds like you may have obtained that for a great price if it has nothing serious wrong with it.

LCD cable sounds like a good place to start. Are you getting the 8 beeps?

 

Thanks so much for your reply Mr. Fox


I do in fact get the 8 beeps, but only if I connect via hdmi to an external display. I have learned to get over that by pressing my power button for 10 seconds, which usually allows me to boot to windows 10 (I installed this myself). If I boot without an external display it gives no beeps, but just black screen/dead panel. But my alienfx lights do there thing still. I can produce a white flashing lcd panel if I disconnect hdmi while in windows. Bios diagnostics test tells me "LCD EDID - unable to access EDID EEPROM" . I have the 120hz 3d panel. Sadly though, i just updated the bios and it now does not detect my 180w AC charger for some reason and I have essentially no battery :/ i'll keep on trying, but damn.

 

You're welcome. I was the first in this community that fell victim to this debacle, so I feel your pain.

*** Windows 10 + NVIDIA WHQL Drivers are Killing Alienware and Clevo LCD Panels ***

Try reading the EDID from the laptop display with this tool in the link below, then post the code here along with the panel model/part # info from that tool. Brother @t456 is a wizard at this. He can spot if the EDID is corrupted by examining the code. If it is, the next step will be to fix it. If you cannot write to it because it is not detected, the options would be to replace it (which can be done inexpensively) or use an SPI programmer. If the EDID is not corrupted, it could be just the LCD cable is bad.

https://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm

 

hmm, the output from that tool shows only my external display (an LG tv which is connected). Does that indicate it likely simply is a cable? since I couldn't even see and EDID info with the linux environment or the supplied application. Perhaps I should take it apart again and check the other end of the cable. Or perhaps see if I can find a lcd screen just to test. I'm afraid of buying a new one and it not being the issue :/ lol

 

That is entirely possible. I'd buy the cable first before the screen, as they can fail with normal use do to frequent flexing. But, you can probably get a screen for it for around $45 to 65 on eBay. If you're going to do both and the motherboard has eDP and LVDS ports, you could upgrade the panel to 120Hz if it currently has the 60Hz LVDS panel. The Intel iGPU won't work with eDP/120Hz, but most people don't care about that anyhow.

This place is pretty good for Dell/Alienware parts, so you might see what they have in stock for your system. https://www.parts-people.com/

 

Thanks again Mr. Fox, I really appreciate you bouncing a few ideas around for me. I'll go ahead and tear it down again today. I'll report back any findings here just for future people like me who come reading. I'll go ahead and sub to your youtube channel to. Least I can do!

 

well isn't that interesting It seems like the LCD cable was out of position and frayed. So that at least gives me new avenues for repair. I actually have the 120hz 3d panel so I was hoping to not have to replace it. That would explain my issues pretty well right?

 

Yep. Cable got pinched and probably damaged. Time to replace it.

 

Looks like that is the issue. You literally stole that machine if that is all that was wrong with it, LOL.

 

Hello guys (and girls),

i'll try to make it short. I have a friend who brought me his M17-R4 with a dead screen and 8 beeps. I quickly found these threads about Win 10 / EDID / EVGA Precision and other Dell threads with hardware failures (lcd, cable, gpu, etc.). External display did not work as well (although I did not know that I had to press any key combination). Trying to re-plug the lcd cable or to stick it into the other port didn't really help aswell and since he didn't need it anymore we soon decided to sell it instead of trying to replace part by part.

Yesterday, before mounting it all together (ripped out keyboard, ssds, battery and so on...) I just removed the CMOS battery for some seconds and while doing that I read anywhere, that I should press the FN key without release through startup (I think it was for getting into some service menu? no clue...) Well, I tried that and forgot to insert the CMOS battery before, which it quitted with five beeps. After that, I inserted the battery and tried again with the FN key during startup - again five (or six ?!) beeps and - of course - black screen with backlight on.
But after rebooting again without pressing the FN key now, the display magically turned on and told me, that the PSU is too weak (180W), which is true. But I was able to get into BIOS again.

I assumed this was just coincidence and whilst the notebook was running I tried to manipulate the display cable, knocked on the backside of the still fully mounted display unit and moved the display to make sure, this was not a mechanical issue (I guess, a possible cold start bug is not an issue on this modern machines anymore, is it?).

Sooo, what have I done and why has this worked and what has my friend done (he upgraded to Win 10 months ago and can't remember having EVGA Precision) and finally what have I to do now that this won't happen again?

