Hello good folks!
I just upgraded my laptop with an MSI gtx 1060, and all went well and successfully booted. But I have stuttering and gpu not recognized. I did a DDU cleaned nvidia drivers, have no other drivers installed atm.
Here is the picture of my BIOS, Prema v2.
Here is a pic of my bios
Edit: on device manage the display adaptors shows "microsoft basic display adapter"
How do I fix this?
thanks!
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Thanks prema, works great now! My gtx 1060 is showing up
Btw in your last step the NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL -> CHANGE RESOLUTION -> “USE NVIDIA COLOR SETTINGS” is not changing to nvidia colour settings, it goes back to default. This wasn't the case with my last gpu. Can I fix this?
I googled it and there is a way to change the Output dynamic range from limited to full but I dont have that.
edit: one more thing it still shows as unknown in BIOS. Maybe thats normal. -
I have another issue, I get really bad temperatures, 90+ degrees on idle.
Got the 780m heatsink.
Last edited: Jun 12, 2018 -
The GPU die has a lesser height, hence it needs a shim soldered to your heatsink otherwise you will suffer from high temperatures.
Unknown in BIOS is normal, the GPU is not detected in premas BIOS as a known GPU.KY_BULLET likes this. -
Yeah looks like it as I just checked, as there is a small space between the gpu die and the heatsink, but how much of a shim should I get in mm?
also would bad thermal pad layout cause this heat issue? -
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Allright, I will try with 1mm and what is a good temp on idle? just so I know if it's working.
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you think 30x30x1mm is good or is it too big?
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The nv color problem is a 1803 issue...
Not detecting and supporting new GPUs without driver Mod is normal for the public Mods. -
Can you make a picture of your heatsink? I'm pretty sure your heatsink is being blocked by the little component of the 1060.
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Nobody does timespy, do firestrike instead.
What tim are you using?
I just made a benchmark on my P375SM-A https://www.3dmark.com/fs/15718154
Max temp on the GTX 1060 under load 68c, average being 65. CPU @ 4.3ghz is at 72c.
EDIT: nvm ure using kryonaut.
Also that CPU is only running at 3.8ghz yet 89c, that's quite toasty.Last edited by a moderator: Jun 13, 2018 -
I got 1803, works for me on P375SM-A with GTX 1060, but I got older 391 drivers, maybe thats why?
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Yes, it's a problem with the newer driver base on 1803...
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yeah, conductonaut between shim and heatsink, and kryonaut between gpu die and shim. It still gives me nightmare temps 95 during load, and 65 at idle. Its crazy!
Could the gpu be bad or is my heatsink bad? what could it be?
here is the fire strike https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/27062063
very poor score for a 1060, 3k less than yours -
No, heatsink. The GPU is performing bad due to the very poor temps.
I did timespy for good measure: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/3913890
You clearly have a terrible fit somewhere. As I said, I cannot breach 70c with my GTX 1060, it's literally impossible for me. So seeing that your card is at idle temps where mine is at full load defnitely doesn't seem good. Maybe you messed up on the conduconaut, did you apply both on heatsink and shim? Like not only on shim and connect to heatsink but actually connecting 2 LM sufaces together?KY_BULLET likes this. -
The first arrow, some cut that part of the heatsink because it does stop the heatsink from working properly.
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You think that would make a difference? Should I try and cut if off? Doubt if it will make a huge difference
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If you're not willing to try then you can always enjoy 95c gameplay.
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Doesn't look like its touching there, the problem is usually on the VRM part, there need to be some bits grinded out, because Dendrit3 has tons of thermal pads everywhere, those can't be helping neither the die to heatsink contact nor helping the VRM's due to such thick thermal pads..
Remove all thermal pads, remove GPU from laptop, try to fit the heatsink in the GPU, see where it its, grind/file any parts of the heatsink that touch chokes and other components until you have the heatsink laying totally flat with the die. -
It does touch there. Also clevo heatsinks are very barebones, you dont need to grind off anything unlike MSI heatsinks, you need to use very fat thermal pads or stack them for them to even touch VRMs.
