NP9150 with a 330w PSU Help

I'm looking to get more watts to my NP9150 by modding a 330w power supply from an Alienware m18x. I've found a power supply with a model# XM3C3. Is this a correct model?

Also, I understand that there is a little more work involved modding a 330w PSU than the 240w PA-9E. What needs to be done other than soldering a new plug?

 

I believe the ID chip output needs to be soldered to ground, I would recommend using a clevo supply as this is not an issue with that.

 

Ah, so the Delta ADP330AB should work? I'd still have to solder on the NP9150's smaller end right?

 

Yes but it should simply be a case of making sure the polarity to the connector is right (just like the 240W).

 

I'll see if I can track down one of those sager 330w PSU's and solder on the end from my extra 180w PSU. I have an Alienware one, but I'll save it for some other project. Hey, thanks for the info!

 

Not a problem good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

OK, just to make sure...

My NP9150's adapter is 180w with a DC Output of 19V and 9.47A

I found an adapter for the NP9377 that is 330W with a DC Output 19.5V and 16.9A. This should work, right?

 

With the new cable wired correctly into the brick yes.

 

All of my parts arrived today and I have run into another issue. I clipped the cord on the 330w PSU near the plug that would be inserted into the computer (it doesn't fit the NP9150) to see how many wires there are. I see 5--2 are white, 2 are black, and 1 is teal in color and thinner than the other 4.

I clipped the cord on the spare PSU that has the end that will fit my NP9150 and it has 2 wires in it--1 is blue and the other is just bare wire.

Which of these wires is soldered together? Can I solder the wires without having to take the 330w PSU apart or do I have to mod the board of the 330w PSU?

 

Really the best method for safety, durability and efficiency is to open the brick and unsolder the wires going into the PCB and then close it back up again.

This really is by far the best option.

 

I gotcha! I'll get them apart and go to work. I will likely shoot another message once I get them apart asking about which wires from the plug that fits my NP9150 are soldered into the 330w PSU. Thanks for the help so far!

 

Read the polarity diagram on the brick and use a multimeter to check which bit is connected to what side of the barrel. Do not get it wrong double check the polarity with the multi meter before plugging it in.

 

Thanks for that. I got all the soldering work finished and the unit has power and seems to run fine when I plug it in. One last question. This 330w psu has several more amps than the 180w psu my np9150 came with, is that okay? I would think the extra amps will ruin my computer.

 

You wanted more watts, right? Well, that extra 150W has to come from somewhere. If not in additional voltage then in amps. Since voltage is the same (most adapters are 19-19.5V), this means that amperes will necessarily be higher;

W=V*A

This results in 150W/19.5V = 7.7A extra juice available. And that's perfectly all right; the PSU rating is a maximum rating, not a constant load. Your system's setup and usage will determine how much it'll drain from the power outlet, could get one of those gadgets to see what'll be its maximum power consumption.

 

You're preaching to the choir with watts amps and volts. It's obvious that amps in this case would increase with the desired watts. But thanks for the bit about maximum and constant. I wasn't 100% certain there and it's prudent to get extra info from you guys. I'll give this modded psu a trial tomorrow and see how it goes.

BTW loved your sig. It's great to see people with old Latitudes! I myself have an old Precision M60 that's still in great shape

 

Your unit won't draw up to the full amount anyway, the power circuitry would over heat.

 

Haha , paid $3050 for the WUXGA version, inflation adjusted. Your M60 is exactly the same, except different (and replaceable) gpu. But cost was irrelevant, it was the only 1920x1200 at the time and therefor the only laptop that could run AutoCAD with sufficient working area (toolbars took up 50%+ of the run-of-the-mill systems).

 

I've been running the new psu the whole day and into this evening. The brick and the plug barely get warm--even after stressing them and running benchmarks! I can't identify any ill side-effects of this mod. I've seen my bench scores for both my processor and GPU go up so I'm pretty sure my old psu couldn't supply the watts necessary for overclocking. I'm extremely pleased with the results and this new psu will be my permanent one from now on.

Hey t456, I think I will be updating my sig with my 2 old laptops...

 

Doing it properly gives a nice bit of overhead as while the 5.5x2.5 is rated for 180W it's capable of more in reality.