Or just sell this crap as long as it works and replace it by an MSI GT series or XMG which have worked fine for me for soo many years now? Sorry, but according to this thread, this behaviour from the manufacturers seems to be a joke...

 

well, just an update on my situation ( I like to think I can help future people just like me who wind up here reading this). I went ahead and replaced my lcd cable that appeared visibly damaged. No such luck. Still leaves me in the exact same position as before. I cannot read any EDID info using the supplied tools, and I have 8 beeps at startup, and a white flashing display when I disconnect my hdmi. I want to proceed with the panel replacement, but before I make a costly repair. Is there anything i'm potentially missing?

 

Hey everyone, I had this issue back in 2016. I ended up getting a new screen and reinstalling windows 7 and all has been fine. My question now though is, is it safe to install just Windows 10 yet? With MS discontinuing windows 7 and for a couple other reason I really want to upgrade to 10. Obviously I will never let the precisionX software touch my system. Seeing as mine was fine on 10 until the day I installed PrecisionX, I'm guess I should be fine but just haven't been willing to risk it yet.
My system is the 17 R1 I believe. Nvidia 880M, i7-4710, 16gb RAM.
Thanks!

 

Win10 is fine, just do it!

 

I've had a white flashing screen on my M17x R4 from a dead GPU, swapped in a good GPU and all was good. Your case may be different but I thought I'd share this.

 

If not already on the list of affected panels, I recently fixed a bad checksum EDID on a "LP156WF6 (SP) (B1)" panel from a Metabox/Clevo P650RS-G, interesteingly it's a 2014 panel in a 2017 laptop.

The panel would display during boot but not work with intel integraded GPU.

 

Thanks for sharing. And yes, Clevo sometimes uses old batches in new models. It'd be one of the offered panels and probably the stock option; a tad middle-of-the-road.

Can you upload or copy/paste both edids? It wasn't on the list yet and I might not have that particular WF6 model. Do have two ' LGD046F' edids, but can't narrow these down beyond ' LP156WF6-SPxx'.

 

Here is the working EDID from my "LP156WF6 (SP) (B1)".

 

Ok , it was one of the LGD046F's. Updated archive and list:

archive correct edids, v13.7z

Spoiler

Code:

pnp id  notes   interf  panel nr.      edid eeprom
------- -----   ------  -------------  -------------------
APP9CC3 !       LVDS    LP133WX3-TLA3
AUO10ED !       LVDS    B156HW01 V0
AUO11ED         LVDS    B156HW01 V1
AUO12ED         eDP     B156HAN01.2
AUO149D !       LVDS    B173HW01 V4
AUO149E !       LVDS    B173RW01 V4
AUO159D         LVDS    B173HW01 V5
AUO219D !       LVDS    B173HW02 V1
CMO1719         LVDS    N173O6-L02
CMO1720 !       LVDS    N173HGE-L11
CMO1726 !       LVDS    N173HGE-L21
HWP3122 M       LVDS    LM240WU8-SLA* or LTM240CL01
LGD01CA         LVDS    LP173WD1-TLA1
LGD0226         LVDS    LP173WD1-TLC2
LGD0285         LVDS    LP173WF1-TLC1
LGD0289         LVDS    LP173WD1-TLA3
LGD02C5 X       eDP     LP173WF2-TPA1
LGD02DA !       LVDS    LP173WF1-TLB3
LGD02FC C       LVDS    LP173WF3-SLB2
LGD0343         LVDS    LP173WF1-TLB5
LGD037E !       LVDS    LP156WF4-SLB5
LGD0391         LVDS    LP173WD1-TLE1
LGD03FB         LVDS    LP173WF1-TL**
LGD0469 E       eDP     LP173WF4-SPF1
LGD046C E       eDP     LP173WF4-SPD1
LGD046F !       eDP     LP156WF6-SPB1
MEI96A2         eDP     VVX16T020G00
SDC3654         LVDS    LTN173KT03-W01
SDC4852         eDP     LTN156FL02-L01
SDC4C48 !       LVDS    LTM184HL01-C01
SEC314A         LVDS    LTN184HT03-001
SEC4A4B         LVDS    LTN184KT01-J01
SEC5044 !?AWX   eDP     LTN173HT01-301  Winbond 25X20BLNIG
SEC5044 !?AWX   eDP     LTN173HT02-D**  Winbond 25X20BLNIG
SEC5044 !AX     eDP     LTN173HT02-D02  "" ?
SEC5044 AX      eDP     LTN173HT02-P01  "" ?
SEC5044 AX      eDP     LTN173HT02-T01  "" ?
SEC5443         LVDS    LTN170CT08-D01
SEC5448 !       LVDS    LTN184HT02-S01
SEC544B B       LVDS    LTN173KT01-***
SEC544B BD      LVDS    LTN140KT**-***
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
!  = known bricked panels
!? = bricked, but unknown which one
*  = unknown part id
A  = highly suspect: multiple variants exist, perhaps the others are safe ...
B  = multiple variants, flash the correct one!
C  = EliteBook 8**0w DreamColor, 10-bit, for fun ^^
D  = 14.0" version for M14x, just in case
E  = G-Sync approved panel, only with the 'right' edids (75 Hz)
M  = desktop monitor (HP EliteDisplay E241i)
W  = write-protect possible
X  = 256-byte edid; use write-edid-256.sh instead of write-edid.sh