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Can you take more photos all around?
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some more pictures around it
@Danishblunt He didnt use any shims thats why he had to cut it but Ive got a 1mm shim under and there is no contact with that small part -
We can use my method of figuring how the fit is.
Take a very thin layer of thermal paste on your GPU, spread it around evenly, then screw the heatsink on, after that remove the heatsink, and show us a picture of the GPU die with the thermal paste on it, that way we can see how the pressure is applied on the die. -
You should use only a very small dot of paste with doing the contact tests, so you can see a clear pattern.
What paste are you using?
is that with the cooper shim?
What is the translucent residue around the shim?
Your heatsink doesn't hit the choke like @Danishblunt expected because you have the shim. -
Yeah I smeared a little bit too much, using kryonaut, can redo it later. Yeah it's with copper shim. If you check my post at second page, I sealed the edges of the shim with a transparent sealant, put LM between the shim and the heatsink, to prevent leakage
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I think your shim isn't making full contact with the heatsink, the shim should be free to move.
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Support.3@XOTIC PC Company Representative
Could the sealant be interfering with how much contact it makes?KY_BULLET likes this. -
You guys suggesting to remove the sealant?
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I would do so.
Then, clean everything well, put thermal paste on die, put shim, thermal paste on shim, heatsink, and screw it down, there is no way the shim will move much, if at all.KY_BULLET likes this. -
No it was fine, the contact is absolutely bad. In my heatsink almost all the thermal paste gets pushed out due to the good and tight fit, yours shows that your heatsink and die barely make contact at all. I'd cut like on the pictures from the thread.KY_BULLET likes this.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Depends on how you did it, if it's too much or at an angle it could have an impact. -
To be honest I don't think the sealant is an issue, dont see any reason why to remove the sealant, the shim is covering the whole gpu die and there is a good contact. I tried multiple times and I still get the same results.
In this pic I put a small amount and it still covered the whole surface. As you guys see the sealant isnt in the way.
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You may want to start to listen to the guy who has a P37x notebook with a GTX 1060 and can't breach 70c on max load. Your fit is absolutely bad.
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So you are suggesting to cut like in the picture you showed me?
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either that or try to figure out why your fit is so bad. You can look at the thermal paste and you can see that a lot of the paste is on the GPU die. Preferbly you would want it so look "spotted" and not smeared and there should only be a VERY VERY thin layer left, there should be barely any tim left on the GPU die. The thermal compound should be pushed out of the sides.
I tried to get my GPU as hot as possible, I overclocked it to the absolute max, spend 15 minutes doing Firestrike benchmarks over and over again to see how far I can push the clockspeeds of my 1060.
Currently my room temperature is 29.5c, I have no coolerpad and I tried my darnest to get this thing to 70c, couldn't do it. Given that you have a 2part heatsink and didnt do a solderjob on the shim, i'd say you should get around 74-77c at MAX with the same conditions as my P375SM. -
@Danishblunt Damn that's great temps, so tell me, would like to know how did you do it exactly? P375SM is pretty similar to the P370SM, right? perhaps better heatsink tho.
You only cut off that small part in the pic and went with thermal paste? No shims? -
The heatsink design are almost identical, you have a 2 part heatsink and mine is soldered to the fins making it 1 part, that's the only real difference between our heatsinks. I did solder a shim onto the heatsink ( i think 1.5mm), as I told you per private message. I also did a little cutting and resoldering of the heatpipes on my heatsink as well and lapping of the fan. Currently getting a new fan because the stock on is quite bad.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The single parts can have the VRM heatpipe shorter leaving extra fin height too.
Need help with the 1060 in my p370sm3!
Discussion in 'Sager and Clevo' started by Dendrit3, Jun 12, 2018.
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