NP5165 Screen Replacement Help

I broke the original screen from my Sager NP5165. Looking to replace it with a 95% gamut screen I found an original AUO B156HW01 v.4; however, when I got everything apart my 40 pin connector is on the wrong side.

My original screen is a LG LP156WF1 (TL) (E1) with the connector being on the right side (facing the back of the screen). The AUO is on the left.

Is there any way to get the AUO to work? If not do you guys know if a 95% gamut screen was made with this configuration that will work? I believe the option to upgrade to the 95% gamut screen was available when I ordered the laptop from xotix back in 2011,just not positive.

Thanks
Jonathan

 

You merely need a 40-pin, 0.5mm pitch extension cable. The V4 might've been the original as well; W150HR came with two 40-pin LVDS cables, one's 241mm and the other 345mm, 6-43-B51M1- 020-A and 6-43-B51M1- 010-A, respectively.

Nice panel . Ran it yet? No need to mount, just place down on keyboard and upon towel. Test it first, brightness control especially; interface is slightly different. The B156HTN01.1 is a closer match to the E1, so it's possible that it's the original factory model (there was indeed a 95% gamut option). Scratch that; Service Manual lists all factory options. An unusually vast selection ( twelve !!!!):

Spoiler: Clevo W150HR - panel options

 

Awesome, thanks for the help. I tried looking for the LVDS 40-pin flat connector cable on ebay/amazon but can't seem to come up with anything. Is this something I'm probably going to have to source from laptopscreen.com?

EDIT: Ok so tried chatting with laptopscreen.com rep and he says they don't sell the cables. Going to try xotic or keep searching on ebay.

 

Weird, it's listed on their site (for $8.24) ... Xotic's unlikely, but with any luck they'll carry the original 010 cable, but that would be several times the cost of a simple extender cable. Ebay's the cheapest option ($2.54). It's too long for your situation, but you fold it back anyway. Instruction video's pretty good, even if they don't want to sell the cable itself ...

 

Wow, no idea why the customer service guy doesn't think they have it. Thanks again, just grabbed http://www.ebay.com/itm/291441055532 we'll see how it does.

 

So I got the cable I ordered off ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/291441055532). It was barely long enough to reach to the right side connector on the new screen and still fold over as instructed, but I was able to get it. Put everything back together and booted it up, and all I'm getting is a blank white screen.

I tried the extension cable with my old screen, same outcome (before I could at least see part of the windows screen through the cracks). I then tried the new screen plugged directly in to the original connector like you said, and it's working perfectly (typing on it now). The colors/brightness looks amazing compared to the original screen btw.

Is it possible I got a bad cable, or need one with different pins or longer? The cable seems very finicky where the connection is to the original plug end. I have to hold it just perfectly just to get the screen to light up white, like the connection may be bad there or something. It appears to line up correctly and the right # of pins it just doesn't feel like it wants to make a solid connection to the stock connector.

Thanks again for the help.

EDIT:
I didn't notice it before, but in the description of the cable I bought:

1 x 10.1" 15.6" 1366 x 768 LED LCD Screen Converter Cable

Even though it's for a 15.6" screen, would the resolution be the issue and I need to get one for a 17.3" screen?

 

Yes, 768p is a single-channel type (less wires/pins). You need 900p or more, usually listed as 'FHD' or 1080p. The 10"/15.6"/17.3" are irrelevant; they're just an indication for the length of the cable. It's hard to tell from the pictures whether all 40 pins connect, the one you have now might miss several wires (768p doesn't need them). This one, at least, is full-fledged; Wholesale 17.3 Inch LED 40 pin left to right converter cable adapter 80006. Can tell easily; all wires are on the same side of the cable and there's 40 in total. Also, be careful; never push/reseat cable when it's powered on. First shut down and remove battery and dc cable.

Brightness control works, btw? Fn+key et al?

When you got it running/assembled again; might take it to a shop and compare with (IPS) models present (including MBPs). Think you'll like the result. Ah, and if the V4 was a used panel; recalibration might be in order. Blue leds especially drift (dim) with use, so the entire image shifts to red/yellow if that isn't corrected.

 

Comparing the pics from the Hong Kong ebay seller and laptopscreen.com's item 165149 (http://www.laptopscreen.com/English/section/cables/), it appears they both have the same configuration/pins. I tried calling laptopscreen.com and they are seriously about useless. They say their techs thing think it should work with a full hd screen, but have never done it before and cannot confirm. So right now it looks like either take the chance with them ($20 shipped priority), or get the one from ebay and wait a week or two to get it.

Tried every laptop repair shop in NYC as well, none of which seem to have any idea what I'm even looking for.

I tried quickly messing with the controls last night, the brightness control did not seem to work. I honestly had it hooked up for like 10 mins though so didn't really try to mess with it. Should I be expecting to have to reconfigure something or how would I be able to get that to work.

 

Yes, either is fine. Do take the 17.3" version.

For brightness there's two things; pwm frequency range and the specific pin that pwm uses. Either might not match the TLE1 (or one of the other stock options). Pwm range of the V4 is 100 Hz min. to 20 kHz max. (that's excellent, btw; easy on the eyes) and its pwm pin is #35. Couldn't find the TLE1 so fast, but perhaps you can find the pdf or one or more of the other stock panel's specification sheets.

 

Got the new cable in this afternoon, 15 minutes later and I'm back up and running. Complete night and day difference from the old screen.

I tried searching around but this is the point I become completely lost when it comes to editing the hotkeys, pwm's, etc. I recalibrated the colors through windows and can adjust the brightness through intel's control panel, but it's just by eye. Would you suggest taking it to a shop to have them calibrate it? And what would I need to edit in order to reassign the hotkey for the brightness? I'd think it's probably just changing a value/pin # in on the config files in the hotkey folder that loads, I'm just kinda lost with where to start.

 

Thanks .

Recalibration may not be necessary since it's already a wide-gamut. But it can't hurt either; there'll be some improvement for sure, extent will depend on the age of the display. If shop ask up to ~$25, then yes. Otherwise a little 'by sight' only isn't bad either; increase blue and/or dim red+green a little.

Think the brightness issue is due to different pwm range; all LP156WF1-**** models I've found also use pin #35 for backlight dim but have 1kHz for maximum brightness. The AUO is 20kHZ and there's about 10 steps ... try lowest brightness, see if there's even the tiniest of difference.

If you have a spare hdd; try a clean install for comparison. All timing values ought to be stores in the panel's EDID, but it may not be detected as a new panel by the OS (registry values); can check current values using Monitor Asset Manager (MonInfo). Alternative is to use different profiles via the gpu driver and see if these can be switched easily.