If multiple edids exist for one PnP id; flash the most recent edid, unless indicated otherwise.
For all LVDS panels; write-protect is possible using an edid-bypass mod (tinyurl.com/hwcusx6),
after doing so no further bricks can occur, regardless of Windows 10, EVGA or any other software.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Do you happen to have saved the corrupt edid as well? It claims to be an eDP model whereas most known bricks were LVDS, so it's quite a rarity.

 

I thought I had erased the ubuntu drive but I hadn't yet. Here is the corrupt EDID. bin attached also

Spoiler: BAD EDID in text

Extracted contents:
header: 00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00
serial number: 30 e4 6f 04 00 00 00 00 10 18
version: 01 04
basic params: 95 22 13 78 ea
chroma info: dc 95 a3 58 55 a0 26 0d 50 54
established: 00 00 00
standard: 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
descriptor 1: 2e 36 80 a0 70 38 1f 40 30 20 35 00 58 c2 10 00 00 1a
descriptor 2: 52 2b 80 a0 70 38 1f 40 30 20 35 00 58 c2 10 00 00 1a
descriptor 3: 00 00 00 fe 00 33 38 37 34 59 80 31 35 36 57 46 36 0a
descriptor 4: 00 00 00 00 00 00 41 31 9e 00 10 00 00 0a 01 0a 20 20
extensions: 00
checksum: 92

Manufacturer: LGD Model 46f Serial Number 0
Made week 16 of 2014
EDID version: 1.4
Digital display
6 bits per primary color channel
DisplayPort interface
Maximum image size: 34 cm x 19 cm
Gamma: 2.20
DPMS levels: Standby Suspend Off
Supported color formats: RGB 4:4:4, YCrCb 4:4:4
First detailed timing is preferred timing
Established timings supported:
Standard timings supported:
Detailed mode: Clock 138.700 MHz, 344 mm x 194 mm
1920 1968 2000 2080 hborder 0
1080 1083 1088 1111 vborder 0
+hsync -vsync
Detailed mode: Clock 110.900 MHz, 344 mm x 194 mm
1920 1968 2000 2080 hborder 0
1080 1083 1088 1111 vborder 0
+hsync -vsync
ASCII string: 3874Y
Manufacturer-specified data, tag 0
Checksum: 0x92 (should be 0x82)
EDID block does NOT conform to EDID 1.3!
Missing name descriptor
Missing monitor ranges
Detailed block string not properly terminated
EDID block does not conform at all!
Block has broken checksum

 

Thank you !!!!
Me love you long time...my Ranger 60hz screen

 

There might be a newer post from @t456 in this thread, but this is the one I bookmarked and one many have used for fixing bricked displays. It should have your M18x EDID. Post #576 (above) has an updated EDID archive if that is all you are looking for.

 

Thank you kindly. I have already downloaded the linux distro given in the thread, I've already picked up the EEPROM flasher (still waiting for the 1.8V adapter to work with my P4000M), but in my glee end extasy I forgot to order the ribbon clamp. So a few more days unless my father finds his old clamp he used years back for CCTV stuff.

 

You're welcome . Just for kicks, save the EDID currently on the display for comparison after flashing.

 

Will do. Standard procedure, never skipping that step since I've bricked my M6100 and couldn't roll back

 

Yes, it's good to do it for that reason as well... most definitely. But, comparing them with a hex editor to see what got changed or corrupted in the original EDID could be interesting. Back when these EDID corruption threads and the associated chaos were active, Brother @t456 was looking at the chip dumps that way.

 

Sure thing. Thought as much - finding the issue, however long it might have been since the first outing Will gladly contribute to the idea.

