Is there a video on how to upgrade the WIFI Card?

Is there a video that shows you how to upgrade the Wifi card on a Clevo laptop?


What I am not sure about is, how to connect the antenna cables back

 

well, it's 2 or 3 connectors with same independant antenna. it is not a problem to switch main/aux connectors

 

A lot of wireless cards will have some kind of marking letting you know where to put the white and black cables back on to. There is just the two connection points on them (most wireless cards have just two), and usually the two cables for the antennas will still keep to the side they were originally attached to. Most antenna cables won't move around a lot once you remove the wireless card.

 

Can you hook me up with a video from a system that you guys are building please?

 

Possibly, not sure. I could probably use the video for a review of that model, just not sure how quickly I might have a chance to get to that. I'll let you know if I can get around to that soonish.

 

Take a picture of the stock WiFi card before you remove it, then reference said picture when you go to put the new one in.

 

This is always a good idea to do.

 

Use the manual service of your laptop, you can find it on prema site. it show for you how a wifi look, where it is and how to replace it.

 

Sometimes the connectors are marked with a white and black triangle, designating where the white and black cables go respectively (the triangles are on the sticker, not printed on the PCB). If your card doesn't denote things this way, it should label each connector as "1" and "2", or as "Main" and "Aux"...

1/Main = White
2/Aux = Black

Sorry, no video to post. You won't damage anything by putting the connectors in the wrong spots, though you'll get a very poor signal - if the card works at all, in which case you just reverse the connections and double check the seating.

 

@Mr. Fox


what really scared me is how to put those antenna cables back, like do you attach them and then screw them or they have a separate place to be connected to?

 

They just snap on. Very simple connection as long as you tilt your head slightly back and to the left.

 

Indeed, just take a moment to line them up It should not need a ton a force.

 

If it helps, this video shows someone replacing a wireless card. Not the model you have, but still walks you through the steps.

 

I used to hate connecting those u.fl/IPEX antennae. Once you get a feel for them, though... well, they're still kind of annoying, but far less so. Definitely do not apply a lot of force. You can break the ring on the card where the antennae secure to, which will prevent the antennae from snapping into place ever again.

 

I suppose of all the connectors you could break, it's one of the easiest and cheapest replacements.

 

Biggest thing is just don't power on without the antennas plugged in -- its high chance to ruin wifi cards with no antenna...

 

Really? I did not know that. I have actually run WiFi cards with no antenna many times and nothing has ever been messed up. Maybe I just got lucky over and over again.

Not disputing what you say, only asking how and why, since they are antennas that capture a radio signal rather than carry current. Not sure I understand how that might result in damage to the WiFi card.

 

@wbsgrepit - I'm also curious why this would be.

 

It is a factor of the device output power as to how likely it is to damage the card. It is the same concept as RC transmitters or ham equipment (but at a different scale obviously). Low power devices are less likely to burn out, but I have had even sub 10mw devices fail. The issue is without antennas attached the device is unloaded and causes reflected standing waves -- putting a ton of stress on the amp circuitry. Mind you, this is an issue for basically any device that has an antenna + amplifier (including AP's and desktop cards).

RSW damage usually presents as permanent dramatically reduced transmit/receive power.

The recommendation is if you need to run without an antenna that you set/save the power output to the lowest possible setting first, then power off and remove the antenna. Even with this procedure there are more than a few cards on the market that actually power on at full (or even higher than documented full) power and then reset down to the set power after boot/driver attach. Some devices have extra circuitry to help protect against an unloaded antenna, but at the expense of permanent VSWR reuctions.

Here is an example link from cisco:
Q. If you operate the radio but do not attach the antenna, can you damage the radio?

Edited to add that the reverse is also true, you can damage the cards by putting too large of an antenna passive on.

 

That's an interesting read, cheers.

 

That's interesting...My Wi-Fi card in my desktop has been antenna-less for almost a year and no issues.

 

It's going to depend on the design of the chip, the frequencies in use and the transmit power. The chip could take measures to save itself.

