Hello good folks!
I just upgraded my laptop with an MSI gtx 1060, and all went well and successfully booted. But I have stuttering and gpu not recognized. I did a DDU cleaned nvidia drivers, have no other drivers installed atm.
Here is the picture of my BIOS, Prema v2.
Here is a pic of my bios
Edit: on device manage the display adaptors shows "microsoft basic display adapter"
How do I fix this?
thanks!
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Thanks prema, works great now! My gtx 1060 is showing up
Btw in your last step the NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL -> CHANGE RESOLUTION -> “USE NVIDIA COLOR SETTINGS” is not changing to nvidia colour settings, it goes back to default. This wasn't the case with my last gpu. Can I fix this?
I googled it and there is a way to change the Output dynamic range from limited to full but I dont have that.
edit: one more thing it still shows as unknown in BIOS. Maybe thats normal. -
I have another issue, I get really bad temperatures, 90+ degrees on idle.
Got the 780m heatsink.
Last edited: Jun 12, 2018 -
The GPU die has a lesser height, hence it needs a shim soldered to your heatsink otherwise you will suffer from high temperatures.
Unknown in BIOS is normal, the GPU is not detected in premas BIOS as a known GPU.KY_BULLET likes this. -
also would bad thermal pad layout cause this heat issue? -
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Allright, I will try with 1mm and what is a good temp on idle? just so I know if it's working.
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Not detecting and supporting new GPUs without driver Mod is normal for the public Mods. -
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Nobody does timespy, do firestrike instead.
What tim are you using?
I just made a benchmark on my P375SM-A https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15718154
Max temp on the GTX 1060 under load 68c, average being 65. CPU @ 4.3ghz is at 72c.
EDIT: nvm ure using kryonaut.
Also that CPU is only running at 3.8ghz yet 89c, that's quite toasty.Last edited by a moderator: Jun 13, 2018 -
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Could the gpu be bad or is my heatsink bad? what could it be?
here is the fire strike https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27062063
very poor score for a 1060, 3k less than yours -
I did timespy for good measure: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/3913890
You clearly have a terrible fit somewhere. As I said, I cannot breach 70c with my GTX 1060, it's literally impossible for me. So seeing that your card is at idle temps where mine is at full load defnitely doesn't seem good. Maybe you messed up on the conduconaut, did you apply both on heatsink and shim? Like not only on shim and connect to heatsink but actually connecting 2 LM sufaces together?KY_BULLET likes this. -
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Doesn't look like its touching there, the problem is usually on the VRM part, there need to be some bits grinded out, because Dendrit3 has tons of thermal pads everywhere, those can't be helping neither the die to heatsink contact nor helping the VRM's due to such thick thermal pads..
Remove all thermal pads, remove GPU from laptop, try to fit the heatsink in the GPU, see where it its, grind/file any parts of the heatsink that touch chokes and other components until you have the heatsink laying totally flat with the die. -
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Can you take more photos all around?
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@Danishblunt He didnt use any shims thats why he had to cut it but Ive got a 1mm shim under and there is no contact with that small part -
We can use my method of figuring how the fit is.
Take a very thin layer of thermal paste on your GPU, spread it around evenly, then screw the heatsink on, after that remove the heatsink, and show us a picture of the GPU die with the thermal paste on it, that way we can see how the pressure is applied on the die. -
You should use only a very small dot of paste with doing the contact tests, so you can see a clear pattern.
What paste are you using?
is that with the cooper shim?
What is the translucent residue around the shim?
Your heatsink doesn't hit the choke like @Danishblunt expected because you have the shim. -
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I think your shim isn't making full contact with the heatsink, the shim should be free to move.
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Support.3@XOTIC PC Company Representative
Could the sealant be interfering with how much contact it makes?KY_BULLET likes this. -
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I would do so.
Then, clean everything well, put thermal paste on die, put shim, thermal paste on shim, heatsink, and screw it down, there is no way the shim will move much, if at all.KY_BULLET likes this. -
KY_BULLET likes this.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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In this pic I put a small amount and it still covered the whole surface. As you guys see the sealant isnt in the way.
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I tried to get my GPU as hot as possible, I overclocked it to the absolute max, spend 15 minutes doing Firestrike benchmarks over and over again to see how far I can push the clockspeeds of my 1060.
Currently my room temperature is 29.5c, I have no coolerpad and I tried my darnest to get this thing to 70c, couldn't do it. Given that you have a 2part heatsink and didnt do a solderjob on the shim, i'd say you should get around 74-77c at MAX with the same conditions as my P375SM. -
@Danishblunt Damn that's great temps, so tell me, would like to know how did you do it exactly? P375SM is pretty similar to the P370SM, right? perhaps better heatsink tho.
You only cut off that small part in the pic and went with thermal paste? No shims? -
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The single parts can have the VRM heatpipe shorter leaving extra fin height too.
Need help with the 1060 in my p370sm3!
Discussion in 'Sager and Clevo' started by Dendrit3, Jun 12, 2018.