 

Ok, almost ready to proceed with everything, just a question on the method - which chip is the EDID in M18X? Panel model is LTN184T05-T01, wondering if I have to heatgun the bezel off, r just access it from beyond the plastic film covering it, or can I mangle an old LVDS cable and use that as an access cable? If the last one, which wires to which nodes?

 

Look for small 8-pin chips (TSSOP8). This is from a different model, but they all look similar:

Spoiler: CMN1735 - N173HGE-E11 - edid eeproms

Spoiler: CMN1735 - N173HGE-E11 - eeprom programmer

With that panel there's two eeproms; the U11 and the U12. Usually it's just the single chip, but with two it's best to program both since each contains an edid copy and, being daisy-chained, the system can see both and you can't know which one is read first.

The round ' SCL'/clock, ' SDA'/data, ' GND2'/ground and ' WP'/write-protect pads above the U12 are a nice giveaway too; these were used to contact-program the blank eeprom at the factory and are usually pretty close to the eeprom(s). You can also use these to solder wires that hook to your programmer and flash them without needing to desolder.

Mind what you're getting into; the edid is only a small part of the firmware and is merely an information sheet for the platform that will be driving the panel. Most of the data is functional code though and can be corrupted merely by reading them out with incorrect, eeprom-specific parameters set by the programmer. With bioses and vbioses that's of little concern since you might fetch a pristine copy from elsewhere, but hardly anyone reads out full panel firmwares, so backup copies are very hard to find.

Modding an LVDS cable might indeed prove more feasible than soldering wires or desoldering the eeprom(s). Pins 1 + 4 through 7 can be used for that:



The corruption risks are still the same; run-of-the-mill, consumer-type programmers cannot be expected to have settings for such obscure chips included in their embedded database. That means detectiving and/or gambling to set it to closely-matching parameters and hope for the best.

Since the M18X has been proven to work with the linux software tools that'd be a much safer choice and guaranteed success. That is, provided the white-screen issue really is due to edid corruption and not something mechanical, like a broken wire in the lcd cable or some-such.

The hot-swap method invented by @Mr. Fox has worked perfectly for a good many users. Only thing is that you'd need a compatible, working panel in order to get the system to boot to linux (then change in the bricked panel and flash it).

Can't find an exact specification sheet, but it appears to be a 40-pin wled. You could do a pin count and measure the connector's full width in mm; divide that by the pin count and you'll also have the pin pitch. There's scores of 40-pin LVDS panels in the 17.3" department and these'll work just as well on an 18.4" system. This $19 N173O6-L02 appears quite promising and you could also check other laptops you may have access to and borrow a panel from there.

 

The thing is I have only one 18 inch and a bunch of 17 and 15 inch screens, coming from Ranger, M15XR2, two from M17XR2 and two (including one 3D) from M17XR3/4. I tried one, don't remember exactly which one, but got 8 beeps only. Any of these could work? I was thinking about a hotswap at some point, but was a bit sceptical about the risks.

Tried a cable swap, but results were identical. Unless it's a mobo issue (which I'm not ruling out), some evidence points to EDID.

 

Yes, it is possible one of those might work as long as it is the same LVDS connector. See what @t456 said above. The obvious exception is the 3D panel. I believe that is an eDP panel.

 

Good day to everyone! Glad this topic isn't closed.
I try to revert to stock because my notebook with Nvidia GPU shows broken screen in 3D application after a sleep or a monitor off power saving option when monitor is set to high Hz modes (EDID's 88 and 100 Hz of reduced and 96Hz mode created by Nvidia Control Panel). I don't recall this happening with AMD GPU.

I used latest edid-rw and it did not see the EDID from bus 1 address 50 while it is proven it exists there. I also used older version of edid-rw successfully from Nov 23 2015 though. I opened an issue just in case on Github.

For some reason it only writes the first byte and that's it. Is there a way to bypass this somehow? Thanks!

Code:

mint edid-rw # cd /home/mint/EDID/write-edid
mint write-edid # sudo bash ./write-edid.sh 1 EDID.bin
Writing byte 0x00 to bus 1, chip-adress 0x50, data-adress 0x00
Writing done, here is the output of i2cdump -y 1 0x50:
No size specified (using byte-data access)
     0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  a  b  c  d  e  f    0123456789abcdef
00: 00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00 0d af 20 17 00 00 00 00    ........?? ?....
10: 01 15 01 04 90 26 15 78 1a d8 95 a3 55 4d 9d 27    ?????&?x????UM?'
20: 0f 50 54 00 00 00 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01    ?PT...??????????
30: 01 01 01 01 01 01 2e 36 80 a0 70 38 1f 40 30 20    ??????.6??p8?@0
40: 35 00 e0 0e 11 00 00 18 55 41 80 a0 70 38 25 40    5.???..?UA??p8%@
50: 30 20 35 00 e0 0e 11 00 00 18 cb 4b 80 58 70 38    0 5.???..??K?Xp8
60: 12 40 18 20 35 00 e0 0e 11 00 00 1e 20 56 80 58    ?@? 5.???..? V?X
70: 70 38 12 40 18 20 35 00 e0 0e 11 00 00 1e 00 98    p8?@? 5.???..?.?