 

@wbsgrepit - Thanks for that! Interesting info.

 

Yes, I agree. I'm glad I asked @wbsgrepit for more explanation... very enlightening. Thank you for sharing that info. I might still do it again sometime anyway, in spite of the risk. But, knowing there could be implications or some element of risk beforehand is always a good thing... much better than being an ignorant bull in a china cabinet, LOL.

 

I upgraded the WLAN card, removing the antennas / replacing them was much easier than I though, they just clip on easily

 

I knew you could do it!

 

So how does the Killer chip fare off against the Intel 8260 so far?

 

At home

Intel AC8260 Speed test.net:

97 MBPS Down / 20.1 MBPS Up

Ping = 4ms

Killer 1535 Speed test.net:

107 MBPS Down / 20.MBPS Up

Ping = 6ms

Never had a single disconnection ever with the Intel AC8260 but the with the Killer 1535 I had one disconnection only at home and when I go to the cafe at night that I usually visit, it keeps disconnection from their TP-Link router. They seem to have a crappy router but with my Intel AC8260 it never disconnected even there

I don't know what to make of this really, a few people kept telling me how great the Killer AC1535 is and that the Intel AC8260 has lags or spikes in games which I don't know what that means, yet, the Intel is more stable and has a lower ping rate on speedtest.net

What do you think @downloads @Ethrem

I am confused which one to use.

PS: Yes I did the latest drivers from Clevo and the latest drivers from Killer, also tried installing drivers only and the entire suite.

 

It's hard to judge with speedtest.net as there are quite a few variables.

 

Yeah, thats why when i did my tests, they were after a fresh firmware flash. And with no other device on the network or using the internet.

Also i dont know how many would be interested in this but, on the ASUS AC66U, my intel performs better with the Merlini's Firmware, but the Killer performs better with DDWRT.
Not sure what up, but the WHAT router and WHICH firmware seems to matter a lot.
Both chips intermittently perform poorly on a basic Netgear AC750 router.($75 or something)

 

Don't use speedtest.net - testmy.net with a 200MB file size.

It's well known that the Killer cards are not so killer...

My Note 5 actually matches my 7260... I have a 150/20 connection and both peak around 180/25

 

Your router starts to matter a lot at the higher speeds too.

 

Indeed. I have a Trendnet AC1750 router. Your standard N router... Good luck.

 

Yeah I have an ASUS AC router to help sustain the transfers.

 

Netgear R7500 router here... My Interwebs connection is 50/10Mbps sadly and not going up soon... Router should be good enough for now!

 

Mine is supposed to be 80/20 but the line has just been getting worse. I should hopefully be moving soon so as long as it stays up i'll deal with it for now.

 

I think you all would hate where I live. 12/1.5 is my max I can get, and it's painful. But, this summer... a new company opens up with 100/100 (for like $10 more than I'm paying now) or gigabit through fiber. Finally something to put my wireless card to the test.

It's long to be a long few months of waiting.

 

theres some interesting reads out there about how far the killer has come:

http://techreport.com/review/29144/revisiting-the-killer-nic-eight-years-on

I think the advantage to the new killer products was 2x2 MU-MIMO if you have the required hardware (router, etc)

 

Don't worry, I used to use dial up till 2008 and then had 512kbps broadband.. It became 1Mbps after complaining a lot and eventually before I moved to this place became 6Mbps.. Know the feeling better than anyone.. Hope you get sorted soon

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

The broadband system in the US is pretty terrible, I know it's a large area but the system for competition (or the lack thereof) just encourages slow speeds.

 

It's just as bad here.. BT owns Openreach who own all the Fibre Network and Openreach is being slow as hell as there is no reason for them to be faster in rolling it out... It's frustrating as the UK has the potential to reach decent speeds.. It is getting a bit better but unless Openreach is spun off from BT, progress will be slow since they literally have a monopoly..

 

Very true, luckily in the SF bay comcast isn't enforcing any download limits so things are bearable, but in some states where people are stuck with a provider like TWM then its just excruciating.