 

Is the system in pure dGPU mode? If Optimus/Enduro is active then the edid is not read directly (and cannot be written to).

The .sh is pre-set for 128 bytes already, but if the address being written to in only one byte in size then you'd expect this kind of behaviour.

If it is indeed in dGPU already then one thing you could do is set the script's delay a bit higher than the current '0.1s':

Code:

    count=$((count+1))
    # sleep a moment
    sleep 0.1s
  done
done

Eeproms have pre-set 'pause' between writes and are read-only during that time, so perhaps the delay needs to be a bit set a longer for this particular chip.

Could also try the pre-built usb image just in case it has different versions of the prerequisite tools. The download link still appears to work.

 

Hello all, this will be my first post. I am as frustrated as everyone else with this.

Dell Alienware MX-17 R4 3D
Black screen and 8 beeps... I've tried all solutions offered on this site and many others, to no avail.

Quick question.... Can I just buy an identical lcd panel, hook it all back up and then boot into safe mode or straight into the bios, thereby, not loading the precision x etc.... Then edit the system to use basic graphics until I remove the corrupt files? Or would it just corrupt the new screen as well regardless, on boot?

Thanks. V

 

Hi. Yes, you can install another identical screen, then boot into Safe Mode and uninstall Precision X (or delete the folder it is installed in).

 

Awesome, thank you. I was going to pick up this one ( https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Dell-Al...-V-M-LCD-Screen-DP-N-DHCG2-GN36T/273644412867). What do you think? It has all of the correct inputs aside from one. The one with the small circuit board attached to it (picture link below) that plugs into the motherboard. Does this just unplug from the back of the old lcd and plug into the new one? https://gofile.io/d/4E7W74

 

After tracing the unknown cable back underneath the LCD lid... I found the real issue!! Wow, didn't expect this.... https://gofile.io/d/unqvKe

 

Oh man, that is really bad. Looks like it may be time to retire that faithful old beast. Sorry it turned out that way. At least you did not already buy a new screen.

I will have to add that image to my Alienware Fire Hazards photo album.

 

Whoa. This looks nasty. Although before writing it off I would suggest swapping a screen to a compatible one and checking if the mobo is ok. This seems like the Shutter Sync chip blew up, if it works on a 60Hz eDP screen then the machine may be fine.

 

Thank you for the reply.

I ordered that screen anyway. This was on the LCD panel itself and it looks like one of the diodes popped, so maybe it is a one off (for a while lol). The rest of the system seems to be functioning normally, it just can't find the LCD. so, hopefully a replacement screen will do the trick. Or do you think this is a systemic issue that will return?

 

Hard to say. My impression is that it is a one-off anomaly and not something that is likely to happen again. Although, it is difficult to know based on a photo.

 

Something caused that scorching. We can hope that it was just a faulty diode (which is likely, granted), but one can never forget that in many cases such behaviour can be an indicator of a cascade of problems. Just keep your eyes peeled for any other strange behaviours

 

Hi I've got a question. I own a clevo p650hp6-g with a LP156WF6SPBQ (LG D046F) LCD screen attached to it. After a Windows update, I got a black screen when using mshybrid, or my screen freezes after logging in / or at the login screen when I update the Nvidia graphics in discrete mode. Using-DiscreteMode and older nvidia drivers (388.75), the screen actually works... But some games fail to load as they need the newer drivers..

Upon inspecting the devices in device manager in Windows 10, it seems that I get a generic non-pnp monitor, instead of the laptop screen model (or generic PNP).

Upon inspecting the EDID with monitor asset manager, it seems the EDID got corrupted. I'm now trying to flash the correct EDID using the usb lubuntu tool, but it doesn't seem to detect my smbus when I probe it.

It says:

Do you want to probe the I2C/SMBUS adaptors now (YES/no): y
Found unknown SMBus adapter 8086:a123 at 0000:00:1f.4.
Sorry, no supported PCI Bus adapters were found

Anyone know how to fix this?